Thanks so much for the reply.  That angry cloud was so bizarre, and your similar
experience so close to that, that robbery makes sense.  My reading confirms your
view as well, that with CCD the honey remains. Thanks again for taking the time.
wofranch

--- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Bainbridge" <jabbainb@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not an expert.  My son and I are hobbyists, as well (2
> hives), but I wonder if your hive was robbed.  We had this
> happen a couple of years ago and it looked like your
> description sounded.
>
> The honey super part doesn't sound bad...they'll often
> ignore the honey super if they're concentrating on brood.
>  Depending on how the hive is doing, we've often added
> another brood chamber before another honey super.
>
> In our robbery situation, there was also a cloud of
> obviously agitated bees around the hive and when we looked
> close we could see they were fighting.  We reduced the
> opening and put a wet sheet loosely over the hive (can't
> remember where my son got that advice, but it worked).
>
> I'm not sure that if a robbery goes really bad it could
> result in wiping out a hive like that or not.  I don't
> think I've heard of CCD causing the honey to be cleaned
> out....
>
> Julie
>
> On Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:07:13 -0000
>   "wofranch" <wofranch@...> wrote:
> > I'm a hobbyist, one hive, in the Sacramento Valley of
> >California.  They did well through the Spring; I added a
> >queen excluder and honey super in June.  They ignored it,
> >but I tried not to worry.  They continued to ignore it.
> > I suited up for a look inside in September but decided
> >against it; there was a dark cloud of bees mid-day around
> >the hive.  It was immediately obvious that the cloud was
> >not normal.  At that time, they are usually out working,
> >doing what bees do.  They seemed angry.  I left them
> >alone.
> > I was gone for a couple of weeks.  The hive seemed
> >disturbingly quiet upon my return.  I looked.  They're
> >gone.  A few bodies on the tray below; none outside.
> > Chambers are emptied; a few with larvae, but anything
> >that had honey is dry.  The wax in many of the frames is
> >destroyed and in tatters below.
> > I looked at every frame.  I noticed a few things which
> >might have been queen cells (three of them in the two
> >brood chambers).  But the honey super was till untouched.
> > Any thoughts on what happened?  How best could I begin
> >again?  I liked those little guys.  Thanks.
> > wofranch
> >
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Stephen Epstein

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 12:56 PM

Subject: [Beekeeping] screen door material

 

I bought a one-frame observation hive from Walter Kelley. It arrived yesterday and I put it together. There are some large areas that I need to cover over. Can I use plastic screens meant for screen doors or will the bees eat their way through the plastic?

Thanks,

Stephen Epstein

www.bigdipperphotos.com

Video: Siege Turns Gazans to Bee Venom Therapy

http://apitherapy.blogspot.com/2009/11/video-blockade-turns-gazans-to-bee_17.html

Welcome, Mark!

My son would dearly love an observation hive.  I would
suggest you do some research.  Something makes me think
that handling an observation hive can be trickier than and
regular one...seems my son told me that, but I can't
remember any of the details...

I've always thought it would be fascinating, though.

Julie

On Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:29:37 -0000
   "Mark" <markngale@...> wrote:
> Took my brother and sister-in-law to tour the Bee
>Company that they have been purchasing their bee
>equipment from for the past 20 years while they visited
>us in Lexington, Kentucky.
> The only thing about bees I wanted to know was how to
>keep from getting stung:)
> Long story short I was mesmerized by the tour and came
>home with an observation hive to setup and prepare for
>Spring 2010 bee arrival.
> Several modifications later we are all set to receive
>our bees in late April.
> My wife and I have joined the local Bee Keepers
>Association and while most everyone feels we will be
>making a transition to a full-sized hive for now we want
>to get acquainted with this fascinating hobby on a
>smaller scale.
> We were also pleasantly surprised to taste Fresh local
>honey from the Kentucky Bee Keepers Booth at the Kentucky
>Fair.
> While we live in a very tight subdivisoon we also enjoy
>raised bed vegeatable gardening, raising and showing
>rabbits and also have two Bantam hens for eggs, enjoyment
>and their ability to work like two mini-roto-tillers
>throughout the garden and yard from within their chicken
>tractor.
> Being raised and worked in Agriculture for most of my
>life living in suburbia does not deter my love of the
>earth, animals and protecting our environment.
> I look forward to learning from this list as well as
>meeting other folks with the same interests.
> Anyone else with observation hive experience or
>suggestions please share your thoughts.
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike S

