HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
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Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: 10 ways to be a good boarder
3) Recommended products and services: Larry's Horse Spray
4) Rally and rating tips: T/Gel for dandruff
5) Questions and answers: worms 'n' bits
6) Fun and educational websites: Art exercise
7) Featured rule: Fastened doors

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Comments from readers
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Hi, Stormy,

Wonderful newsletter, as usual. Thank you!

Regarding the USPC baling twine rule, i.e., for breakaway purposes, use
only the hemp variety, not the nylon type, I am pleased to see that it is
NOT required. I have seen too many horses inadvertently taught at rallies
to pull back when they successfully break breakaway halters and ties,
perhaps with minimal effort as they swing their head at a fly. Perhaps more
in the west, where we have a tradition of wide open spaces, many of us
believe is it essential that horses learn to respect being tied up. It can
be much more dangerous for them to be loose in this world of fast cars and
other threats to their lives. I would prefer to put those confirmed pullers
in a stall or trailer rather than have them breaking loose. Or tie them
high to a high line with some give in it. I have written to USPC in the
past strongly advocating that breakaway twine not be required, and
apparently enough of us believe this that it has indeed become optional. I
respect that others are firmly on the other side of the fence regarding
this issue.

I do think nylon breakaway twine is useful for a confirmed puller in that
it is almost strong enough to be useful, if doubled, but it is very easy to
cut with that sharp knife you have handy in an emergency.

My two cents,
Eileen O'Farrell, mother of a graduate "A" PC'er!

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Stormy,

I recently asked Wayne Quarles about the use of half chaps and he
steered me to the National Website, Forms, F, for Frequently Asked
Questions - Activities. There is a nice explanation there of their
use in Pony Club.

Your newsletter is really great!

Thank you,
Krista Powers

Thanks Krista, here it is, typed out for everyone from the USPC website:

Regarding the use of half chaps, in competition, the only place where
half chaps are allowed is in Polocrosse. Again, we are stating that for
qualifying rallies and at championships, they are not permitted, except in
Polocrosse.
While they are not encouraged for all mounted activities, they may be
used for lessons.
At ratings of C or higher, they are not appropriate for either formal or
informal attire.
At D ratings and rallies, the DC may deem them appropriate.
Half chaps are not recommended for games with the vaulting on and off the
ponies.
It should be noted that using half chaps with riding sneakers are not
felt appropriate. Riding sneakers do not have the depth of heel to ensure
that the strap would stay in place. As with all equipment, half chaps
should be in good repair and safe. A worn and stretched piece of elastic on
a half chap is as unsafe as worn stitching on a stirrup leather.

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10 ways to be a good boarder
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Not everybody is lucky enough to have their horse at home. Over the years,
I've kept my horses at home, at a self-care facility, large and small
boarding facilities, as well as been a manager at a boarding facility and an
owner/manager. Whether you keep your horse at a friend's small barn, or a
huge boarding facility, here are 10 recommendations on how to be a good
boarder.

1) Pay your board on time.
A day or two late might not seem like much to you, but when the manager is
trying to keep good records, deposit checks, and run a boarding facility,
the people who always dependably pay on time score huge bonus points that
may come in handy some day.

2) Pick up after your horse.
Few facilities are staffed well enough that whenever a horse drops a load,
someone runs behind him with a manure fork to pick it up. Your
consideration and care will show when you pick up your horse's manure at the
tie rail, aisle, or even where you think nobody will notice it. The same
goes for the dirt from their feet when you pick them out, and loose hairs
from clipping or shedding. If you're at a facility you're not familiar
with, ask where you should put it, or just put it back in your trailer if
you trailered in.

3) Make friends with new boarders.
When a new horse and owner arrive, make every effort to say hello, ask the
owner about their horse and riding preferences, and help them settle in.
It's just like welcoming the new kid at school, those first few friendships
are crucial to the newcomer who might feel very out of place. Think of how
you would like to be welcomed into a new barn.

