That's how we do it here. Except if the rabbit has a lot of irritation,
we will mix it with a tiny bit of neosporin ointment, and/or vitamin E
oil. We use vitamin E oil for any hint of ear mites, then add the
others if there is more than a suspicion. Clears it right up, every day
you will see great improvements.
Laura in PA
ClaudetteH wrote:
> Nancy, really???? I never heard of that before.....I have read where people
use the injection syrum and feed it orally but it may upset the stomach. Then I
heard using the injectionable for injection but it stings at the injection
site.....so I tried this method and it seems to be working....just need to do a
second dose???
>
> That is all you do??? Rub it on the inside of the ear??? Hhhmmm....May have to
try that next time....I wonder if I can buy it at a local feed store??
>
> Thanks for posting....I appreciate it....does seem easy!!
>
> Claudette
>
>
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Nancy, really???? I never heard of that before.....I have read where people use
the injection syrum and feed it orally but it may upset the stomach. Then I
heard using the injectionable for injection but it stings at the injection
site.....so I tried this method and it seems to be working....just need to do a
second dose???
That is all you do??? Rub it on the inside of the ear??? Hhhmmm....May have to
try that next time....I wonder if I can buy it at a local feed store??
Thanks for posting....I appreciate it....does seem easy!!
Claudette
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, "nancybarnett_98"
<nancybarnett_98@...> wrote:
>
> I always use the injectable version, it is much faster since it is a
systematic. I put a drop in each ear and rub it in and that's all that is
needed.
>
> You can get a syringe full from you vet very reasonable and you won't have to
buy the whole bottle. Use as needed.
>
> Nancy in the Missouri Ozarks
>
I always use the injectable version, it is much faster since it is a systematic.
I put a drop in each ear and rub it in and that's all that is needed.
You can get a syringe full from you vet very reasonable and you won't have to
buy the whole bottle. Use as needed.
Nancy in the Missouri Ozarks
It's been a week since I treated buns with Ivermectin paste....It's hart to tell
if it's clearing up yet but one of the buns ears seem to be clearing up a
bit....and when I part the fur and look at the skin, it appears to look healthy.
I have a white male that I clipped down tonight....his fur had started to mat
and was heavy with the dander stuff in the rump area....I could't believe how
much poweder residue came off him when I brushed him out after clipping him.
Treatment number 2 this Friday....so far so good....
To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com From: nomdeplume@... Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:14:02 +0000 Subject: [Englishangoraonly] new smaller English angora machine embroidery design
That's true, we go by the face color, the wool is usually lighter. I occasionally run into buns with the same color fiber as face, but it is rare. I've had blues do that.
Thanks for all the tips.....I will let you know how it comes out...My black bun
has just started to molt and funny how black acutally turns out gray....Can't
wait to see his spun.......
Claudette
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, Judy Mackenroth <angora16023@...>
wrote:
>
> I do wash it just like wool after it is spun and plied. When spinning angora,
take all the tension off the wheel, until the flyer stops spinning. Then slowly
add tension until the flyer is again rotating. This will be less tension than
you use for wool, and will help keep the wheel from trying to pull the yarn out
of your hands until you get enough twist in it.
>
> Angora is best spun with plenty of twist to keep it strong. And then best
plied to keep the yarn even and balanced. You don't need to slam it on the
table. The idea of that is to make the yarn look fluffy for sale.
>
> When you're spinning your own fiber, you don't want the yarn to fuzz out too
much at first. It'll fuzz plenty when you knit/weave/crochet it. Let it fuzz
AFTER you've knit it, it makes life a lot easier!
>
> With a lot of twist in the fiber, it won't look real fuzzy at first. Be
assured, it will fuzz out. The more you handle it, the fuzzier it gets.
Commercial angora is so loosely spun (so it looks fuzzy for the buyer), that if
you sneeze while knitting it'll fall apart! Handspun angora can be quite
sturdy. Doing spinning demos, I often break off a piece of what I'm spinning,
let it turn back on itself into a plied yarn, and then let the people try to
break it. It usually won't!
