HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
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Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: Curry combs and other assorted sundries
3) Recommended products and services: Blu-Kote
4) Rally and rating tips: Disposable wipes
5) Questions and answers: Bits to boots and back again
6) Fun and educational websites: Too many to shake a stick at
7) Featured rule

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Comments from readers
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Dear Stormy,

Once again, another super newsletter.

Most interesting article about the possible connection between wind-sucking
and ulcers....

And just LOVED Uncle Moose's Trailer Safety Quiz. I can see preparing a few
tests of this type to review a dismounted lesson you've just taught. I
mean, there's Uncle Moose, and Uncle Yuri and Aunt Hermione and great aunt
Hepsibah......... why I can see having a test for every single member of the
whole nutty family. It will be great.

On your inevitable rally questions....

"Although we donąt have 2 sizes of girth. Section 19 says that different
sizes MAY be required. What does MAY mean?"

Loved your answer..... although I would like to add one other explanation
for what MAY means, referring to the case where there's a pony who perhaps
does more eating than he needs to for his size and finds himself wearing the
exact same size girth as the bigger equine members of his team. They were
all horses mind you, and much larger than he was, but the saddle he wore was
small and had short billets, and the girth was long, equal in length to the
others. I know, I met him once at a rally and I measured because I just
couldn't believe it when the kids assured me that they all wore the same
size girth. In this case, they did.

And thanks for the wonderful explanations of the whole bandaging issue, and
the difference between using pre-made vs. sheet cotton. That one comes up
all the time, as well as the issue of the feed tub being required whether
you use it or not. As for using a muck bucket with handles cut off, you
gave a great answer.....we had a kid who fed that way at D camp one year,
and every morning the muck bucket would be two stalls away from its original
location. Horses being what they are, between boredom, playfulness and
willingness to share, they had fun passing it around from stall to stall
during the night.

And the whole hay/scale issue is another one that comes up constantly. It
always takes so long for word to get filtered out into the ranks when they
change a rule like that, and having an outdated HM handbook sure doesn't
help us any.

That was a great response to the concerned AHMJ about the positive point
issue. There's just one thing I would like to add to what you said. We
always encourage all of the AHMJs to be sure to write down any good things
you see happening on the daily sheets for a team. They may not get positive
points for those things, but when a chief is making decisions about whether
to take off one or two points for an offense, who knows, a lot of nice
remarks about how well prepared their equipment was, or how beautiful their
tack room is being kept, or how clean their grooming kits are, might give
the judge a better idea of how well prepared they are, or how well they're
working together as a team, and maybe they will only get one point off
instead of two because they're showing that they're consistently doing good
work. And besides, it's important to let them know that we've noticed how
much effort they have put into preparation for the rally. That's one way to
help keep it positive.

Keep up the good work, I love your newsletters. I learn so much from each
one.......and I know I'll be using stuff from all of them in future
dismounted lessons. Thanks for taking the time to do it.....

Marilynn Terstegge, mother of Mid Cal's HMO and illustrious editor of the
Horsin' Around! Calendar

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Hey Stormy,
 
Love your newsletter.  Your answers are well thought out, and I particularly
loved the one about why we rally.
 
One little thing, though, on this latest newsletter.  In it you state that
the 2002 HM rules require a scale on the required equipment list.  While it
is true that scale is listed in parenthesis with scoop or pre-packaged, I
don't feel that it is correct to state that the 2002 HM Rules requires a
scale.  Here is my reasoning...  It is generally a given that if you are not
feeding grain or salt in a heavy duty feed tub, then it is not required for
you.  If you are feeding loose hay, and you know how much hay your horse
needs, then you don't need a scale.  See excerpt below from HM Rules, page
30, section 13, paragraph D.
 
"Hay rations need to be formulated by weight. The feed chart must indicate
what amount, by weight, of hay is fed each morning and evening. Prepackaging
of hay is not encouraged or recommended but is allowed. Do not use plastic
of any type (for packaging) as the hay may mold. A scale for accurate
measurement is recommended, but not required. The feed chart must indicate
the ration of hay and whether it is free choice or not. "
 
Joe White showed me this one in May of last year, when he chiefed for our
Show Jumping Rally.  It was a revelation to me!
 
