HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
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Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Saddle balance
2) Recommended products and services: Cheaper cooling vests
3) Rally and rating tips: old toothbrushes
4) Questions and answers: emergency dismounts, bucket straps, bits for
greenies, and some links
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Animals in Translation by Temple
Grandin
6) Fun and educational websites: horses in government, NFRA
7) Featured rule: Methods of horse/mount presentation
8) Horsey Humor: A letter from your horse
9) Free item exchange

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Feature: Saddle balance
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by Stormy May

The core of good riding comes from a secure basic balanced position on
horseback. Once a rider's body has been trained to maintain basic balanced
position, she will be able to maintain it regardless of how the saddle is
balanced. When a rider is just learning to maintain basic balanced
position, the way her saddle is balanced can make all the difference between
easily training her body and years of struggle.

In the simplest terms, basic balanced position for work on the flat
(dressage) means that viewed from the side, the rider's ears, shoulders,
hips, and heels all stack up in one line perpendicular to the ground. The
most common fault of beginner riders (and many advanced ones too) is that
their legs are too far ahead of them, in what is called a "chair seat".
This is especially common with riders who use jumping or all purpose saddles
for learning flatwork. In my experience, the two main causes of the chair
seat are; the rider's overuse of the stirrups and incorrect saddle balance.
Too much weight in the stirrup irons will cause the rider's leg to swing
forward like a pendulum. To see if this might be a cause, have the rider
lighten their feet in the stirrups until they are barely touching the
stirrup pads. If the leg then comes back to the proper place underneath the
hips at a trot, have the rider spend more time working without stirrups.
The second cause occurs when the saddle's stirrup bars and seat are
positioned incorrectly for that particular horse's back and rider's
conformation.

To check a saddle for proper balance, put it on the horse and note where the
deepest part of the seat is. If you're having trouble visualizing it, roll
a pen or a pencil between the pommel and the cantle until it comes to rest
at the lowest point of the seat as viewed from the side. From that point,
draw an imaginary line perpendicular to the ground. Next, check where the
stirrups naturally hang from the stirrup bar. Measure or estimate the
number of inches between the line that the stirrup leathers make and the
line that you visualized running down from the deepest part of the saddle's
seat. If this distance is significantly longer than the distance between
the ball of the rider's foot and the middle of their heel, then the saddle
is not well balanced for flatwork. Larger riders can get away with more of
a variation because they have the strength to bring their legs underneath
them regardless of where the stirrups hang. The smaller and younger a rider
is, the more difficult it will be for her to properly bring her legs into a
basic balanced position with an improperly balanced saddle.

If the saddle is just slightly out of balance to the rear (the distance from
the lowest part of the seat to the stirrup leathers is too long), sometimes
adding a riser pad to the back of the saddle will move the deepest part of
the seat forward in better alignment with the stirrups. If you're going to
try this, make sure the saddle isn't already too tight on the horse's
withers, because it will only make it more so. If the distance between the
stirrups and the deepest part of the seat is shorter than the distance
between the ball of the rider's foot and the middle of their heel, then the
saddle is balanced too far to the front. Sometimes adding a wither pad will
help achieve better balance. Again, make sure that the saddle is still
comfortable to the horse after making these changes.

For jumping, since a rider is mostly in a light seat or 2-point position,
the stirrup bars will need to be further forward in relation to the deepest
part of the saddle. The amount of difference will depend on the rider's
level. The most advanced riders tend to prefer saddles with very forward
stirrup bars and knee rolls so they can ride in balance with short stirrups.

I hope this helps demystify saddle balance and how it relates to achieving
the basic balanced position.

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Recommended products and services: Cheaper cooling vests
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Those of you who see me over the summer know that I rely on my cooling vest
when the temperatures soar. They work extremely well in climates with dry
heat. Up until now, their only drawback was the initial expense. Now I
found a way around it and wanted to share it with everyone. They sell what
appears to be the exact same vest to motorcycle riders for only $29.95!!!
Even though it's cooling off now, I'd suggest stocking up on at least two of
these to get you through the next few years. Why two? Because if you lend
one to a family member or friend, you probably won't get it back.