>
> It's much easier to work with before it is too fuzzy, so skip that beating on
the table step, and just plain use it. It will start to fuzz as you are working
with it, and by the time you're done and you've washed the finished garment,
it'll be lovely! I'm always amazed how much washing the finished item and
laying it out to dry just makes the item look so much better!
>
> Judy
>
I do wash it just like wool after it is spun and plied. When spinning angora, take all the tension off the wheel, until the flyer stops spinning. Then slowly add tension until the flyer is again rotating. This will be less tension than you use for wool, and will help keep the wheel from trying to pull the yarn out of your hands until you get enough twist in it.
Angora is best spun with plenty of twist to keep it strong. And then best plied to keep the yarn even and balanced. You don't need to slam it on the table. The idea of that is to make the yarn look fluffy for sale.
When you're spinning your own fiber, you don't want the yarn to fuzz out too much at first. It'll fuzz plenty when you knit/weave/crochet it. Let it fuzz AFTER you've knit it, it makes life a lot easier!
With a lot of twist in the fiber, it won't look real fuzzy at first. Be assured, it will fuzz out. The more you handle it, the fuzzier it gets. Commercial angora is so loosely spun (so it looks fuzzy for the buyer), that if you sneeze while knitting it'll fall apart! Handspun angora can be quite sturdy. Doing spinning demos, I often break off a piece of what I'm spinning, let it turn back on itself into a plied yarn, and then let the people try to break it. It usually won't!
It's much easier to work with before it is too fuzzy, so skip that beating on the table step, and just plain use it. It will start to fuzz as you are working with it, and by the time you're done and you've washed the finished garment, it'll be lovely! I'm always amazed how much washing the finished item and laying it out to dry just makes the item look so much better!
I know with wool, I wash to set the twist and let it hang dry....do you do the
same with angora? I heard something about once it's spun, you wet it and slam
it against a hard surface...obviously this my first time spinning the
angora.....
I cannot wait to see how it spins!!!
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, Judy Mackenroth <angora16023@...>
wrote:
>
> You don't wash angora before spinning it, just spin it right out of the bag,
especially with plucked fiber. It's light and fluffy and the buns groom
themselves, so it's already clean.
>
> Usually, it's not through all of the fiber, usually worst around the rump
area. You could snip off the dander from the offending locks, many will not
need anything. Carding just seems to spread it all through the fiber, not
nice.
>
> Judy
>
You don't wash angora before spinning it, just spin it right out of the bag, especially with plucked fiber. It's light and fluffy and the buns groom themselves, so it's already clean.
Usually, it's not through all of the fiber, usually worst around the rump area. You could snip off the dander from the offending locks, many will not need anything. Carding just seems to spread it all through the fiber, not nice.
Judy, two of my rabbits molted and I harvested their wool......I would hate to
have to throw it away...I was planningon spinning some this weekend...this is my
first hand plucked harvest and I cannot wait to see how it spins out.....
Once the fiber is washed though, shouldn't that take care of some of the flaky
stuff in the wool???
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, Judy Mackenroth <angora16023@...>
wrote:
>
> I read one angora book where the author tested this very question. She took
samples from a number of rabbits that 'just' had dander. And every one tested
positive for mites. It was her opinion that if you could see dander at the base
of the fiber--treat for mites.
>
> I purchased several rabbits that had dander that no treatment I knew of seemed
to fix. None of the usual remedies in my arsenal worked. And you hate to use
or sell fiber with flakes attached. And the fiber is more prone to matting.
>
> I finally tried the ivermectin treatment suggested here, and in no time the
flakes were permanently gone, gone, gone!
>
> So, my suggestion, is treat with ivomec in any case. You don't want to see
flakes. There will always be a natural refurbishing of the skin, but you won't
see it as the kind of flakes you are describing.
