HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Messages from readers
2) Recommended products and services: Horse Management Judge's training
presentation
3) Rally and rating tips: Make your nylon halter safer and fix your stirrup
leathers
4) Questions and answers: boots, leathers, scrub, and wraps!
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: How Your Horse Wants You to Ride:
Starting Out, Starting Over by Gincy Self Bucklin
6) Fun and educational websites: Meredith Manor
7) Featured rule: USPC statement on the use of safety vests
8) Horsey Humor: Murphy's Horse and Mule Laws
9) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Messages from the readers
*******************************************************************

Gift wrapping is a great fundraising idea, our club tried it for the first
time in 2005 at a Barnes and Nobles. We tried it over several days.  We
have plans to try it again this year, but only for one day and most likely
Christmas eve, as our club is very small since a lot of our older club
members are off to college this year. 
 
Other fundraising ideas are:
Concession stand at a horse show (or other event) selling doughnuts and
coffee, hot chocolate, etc. Krispe Kreme and Dunkin' Doughnuts have
fundraising programs.

Putting on a horse show

Putting on a clinic

Putting on a tack sale (sell booth spaces as well as tack)

Yard sales

Car wash

Using www.cafepress.com to sell horse related t-shirts and other items that
they offer (you can even make your own designs to sell!)

from Katrina Gowen, graduate B, Sundance Pony Club, Cimarron Region

*************************************************

Hi Stormy!

I am leasing a 26-year-old horse, and last week he had a sore gum, and his
cheek was swollen. Someone loaned me a bitless bridle, and I wanted to
share my experience, even though it was only for a short time.

The first thing I noticed was there was absolutely no time wasted fighting
to place the bit in his mouth‹we both appreciated that change!

Probably the most obvious change I noted was that he didnıt pull as he
normally did with the bit. I could tell he was more comfortable with the
bitless.

His nostrils flared less, so I think he was breathing more easily, and his
head was more flexible. I was still able to control him as well as when I
used a bit. I even think he seemed a bit happier jumping.

Unfortunately, I had to return the bridle, but I know now that I definitely
want to use a bitless bridle when I get my own horse!

Sincerely,
Christie Allen, D1, 49ıer Pony Club, Sierra Pacific Region

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Horse Management Judge's training
presentation
*******************************************************************

Carolyn McCarthy, the HMO (Horse Management Organizer) of the Southern
California region has put together a fantastic power point presentation
to help train horse management judges. Of course she had some great help
from graduate HA Katy Barglow, HA Sarah Beal, and graduate B Nicole
Lagrange.

This presentation isn't just for Horse Management Judge wannabes either.
Anybody who rallies, or helps kids prepare for rallies should read it.

The entire 82 page presentation will be available in the files section of
the Horse Management Newsletter home page as soon as I can get it to upload,
but in the meantime, for your own copy email Katy Barglow at
kbarglow@... or myself, stormy@... . Make sure you have
Power Point on your computer to play it.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Make your own breakaway halter and fix those stirrup
leathers
*******************************************************************

Here's a surprisingly easy and inexpensive way to convert a nylon web halter
to a breakaway halter with a leather crownpiece. These instructions are for
your standard halter that buckles on the left side. If you have one that
buckles on both sides of the crown, you can skip the riveting step.

Start at your neighborhood thrift store, Salvation Army, or Goodwill. While
you're there, obtain a few sturdy leather belts that are the same width and
length as your current nylon halter's crownpiece. The reason you get a few
is because I bet you have more than one all-nylon halter in your arsenal.
Next stop is the hardware store for a small riveting kit with rivets that
can be set with the hand tools included in the kit. Then it's out to the
stable to cut off the current crownpiece from your halter. Next, cut the
buckle side of the belt off and trim it to the same size as the nylon
crownpiece you just cut off. Fold about 2 inches of the belt around the
ring where you cut the nylon crownpiece off, with the extra tab facing out,
not in where it might cause rubs on the horse's cheek. Follow the rivet
directions to punch holes and fasten about 2 rivets to secure the new
leather crownpiece.

That's it! If the belt's current holes aren't big enough for your halter
buckle, just make them larger with your standard leather punch.