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 6:42 AM

Subject: Re: [Beekeeping] Overwintering with inadequate stores

--- On Sat, 11/14/09, Dogwood Ridge <dogwood@...> wrote: Thanks for posting this.  It does make me think of two questions.  First, how long do these BeeFeed Cakes last? The cakes last until the bees consume them or until you remove the cakes from the inner lid, whichever comes first. Second, do you also have to supplement the bees protein intake when there is no pollen to be had? In the fall you check the pollen stores that the bees have.  If you think those stores are inadequate, then you feed pollen substitute.  This past year I was able to trap some pollen from a good hive.  I froze this (kills and critters in it plus eggs and larvae) and then mixed it with two different pollen substitutes I purchase from bee supply houses.  I used sugar syrup and equal amount of each of my two pollen substitutes and and equal amount of pollen (1/3 volume each) to make a thick dough which I then formed into patties.  I freeze the patties until I need them or use them immediately.  The patties are placed above the brood nest. A search of these archives will provide a lot of information to your questions.  ( http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe )  Thirdly (ok- I lied when I said 2 questions), how long can they go without coming out of the hive for water? It's not so much water they need as it is to get out to defecate.   Water they can get from condensate from inside the hive when it is too cold for them to fly.  A lot of problem are created when there is not enough air circulation to get the moisture from respiration out of the hive.  In answer to your original question, some people over winter hives where bees can't fly for months at a time (three or four months, or longer).  The bees have to be on good stores though. Kim at Dogwood Ridge Mike in LA

---

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.65/2503 - Release Date: 11/14/09 19:42:00

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike S

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 8:40 AM

Subject: Re: [Beekeeping] Overwintering with inadequate stores

--- On Sat, 11/14/09, Crzy-Pony <crzybishma@...> wrote: One Italian made just enough for themselves and the other I don't know if they will make it. If they do I will re-queen with the Russian Queens next spring. Marlene  The two posts below describe how to provide feed in the winter when the hives have inadequate stores.  Both posts are from long time, established commercial beekeepers.  Marlene, you don't have to let that colony of bees starve to death.  Place the candy on the inner cover beneath the outer cover.  Be sure to provide a space for air to flow out of the hive though the lids. Mike in LA Bobby Whirlycamp from Randolf, Nebraska has a large cooker he uses to make candy boards and he dumps whole drums of granulated sugar in the cooker and then  adds the remaining water however I have never seen the cooker working only had its use described to me.  You could probabbly call information and get his phone number and ask. Bobby removes his honey crop from 2000 hives in the fall and then extracts all winter. Only beek from our area I ever saw extract in dead of winter. One year a friend and I went to see Bobby at his operation in heavy coveralls. When we stepped inside (outside temp around 10F) Bobby was extracting honey. We did not stay long as the temp inside was around 90F. I own a 50 gallon 3 phase steam kettle which would make candy boards fast and all you would need is to place enough water in first to keep the sugar from burning. I would not think the consistency would need to be exact as long as in the middle between too soft and too hard. I am not far enough north in my opinion to need candy boards on *all* hives but some to prevent starving at times would be useful. We fed all hives needing feed this week  when temps were 70F. which removed any chance of hives starving now. We are trying to get Missouri hives cranked up for pollination and splitting and liquid sucrose does a better job than a candy board as incoming syrup acts to a degree like a small flow. bob harrison     Tue, 10 Feb 2009 =================================================================== I happen to have this in my inbox.  I've never mede either myself.  (Aaron Morris) Tue, 10 Feb 2009 Stovetop Candy Recipe  (Bee Feed) 1. Heat one pint (1/2 liter) of water to boiling in a large pot on stove.  2. Stir in as much sugar as can be dissolved.  This will be about 5 pounds (2 Kg).  More sugar is better.   3. Boil, uncovered, stirring almost constantly until the mixture reaches 234 degrees F.  It takes awhile. 4. Pour into molds made of cardboard or a container lined with waxed paper or butcher paper.   The candy will harden as it cools. Basically, any peanut brittle recipe can be adapted to make bee candy. DO NOT USE BUTTER IN THE RECIPE IF YOU USE A BRITTLE RECIPE THAT YOU ARE ADAPTING! Something a bit more Fudgy Like in the consistency!!  Having printed and studied all the bee candy references in the archives, we decided to attempt to take a fudgy or fondant-like candy. We did not wish to use corn syrup as we have some question about all corn syrup processes being good for bees. We did not wish to include cream of tartar for similar reasons. We began with the "12345" formula, using a small amount of vinegar (volatilized in process) to break down the sugar. We found the 1:5 water to sugar ratio too quick for the response of our thermometer in small batches, and backed off to 1:4, which doesn't change the end result, but slows the process. Our first pour, on a greased metal sheet, yielded a suitably friable cake but one too brittle for easy handling. Cooling the sheet with snow worsened the brittleness. Pouring onto wax paper on a towel gave a nice cake, but too . Cooling to 200F prior to pouring increased cake thickness. In conclusion, to obtain satisfactory cakes we:    1.  Use 1 part water to 4 parts granulated sugar.    2.  Add 1/4 tsp. per vinegar per pound of sugar.    3.  Bring to boil, stirring constantly until boiling commences.    4. Boil without stirring for 3 minutes, covered.    5. Insert thermometer, and boil uncovered until 234F is reached.    6. Remove from heat, and allow to cool to 200F.    7. Whip with whisk until whiteness occurs.    8. Pour (QUICKLY!) onto waxed paper having a towel beneath.    9. Allow to cool undisturbed.   10. Remove waxed paper, and store each cake in a plastic bag. The cakes thus made can be handled as plates, but are fudgy. They are totally white with whiter areas inside. Tiny crystals shine from a broken edge of a cake. The waxed paper is readily removed before storage. If the towel is fluffy the wax paper depresses limiting the width of the cake. We did try to make the candy without stirring which yielded a transparent gel that was extremely sticky. We did try to recycle our earlier failures, but they were crumbly until we added vinegar again, after which they behaved as new sugar.  The bees seem to like these cakes.

