HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
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Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: How much do you know about your horse's diet?
2) Notes on the mineral selenium
3) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Beyond the Hay Days
4) Fun and educational websites: books online, nutrition articles, and art
5) Featured rule: Hay at rallies
6) Horsey Humor: You know you're a real horseperson when...
7) Free item exchange

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Feature: How much do you know about your horse's diet?
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by Stormy May

Most horse owners are mystified by trying to decide what their horse should
be eating.  Besides the debate over what hays are best, there are enough
equine grains and other supplements on the market to feed a small (or medium
sized!) country.  Analyzing your horse's ration scientifically might seem
like a smart choice but even then, it seems that the more you read about it
the less you know what to believe.

For those of you who have the USPC B/HA/A manual, there is a worksheet that
shows how to balance a ration.  Unless you're a math whiz it might take you
quite a while to figure out.  What is useful in the manual is the several
pages of nutritional value charts.  If you don't have the manual, I'll guide
you to some places where you can find these values online.

The BEST online resource I've seen for figuring out equine rations is on the
Purdue University Cooperative Extension website at:

http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/AS/AS-429.html

I'm going to walk you through their method.  Please make sure you visit the
webpage above either before you finish reading this article or before you
sit down to calculate your own horse's ration.

Let's start with figuring out what your horse needs.  Please keep in mind
that for all these numbers to follow, they are averages.  This isn't rocket
science, use the numbers as guidelines not absolutes.  Even more important
than the numbers are the questions: is your horse currently a good weight?,
is s/he healthy?, is there at least a bit of shine to the coat?, does s/he
have enough energy to do the work asked?

So, on to our theoretical horse:

Salsa is a 12 year old, 1,000 lb TB/QH cross gelding in moderate work.  He
is in good condition on his current diet of orchard grass and rye grass hays
and is a relatively easy keeper.  He lives in a large corral with 4 other
horses (no grass growing) so the amounts he eats we'll calculate as one
fifth of what all 5 horses eat.

Right now, Salsa receives approximately 10 pounds of orchard grass hay in
the morning, 8 pounds of ryegrass hay for lunch, and 10 pounds of orchard
grass hay in the evening which totals out to:

20 lbs orchard grass hay per day
8 lbs ryegrass hay per day

A) Horse's daily requirements (from Tables 1 and 2 on the Purdue webpage)
(since they give amounts for 880lb and 1,100lb horses and Salsa is 1,000lbs,
I'm going to go back to what I learned in my junior high math class and use
ratios to figure out what the numbers should be for Salsa.  If you were
never very good in math, it will get you close enough to just take an
average between the 880lb numbers and the 1,100lb numbers.)

Salsa needs
Digestible Energy:  22.4 Mcal per day
Crude Protein: 1.97 pounds per day
Calcium: 27 grams per day
Phosphorus: 19 grams per day
Vitamin A 1000: 20.0 IU's (International Units) per day

B) List ration ingredients and pounds of each in the appropriate columns.

You can start out by using the numbers in their charts but if you'd like to
get even more precise, you can send your own feed in to get analyzed.
Here's a website that contains a list of labs that will test feed:

http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:3QAsZ4Wf7dkJ:www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_a/A-
327.pdf+nirs+testing&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

From the Purdue webpage table 4: Late bloom orchard grass
Digestible Energy: .78 Mcal/lb
Crude Protein: .076 lb/lb
Calcium: 1.09 g/lb
Phosphorus:  1.22 g/lb
Vitamin A: 3.29 IU/lb

Since there isn't a listing for ryegrass hay I had to do a lot of digging
and finally found what I was looking for on page 62 of the "Nutritional
Requirements for Horses" book available to read for free online at
www.nap.edu (from their main page, do a search on "horses" and then under
the "Nutritional Requirements for Horses" heading click on "READ Free
Online."