Keep up the great work, and I'm looking forward to working with you at
Champs!
 
:) Mouse Terstegge, Mid Cal HMO

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Stormy,

Great newsletter as always. It's nice to see other areas submitting
questions. We should address the curry comb issue! We now have the proper
one in our kits.

April Smith, DC, Northern Mines PC

April, the featured article this month is on just that! Read on...

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Curry combs and other assorted sundries
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by Stormy May

In every rally grooming kit is the required item called a "currycomb". Most
of us think of the currycomb as an oval-shaped rubber grooming implement
with about 3 oval rows of teeth and a hand strap on the back. The USPC D
manual on page 169 has this to say about them:

"Currycomb (rubber or plastic): for loosening caked mud and dirt and rubbing
the pony's skin. It should be flexible, not too hard and sharp. (Metal
currycombs should only be used for cleaning the body brush. They are too
sharp to use on a pony's skin.)"

(The metal currycomb that the manual refers to is drawn on page 171 and is
often also used as a shedding blade.)

Traditionally, there were two uses for the currycomb, first, to loosen caked
mud and dirt, bringing up the dander and oils from the horse's skin. The
second use is to clean the body brush (remember a traditional body brush is
oval shaped and has short, relatively soft bristles and a hand strap) to
remove the hairs and dirt before you brush them back on the pony. With the
currycomb's rows of teeth, it is able to grab the hairs. Then, with a good
knock on a post or your boot bottom, the hairs fall out of the currycomb,
ready for the next swipe.

About 15 years ago the lines started getting blurred when something called
the Grooma Groomer came out. This tool fulfilled the first job of a
currycomb, removing caked mud and dirt and bringing dander and oils to the
surface, and the horses seemed to like it even better than the traditional
currycombs. However, it didn't work very well at cleaning out the body
brush because of its large cone-shaped teeth that were no longer set in rows
that would grab the hairs. Another imposter hit the market being called a
"plastic currycomb" but this was even worse, it has probably about 100 rigid
plastic teeth and often also will have a hose attachment which makes it
great for bathing horses down to the skin, but is quite rough on the horse's
coat when used dry, and certainly isn't good for cleaning the body brush.
The hairs get stuck in the plastic curry rather than knocking free as with a
Grooma or traditional currycomb. Other products we see today trying to full
the currycomb's task include jelly scrubbers, rubber grooming mitts, various
massage tools, and a "thick rubber curry" which has rubber teeth similar to
the plastic curry with a hose attachment and is great for working shampoo
into the coat, but not for getting off mud, bringing out dander and
certainly not for cleaning the body brush.

Now it's time to add one more ingredient into this stew. It was decided
that for a body brush in the required grooming kit, Chief Horse Management
judges would not only accept the traditional oval, short bristled,
relatively soft brushes with hand straps, but that we would accept any brush
that was softer than a dandy brush. What we'll now see 9 times out of 10 is
a long bristled soft brush, not a real body brush. Last year I wrote an
article about the uses of a traditional body brush versus a long bristled
soft brush. The main thing to remember is that a traditional body brush
does a much better job at smoothing the oils from the skin over the coat and
creating that "bloom" in a well cared for mount.

If a rider is using a long bristled soft brush, the bristles are designed to
flick off the hair and dust themselves, so a currycomb is no longer required
to clean the body brush.

Are you starting to see the dilemma now? Believe me, at past Chief Horse
Management seminars we've spent hours debating this issue, with people
passionately clinging to their own side of the fence. With my own horses, I
resolve it by using a Grooma Groomer, jelly scrubber, or other rubber
massage tool depending on the horse's sensitivity and then I hold a metal
curry comb when I'm using my traditional body brush in order to clean out
the bristles after each swipe.

Because there was never any resolution among Chiefs, the competitor will
find some Chiefs accept currycombs that don't fit the traditional
description, and others that will only accept oval shaped rubber tool with
the hand strap and 3 oval rows of teeth. My suggestion is to get the
traditional currycomb, learn how to use it, and keep it in your grooming
kit. One other advantage of this type is that they cost less than $2.00
while the other styles start at $6.00 and go up from there.