Here's the link:

http://store.mm411.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=product&theParentId=178&
id=848

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Rally and rating tips: old toothbrushes
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Ever get the comment during formal inspections that you missed the dust in
the cracks of your saddle stitching? An easy way to make sure you get every
last crevice is to enlist the help of an old toothbrush. Older toothbrushes
actually will work better than new ones because their splayed bristles will
reach in all directions and be soft enough to not scratch the leather. You
can use them with just plain water, or rubbed in a little bit of saddle soap
for a deeper clean. Make sure to follow with a light brushing of plain
water to get the residue out.

I haven't tried the following myself, but I bet old electric toothbrushes
might be an easy way to remove tough jockeys (those greasy dark blobs that
seem to accumulate on the saddle flap under the stirrup leathers). Just
don't go crazy with it and remove your leather's finish.

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Questions and answers
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Hi Stormy,

At our mounted meeting my girls were in a group of mixed ability. They were
the only D3's with a strong D2 and a low, questionable D2. The instructor
spent over 1/2 an hour practicing emergency dismounts. She made them
dismount from one side....then the other side....then mount from one
side....then mount from the other side. I question and the girls questioned
whether or not it was being taught correctly. I know my girls know the
correct way because they were checked off on it for their ratings. They
were taught that if there is a horse in the arena that is acting up and they
need to dismount, that they should take the reins over the horses head to
make sure they have control of their horse in case it starts acting up.
They've been taught that if they need to do an emergency dismount because
their horse is acting up they should grab the reins by the bit until they
have control. Then they can either remount or take the reins over. This
instructor was telling them they are supposed to grab the reins on each side
of the horses neck so they can control the horse. Well that works fine if
you have a small pony, but if you have a full size horse that's not always
possible. If the horse throws his neck up the kid could get hurt.

Via the internet from a Pony Club mom

Hi,

The way Pony Club teaches the emergency dismount is to take both feet out of
the stirrups, put both hands on the withers, lean forward and swing your
legs over and off, landing so that you are facing the same direction as the
horse, with your knees bent and holding the reins in one hand (the one
closer to the horse). Eventually you need to be able to do it at the trot
and canter, so it's a good idea to practice landing in a walk or run to keep
your balance. Even though it's taught as an "emergency dismount" this is
the same way they teach the regular dismount, with the exception being that
a regular dismount is done at a halt and after dismounting the reins are
taken over the head to lead the pony. One should never dismount with the
left foot still in the stirrup in case the horse spooks during the dismount.
The exception would be if you have physical problems that prevent you from
dismounting with both feet out of the stirrups, in which case make sure you
have a very quiet horse and perhaps dismount to a solid object a few feet
off the ground if possible.

The way your girls were taught to dismount and take the reins over the head
in case of a loose horse or other disturbance isn't really an emergency
dismount because they have control of their horse. Yes, it's a good idea
for them to take the reins over the horse's head for better control while
they're waiting to get back on in that situation. When they themselves are
getting run away with, or start falling off and decide to do an emergency
dismount, the horse will usually have his own agenda and I'd strongly
suggest not to try taking the reins over the head. If the rider falls or
otherwise lets go after the dismount and she had taken the reins over the
head, now the horse will be running loose with his reins dragging around his
front feet. If the reins are still over the head, at least they are
somewhat out of harm's way. I feel it is better to try to hold the near
rein in the right hand after a true emergency dismount. If there is any
chance of holding on to the horse, it will be done by bending the horse's
neck and getting him to turn around the rider so he will have to slow down
and balance himself, not by holding both reins and trying to pull back from
the ground.

There is some value in teaching the rider to mount and dismount (emergency
or otherwise) from both sides. It is a requirement to demonstrate this in
the C3 test. A practical application is if by chance you are trail riding
and the terrain makes it unsafe to mount from the near side. I also know a
mother and daughter who ride the same horse and the mother always mounts
from the near side while the daughter mounts from the off side. They
explained to me that it helps to keep their stirrup leathers evenly
stretched.