>
> Treat and see if it makes a difference.
>
> Judy
>
I just used Jo Ann's technique with the popsicle stick....It worked
beautifully!!!!!!!!! Thank you thank you thank you....
Judy, I think I will try the alcohol.....I will retreat again in 10 days......I
have 10 buns so 10 sets of tools would be just a tad much for my budget right
now. But in the future, may consider it...
I love the paste method. As to grooming tools, they can indeed spread it. If you don't have many rabbits, I use separate tools. If you have a number of them, you can disinfect inbetween (one place I know uses rubbing alcohol.)
Treating everyone and getting rid of the mites is the simplest solution!
I read one angora book where the author tested this very question. She took samples from a number of rabbits that 'just' had dander. And every one tested positive for mites. It was her opinion that if you could see dander at the base of the fiber--treat for mites.
I purchased several rabbits that had dander that no treatment I knew of seemed to fix. None of the usual remedies in my arsenal worked. And you hate to use or sell fiber with flakes attached. And the fiber is more prone to matting.
I finally tried the ivermectin treatment suggested here, and in no time the flakes were permanently gone, gone, gone!
So, my suggestion, is treat with ivomec in any case. You don't want to see flakes. There will always be a natural refurbishing of the skin, but you won't see it as the kind of flakes you are describing.
I use the paste. I take a pea size and squeeze it out on a piece of straw or a pop sickle stick and just rub it across the mouth. That is the best way not to overdose with it.
To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com From: hanscomc@... Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:14:48 +0000 Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Re: Wool mite vs. dander
Thanks Jo Ann, that is what I feared so I went to the feed store and bought Ivemectin but it is paste form....any ideas how to adminster this to them...I was reading previous posts about using the injectionable orally.....but of course, I read all those posts AFTER I bought the paste.
Grooming tools??? Disinfect in Listerine??
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, jo ann schoolcraft <bunnyhugger_2@...> wrote: > > > What you are describing is wool mites. The dander is just a white powder that blows out of the wool when you turn a blower on them. You do not see the dander. You need to treat for wool mites. > > Jo Ann > www.josawesomeangoras.com > www.freewebs.com/josgems > > > > > > > > > To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com > From: hanscomc@... > Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:45:36 +0000 > Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Wool mite vs. dander > > > > > > Can someone tell me the difference between the dander that occurs naturally in an EA and wool mites...My rabbits have flakes at the base of their wool. I do not blow their coats yet but groom them regularly. The flakes look just like that...flakes....Their are no red spots or missing fur......The only other thing that is weird is that on the back side of their ears, it almost looks like a babies, "cradle cap". You can actually pick the dried substance off their ears....The rabbits itch occasionally but nothing that is out of the norm. > > I have heard so many people say that when you blow their coats, there is tons of white dander.....also, I do not see anything moving..... > > Thoughts???? > > > > > > __________________________________________________________ > Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more. > http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009v2 >
Thanks Jo Ann, that is what I feared so I went to the feed store and bought
Ivemectin but it is paste form....any ideas how to adminster this to them...I
was reading previous posts about using the injectionable orally.....but of
course, I read all those posts AFTER I bought the paste.
Grooming tools??? Disinfect in Listerine??
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, jo ann schoolcraft <bunnyhugger_2@...>
wrote:
>
>
> What you are describing is wool mites. The dander is just a white powder that
blows out of the wool when you turn a blower on them. You do not see the dander.
You need to treat for wool mites.
>
> Jo Ann
> www.josawesomeangoras.com
> www.freewebs.com/josgems
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
> From: hanscomc@...
> Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:45:36 +0000
> Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Wool mite vs. dander
>
>
>
>
>
> Can someone tell me the difference between the dander that occurs naturally in
an EA and wool mites...My rabbits have flakes at the base of their wool. I do
not blow their coats yet but groom them regularly. The flakes look just like
that...flakes....Their are no red spots or missing fur......The only other thing
that is weird is that on the back side of their ears, it almost looks like a
babies, "cradle cap". You can actually pick the dried substance off their
ears....The rabbits itch occasionally but nothing that is out of the norm.