And....now that you have rivets and a rivet kit, guess how you can fix those
pesky stirrup leathers that keep getting loose, rotten stitching? You
guessed it, you can rivet your stirrup leather! Just be aware that if you
do this, the rivets will outlast the rest of your stirrup leather so keep
checking the leather and replace it when it starts to crack or stretch at
the stress points.

Thanks to Ann Fickert, Liberty Oaks Pony Club parent for the belt idea, and
my dad, about 20 years ago, for the riveted stirrup leather idea.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

I have two questions for you this time. What is the difference between the
different kinds of woof wear boots? For example, single lock vs. double
lock is pretty straightforward. But what is the difference between double
lock and woof all purpose? There's so many different kinds I just don't
know how to evaluate them - all the descriptions read the same :-(. Second
question: How can I tell if my 14.1 hh Morgan is a cob size or a pony size
for over the hock shipping boots? He wears 8 in. in the front for non
cupping stable wraps, (I suspect 10 in for cupping stable wraps) and the
typical 2 in bigger in the back. I haven't been able to find any
measurements from places like Dover or Stateline. Is the only option to
just order and see? I know that shipping boots don't provide adequate
support and everything, but a couple years ago I had to clean out a veteran
horse's hocks because he panicked coming out of a trailer (broke two of my
fingers, a bone in my wrist, and got pea gravel lodged in his hocks- it was
not pretty) I've decided it's nice to have the extra protection over the top
of wraps. Any ideas?

Thanks!
Jessie, C1, Carbon River Pony Club, Northwest Region

Hi Jessie,

Hereıs the rundown of my experience of Woof boots (which is pretty limited).
Woof boots are great, in general they wear well and seem to fit comfortably.
The ones with more velcro straps will take longer to put on/off but they
will distribute pressure more evenly. The ones with ³lining² should
decrease the amount the horseıs leg sweats underneath, thereby decreasing
possible slipping. All versions are suitable for use on cross country (they
donıt absorb water). There are versions with a PVC ³strike pad² (the part
where the horseıs legs might brush each other). This is fairly soft and
flexible. That means it will probably be a bit more comfortable to the
horse but not offer quite as much tough protection as the polyurethane shell
which is more rigid, thereby offering greater protection from hard blows yet
not offering as much suppleness to conform to the horseıs leg. Boots with
an entire polyurethane shell wonıt breathe as well as ones without it. Both
versions are lined with neoprene so there is always some padding between the
shell and the leg. Thatıs about it for materials, now for the styles. The
different styles of Woof boots that I see in the latest Dover catalog are as
follows:

Single lock brushing boots ­ general purpose design, 3-5 straps, single lock
velcro, PVC strike pad, nylon lined

Double lock brushing boots ­ general purpose design, 2-3 straps, double lock
velcro, PVC strike pad, nylon lined

All-purpose boots ­ same general purpose design, 2 straps (the straps come
in cool colors), single lock velcro, PVC strike pad, no lining

Pro ultra front tendon boots ­ has an open front design that people often
use on jumpers so that if they hit a pole, they will feel it more severely
than with all-purpose boots and hopefully pick up their legs better next
time (you may or may not agree with this philosophy), double lock velcro,
polyurethane shell for stronger protection but a stiffer fit, no lining

Sport club tendon boots ­ open front design, 2 straps, double lock velcro,
these have polyurethane ³batons² (basically, just strips of rigid
polyurethane sewn into the PVC, to add greater protection than just the PVC
but not be as rigid and unbreatheable as a full polyurethane shell), no
lining

Ultra front boots ­ designed with a higher cut-out at the bottom front to
not restrict the joint (think of pictures of a horseıs fetlocks and pasterns
when landing from a jump), I canıt tell exactly what type of fastening it
has, but it looks like one large piece of elastic and velcro, Kevlar fabric
outside (I donıt know how this wears in comparison to the PVC or
polyurethane but should fit more comfortably than polyurethane), nylon lined

Cross country boots ­ designed with a lower, more supportive cup at the
bottom to help protect against overstraining of the tendons (similar to
sports medicine boots), 3 straps, single lock velcro, vents in the neoprene
to aid breatheability, no lining, foam/vinyl strike pad, this boot is
designed more to support tendons than protect against blows, although it
will perform both functions