See you on the off side,
Stormy

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Hi Stormy,

I have a question about bucket straps - I saw several people at
Championships West using the new Bucket Straps with snaps on the end - they
have a loop that you run through the bar's (or wire, or over a rail) then
pull the snap through the loop and hang your bucket - these are made out of
nylon - I would love to use these if they are legal for Pony Club
activities.  Since I saw them at Championships I am thinking they are
legal.  If they are legal for stall use - could they be used on the trailer
to hang buckets & hay nets?? They are short straps and I don't see how a
horse could get in trouble with it.  What's your take on these??

Happy Trails

Joan Starrett, DC Hoofbeats Pony Club

Hi Joan,

The only written requirement for hanging buckets at Pony Club rallies is
that, ³Flat backed buckets require only one point of attachment (e.g., one
screw-eye) to wall with one snap-hook or hanger. Round buckets require two
points of attachment (e.g., 2 screw-eyes/2 snaps) to the wall to secure
them.² For hay nets, the rule reads, ³Hay nets, when used, must be securely
fastened, properly tied, and hung high enough so even when empty, they do
not hang below the mountıs point of shoulder. It is recommended that hay
nets be cotton.² Surprisingly enough, there is nothing about the hanging
height of buckets or any requirement that buckets or hay nets have
³breakaway capability². In my experience, I definitely want buckets to
have breakaway capability. Not so weak that a horseıs nosing will cause the
bucket to fall, but not so strong that if a horse rears and gets his leg on
it, it wonıt break. I have found double ended snaps (or the equivalent) to
be the perfect balance of strength and breakability with horses. A cheaper
alternative is a few rounds of hemp/jute twine although then it becomes
difficult to remove the bucket for cleaning. Most of the bucket straps Iıve
seen that youıre describing, have nylon for attaching to the pipe or trailer
tie, and then some sort of breakable snap to hook the bucket to. These I
have always happily approved of for safe use both in Pony Club and in the
real world. Ones that I donıt approve of personally, are ones that either
have tough bull snaps that are designed not to break, or ones that are
entirely nylon and tie like dog collars (or nylon halters) and donıt have
enough breakability for my taste. Iıve found that even nylon hay nets will
break if a horse gets a foot caught in them so Iım not as concerned about
making sure they have extra breakability. Hay bags typically come with
small, breakable snaps to hang them by, so I consider them quite safe to
use.

So, the short answer is that yes, they are legal for Pony Club and there is
no breakability requirement for buckets or hay nets.

Break away!
Stormy

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Dear Stormy,

I have just gotten a new horse, he is only four years old and already 16
hands. He knows I'm only little and not strong enough to stop him. He is
only in a snaffle bit because he is being trained for dressage but he keeps
taking of with me. He also he runs on the forehand and take hold of the bit.
Would you have any alternatives of what bit to put him in or what to do?

Thanks Hollie, via the internet

Hi Hollie,

I have a couple of questions for you. First of all, are you doing the
horseıs training yourself and secondly, how much experience have you had
training green horses? It sounds like your question is more of a training
one rather than a bitting one. Young horses often seem like they have
³hard² mouths and need stronger bits, but actually itıs just that they donıt
yet understand what the cues mean. I would suggest working with a trainer
who you feel comfortable working with. If you are already working with a
trainer and are having trouble when youıre on your own, just stick to a
small enclosed area (like a round pen) where you can help refine your
balance and aids and you wonıt have the danger of your horse being able to
bolt off. If you need anything stronger than a mild snaffle bit with a
young horse, it means that some training has been skipped and needs to be
filled in.

Stay safe,
Stormy

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Hey Stormy,

I was wondering if you could give me the measurements for making my own
shipping wraps.

Kelly Dorricott, C2, Deer Creek Pony Club

Hi Kelly,

Hereıs the link where I tell all about how to make shipping and standing
wraps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2

Happy shopping,
Stormy

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Stormy,

I was unable to open the link for your C3 record book recommendations on the
Sierra Pacific website so I was wondering if you could e-mail me a copy.
Thanks a bundle.