---

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.62/2499 - Release Date: 11/12/09 14:33:00

On the other hand, I keep hives and the *only* times I've been stung
have been when bees have managed to infiltrate my veil and get caught
in my hair (I have a lot of it and always forget to pin it up).

My experience has been that if you use your tools correctly and take
reasonable precautions in terms of dress, you needn't get stung. Stay
clear of the flight paths and work gently and steadily with them. I
often sit outside a few feet away from my hives to read or talk and no
one has ever bothered me there.

Your mileage may differ, as apparently does Bill's!


Jeannette
www.capecodbees.com

On Nov 14, 2009, at 4:58 PM, Bill wrote:

> Mark,
>
> If you're going to own a colony or hive of bees -- you're going to
> get stung. Not once. Not twice. Regularly. Prepare for it.
>
> If you'd rather avoid getting an occassional jolt from a bee, my
> advice is this: Don't get a hive. Bees are insects. They are
> stinging insects. This is what they do -- besides pollination and
> production of honey.
>
>
>
> --- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <markngale@...> wrote:
>>
>> Took my brother and sister-in-law to tour the Bee Company that they
>> have been purchasing their bee equipment from for the past 20 years
>> while they visited us in Lexington, Kentucky.
>> The only thing about bees I wanted to know was how to keep from
>> getting stung:)
>

Mark,

If you're going to own a colony or hive of bees -- you're going to get stung.
Not once. Not twice. Regularly. Prepare for it.

If you'd rather avoid getting an occassional jolt from a bee, my advice is this:
Don't get a hive. Bees are insects. They are stinging insects. This is what they
do -- besides pollination and production of honey.

I was stung as a small child while walking barefoot in a neighborhood park. I
managed to avoid another sting until purchasing my first colony last spring.

I've been stung about ten times through the course of the spring, summer and
fall months. It is what it is. My biggest problem wasn't the pain from the sting
nor the after-effects of the sting. It was the fear of getting stung. That is
the most difficult part of beekeeping to overcome.