Ryegrass hay

Digestible energy: .71 - .83 Mcal per pound
Crude protein: 8.8 - 10.3 percent
Calcium: .53-.62 percent
Phosphorus: .29-.34 percent
Since there's a range, I'll take a middle average for each value.
Unfortunately it didn't contain a listing for Vitamin A.  Since I know that
Vitamin A is lost the longer the hay is stored, and Vitamin E values can
vary considerably I may consider adding a Vitamin A and E supplement to
Salsa's ration depending on what my totals end up being.

C) Make sure the weight of the ration ingredients do not exceed 2-2.5% of
body weight.  Salsa receives approximately 28 lbs of hay for 1,000 lbs of
body weight so he gets 2.8% of his body weight.  I'm not too concerned about
the number being high since right now Salsa doesn't get any additional
supplements, the number is an estimate between feeding 5 horses, and he's in
good condition and health.

D) To figure out the amount of nutrients Salsa is getting I do the
following:

Orchard Grass Hay
Digestible Energy: 20 lbs x (multiply by) .78 Mcal/lb = 15.6 Mcals
Crude Protein: 20 lbs x .076 lb/lb = 1.52 lbs
Calcium: 20 lbs x 1.09 g/lb = 21.8 grams
Phosphorus: 20 lbs x 1.22 g/lb = 24.4 grams
Vitamin A: 20 lbs x 3.29 IU/lb = 65.8 IU's

Ryegrass Hay
(since the many of the values for the ryegrass hay were in percentages
rather than grams or pounds, we'll have to take a couple of extra steps...)
Digestible Energy: 8 lbs x .77 Mcal/lb = 6.16 Mcals
Crude Protein: 8 lbs x 9.55% (remember 9.55% = .0955) = .764 lbs
Calcium: 8 lbs x .58% = .0464 lbs (if you remember that 16 oz = 1 pound and
1 oz = 28.35 grams then you can convert .0464 lbs to 21.0 grams)
Phosphorus: 8 lbs x .32% = .02 lbs (9.07 grams)

(If he were getting a grain ration, I would add it here after getting
information from the feed tag and calculate it out just like I am doing for
the hays.)

E) Total the amounts of nutrients for the two hays fed:

Digestible Energy: 15.6 Mcals + 6.16 Mcals = 21.76 Mcals
Crude Protein: 1.52 lbs + .764 lbs = 2.284 lbs
Calcium: 21.8 g + 21.0 g = 42.8 g
Phosphorus: 24.4 g + 9.07 g = 33.47 g
Vitamin A: 65.8 IU's + ?? = over 65.8 IU's

F) Compare what Salsa's getting (section E) with what his requirements are
(section A)

Digestible Energy:  Salsa needs 22.4 Mcal per day, he's getting
approximately 21.76 Mcal per day (.64 Mcal deficiency)

Crude Protein: Salsa needs 1.97 pounds per day, he's getting approximately
2.284 lbs per day (.314 pounds excess)

Calcium: Salsa needs 27 grams per day, he's getting 42.8 grams per day (15.8
grams excess)

Phosphorus: Salsa needs 19 grams per day, he's getting 33.47 grams per day
(14.47 grams excess)

Vitamin A: Salsa needs 20.0 IU's per day, he's getting over 65.8 IU's per
day (45.8 IU's excess)

I'm going to take this one step further and calculate the Calcium to
Phosphorus ratio (Ca:P).  Even though Salsa's Calcium and Phosphorus intake
is in excess of his requirements, I know that with these two specific
minerals the most important part is that they are in balance with each
other.  The CA:P ratio should be from 1:1 to 3:1.  If I were to feed it in a
ratio that had more phosphorus than calcium, or not meet the minimum
requirements of one or the other it could lead to diseases such as "big head
disease".  If I divide 42.8 grams by 33.47 grams I find that Salsa is
getting a 1.27:1 ratio of calcium to phosphorus which is in an acceptable
range.  If your horse gets a lot of wheat bran (high in phosphorus) be
especially careful of maintaining a good ratio.