4) Make sure your horse is easy to work around.
Does your horse bite, kick, or crowd people in his stall? How easy is she
to lead? A horse that is hard to work around will generally not be treated
well at most facilities. You might spend years teaching a horse to behave
under saddle, but what about the rest of the time? There are hundreds of
people out there that are geniuses when it comes to groundwork with horses.
They might not even ride the same style as you, but they can teach you how
to improve your horse's ground manners. If your horse doesn't improve,
consider that he might need a pasture, a herd, some turn out time, or more
regular work. Or it might be physical pain that causes her to act out. If
the barn workers can help reinforce the new habits that will also help.

5) Offer to help the other boarders, the manager, or the owner.
If you see something that needs to be done, instead of just complaining
about it, how about coming up with some solutions? Do you hate having to
leave your horse's blanket on all day, or fly mask on all night because you
can't come out twice every day? What about starting a blanketing co-op at
your barn? People who want their horses blanketed or unblanketed can take
turns coming out and taking care of each other's horses. If you're the only
one who can come out, it's not unreasonable to charge a small fee to take
care of those duties, as long as it's o.k. with the owner.

6) Observe all rules.
Whether the rules are posted, written in the boarding agreement, or just
spoken verbally, follow them religiously. When there are pages of rules, it
has helped me to go back and reread them every few months so I don't
inadvertently forget any. If you have a special circumstance and you would
like to make an exception, talk with the owner or manger before assuming
that it will be all right.

7) Respect the owner/manager's privacy.
If the owner or manager live on the premises, you are in their yard every
time you come to see your horse. They don't get to go home at the end of
the day, they're always on call. Respect their need for some measure of
privacy and don't go to their house unless it is an absolute emergency or
you've been invited. Use your best judgment on this one.

8) Visit your horse regularly.
This is one of my personal pet peeves, when a horse's owners rarely visit
their horse. It's one thing if your horse is in full training, but if he
sits in a stall or pen, or even a pasture with the most attention being one
stall cleaning and a couple of feedings per day, he isn't getting the
attention he needs. If you find that you don't have enough time to spend
with your horse, it's better to put her up for sale or just give her to
someone who will take the time to be with her. Even retired horses need
attention. If you have a retired or laid up horse that you can't be with,
make sure the place you board understands this and will give your horse
personal attention. Alternatively, consider hiring a Pony Clubber to check,
groom, exercise, and dote on your horse!

9) Be aware of how other people's horses are acting when you ride.
Have you ever been on a spooky horse when someone snaps a longe whip beside
you? It's not a pretty sight. If it looks like someone might be having
trouble with their horse, take every precaution to keep the situation safe.
Remember to keep at least a horse's distance between you and the other
rider's horse, pass left to left, and if you're just warming up or cooling
out, stay off the rail to let the others work on it. Be especially aware of
people on green horses that can be very unpredictable and hard to steer.
Also, watch out for young riders and small animals in the arena. If you're
in doubt, ask before you do something that might upset another horse.

10) Don't gossip.
This is probably the hardest rule of all to follow, but the most rewarding
one. Gossip is defined by Webster's dictionary as: idle talk about others,
regardless of fact. If you find yourself relating stories about how you
heard that someone saw this trainer doing this to her horse, that's gossip.
If you tell someone that you can't stand this one boarder because your
friend said she did this horrible thing, that's gossip. If you find
yourself saying anything with the intent to hurt someone's feelings or
reputation, it's best left unsaid. How about talking about your dreams,
your goals, your own challenges, and successes? How about listening to
others share their best too?

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Recommended products and services: Larry's Horse Spray
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It's almost the end of fly season but they're still out in full force. If
your fly spray bottle is getting low, I'd suggest Larry's Horse Spray
concentrate.

Larry's Horse Spray is basically pesticide and chemical free, nice smelling,
and works just as well as the most expensive toxic pesticides. As an added
bonus, it's very economical to use, dilute it 1:5 with water.

Some ingredients include:
Mineral Oil
Aloe Oil
Oil of Cedarwood
Citronella
and Oil of Eucalyptus

Larry's Horse Spray is available in many tack stores as well as by calling
Larry's Tack in San Bernadino at 1-800-908-8886.