Bill
Sacramento, CA

--- In Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <markngale@...> wrote:
>
> Took my brother and sister-in-law to tour the Bee Company that they have been
purchasing their bee equipment from for the past 20 years while they visited us
in Lexington, Kentucky.
> The only thing about bees I wanted to know was how to keep from getting
stung:)

----- Original Message -----

From: Karon Adams

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 1:26 PM

Subject: RE: [Beekeeping] Overwintering with inadequate stores

 

I don’t have one but have always wanted one for inside my house! I love observation hives! I may even think about asking the hubby for one for Christmas! I have already asked for a new set of hives to set up in the spring. I am mostly home bound for health reasons. An observation hive would be SO wonderful for me when my spirits are low, just to sit here, in my living room and watch my bees and my queen going about their business!

Blessings+

Karon

Yellow Ribbon Rosaries

Your New Family Heirloom

Providing Battlefield Rosaries to the Military

www.YellowRibbonRosaries.com

---

From: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Amsler
Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 9:48 AM
To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Beekeeping] Overwintering with inadequate stores

 

Any folks with observation hives out there?  Will be getting my first bees in the spring.  Purchased an observation hive and my brother who has been in bees for 20 years as well as a local beekeeper have helped me modify the hive.

It is three tiered with the brood chamber topped by a second super for food for the brood and then a queen excluder topped by a honey super. 

Most probably will end up with a full-sized hive but prefer to start slow and put what I have been reading into hands on experience.

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike S

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 9:40 AM

Subject: Re: [Beekeeping] Overwintering with inadequate stores

 

--- On Sat, 11/14/09, Crzy-Pony <crzybishma@yahoo.com> wrote: One Italian made just enough for themselves and the other I don't know if they will make it. If they do I will re-queen with the Russian Queens next spring. Marlene  The two posts below describe how to provide feed in the winter when the hives have inadequate stores.  Both posts are from long time, established commercial beekeepers.  Marlene, you don't have to let that colony of bees starve to death.  Place the candy on the inner cover beneath the outer cover.  Be sure to provide a space for air to flow out of the hive though the lids. Mike in LA Bobby Whirlycamp from Randolf, Nebraska has a large cooker he uses to make candy boards and he dumps whole drums of granulated sugar in the cooker and then  adds the remaining water however I have never seen the cooker working only had its use described to me.  You could probabbly call information and get his phone number and ask. Bobby removes his honey crop from 2000 hives in the fall and then extracts all winter. Only beek from our area I ever saw extract in dead of winter. One year a friend and I went to see Bobby at his operation in heavy coveralls. When we stepped inside (outside temp around 10F) Bobby was extracting honey. We did not stay long as the temp inside was around 90F. I own a 50 gallon 3 phase steam kettle which would make candy boards fast and all you would need is to place enough water in first to keep the sugar from burning. I would not think the consistency would need to be exact as long as in the middle between too soft and too hard. I am not far enough north in my opinion to need candy boards on *all* hives but some to prevent starving at times would be useful. We fed all hives needing feed this week  when temps were 70F. which removed any chance of hives starving now. We are trying to get Missouri hives cranked up for pollination and splitting and liquid sucrose does a better job than a candy board as incoming syrup acts to a degree like a small flow. bob harrison     Tue, 10 Feb 2009 =================================================================== I happen to have this in my inbox.  I've never mede either myself.  (Aaron Morris) Tue, 10 Feb 2009 Stovetop Candy Recipe  (Bee Feed) 1. Heat one pint (1/2 liter) of water to boiling in a large pot on stove.  2. Stir in as much sugar as can be dissolved.  This will be about 5 pounds (2 Kg).  More sugar is better.   3. Boil, uncovered, stirring almost constantly until the mixture reaches 234 degrees F.  It takes awhile. 4. Pour into molds made of cardboard or a container lined with waxed paper or butcher paper.   The candy will harden as it cools. Basically, any peanut brittle recipe can be adapted to make bee candy. DO NOT USE BUTTER IN THE RECIPE IF YOU USE A BRITTLE RECIPE THAT YOU ARE ADAPTING! Something a bit more Fudgy Like in the consistency!!  Having printed and studied all the bee candy references in the archives, we decided to attempt to take a fudgy or fondant-like candy. We did not wish to use corn syrup as we have some question about all corn syrup processes being good for bees. We did not wish to include cream of tartar for similar reasons. We began with the "12345" formula, using a small amount of vinegar (volatilized in process) to break down the sugar. We found the 1:5 water to sugar ratio too quick for the response of our thermometer in small batches, and backed off to 1:4, which doesn't change the end result, but slows the process. Our first pour, on a greased metal sheet, yielded a suitably friable cake but one too brittle for easy handling. Cooling the sheet with snow worsened the brittleness. Pouring onto wax paper on a towel gave a nice cake, but too . Cooling to 200F prior to pouring increased cake thickness. In conclusion, to obtain satisfactory cakes we:    1.  Use 1 part water to 4 parts granulated sugar.    2.  Add 1/4 tsp. per vinegar per pound of sugar.    3.  Bring to boil, stirring constantly until boiling commences.    4. Boil without stirring for 3 minutes, covered.    5. Insert thermometer, and boil uncovered until 234F is reached.    6. Remove from heat, and allow to cool to 200F.    7. Whip with whisk until whiteness occurs.    8. Pour (QUICKLY!) onto waxed paper having a towel beneath.    9. Allow to cool undisturbed.   10. Remove waxed paper, and store each cake in a plastic bag. The cakes thus made can be handled as plates, but are fudgy. They are totally white with whiter areas inside. Tiny crystals shine from a broken edge of a cake. The waxed paper is readily removed before storage. If the towel is fluffy the wax paper depresses limiting the width of the cake. We did try to make the candy without stirring which yielded a transparent gel that was extremely sticky. We did try to recycle our earlier failures, but they were crumbly until we added vinegar again, after which they behaved as new sugar.  The bees seem to like these cakes.