G) What this whole analysis tells me is that with the exception of
Digestible Energy, Salsa is getting plenty of what he needs, in the right
proportions.  If I feel like I need to add a little bit more Digestible
Energy (for example if he doesn't seem to have enough energy for the work he
does, if he's losing weight, or if I increase his work load) then I'm going
to look for a supplement that is high in Digestible Energy (Mcals) but
doesn't add much protein, calcium, phosphorus, or Vitamin A.  Also, since
he's already getting more than 2.5% of his body weight in hay, I might look
to reduce his hay as I add this supplement.  I'd have to do the whole feed
analysis over with the changes I'm thinking of making.

As an sample supplement, Purina's Equine Senior's nutrients are:

Digestible Energy: 1.225 Mcal/lb
Crude Protein: 14%
Calcium: .5 - .6%
Phosphorus: .4%
Vitamin A: 3,000 IU/lb

If I were to give Salsa just one pound of Equine Senior per day it would add
1.225 Mcals Digestible Energy (this would more than make up for his .64 Mcal
deficiency).  However, it would also add to the excesses that he has in all
the other areas, especially protein and Vitamin A.  There is probably
another, more cost effective supplement that can add Digestible Energy
without tipping the scales on protein, calcium, phosphorus, or other
vitamins and minerals.

This article is just meant to get you started on the path to balancing your
horse's ration.  What you may be most surprised at is the amount of excess
nutrition your horse is getting in the form of expensive supplements.  The
manufacturers are banking on the fact that most horse owners feed
supplements based on recommendations from friends or reading catalog
descriptions rather than sound nutritional analysis.

If you wish to go further, let the Internet be your playground.  You can
start calculating the approximate amounts of vitamins and minerals your
horse gets (horses should have free access to a trace mineral salt block
which makes the minerals a bit difficult to calculate).  Just remember, not
everything on the Internet should be taken as gospel, use your best
judgment.  See the webpage recommendations below for more great
feeding-related articles.

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Notes on the mineral selenium
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Selenium is a mineral that all horse owners should be aware of.  To
paraphrase some of the following excerpts, too little selenium (less than
.1ppm or .1 mg/kg) and a horse may exhibit signs of tying-up (azoturia) or
other symptoms such as anorexia, emaciation, generalized muscle weakness,
rapid heart rate, and diarrhea, all of which could ultimately lead to death.
Too much selenium (over 5ppm or 5 mg/kg) can lead to "blind staggers" or
"alkali disease" which also may result in death.  Following, are several
excerpts that I found while researching selenium.

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From: http://horse.purinamills.com/bulletins/musthaveminerals.htm

How your horse uses it: The trace mineral selenium works in concert with
vitamin E to scavenge destructive free-radicals and aid in muscle
development.

Where it's found: Most forages contain selenium, but the amounts vary
greatly, depending on the area of the country where the forage was grown.
For example, the soils of Florida, northern California and western Oregon
are low in selenium and produce selenium-deficient crops. In contrast, the
soil in parts of Colorado, Montana, the Dakotas and Wyoming contain toxic
amounts of the mineral.

Dietary requirements: Horses require only about 0.1 parts per million (PPM)
of selenium in the diet. Since soil conditions affect selenium content, it's
wise to have your hay analyzed to see how much it supplies. Supplementation
in conjunction with vitamin E is useful in treating some cases of tying up.

If he doesn't get enough: A selenium-deficient diet results in reproductive
problems, immune deficiencies and, particularly in foals, white muscle
disease, where the muscles become weak and useless.

If he gets too much: Selenium poisoning usually occurs when horses graze on
plants that contain high levels of the mineral. Horses suffering from acute
selenium poisoning--with blood levels of more than 72 PPM--may exhibit
colic-like discomfort, increased heart and respiratory rates and
head-pressing or staggering behavior. Long-term grazing on plants that
contain between 5 and 50 PPM of selenium can lead to chronic toxicity and
associated anemia, lameness, a rough hair coat and brittle, malformed
hooves. Untreated chronic toxicity can be fatal.