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Rally and rating tips: T/Gel
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It seems like I'm always in the position of checking manes and tails for
dandruff. At the C2 level, little if any dandruff is acceptable, and by C3,
no dandruff is the standard. When I see some really dandruff-free skin, I
always ask what the secret was. Of course regular washing and care plays a
part, but more and more often now, I hear that the secret was Neutrogena's
T/Gel dandruff shampoo. That's not to say that one wash with this magic
shampoo will cure your horse's dandruff problem, but if you use it
regularly, every few days for 3 weeks before a show, rating, or rally, and
then every day the week before, you have every right to believe that the
dandruff will be gone. Be sure to work the shampoo in right to the base of
the mane and tailbone and then to rinse it out completely.

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Questions and answers
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Hi Stormy,

After six years of pony club and sponsoring whomever was available at our
barn we have bought Bryn a horse of her own. Hopefully she can now begin
working toward her C3 on her own horse. The vet who did our pre- purchase
exam and gave him his booster shots yesterday answered my questions about
worming by telling me that worming every time he gets shod is unnecessarily
often for our environment. (For her pony club record book Bryn has wormed at
the time of shoeing.) This vet recommended four times a year -Sept, Dec,
March, and June with Ivermectin, Ivermectin, Strongid and Panacur in that
order. Does this schedule sound reasonable to you and will it suffice for
the records Bryn must keep for her C3 preparation? I would appreciate your
input.

Thanks,
Heidi Byer at Marin County Pony Club

Hi Heidi,

Fantastic question! Your vet is absolutely correct. The parasite
prevention and control systems that we have these days are so effective,
that it turns out in most cases that we've been overmedicating our horses.
Today's dewormers are extremely effective, and then combine that with daily
or weekly manure removal, fly control, and good grooming habits. The
internal parasites that used to plague horses, are now fighting a losing
battle.

Sometimes you will still need to deworm as often as every 6-8 weeks. In
situations where a horse is out with a large herd in an irrigated or
otherwise year-round green pasture where the manure isn't removed regularly,
or there are lots of different horses coming and going, more frequent
deworming may be warranted. Also, if your horse frequently travels to
different barns and eats grass that may be infected with worm larvae, you
may want to deworm more frequently.

The best way to tell if your deworming program is effective for your horse
is to have a manure sample analyzed by your vet. The vet will dilute the
manure, put it under a microscope, and look for parasite eggs or larvae.
Not all manure samples will show all eggs and larvae, but it will give you a
good indication of how effective your deworming program is.

Most likely, the reason the vet recommended ivermectin in September and
December is because it is one of the only ones that kills bot larvae. Bots
are born as tiny yellowish-white eggs, laid typically on the inside of
horse's knees. The botflies lay the eggs on the horses in the fall months
so if you use a boticide (ivermectin or moxidectin) during that time, the
bots that make it into the horse's stomach will be killed. Strongid
(Pyrantel Pamoate) and Panacur (Fenbendazole) are cheaper dewormers that
don't kill as broad a spectrum of worms, and don't kill bots, but they are
very effective when used as part of a rotation program.

In combination with the recommended program from your vet, instead of just
using an ivermectin dewormer in September or December, try one that combines
ivermectin with praziquantel (sold as Equimax, Zimectrin Gold, or Quest
Plus). The praziquantel will allow you to kill tapeworms in the horse.
Tapeworms previously weren't that big of a problem in horses, but now that
we've gotten rid of so many other worms, the tapeworms find horses an easy
host. If you use one of the ivermectins combined with praziquantel once a
year, the horse will get the bot protection as well as protection from
tapeworms and the other varieties of internal parasites.

There's a lot more technical information available online and from your vet
about the specific deworming drugs and brands. I encourage you to look
into it further, especially as Bryn gets ready for her C3, B and HA ratings,
but this answer should give you a good start, and certainly a very effective
deworming program. Any effective deworming program will fulfill the C3
record book requirements as long as the candidate knows what she's doing and
why.