>
> I have heard so many people say that when you blow their coats, there is tons
of white dander.....also, I do not see anything moving.....
>
> Thoughts????
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
>
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL\
:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009v2
>
What you are describing is wool mites. The dander is just a white powder that blows out of the wool when you turn a blower on them. You do not see the dander. You need to treat for wool mites.
To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com From: hanscomc@... Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:45:36 +0000 Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Wool mite vs. dander
Can someone tell me the difference between the dander that occurs naturally in an EA and wool mites...My rabbits have flakes at the base of their wool. I do not blow their coats yet but groom them regularly. The flakes look just like that...flakes....Their are no red spots or missing fur......The only other thing that is weird is that on the back side of their ears, it almost looks like a babies, "cradle cap". You can actually pick the dried substance off their ears....The rabbits itch occasionally but nothing that is out of the norm.
I have heard so many people say that when you blow their coats, there is tons of white dander.....also, I do not see anything moving.....
Can someone tell me the difference between the dander that occurs naturally in
an EA and wool mites...My rabbits have flakes at the base of their wool. I do
not blow their coats yet but groom them regularly. The flakes look just like
that...flakes....Their are no red spots or missing fur......The only other thing
that is weird is that on the back side of their ears, it almost looks like a
babies, "cradle cap". You can actually pick the dried substance off their
ears....The rabbits itch occasionally but nothing that is out of the norm.
I have heard so many people say that when you blow their coats, there is tons of
white dander.....also, I do not see anything moving.....
Thoughts????
For Sale we have several nice english angora juniors. Most have been on the
table and received nice remarks. Just slimming the keep pack down a little.
Junior Does:
Blue (3 months) out of a Lynx & Black. Both parents GC & Reg. Nice little
lady. Was one bunny away from staying (we only kept 1 doe of the 11 watchers).
Strong color & woo. Nice body. Sweet personality.
Opal (3 months). Sister of above. Another nice little lady. Great color &
wool. Nice body. Has done well on the table.
Junior Bucks: (none of these bucks are brothers to the above ladies)
Blue (3 1/2 months) out of a Blue Tort & Black (the mother of many BIS, BISS,
BOB winners). This buck would make a great wooler. He has a nice body. His
coat is just lovely. Strong blue rings. A real sweet kid.
Tort (3 1/2 months) out of a Chocolate & Choc Tort. This buck is just sweet.
Has a lovely coat color & wool. Promising body. Enjoys playing with his toys.
Chocolate (4 months) out of 2 blacks. This buck has the sweetest personality.
He was hand raised and loves everybody. Has done well on the show table.
Amazing chocolate color throughout his wool. Lots of rings already.
REW (4 months) out of Blue and Fawn (Miss Mari). This buck is 1/2
Silvertone/Hunneshagen's lines. His mother is a beautiful doe with a strong
coat. Father is a beautiful blue with a wonderful body & coat. Between the two
parents they have over 17 legs. He would make a fantastic wooler for anybody.
He is currently cut down.
Please contact me for more information or pictures.
thedustibunni@...
We will be at Lancaster & Zanesville shows in Ohio.
WILL HAVE ABOUT 10 SHOWABLE ANGORAS MOSTLY THIS YEARS FOR SALE AT TAYLORSVILLE, NC SHOW ON 11-14. WILL BE IN TOWN ON FRIDAY. IF YOU WANT TO REACH ME THEN, CELL # 304-415-0459. JO ANN Jo Ann www.josawesomeangoras.com www.freewebs.com/josgems
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up now.
Hi
I have updated my sales page:
Reg. GCH. Angel's Mickey- 3 legs( out of Reg GCH.