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From: http://www.cvm.uiuc.edu/petcolumns/showarticle.cfm?id=181

Many different sources of selenium are available for supplementation, the
most important factor is selecting a source of the proper strength and
selenium content that is available for digestion. Only one consistent source
should be used. A free-choice salt/mineral mix containing selenium is the
safest form of supplementation.

The supplementation rate for selenium is generally 1 mg per horse per day.
Supplementation can go as high as 2 to 3 mg per day without any ill effects.
Doses of 5 mg per day can lead to problems with selenium toxicity.

Clinically, selenium deficient horses will often "tie-up," a degenerative
condition of the muscles also known as rhabdomyolysis. It can affect the
heart muscle, the muscles of respiration, as well as the large muscles of
the back and limbs. It can also cause a decrease in the efficiency of the
immune system, leading to opportunistic infections.

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From:
http://www.neosoft.com/~iaep/pages/nutrition/toxicosis/seleniumtox.html

The condition was called "alkali disease" which in its chronic form resulted
in loss of hair from the tail and mane, abnormal hoof growth, lameness,
anemia, salivation, grinding of the teeth, paralysis and eventual death. An
acute form which can follow consumption of plants with very high levels of
selenium results in a condition know as blind staggers which is
characterized by elevated temperature, labored respiration, a bloody froth
in the mouth and nose, respiratory failure and death.

Most of the early interest in selenium was focused on its role as a toxic
element. However, in 1957 Schwarz and Foltz discovered that it was required
in the diet of animals and it has since been included in a list of twelve
essential trace elements along with chromium, nickel, vanadium, tin, zinc,
iron, copper, iodine, managnese, cobalt, and molybdenum. It is now known
that the areas where it is deficient far exceed those where selenium
toxicity is a problem. Early nutritional studies revealed a relationship
between vitamin E and selenium and for a time it was believed that the
vitamin could replace selenium in the diet. It was later shown that this was
not the case and that some selenium was required irrespective of the level
of vitamin E. Further studies have revealed a complex relationship between
selenium, vitamin E., lipids, sulfur and sulfur containing amino acids.

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From: http://www.ruralheritage.com/vet_clinic/selenium.htm

"Alkali disease," is characterized by hair loss from the mane and tail,
sloughing of hooves, joint erosion, and lameness.

Excessive intake of selenium may result from consuming plant material raised
in areas where the soil contains a high level of selenium. The areas with
high selenium soils are west of the Mississippi River. Prior to the 1930s,
when alkali disease was first proven to be caused by selenium toxicity and
the high selenium areas were identified, many horses and cattle died of the
disease. Dr. Merl Raisbeck of the Department of Veterinary Science at the
University of Wyoming reported that each year before 1930 a vast number of
animal deaths in Wyoming were attributed to alkali disease.

Although the number of cases of selenium toxicosis has greatly decreased
since 1940, toxicity is still reported. During a recent three-year study in
Wyoming Dr. Raisbeck found four substantiated cases of selenium toxicity of
horses due to the ingestion of high selenium forage. A few recent cases have
also been reported in Colorado and Iowa.

Cases of toxicity due to selenium in the water, excessive use of
supplements, or environmental contamination are occasionally reported. The
dangers of excessive selenium cannot be ignored.

Requirement
Selenium was first shown to be a required nutrient for laboratory animals in
the 1950s. Shortly thereafter it was established as a help in preventing
muscular degeneration in farm animals. Prior to 1950 white muscle disease
was common in calves, lambs, and foals raised in areas where the soil is
lacking in selenium. Selenium supplementation and injections have saved the
lives of millions of animals.

Although severe selenium deficiency is usually much more common in young
animals, it may also occur in older animals. Selenium deficiency may impair
reproductive performance and decrease resistance to disease.

In the 1960s researchers discovered that selenium can help prevent tying-up
disease in horses, but does not prevent all cases. Since selenium has been
widely added to horse feeds, the number of tying-up cases that respond to
selenium has been greatly reduced, and tying-up continues to be a problem.