Congratulations on your new horse!
Stormy

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Hi Stormy,

Our Midwest region this last weekend held their games rally. I, among many
others you schooled, held down the AHMJ positions. Your name came up among
us as we tried to do our duties according to the good advice/example you set
for us at Midwest Mega Rally last June. Some held firm to a philosophy of
strict standard adherance; I was more on the understanding side, especially
when time was running thin & jr members were feeling overwhelmed. We had
to measure bucket heights to shoulder of the horse et al. After 7 pm I just
said: Let's just explain (read teach) and fix it for them. Most of them had
to cool down their horses, do TB, and get all cleaned up. We proceeded to
fix the water buckets and turn around their clips. I think, no, I'm proud
to have done the right thing to give assistance, not brow beat them to
death!

Julie Shiebany, Midwest PC mom and AHMJ

Hi Julie,

I'm glad you're continuing the HM crusade, your attitude is exactly what I
love to see in an assistant, and chief! I should have made a something very
clear about the water bucket height. The "bucket opening above the point of
shoulder" is not a written rule in the HM handbook so it can only ever be an
educational moment. The only written rule along those lines is that hay
nets must be hung above the point of shoulder. Hanging the bucket above the
horse's point of shoulder will discourage pawers and kickers from getting
caught, however, we also have to remember that some horses will drink better
from big muck-type buckets on the ground. If a clean muck bucket is
properly secured in the corner of the stall, with its handles
tied/taped/secured down or removed, it can also work well although it will
be quite difficult to keep clean. The other practice of turning the latches
on double ended snaps to face the wall, is yet another example of a good
thing to teach, but not to penalize since it isn't a written rule.

Keep on teaching!
Stormy

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Hello,

The DVD [Understanding Bits] arrived yesterday and I enjoyed it very much!
Thank you, especially the fact that you focus on English riding bits.
Everyone who rides should see this DVD.

I have a question I hope you have time to answer. It's about Western
bitting. Why do they need such hard mouthpieces and long shanks? I know
that the western riding do not use rein contact like in English riding.
Controlling the horse is by first seat and leg, than voice and last rein,
right? But wouldn't it be possible to ride the horse just as perfect with a
simple short shanked bit with mullen mouthpiece?

Anne Waal, Norway

Hi Anne,

By the quality of your question and the terms you used, I can see that you
really understand the material that was presented. You asked a very good
question about Western riding and bits and I'll answer to the best of my
abilities. It might be interesting to get more of a Western trainer's view
on the subject as well.

You are absolutely correct in pointing out that control of the horse is done
best using the progression of seat and leg, voice, and then rein. Actually
the very first step should just be thought or intention. When a person has
the highest level of connection with a horse, nothing more than a thought is
needed for control, much the same as how the whole herd knows to run if one
horse senses a predator approaching. At that point it's not really control,
it's an agreement.

Bits are definitely a short cut and safety measure when training a horse.
Depending on the level of partnership a person wants with their horse, they
may never progress past the use of a bit. The other thing to keep in mind
is that using a bit is not always worse than bitless methods of control.
Riding a horse in control without a bit, and especially without a bridle,
requires months to years to achieve, and a great amount of focus. If a
person's purpose for riding is for recreation, physical activity, or to
fulfill competition goals, then bitless and/or bridleless riding may not be
important to them. Additionally, some people find that their horses seem
more secure with a bit than without, possibly because then the rider may be
able to relax better knowing he has an extra measure of security.

The biggest differences between correct English and correct Western riding
lie in their roots. English riding as we know it was developed for warfare,
transportation over relatively short distances, and hunting. Western riding
was developed for working cattle and transportation over the vast distances
of the untamed West. Western riding has its roots in Spanish riding. In
bitting a Spanish horse, a trainer will often start with a bosal, then move
to a snaffle, next a double bridle (snaffle and curb together), and then
"finish" the horse with just the curb bit. Modern day Western trainers may
start the horse with a bosal or sidepull, then move to a snaffle, and finish
with the curb.