Cassie Lewis, C2, Deer Creek Pony Club

Hi Cassie,

Here's a link to the newsletter with the updated record book checklist. The
checklist is more thorough than is needed for most ratings, but for C3 and
higher ratings, it should pass or exceed standards.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/22

Take note,
Stormy

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Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! Animals in Translation
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Animals in Translation, by Temple Grandin

Temple was a person I'd been hearing about for years, an autistic lady who
designs humane cattle chutes for slaughterhouses. I'd been told that she
was able to see things from the animals' perspective. When I heard about
the book I was very interested to learn more about what she sees.

Temple relates the workings of an autistic person's brain to the way animals
perceive the world, backing it all up with hard science. I was taking notes
on nearly every page. The biggest insight I got from the book was how
humans and animals have evolved together and have learned to rely on each
other in order to fully experience life. What animals excel in, such as
emotional perception, humans tend to be weak in, while animals lack more
frontal lobe brain activity which humans are strong in. We each have gifts
to share with the other.

I highly recommend this book to anyone interested in deeper insight into the
workings of our minds and the minds of animals.

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Fun and educational websites
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Any budding activists out there? The American Horse Council is the horse
community's voice in Washington D.C..

The Mission of the American Horse Council:
To promote and protect the equine industry by representing its interests in
Congress and in federal regulatory agencies on national issues of
importance; To unify the equine industry by informing industry members of
regulations and pending legislation, and by serving as a forum for all
member organizations and individuals; and To advise and inform government
and the industry itself of the equine industryıs important role in the
United States economy.

Might be an interesting place to start some school government reports!

http://www.horsecouncil.org/

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http://www.geocities.com/cirrus_kid/NFRA.html

Need a good laugh? Check out this National Fjord Racing Association
website.

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Featured rule: Methods of Horse/Mount Presentation
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2002 Horse Management Handbook page 55 section E: Methods of Horse/Mount
Presentation (for jog-outs)

The reins should be held with the bight (slack) in the left hand with the
right hand about one foot below the bit allowing full freedom of the mount's
head. The mount should be walked to the Inspection Panel and halted until
told to trot forward. The mount should be trotted freely forward in a
straight line as designated by the Inspection Panel. The mount should be
turned away from the handler. Appropriate, safe and neat attire (no jeans)
is recommended and must include ASTM/SEI riding helmet and proper footwear.
Mounts should be kept moving in the holding area if a second inspection is
required.

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Horsey humor: A letter from your horse
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A letter from your horse (original version):

When you are tense, let me teach you to relax.
When you are short tempered, let me teach you to be patient.
When you are short sighted, let me teach you to see.
When you are quick to react, let me teach you to be.
When you are angry, let me teach you to be serene.
When you feel superior, let me teach you to be respectful.
When you are self absorbed, let me teach you to think of greater things.
When you are arrogant, let me teach you humility.
When you are lonely, let me be your companion.
When you are tired, let me carry the load.
When you need to learn, let me teach you.
After all, I am your horse.

And now, the REAL DEAL.....

When you are tense, let me teach you that there are lions in them thar woods
and we need to leave NOW!
When you are short tempered, let me teach you to slog around the pasture for
an hour before you can catch me.
When you are short sighted, let me teach you to figure out where, exactly,
in the 40 acres I am hiding.
When you are quick to react, let me teach you that herbivores kick much
faster & harder than omnivores.
When you are angry, let me teach you how well I can stand on my hind feet
because I don't feel like cantering on my right lead today.
When you are worried, let me entertain you with my mystery lameness.
When you feel superior, let me teach you that, mostly, you are the maid
service.
When you are self absorbed, let me teach you to PAY ATTENTION. Remember? I
told you about those lions in them thar woods?
When you are arrogant, let me teach you what 1200 lbs. Of "YAHOO LETS GO!"
can do when suitably inspired.
When you are lonely, let me be your companion. Let's do lunch.. Also,
breakfast, snack and dinner.
When you are tired, don't forget the 600lbs.of grain that needs to be
unloaded.
When you are feeling financially secure, let me teach you the meaning of
"Veterinary Services".
When you want to learn, hang around, bud. I'll learn ya.
Sincerely,
Your Horse

From: http://www.qnet.com/~sixwranch/humor.htm

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Free item exchange
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**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

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Call for submissions
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Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.