Fetlock boots ­ smaller size to just protect the most vulnerable part of the
hind legs, the fetlocks, single strap, single lock, no lining

Now for the shipping boot question. The only real way to tell on the sizes
of those sort of shipping boots before you buy them is to measure your horse
from the ground at the back of the hind leg up to the point of his hock.
The customer service people should be able to take that same measurement on
the boot and see if the number is similar. I've never heard of anybody
putting shipping boots over the top of properly applied "Pony Club style"
shipping wraps but I would imagine that they wouldn't fit too well. If you
are up to doing the proper shipping wraps, you might just want to add a hock
boot that will strap on separately above the wrap. Shipping-style hock
boots are rather hard to find these days but a neoprene hock boot should do
the trick.

For future reference, cob size refers to a small horse/large pony, which is
just what your Morgan is, so cob sizes should fit him well.

Stay protected,
Stormy

***************************************

Hi Stormy,

I just replaced my old boots with a new pair of Ariats and the calf is
really tight. Not painfully so, but tight enough that they're really hard
to get on and off. I know there are tricks to make it easier, but I haven't
had to use them so I don't know what exactly they involve. Regional SJ is
coming up and I'd like to get it resolved before then so I don't give any of
my teammates a black eye trying to get them off. Any suggestions you have
are helpful.

Thanks again!
Jessie, C1, Carbon River Pony Club, Northwest Region

Hi Jessie,

The first choice I would recommend to get your boot calves stretched is to
just drop them off at any shoe store and they will more than likely be able
to stretch them just enough to make them easy to get on and off. Well,
maybe not a Payless Shoe Store or K-mart, but the old-fashioned shoe stores
that just sell shoes and have knowledgeable staff. While you're there, you
might be able to get them to stretch the boots for free if you give them a
few stirrup leathers to repair the stitching on!

If you'd like the do-it-yourself method, they make boot/shoe stretch liquid
and aerosol spray that you spray on the leather (the inside I'd imagine)
that will soften the leather enough to let you stretch it more easily either
with a stretcher (similar to an expandable boot tree) or just by wearing the
boots. The same full-service shoe store will probably sell the
liquid/aerosol. Fiebings makes the boot stretch aerosol that is available
through Dover Saddlery. The link for it is:
http://www.doversaddlery.com/product.asp?pn=X1-3715&sid=SHOPNG&EID=X1832001&
CATALOG_CODE=1X832&bhcd2=1143525508

Stretch it out,
Stormy

********************************************

Hi Stormy,

My girls both ride in Wintec saddles and have the Wintec synthetic leathers.
I know they are supposed to be able demonstrate adjusting their stirrups
while mounted. It is almost impossible to do that with the Wintec leathers.
The synthetic material just doesn't slide through the metal stirrup bar. I
was planning to go buy them some leather leathers for the rating but my
concern is that the leather leathers seem to slip off the Wintec stirrup bar
really easily. In fact when another club member had her Wintec with leather
leathers she had one slide off when she was going over a jump and she fell
off breaking her arm. So I was down at Stateline tack today and almost
bought the least expensive leathers they had (almost $50 a pair) but
hesitated because of safety concerns. Any suggestions?? I don't know if
they can explain how they would do it or if they actually have to
demonstrate it. I probably have some old leathers around from my saddle I
can see if they will fit and maybe they could just put those on for that
part of the rating. I just don't want to put them in an unsafe situation.

What do you think?
Laurie Pringle, Sierra Gold Pony Club parent, Sierra Pacific Region

Hi Laurie,

If theyıre riding with synthetic leathers then they should be able to adjust
those correctly while mounted. Iıd suggest bringing the saddles into the
house and propping them on a sturdy box, couch arm, saddle stand, or
something like that so the girls can sit in them and practice adjusting the
synthetic leathers until they can do it easily. Itıs more difficult with
the synthetic ones but itıs certainly not impossible, it will just take a
few more hours or days worth of practice. And think of the muscles and
dexterity they will develop!