In the educated hands of a talented rider, a curb bit is often more mild
than many snaffles. Traditionally, a curb will have an unjointed mouthpiece
which sits quietly in the horse's mouth. If the curb has a medium or high
port, or is a "spade" bit or a "cathedral mouth", the mouthpiece will be
designed to lie flat between the horse's tongue and palate. With this
design, the bit has essentially no effect when the horse's head is in the
desired position and no rein is being used. If the horse brings his head
above or below the "ideal" position, the port will create pressure on the
tongue and palate, even without rein pressure. The horse, by his own trial
and error, will often find that the most comfortable way to carry his head
with a bit like this is near the vertical, where the trainer wants him. If
a trainer were to use a short shanked bit with a mullen mouthpiece, like you
suggest, she wouldn't have the advantage of the bit itself encouraging the
correct head position although it would be very kind to the horse. Unless
the horse is sufficiently in self-carriage to hold his head near the
vertical, the trainer then might have to rely on more rein aids rather than
just letting the bit do the work.

As an interesting side note, both Spanish and Western horses are bred to
work cattle, but from different ends of the spectrum. Many Spanish horses
are trained for fighting bulls in a small arena by elevating their forehand
and learning to engage their haunches. Western horses are trained to
"chase" cows by lowering their forehand and in effect, mimicking the cows
movements in cutting or roping events. Western horses are taught a degree
of collection, but the Quarter Horse's forehand is so low, that the
hindquarters must exaggerate the lowering in order to engage. This is seen
clearly in the movement of the sliding stop. Another big difference between
Spanish and Western horses is that the Spanish horse, like an Andalusian or
Lusitano, is built to carry his neck arched and up, and then to break at the
poll and compress his throatlatch to bring his nose close to the vertical.
Western Quarter Horse types, are bred to carry their necks long and low,
with their head approaching the vertical off of a slightly extended
throatlatch area.

In the hands of a master, a bit can be a finely tuned instrument. In the
hands of a butcher, it is a cleaver. Keep educating people and setting a
good example.

Mange takk,
Stormy

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Hello,

I have a question on a bit, it is a curb but the port is flat with 4 copper
rings in between the port, it also swivels on the shank. How is this
supposed to work? What is it called? I'm just trying to understand the
equipment.

[Editor's note, a picture of this bit is available here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
click on "US port bit" file.]

There is quite a story to tell about my horse, he was in a combination gag
with rawhide nose band and a twisted wire, single jointed mouthpiece. He
was running through the bit and getting hurt. The minute I went to a plain
old curb he worked great, but now I am losing flexion and some stop. I run
barrels and the horse has some emotional issues. I have almost lost
patience with him totally. I used this bit I described tonight in the arena
and worked barrels and poles and he did well but I am bothered by the fact
he chomps his teeth, he hasn't done this before. We bought a wire headset
but I don't think I even want to go there. I was just wondering what bit
this is and how it works, the store loves me because I have so many bits.
Thanks for your help.

Frustrated in S.D.!!!

P.S. we have tried a lot of bits and he does not handle any thing that has a
joint in the mouth (I think he has a sensitive roof of his mouth).

Hi Frustrated,

Basically, you have a curb with a U.S. port mouthpiece with copper rollers.

Here's the breakdown of what it does:

The shanks are in the "7" shape so that the horse can't grab them with his
lips or teeth and to give the bit a little more play than a straight shanked
bit before it comes into effect.

The U.S. port was originally developed for the cavalry. The port is large
enough that if the horse raises his nose above the vertical or if you use
the reins any little bit, the port will push against the roof of his mouth
and the cannons (the straight parts between the port and the sides of the
bit) will push down on his tongue and bars at the same time. This will make
most horses open their mouth to avoid the pain. The port is "spooned" which
means it has been rounded so that it isn't quite as rough on the horse's
palate as if it were square.