Identifying Deficiency
If you live in an area where the soil is known to be lacking in selenium and
you feed your horses only home grown feeds, you should use selenium
supplementation.

Select a supplement that provides 1 to 3 mg of selenium per day or use a
trace mineral salt that is fortified with selenium. Salt products designed
for horses contain 30 to 90 ppm selenium. You may add the salt to the feed
or offer it free choice.

Free choice feeding of selenized-salt has been widely used for sheep and
cattle because supplementing grazing animals is often difficult. Fewer
studies have been conducted with horses, but salt appears to be a reasonable
source of selenium, particularly for horses that graze. If you use a
commercial grain mixture fortified with selenium, you probably don't need a
supplement.

If you are not sure whether or not your horses are getting enough selenium,
and the horses have muscle problems, selenium may be involved. Your
veterinarian can take a blood sample and have it analyzed for selenium or
glutathione peroxidase, an enzyme that requires selenium.

Selenium is needed for a horse's normal muscle function and health. Three
adages apply: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure‹selenium
supplementation need not be expensive, but if selenium is needed and not
provided, the cost can be great. Use moderation in all things, and good
things come in small packages. The horse needs 1 to 3 mg of selenium per
day, but 50 mg per day may cause toxicosis.

One mg is 0.0000022 lb. Thus you must exercise care when using selenium
supplements. The amount of supplement you add must of course be greater than
one mg, because the selenium in the supplement is diluted with carrier. Read
the label carefully and add adequate but not excessive amounts to keep your
horses healthy.

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From: http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/toxicagents/selenium/selenium.html

Alkali disease is more chronic than blind staggers, often taking years to
manifest itself. It is caused by feeding on plants and grain that have
protein-bound, insoluble selenium. This disease can affect all livestock,
but it is detected mostly in cattle and horses. General symptoms include:
lack of vitality, anemia, emaciation, stiffness of joints, lameness, rough
coat, loss of long hair, and hoof sloughing and deformities. Hoof
deformities are a classic sign of selenium and can cause lameness and severe
pain for the animal; food and water must be provided to the animal, for it
may be hesitant to walk.

The most effective way of preventing selenosis is to remove the animals from
the seleniferous area. Treating the soil with sulfates, thus changing the
S:Se ratio, can sometimes depress Se uptake by accumulator plants. Results
from studies have shown that feeding a higher protein diet may reduce the
toxicity of Se; animals fed the same amount of toxic selenium but fed a
higher protein diet lived for a few more days than those animals fed a low
protein diet. Dilution of high Se feeds with low Se feeds in a mixed ration
will help to prevent toxicity. Recognition of seleniferous plants, proper
land management, and grazing control are all necessary to completely prevent
selenosis.

Deficiency of Se is much more common in the eastern United States where the
soil content of Se is low. There are many different diseases that affect the
different species, all of which will be addressed in the species sections.
There is one disease that is consistent in all livestock species, and that
is Nutritional Muscular Dystrophy, or White Muscle Disease (WMD).
Nutritional muscular dystrophy is caused by the deficiency of Se and/or
vitamin E and S-containing amino acids. The disease is characterized by
degeneration of the skeletal muscles, causing stiff gaits, and other
problems.

The nutrient requirement for horses is 0.10 mg/kg. Nutritional muscular
dystrophy is the known disease that affects horses with Se deficiency.
Similar to sheep, there are three different patterns of NMD that can occur.
The first is acute, with death occurring within 24 hours. The foal's tongue
may be paralyzed, making in unable to suckle. The second case is more common
and is induced by exercise. Older foals are more susceptible to this form;
they show an unsteady gait and general muscle weakness, rapid heart rate
with arrhythmia, and labored breathing. After a few days, it is difficult to
make them stand and they salivate excessively. Mortality from this condition
is only about 30-45%. The third condition affects mostly older animals, and
is the result of chronic Se deficiency. Affected animals show anorexia,
emaciation, generalized muscle weakness, rapid heart rate, and diarrhea.