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Recommended products and services
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The Dr. Naylor brand wound dressing called "Blu-Kote" has been around at
least as long as I've had horses. It's a very distinctive purple spray or
liquid that works great on stubborn sores. My family used it on our burro,
Sixpence, who would get nearly eaten alive by flies on her legs. I forgot
about it for a while until my horse vet gave it to me to use on a weeping
sore. Since then, I've used it on open hock sores, stitched areas, and
generally any wound that I would like to dry out and keep flies away from.
The label says it's also appropriate for ringworm treatment, itchy fungus
eczema, and foot and pad sores in dogs (don't use it on cats!) Blu-Kote is
widely available at tack stores and in catalogs.

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Rally and rating tips:
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Many of you have already caught on to solving the grungy sponge dilemma, but
for those of you still looking for an alternative to the face and dock
sponges in your grooming kit, you may now use disposable wipes (diaper
wipes, or just disposable hand wipes). This method is much more sanitary
than sponges, and even better, you don't have to label the individual wipes!
If you want to be more environmentally friendly, washcloths are another
alternative. They still need to be labeled face or dock, and with the
competitor's name or number, but they are much easier to label and can be
machine washed at the end of the rally!

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Questions and answers
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Stormy,

Got this question from someone in my region.

"I need some information. Whitney (D3) is using a Myler combination bit.
Does this bit need two reins or a bit converter or can it be used with one
rein? I thought you might have a direct contact to a person who could give
me the rule on this. She will be using it for show jumping. (or hopes to) I
want to be able to send the kids with some documentation so there won't be
any confusion next weekend. Thanks!"

I have not seen a "Myler Combination Bit" before. Rider in question is a
D3. Your thoughts as a bit expert? It's a very complicated looking bit. A
picture is at http://www.toklat.com/myler/mbits_cheek_o.html. I actually
thought the only approved Myler bits were the snaffles with the simple
curves. Anyway, appreciate all the help you can give.

Rich Bensinger, CHMJ White Mountain region

Hi Rich,

Great question, I don't know how much Pony Club authority I have in
answering this question, but I can certainly explain how the bit works and
the problems they might run into.

There are several variations of the Myler combination bit. Both the
mouthpieces and cheeks are variable. What makes it the "combo" bit is
that along with a bit that can be used as a snaffle or gag/elevator/curb
depending on the rein placement, it also has the nose/jaw piece that if
the lower rein placement is used, the contraption will have pressure on the
bars, tongue, palate, corners of lips, chin groove, poll, AND top of the
nosebone. The nose part serves to make it a combination of a
gag/elevator mix similar to a Pessoa and a mechanical hackamore. I'm sure
people who have horses that tend to lower their heads or pull on the bit
might find it a helpful bit to have until they deaden the nerves on their
horse's face. I would not let a student of mine ride in it but in the hands
of an expert it may fill a niche.

I would recommend for these bits that they be treated at least the same
as we treat Pessoa bits. For a D, they could use two reins, one giving
snaffle action, and the other giving gag/elevator/curb action or use a
converter that would at least tone down the gag/elevator/curb effect. For a
C they would need to use two reins unless they want to use the one ring
immediately below the snaffle ring. In the picture you sent there isn't a
rein placement immediately below the snaffle ring but there are other combo
bit varieties that do look more similar to the Pessoa bit with the two rings
under the snaffle ring, I show one in my video. Look here:
http://www.toklat.com/myler/mbits_cheek_p.html .

For Dressage rallies, the Dressage phase of Eventing, and the flat portion
of C ratings they would certainly not be allowed. The Mylers that are
approved for these phases are loose ring, eggbutt, D ring, full, and
half cheek snaffle bits with the comfort snaffle wide barrel or traditional
single jointed mouthpiece.

If you want to ask someone with more authority in the Pony Club
organization, try Wayne Quarles.

That's my 2 cents!
Stormy

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Hi Stormy, & Wayne,

Our show jumping rally is in two days, and I've received a question
regarding earplugs. Can a horse wear them at a show jumping rally?

I looked in the discipline rules, and did not see anything specifically
forbidding them, so I would see that as an okay for them. Only blinkers &
hoods were specifically forbidden. (page 5, article 15, paragraph 2)

It seems to me that if we don't want a horse semi-blinded, wouldn't we also
not want them to be semi-deaf? Having never used any of these items, I'm
curious about it.