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike S

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 9:40 AM

Subject: Re: [Beekeeping] Overwintering with inadequate stores

 

--- On Sat, 11/14/09, Crzy-Pony <crzybishma@yahoo.com> wrote: One Italian made just enough for themselves and the other I don't know if they will make it. If they do I will re-queen with the Russian Queens next spring. Marlene  The two posts below describe how to provide feed in the winter when the hives have inadequate stores.  Both posts are from long time, established commercial beekeepers.  Marlene, you don't have to let that colony of bees starve to death.  Place the candy on the inner cover beneath the outer cover.  Be sure to provide a space for air to flow out of the hive though the lids. Mike in LA Bobby Whirlycamp from Randolf, Nebraska has a large cooker he uses to make candy boards and he dumps whole drums of granulated sugar in the cooker and then  adds the remaining water however I have never seen the cooker working only had its use described to me.  You could probabbly call information and get his phone number and ask. Bobby removes his honey crop from 2000 hives in the fall and then extracts all winter. Only beek from our area I ever saw extract in dead of winter. One year a friend and I went to see Bobby at his operation in heavy coveralls. When we stepped inside (outside temp around 10F) Bobby was extracting honey. We did not stay long as the temp inside was around 90F. I own a 50 gallon 3 phase steam kettle which would make candy boards fast and all you would need is to place enough water in first to keep the sugar from burning. I would not think the consistency would need to be exact as long as in the middle between too soft and too hard. I am not far enough north in my opinion to need candy boards on *all* hives but some to prevent starving at times would be useful. We fed all hives needing feed this week  when temps were 70F. which removed any chance of hives starving now. We are trying to get Missouri hives cranked up for pollination and splitting and liquid sucrose does a better job than a candy board as incoming syrup acts to a degree like a small flow. bob harrison     Tue, 10 Feb 2009 =================================================================== I happen to have this in my inbox.  I've never mede either myself.  (Aaron Morris) Tue, 10 Feb 2009 Stovetop Candy Recipe  (Bee Feed) 1. Heat one pint (1/2 liter) of water to boiling in a large pot on stove.  2. Stir in as much sugar as can be dissolved.  This will be about 5 pounds (2 Kg).  More sugar is better.   3. Boil, uncovered, stirring almost constantly until the mixture reaches 234 degrees F.  It takes awhile. 4. Pour into molds made of cardboard or a container lined with waxed paper or butcher paper.   The candy will harden as it cools. Basically, any peanut brittle recipe can be adapted to make bee candy. DO NOT USE BUTTER IN THE RECIPE IF YOU USE A BRITTLE RECIPE THAT YOU ARE ADAPTING! Something a bit more Fudgy Like in the consistency!!  Having printed and studied all the bee candy references in the archives, we decided to attempt to take a fudgy or fondant-like candy. We did not wish to use corn syrup as we have some question about all corn syrup processes being good for bees. We did not wish to include cream of tartar for similar reasons. We began with the "12345" formula, using a small amount of vinegar (volatilized in process) to break down the sugar. We found the 1:5 water to sugar ratio too quick for the response of our thermometer in small batches, and backed off to 1:4, which doesn't change the end result, but slows the process. Our first pour, on a greased metal sheet, yielded a suitably friable cake but one too brittle for easy handling. Cooling the sheet with snow worsened the brittleness. Pouring onto wax paper on a towel gave a nice cake, but too . Cooling to 200F prior to pouring increased cake thickness. In conclusion, to obtain satisfactory cakes we:    1.  Use 1 part water to 4 parts granulated sugar.    2.  Add 1/4 tsp. per vinegar per pound of sugar.    3.  Bring to boil, stirring constantly until boiling commences.    4. Boil without stirring for 3 minutes, covered.    5. Insert thermometer, and boil uncovered until 234F is reached.    6. Remove from heat, and allow to cool to 200F.    7. Whip with whisk until whiteness occurs.    8. Pour (QUICKLY!) onto waxed paper having a towel beneath.    9. Allow to cool undisturbed.   10. Remove waxed paper, and store each cake in a plastic bag. The cakes thus made can be handled as plates, but are fudgy. They are totally white with whiter areas inside. Tiny crystals shine from a broken edge of a cake. The waxed paper is readily removed before storage. If the towel is fluffy the wax paper depresses limiting the width of the cake. We did try to make the candy without stirring which yielded a transparent gel that was extremely sticky. We did try to recycle our earlier failures, but they were crumbly until we added vinegar again, after which they behaved as new sugar.  The bees seem to like these cakes.