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From: http://horse.purinamills.com/bulletins/poison/lamenessinducing.html

A number of detrimental effects occur if the diet contains less than 0.1 ppm
(or mg/kg) selenium. However, greater than 5 ppm in the total diet is
harmful and causes chronic selenium poisoning of livestock; greater than 25
to 50 ppm may cause acute selenium poisoning and sudden death due to
pulmonary congestion and edema.

Selenium-rich soils occur in areas of low rainfall, where minimal leaching
of selenium from the soil is likely to occur. In North America this occurs
primarily in the Rocky Mountain and Great Plains regions. In a recent
survey, selenium excess attributable to native plants was reported in only
eight states (California, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, South Dakota,
Utah, and Wyoming). In contrast, in all 50 states except four (Delaware,
Rhode Island, West Virginia, and Wyoming), selenium deficiency, was reported
to be a problem.

Acute selenium poisoning most commonly occurs as a result of the inadvertent
addition of excess selenium to the diet.

More common than the acute is a chronic selenium excess. Traditionally,
chronic selenium excess has been divided into two syndromes referred to as
blind staggers and as alkali disease. Both syndromes are associated with the
chronic ingestion of forage and crop plants that have accumulated 5 to 50
ppm selenium in their dry matter.

Excess selenium consumption results in the substitution of sulfur in keratin
by selenium. This results in defective formation of keratin, the principal
protein present in the hoof and hair. Initially, affected horses lose the
long hair from the mane and tail; it breaks off at the site where excess
selenium is incorporated in the hair shaft. This gives the horse a roached
mane and bobtailed appearance, and is the reason the syndrome has been
referred to as "bob-tail disease." Lameness develops as a result of
inflammation of the coronary band and abnormal hoof wall formation affecting
all feet. Initially, affected horses walk stiff-legged, with tenderness
followed by pronounced lameness. Horizontal rings or ridges that may
progress to full-thickness cracks through the hoof wall causing severe
lameness are characteristic. Some horses may slough the hoof wall entirely.
Chronic selenium excess has also been associated with anemia, liver
cirrhosis, emaciation, and degeneration of heart, bones, and joints in
horses and cattle.

A diagnosis of selenium poisoning is best confirmed by submitting samples of
feeds ingested for analysis and then determining the selenium concentration
in the total diet as described in Chapter 6. A selenium concentration in the
total diet dry matter greater than 5 ppm (5 mg/kg) should be considered
potentially toxic. A serum selenium concentration above the normal of 0.09
to 0.3 ppm is suggestive of chronic selenium excess, although 1 to 4 ppm is
typically present, whereas serum levels up to 25 ppm have been reported in
acute poisoning. Excess selenium in liver or kidney is also indicative of
selenium excess.

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Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!: Beyond the Hay Days by Rex A. Ewing
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Beyond the Hay Days: Refreshingly Simple Horse Nutrition, Second edition
by Rex A. Ewing

A reviewer from the Amazon.com website writes:
This is an excellent book on horse nutrition. It makes nutrition easy to
understand and information is presented in an easy to read format. Nutrition
concepts (such as protein, fat, carbohydrates, ATP, enzymes, minerals,
vitamins, etc.) and how they are metabolized by the horse are explained.
Also included is a chapter dedicated to MSM, DMG, Chondroitin Sulfates,
Glucosamine, and Bromelain. The book details how much protein, fat,
vitamins, minerals, etc. your type of horse needs (broken down into
maintenance horse, pregnancy, lactating, growing, performance, or stallion)
and how your horse's health, care and general condition contribute to his
ability to absorb these nutrients. Each chapter includes charts highlighting
the information presented. Additionally, at the end of the book are charts
and formulas to help you determine exactly how much your horse needs of each
nutrient and how much he is currently receiving in his diet. They were very
easy to use, and this will allow you to see where his diet is deficient.
This is a great book for the horse owner who is interested in horse
nutrition, wants to optimize what he is feeding his horse, and is curious as
to the benefits (or not) of all those supplements on the market.