:) Mouse Terstegge, Mid Cal HMO

Mouse,

As all saddlery rules generally follow the USEF rules, and ear plugs are
not mentioned in the USEF Jumper or general rules, the USPC Show Jumping
rules nor the HM Handbook, it would seem that at this point they would have
to be allowed.
I have copied this to the SJ committee Chairs and the VP of Activities,
for their input if they can find something different.

Wayne Quarles, Activities Services Director, USPC

Hi Mouse,

Wayne has the definitive answer on earplugs at rallies, but here's my
observation. I actually think they are very helpful for some horses. I
know when I wear earplugs personally, I can focus and relax 100 times more
than without, even if it's during the day and I'm out doing something. I
think it just calms a certain hypersensitivity that some horses (and people)
have. I've heard of some types of Autistic people getting much relief from
earplugs and dark sunglasses, they don't have the same noise and sight
filters that other people have, so this is a way they can help filter out
over-stimulation. Hopefully on a cross country course a horse will not have
to be listening to any rustling bushes that may have cougars awaiting lunch.

Just smile and nod :0)
Stormy

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Hi Stormy,

I have a few questions about bitting and several other issues. First,
is a D-ring snaffle with coppers rollers allowed in the Pony Club flat part
of a test? the jumping part? And I have also been confused on the double
rein thing, I have been using a bubble bit for cross-country with only one
rein on the second ring, is that legal in Pony Club? And on that bubble bit
I added a curb strap is that legal? I know that the bubble bit was not
designed to be used with the curb, but with my horse is relaxing better with
it. Do you have a better idea on bits for me to try?

The next round of questions begins with bell boots. On my horse, his
pasterns get torn up really badly when I use bell boots, but I'm worried
that if I don't use bell boots that he'll injure his heels just as bad. Do
you have any ideas for this? Because I'm shipping my horse back to Kentucky
I'm also wondering about what type of shipping boots would be best for this
length of a trip?
Thanks for your help.

Christina Brennan, English Hills PC, C2

Hi Christina,

Great questions as always. Any bit with rollers is not allowed for
dressage rallies, the dressage part of Eventing rallies, and the flat
portion of ratings if you're a C or above. The one exception is the Myler
brand comfort snaffle wide barrel mouthpiece which has a part that looks
like a thin roller, but doesn't roll freely, and is designed just so the bit
can flex a little but not pinch in the mouth.

The bubble bit (a.k.a. Pessoa, Dutch gag, European elevator, etc...) is
now allowed to be used with only one rein if it is on the ring directly
below the snaffle ring, or on the snaffle ring. If you use any ring lower,
a C or above rider will be required to use 2 reins with at least one on the
snaffle ring. If it's a D rider, they may use bit converters.

By adding a curb strap to the bubble bit, you limit the amount of gag
action, and add a vise-action on the lower jaw. If your horse relaxes
better like this, it's probably because now the bit can't rise as high in
his mouth, he may not like it hitting his molars. There is nothing
specifically disallowing a curb strap on the bubble bit, but ultimately, the
technical delegate at a show or rally will decide whether it's allowed.

I know you have a bitless bridle, so something you might like to try is
using the bitless bridle with a snaffle bridle over it. Put on the bitless
bridle like normal, then take a snaffle headstall and bit (minus the
cavesson and browband) and put it over the bitless bridle. You then hold
the reins like you would with a double bridle or pelham, with the bitless
bridle reins on the outside of your pinkies and the snaffle rein between the
pinkie and ring finger. Try it for a couple of weeks before making any
final decision, if you're not used to riding with two reins it will take at
least that long to get comfortable with it. I find this is a great way to
keep the benefits of both the bitless bridle and a snaffle bit at the same
time. The other benefit, is that when you're required to use just a snaffle
bit, your horse won't have to take time adjusting to it.