----- Original Message -----

From: Emily Cain

To: Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 10:05 AM

Subject: [Beekeeping] New to group

 

On Nov 14, 2009, at 6:53 AM, Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> While we live in a very tight subdivisoon

Have you checked what laws apply to beekeeping in your area? Here in
Southern Ontario we have a Provincial Act, and in addition some
municipalities have applicable by-laws. Always good to know what
applies.

--Emily
Poodle History Project (annotated bibliography)
http://www.poodlehistory.org

On Nov 14, 2009, at 6:53 AM, Beekeeping@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> While we live in a very tight subdivisoon

Have you checked what laws apply to beekeeping in your area?   Here in
Southern Ontario we have a Provincial Act, and in addition some
municipalities have applicable by-laws.   Always good to know what
applies.

--Emily
Poodle History Project (annotated bibliography)
http://www.poodlehistory.org

Took my brother and sister-in-law to tour the Bee Company that they have been
purchasing their bee equipment from for the past 20 years while they visited us
in Lexington, Kentucky.
The only thing about bees I wanted to know was how to keep from getting stung:)
Long story short I was mesmerized by the tour and came home with an observation
hive to setup and prepare for Spring 2010 bee arrival.
Several modifications later we are all set to receive our bees in late April.
My wife and I have joined the local Bee Keepers Association and while most
everyone feels we will be making a transition to a full-sized hive for now we
want to get acquainted with this fascinating hobby on a smaller scale.
We were also pleasantly surprised to taste Fresh local honey from the Kentucky
Bee Keepers Booth at the Kentucky Fair.
While we live in a very tight subdivisoon we also enjoy raised bed vegeatable
gardening, raising and showing rabbits and also have two Bantam hens for eggs,
enjoyment and their ability to work like two mini-roto-tillers throughout the
garden and yard from within their chicken tractor.
Being raised and worked in Agriculture for most of my life living in suburbia
does not deter my love of the earth, animals and protecting our environment.
I look forward to learning from this list as well as meeting other folks with
the same interests.
Anyone else with observation hive experience or suggestions please share your
thoughts.

here is the link. If it doesnt work look it up on google.
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu7J.9_pKRZYASt9XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzdmoxNHRqBHNlYwNz\
cgRwb3MDNwRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA0Y4NjFfMTA3/SIG=12i9s7uoa/EXP=1258047742/**http%3a/\
/video.google.com/videoplay%3fdocid=-6129663215037522414

How much do I charge for a 6oz bottle of raw strained/filtered honey? I am
clueless about pricing. I live in north Alabama any help would be appreciated.

Hello,

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a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Beekeeping
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