Angel's/Wooleyboogers Encore- 3 legs and Reg. Angel's
Heaven)
Proven breeder of winners on the show table. Produes
better them him self a great asset to a breeding program.
$250.00
Rew junior doe will be a senior in Dec. ( out of Reg. GCH.
M&K's BluesClues-4 legs and Reg. GCH. M&K's Snowbelle- 4
legs)
very nice type has won BOV - $100.00
blue tort junior buck ( littermate to above doe)
nice compact buck -$100.00
They can be viewed at http://www.mkangoras.com
Kristi
Animals seem to get hormonal even when their neutered. Glad to here he seems
to be acting better. Have you always had a problem grooming him? Sue
-----Original Message-----
From: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of imler_sharon
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 10:13 PM
To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Re: Help with a troubled bunny
He has balls in his litter and there is no wool in with them. Later in the
evening he played with my doe...they are both neutered. Maybe he is just
mad at me for the grooming yesterday. I hear they can hold a grudge. ha.
Anyway, thanks for the input, Sue.
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, "Sue Rodriguez" <dsrod@...> wrote:
>
> Yes if he has pellets more then balls he's wool block or if the balls are
>
>
>
>
> From: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Sharon Imler
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:14 PM
> To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Help with a troubled bunny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I sent an email and not sure it went so I will ask again. If a bunny has
> wool block will there still be poop pellets in the litter box. He is
acting
> very different...not wanting to come out of his cage, jumped at me when I
> reached in to pet him. He does have a full coat and I groomed him
yesterday
> which didn't make him very happy. Any ideas. Thanks, Sharon in Va
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
He has balls in his litter and there is no wool in with them. Later in the
evening he played with my doe...they are both neutered. Maybe he is just mad at
me for the grooming yesterday. I hear they can hold a grudge. ha. Anyway,
thanks for the input, Sue.
--- In Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com, "Sue Rodriguez" <dsrod@...> wrote:
>
> Yes if he has pellets more then balls he's wool block or if the balls are
>
>
>
>
> From: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Sharon Imler
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:14 PM
> To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Help with a troubled bunny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I sent an email and not sure it went so I will ask again. If a bunny has
> wool block will there still be poop pellets in the litter box. He is acting
> very different...not wanting to come out of his cage, jumped at me when I
> reached in to pet him. He does have a full coat and I groomed him yesterday
> which didn't make him very happy. Any ideas. Thanks, Sharon in Va
>
Yes if he has pellets more then
balls he’s wool block or if the balls are strung together with wool.
Usually they won’t eat as much or quit eating because their stomach is
full of wool. In your case it sounds more like he’s hormonal or just out
of sort for some other reason. Hope others can give you better ideas. Sue
From:
Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Imler Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:14 PM To: Englishangoraonly@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Englishangoraonly] Help with a troubled bunny
I sent an email and not sure it went so I will ask
again. If a bunny has wool block will there still be poop pellets in the
litter box. He is acting very different...not wanting to come out of his
cage, jumped at me when I reached in to pet him. He does have a full coat
and I groomed him yesterday which didn't make him very happy. Any
ideas. Thanks, Sharon in Va
I sent an email and not sure it went so I will ask again. If a bunny has wool block will there still be poop pellets in the litter box. He is acting very different...not wanting to come out of his cage, jumped at me when I reached in to pet him. He does have a full coat and I groomed him yesterday which didn't make him very happy. Any ideas. Thanks, Sharon in Va
My friend has about 10 or more pedigreed english angora rabbits for sale. Jrs and srs, bucks and does. A couple does might be bred to a black buck(3 GC legs). A pointed doe and buck, a reg. pearl doe, rew doe, bew buck and doe and choc buck. Does are about 3 1/2 yrs, 2 yrs and the rest are all this years buns. One pointed buck is about 2 and the rest are this years.
Prices are $35 & 40 except bew are $50.
Will be at Taylorsville, NC on Nov. 14th and Lancaster, Ohio on Nov. 22. We are located in WV.