For bell boots, you could try the no-turn kind, but I haven't had great
luck with them, they always seem to turn anyway. My best recommendation
would be to either use bell boots with fleece at the top (the only problem
you'll run into with these is if you try to ride through a field with
foxtails or burrs) or there's another device similar to a bell boot called
an Italian jumper quarter bell boot. It is literally about 1/4 the size of
a traditional bell boot and designed to fit snugly around the coronary band
and extending up to cover the bulbs of the heel while leaving the front of
the hoof relatively free to feel if the horse hits a pole. They are also
described as having a non-chafe design for sensitive horses. I've seen them
in action and they seem to work very well. You can find both styles in the
Dover catalog, or at www.doversaddlery.com.

For shipping the horse to Kentucky, the first thing you want to do is
check with the shipper for their requirements. Very often they require that
the horse not have boots or bandages on. This is actually a really sensible
requirement because the shipper may either not have the time, experience, or
desire to fix the boots or bandages if the horse gets into trouble with them
during the 3 or so days he may be in transit. If you were trailering the
horse yourself, I'd definitely say to do the official pony club shipping
wraps. These will provide the most protection in the case of an accident,
they will be the most difficult for a horse to get off, and they will also
prevent most swelling. There is no shipping boot that will prevent
swelling. Again, I would not trust a horse in these wraps for more than a
day without a knowledgeable person rewrapping each day. If by chance the
shipper allows shipping boots and you feel comfortable with them checking
the boots often, the Lende style boots (also Dover makes a good generic one)
or the Woof shipping boots (or Dover equivalent) are good choices.

Good luck in Kentucky!
Stormy

Note: The shipper that we will be using from the Sierra Pacific region to
Kentucky requests that no boots or bandages be used.

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Hi Stormy,

I have a rally question. We are having a show jumping rally and a
young un asked if it mattered what color the saddle pad was. I thought it
only has to be clean and in good repair. I know the hunter/jumper types
prefer the fluffy, fitted pads, and the eventers the more utilitarian pads,
but other than that, I didn't think it mattered. Any advice?

Marcy Neher, HMO and provisional CHMJ, Inland Empire region

Hi Marcy,

Pads for show jumping can be whatever the competitor prefers. Pads
actually aren't even required, remember those old British books where nobody
used a numnah [the British word for saddle pad]? Of course then you'd have
to remember to clean and condition the underside of your saddle very well
after each ride.

Happy chiefing!
Stormy

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Hi Stormy!

I have a strange question that I don't have an answer for and I thought
that I would ask a few of my chief friends. The issue of chaps, half chaps,
Ariats, have not been allowed at rally or ratings in the past accept the
polocrosse rally, where it states it is allowed in the discipline rules. I
don't have a problem with C's on up, but where the D's are supposed to be
neat and clean, it might be an issue soon. For instance, the show jumping
rules do not say that they are not allowed, and they refer to the horse
management rules which list formal and informal attire. On the formal
inspection pages the say neat, clean and appropriate attire for D's. They
also refer to the AHSA (now USA Equestrian) rules, which most pony clubbers
do not have. What was the reason that these chap things are not allowed in
the first place? I must be having a senior moment. No one has been
presented to me for a D formal but they have been asking. Half chaps are
becoming quite popular out here in the west, pardner!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Linda M. Hagerman, CHMJ, Northwest Region

Hi Linda,

I know half chaps are specifically forbidden in Dressage and Eventing
rallies in order to be in line with USA Equestrian rules. In this region
generally the clubs have taught the members not to ride with them on the
premise that they give the rider a false sense of security that they lose
when they change to tall boots. I know it's a moot point if you're using
smooth half chaps, but some people also believe that there is more of a
safety issue with half chaps possibly coming loose or catching on things
which would be more likely than with tall boots or jodhpurs.

Personally, I love and use half chaps but I don't feel strongly enough
one way or the other about them to make it an issue at a national level.
The topic was brought up on the Chief Horse Management Judge's digest and
the general consensus was that half chaps need to be regulated by each
specific discipline, not by the CHMJ group.

Keep it neat and clean,
Stormy

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Greetings oh Wise One,

As the most knowledgeable person in all matters of bits I'm seeking a
bit of advice. As you know Emma (11 years old) is taking her trusty steed
Echo to the D camp. We can trust that Echo will get pretty strong out in
the open and I am considering a stronger bit for the cross country riding.