Wintecs with undamaged stirrup bars shouldnıt be any more prone to good
quality, thick stirrup leathers sliding off than a regular stirrup bar in an
³open² position. In fact, if anything, they should be less prone to having
the stirrup leather slip out because of the curve of the bar as opposed to a
straight bar on other saddles. The fact that the accident happened may have
had to do with the rider's leg slipping back into a position that should
have warranted the stirrup leather to come free as it was designed to do, or
that the stirrup bar was bent into a position that didn't hold the leather
as well, not that it was leather instead of synthetic. I do know that
Wintecs probably won't hold up as well using leather stirrup leathers.
Supposedly the oils in the leather aren't good for the synthetic Wintec
materials.

Get practicing,
Stormy

********************************************

Hi Stormy

A question for the "Horse Management Goddess" - we are having problems
locating Betadine Scrub - antibiotic scrub. We have the solution in the
rally kits, but were told that's the wrong product. Another mom said that
she's having a very difficult time locating it and none of our local stores
seem to carry any antibiotic scrubs. Is there another product we can use?

April Smith, DC, Northern Mines Pony Club, vice RS, Sierra Pacific Region

Hi April,

You could get some from the vet (make sure the label has a current
expiration date), or the team can make a scrub out of the solution you
already have (add enough dish soap to make it a bit sudsy) and then label it
as such. It can be any sort of scrub that says ³antimicrobial scrub² or
³antibacterial scrub². There is also a Novalsan scrub and Hibiclens that
work just as well.

Keep it clean,
Stormy

********************************************

Stormy,

At Games Rally my daughter's team was marked down for not having the proper
material for stable wraps. Could you please tell me exactly what HM is
looking for? I figured you could use something like a polo wrap but smaller.
Can you tell me exactly what they are called and where I can get them.
My daughter is going to the Dressage Rally this weekend and I want to make
sure our equipment is up to date.

Thanks
Karie Hall, Sierra Gold Pony Club parent, Sierra Pacific Region

Hi Karie,

Horse management judges will be looking for proper padding and wrap material
for a stable/standing bandage (or multiple sets to fit all horses on the
team if the mounts are of varied sizes). This would be the same padding and
material that was acceptable for D3 and C2-HA ratings. The padding can be
appropriate sized ³pillow wraps², ³no bows², or sheet cotton with about 5-6
layers. The wrap material can be flannel, ³standing wraps² (stretchy ponte
polyester), or track wraps (knit cotton material). Polo wraps arenıt
acceptable for this use. Check your D manual for other ideas of what to use
for stable/standing wraps. Also, you can read all about how to make the
wraps and what is acceptable in the May 2003 Horse Management Newsletter
available here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2

Keep it wrapped,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! How Your Horse Wants You to Ride:
Starting Out, Starting Over by Gincy Self Bucklin
*******************************************************************

How Your Horse Wants You to Ride: Starting Out, Starting Over
by Gincy Self Bucklin

I was browsing Amazon.com's virtual book shelves and came across this very
highly rated book that looks to be a great find for adults who are just
starting out with horses, or who are starting over after some time out of
the saddle.

With 11 out of 11 reviewers giving it the highest marks, you probably won't
go wrong!

Here are a few of the reviews:

This book is one of the best "buys" I have made in that the information is
so minutely expressed in detail and the value page for page is incredible.
This is a reference book; not all are, some you read and say "Oh, OK, got
that" and put it on the shelf or pass it on..this book you know you will
keep to refer back to for that niggling little point about that annoying
thing you just can't figure out about the ride/ lesson. Not the best title,
though I am a big advocate of riding in harmony ( and I GET that this all
leads to that ), it misleads slightly in that what you are really getting is
much, much more than just what the horse wants; you are getting almost
overload information on yourself (not a one sit read). Just a few dated
personal references strewn about, could have more photos, but not a real
fault because if you can read ( ! ), and want a lot for the investment, this
book is loaded with text and all of it valuable info. I have slightly
better, lighter reads, easier to digest, but again, the info is so vast
here, details so good, it is just worth every penny if that is really what
you want. LOVE that it is hardbound as it WILL be around on my shelf a LONG
time. Not the only book you should get, but worth it for sure.

***********************************************

Rarely do "how to" books come along that not only tell a person what to do
but also why it works to do it that way. How Your Horse Wants You To Ride is
one of those rare books.

Bucklin not only provides step-by-step methods for developing and enhancing
riding and horsemanship skills, but clearly and engagingly explains why
those steps work. Her explanations and instructions are easy to read and
understand, and photos and illustrations provide detail. All that's needed
for success is a willingness to learn. If a rider cares to become more than
just a passenger on a horse's back, this is the book to have.