The copper rollers promote salivation in the horse's mouth. Some salivation
is good because it keeps the mouth moist so it doesn't get rubbed as
severely by the bit metals. The fact that the rollers move is supposed to
"pacify" nervous horses, but in my experience it just promotes them fussing
with the bit more. The steel material that the rest of the bit is made of
will also help promote salivation as it oxidizes. Essentially, the bit
rusts, and that taste makes the horse salivate, just like you would if you
put a piece of rusting steel in your mouth. I wouldn't suggest using the
bit once it has rusted excessively.

The rectangular "dees" are another spot you could put reins if you want
direct "snaffle" bit action rather than leverage. The way that the shanks
will swivel allows a little more play with the reins laterally before the
mouthpiece is affected.

You just asked for an explanation of the particular bit so there it is. Now
to take it a step further, let's look into the horse psychology behind what
might work or not work with you and this horse.

You said that he doesn't like the single jointed mouthpiece (commonly called
snaffle in Western riding, but actually a snaffle is just a bit with direct
pressure rather than the leverage of a curb bit). Usually horses who don't
like that kind of pressure aren't so bothered by the roof of their mouth as
by the nutcracker effect it has on the lower jaw. Try pulling one of those
on the bottom of your bare foot, they hurt! The mouthpiece in this new bit
doesn't have that nutcracker effect on the lower jaw. Instead, it basically
pries the mouth open when you use the reins. Probably not the effect you're
looking for either.

The most important thing to remember when selecting a bit is that a bit
doesn't stop or turn the horse. The horse's mind decides when to stop or
turn. The most a bit can do is to enable the rider to suggest that the
horse stop or turn. It's just a cue, not a brake or steering wheel. If you
get a bit that is uncomfortable to the horse, he will be distracted by the
metal in his mouth, and not really listening to you. As you have found, if
you keep looking for the perfect bit that will magically make your horse
stop or turn, you will make the tack store owners very happy. Don't worry,
you're not alone, the sheer number of bit designs available is testimony to
the popularity of this way of thinking.

Often people think that a horse has to be really nervous and hyped up to be
a successful barrel horse. Actually, it's often the relaxed, comfortable
horses who can really put on the speed and accurate turns when the pressure
is on, the nervous ones just waste their energy needlessly. A relaxed horse
starts with a relaxed rider, comfortable tack, and a pain-free body.

I would suggest going back to a basic low port grazing curb bit or even a
mullen mouth snaffle or kimberwick for a while. You may already have
something like it in your arsenal. From there, the next and probably most
important step is to find a trainer who really understands where stops and
turns come from, a willing horse who wants to please the rider. Have you
seen demonstrations of horses doing reining patterns bridleless? Not that
we all have to go bridleless, but that really does show where it all comes
from. It will certainly take more time than just buying a harsh bit that
will stop him for a few more times before you have to move on to the next
one, but in the long run, the horse will appreciate you much more for it.

I hope I have been of some assistance, please let me know how things
progress.

Keep it simple,
Stormy


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Fun and educational websites
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This web page has an activity that would be a great art and observation
project for home-schooled kids, a Pony Club activity for younger members or
just fun for horse crazy artists of any age.

Check it out at:
http://www.arts.ufl.edu/art/rt_room/horse/horsing_around.html


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Featured rule
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2002 Horse Management Handbook page 28 section 8:

Doors must be securely fastened, whether open or closed, unless a person is
in the stall with a mount. In that case, the door must be shut (but
unlocked) or tied open. If stall guards are allowed by the CHMJ at a rally,
they should be used only when team members are present. They will be hung
so that the top is at the mount's chest level, and the door is secured open.
When entering a stall, competitors should unlatch stall guards rather than
ducking under them. Under no circumstances should a stall guard or door be
locked. When team members are not in the stable area and the mount is in
the stall, the stall guard must be taken down and the door securely fastened
shut.

*Stormy's note: The fastened doors rule also applies to trailer doors when
trailers are being used as tack or feed rooms. Many times a gust of wind
will blow an unsecured trailer door right onto a person's head!

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Call for submissions
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Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

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