Actually I have no idea what will give a little more control without
being overly harsh on the Pony. I'm thinking kimberwicke with a single joint
or a D ring snaffle with a slow twist. Echo is currently ridden in a loose
ring snaffle. On a good day she is good. In a bad day she is quite strong.

I want Emma to have the confidence she needs to be able to dictate the
pace and am afraid that Echo will take control when things get exciting.

Any thoughts? (Somebody should do a video on bits - it's so confusing!)

David Forsythe, DC, Valley of the Moon PC, Assistant HM Judge

Greetings oh Wise One in training,

I'll just have to look into my crystal ball about what might work, you
really never know until you try. First, I need to stand on my soapbox and
say that in my perfect world, nobody would ride cross country until they
could always control the Pony with the mildest bit or bitless method of
control. I know that not everybody lives in my world, so here's the next
best choice. I'd avoid the kimberwick with a jointed mouth piece and the
slow twist snaffle, each of those are prone to cause too much pain which
could be a good reason for Echo to bolt or refuse. If you want Emma to have
a little more leverage without undue pain, either an Uxeter kimberwick with
a low port or mullen mouth, or a pelham with a low port or mullen mouth and
bit converters would be in order. The mullen mouth Uxeter kimberwick would
be first on my list because the reins can be adjusted in the different slots
depending on how Echo responds. Ideally Emma would use the mullen mouth
pelham with two reins, but she probably couldnąt handle the two reins just
yet.

Here's the closest version I could find with a quick Internet search:

http://www.toklat.com/myler/mbits_cheek_d.html . I'd recommend that one
with the mullen barrel mouthpiece. Make sure you get the correct size.
Echo would probably be at least a 5". For fitting a mullen mouth, just
determine whether your current bit fits without pushing in on the lips at
all and then measure it from the inside of one ring to the inside of the
other. Myler bits are definitely not the cheapest but they are good
quality, just donąt get misled by some of their marketing techniques. I
think they have a bit rental program so you can try it before you buy it.
Take look around on that website to see.

See you at D camp!
Stormy


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Fun and educational websites
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First up is a fantastic resource site by Jessica Jahiel. Jessica Jahiel's
HORSE-SENSE Newsletter is a free, subscriber-supported electronic Q&A
newsletter which deals with all aspects of horses, their management, riding,
and training. Since 1995, Jessica Jahiel, award-winning author, clinician,
and lecturer, has been writing 8-12 articles a month based on questions from
subscribers. Over 1150 articles are currently indexed and searchable in her
newsletter archives.

I have spent hours looking over Jessica's questions and answers, and can
recommend her advice without any reservations. Look for her site at:
www.horse-sense.org

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This next site is of special interest to any upper level dressage riders out
there. It's a novel concept. With a subscription fee, the subscriber has
access to video taped lessons from the world's top dressage trainers right
on their computer. Of course you need a PC and a high speed internet
connection, neither of which I have, but the site looks to be worth the
subscription!
www.dressageclinic.com

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Third up is the Kentucky Equine Research site. This site contains lots of
up to the minute research papers concerning equine nutrition and other care
aspects. Check out the library link and especially the article about
dispelling feeding myths.
www.ker.com

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Does your horse flinch when you brush his back or mount up? Try this
article:
http://www.worldzone.net/recreation/virtuallyhorses/sorebacks.html

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Do you really need to deworm every 6-8 weeks? Have a fecal count done and
see! These two sites talk about a service where you can send your horse's
fecal sample to get it tested by a vet for parasites at a very low cost.
This site says that it's only $4.95 for a limited time, and someone else
said it was $10.00. Either way, it's a good investment!
http://www.americanhorsepubs.org/communication/communique_archive/news_updat
e_134.htm
Here's the site that talks more about it though rather difficult to
navigate:
www.thenaturalhorsevet.net

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Featured rule
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Page 35 Section 23 B:
During the actual formal inspection, or safety checks, running martingales
must be in place and correctly fitted. However, if coming a distance from
the barn, the martingale should be knotted at the chest, with the reins out
of the rings, and the mount led to the inspection/safety check with the
reins over the mount's head [off the neck]. Then the reins should be put
back through the rings and the mount presented as if ready to be mounted.
Mounts requiring boots need to come to formal inspection and/or safety
checks with boots on and properly fitted.

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Call for submissions
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Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

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