With over 400 illustrated pages, small font and pithy writing, this text
quality book is the gold standard for the student of horse/human
relationships. Recommended additional reading: Bucklin's companion book,
What Your Horse Wants You to Know.

**********************************************

There are some things that good professional trainers and riders do without
thinking, and sometimes these things get lost when they train the rest of us
to ride.

This book breaks down learning to ride into simple steps starting with the
very basic beginnings of introducing yourself to the horse and moving on to
learning to use and utilize all the basic aids for riding. (Actually, she
starts at the immediate beginning by telling us how to use the book, and
then goes on with specific horse-related exercises.)The illustrations are
clear and well placed. They are immediately useful with the text. There are
exercises to do at home as well as on the horse.

Somehow Gincy makes all of this entertaining as well as making you feel as
confident that you can do all of this if you are willing to take the time.
For more advanced riders, you can quickly move through the book to find the
details you need to work on for whatever problems in riding that are coming
up for you and your horse.

An excellent book for riders. Also an excellent book for trainers as Gincy
suggests a more useful progression to create a skilled and confident rider
and a relaxed and happy horse.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

http://www.meredithmanor.com/

Meredith Manor is an accredited post-secondary school in West Virginia that
trains people for careers in the horse industry. Their website has a
fantastic log of articles. Click on "Features" and then "Feature Articles"
for some fantastic training and philosophical essays. All posted on the web
for free!

********************************************************************
Featured rule: USPC Statement on the Use of Safety Vests
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 13 section 6: USPC Statement on the Use
of Safety Vests

The debate over the use of riding vests/body protectors continues throughout
the equestrian world and in Pony Club as well. USPC RECOMMENDS the use of a
properly fitted riding body protector.

USPC expects regions and clubs to ALLOW Pony Club members to wear a riding
vest. Currently, there is no conclusive medical evidence that riding vests
will necessarily prevent injuries. We have received expert medical opinions
that riding vests will not prevent or abate many forms of spinal,
neurological, or orthopedic injuries. Additionally, the use of riding vests
MAY contribute to heat exhaustion and distress in excessive temperatures.
It is also possible that an improperly worn or fitted riding vest may impair
a rider's mobility and/or vision.

USPC cautions its Regions and Clubs that they MAY NOT require or mandate the
use of a riding vest (except during a USEA-sanctioned Eventing competition
where they MUST be worn during the cross-country phase).

USPC believes that the decision of wearing a riding vest, and in what
situations it should be worn in order to achieve any benefit it may provide,
must be the decision of each individual rider and his/her parent or legal
guardian.

********************************************************************
Horsey humor: Murphy's Horse and Mule Laws
********************************************************************

1. If you do a thorough check of your trailer before hauling, your truck
will break down.

2. There is no such thing as a sterile barn cat.

3. No one ever notices how you ride until you fall off.

4. The least useful horse in your barn will eat the most, require shoes
every four weeks, and need the vet at least once a month.

5. A horse's misbehavior will be in direct proportion to the number of
people who are watching.

6. Tack you hate never wears out; blankets you hate cannot be destroyed;
horses you hate cannot be sold and will outlive you.

7. Clipper blades will become dull only when the horse is half finished.
Clipper motors will quit only when you have the horse's head left to trim.

8. If you're wondering if you left the water on in the barn, you did. If
you're wondering if you latched the pasture gate, you didn't.

9. One horse isn't enough; two is too many.

10. If you approach within 50 feet of the barn in your "street clothes," you
will get dirty.

11. You can't push a horse on a lunge line.

12. If a horse is advertised as "under $5000" you can bet he isn't $2500.

13. The number of horses you own increases according to the number of stalls
in your barn.

14. An uncomplicated horse can be ruined with enough schooling.

15. You can't run a barn without bailing twine.

16. Hoof picks migrate.

17. Wind velocity increases in proportion to how well your hat fits.

18. There is no such thing as the "right feed."

19. If you fall off, you will land on the site of your most recent injury.

20. If you're winning, quit.


Contributed by Carter Bass, Virginia
From: http://www.equerry.com/html/fun/eq_humor.htm

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.