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Fun and educational websites
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The National Academies Press, read more than 3,000 books online free
including the "Nutrient Requirements of Horses, Fifth Revised Edition"

http://www.nap.edu/ search from this page for "horses"  and then when you
find the "Nutrient Requirements of Horses, Fifth Revised Edition" click on
"READ Free Online".

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http://horse.purinamills.com/bulletins/musthaveminerals.htm

A very simple, easy to understand article about the horse's "Must-Have"
minerals, reprinted from Equus magazine.  Includes calcium, iron,
phosphorus, selenium, sodium chloride (table salt), cobalt, copper, iodine,
magnesium, manganese, potassium, sulfur, and zinc.  This is HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED for anyone going for their C3, B, or HA ratings.

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http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/horse/g1403.htm

Great webpage about reading feed tags

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http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/horse/406-473/406-473.html

Another webpage about balancing rations, from the Virginia Cooperative
Extension

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http://www.galeriepleinaire.com/prints.html

Beautiful horse prints

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Featured rule: Hay rations at rallies
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2002 Horse Management Handbook page 30 section 13:D :  Hay

Hay rations need to be formulated by weight.  The feed chart must indicate
what amount, by weight, of hay is fed each morning and evening.
Prepackaging of hay is not encouraged or recommended but is allowed.  The
feed chart must indicate the ration of hay and whether it is free choice or
not.

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Horsey humor: You Know Your A Real Horse Person When...
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you change lanes while driving and your "inside" leg moves to apply
pressure.    

you click to your dog.  

you click to your friends.    

your daughter's birth announcement reads: "it's a filly!"    

you've taught your dog to longe.    

there is at least one saddle in your living room.    

you wonder if Hoofmaker doubles as a moisturizer. 

while jogging, your "inside" leg extends farther to help you balance.    

you think the 5th fairway would make a great galloping lane. 

while walking your dog, you hold the leash like a rein.

you post over speed bumbs.      

you half-halt your dog while out walking.      

you explain to your child's pediatrician that you knew the child was sick
because he was off his feed.   

you show up in city clothes dressed for appointments and when you get there
people reach over the breakfast table to pick alfalfa out of your hair.

you're trying to get by a co-worker in a restricted space and instead of
saying "excuse me" to him/her, you cluck at them instead.

no one wants to ride in your car because they'll get sweet feed and hay in
their socks and purses...but that's ok because then you'd have to rearrange
all the tack to make room for them, anyway!

your spouse does something nice for you and you say "good boy" or "atta
girl" and pat him/her on the neck.

your boyfriend complains that you love your horse more then you love him and
you answer: "And your point is?"

you are totally grossed out by human hair in the sink or tub, but don't mind
horse hair in your washer, on your clothes, in your food.

you consider a pristine golf course as a waste of good pasture land.

you buy duct tape by the case, and carry rolls in your pocketbook, your
briefcase, and the console of your car.

you plan your pregnancy around the show season so you can send your horse to
your dressage instructor for training during the eighth and ninth months.

you dress like a lawyer on weekdays and someone who needs a lawyer on your
days off.

you pull a $17,000 horse trailer with a $1,700 pickup truck.

you seriously consider trading your 1996 Buick for a 1988 Diesel crewcab
dually pickup truck, even swap.

you realize that finding a horse shoe truly is lucky because you've saved
ten bucks.

your trying to get by a co-worker in a restricted space and instead of
saying "excuse me" to him/her, you cluck at them instead.

you say "whoa" to the dog.

you say "whoa" to your kids.

you say "whoa" to your truck.

your spouse brings the new saddle to bed so it can be worked on it while
watching TV.

you see the vet more than you see your child's pediatrician.

your horse gets new shoes more often than you.

you put a gun rack in your pickup truck to carry dressage whips and riding
crops.

for once you have extra money to buy yourself something, and you get the
check out counter and decide that you don't really need that shirt anyway.
That $25 could be an entry fee!

the real estate agent asks what kind of house you are looking for, and you
say, "More than six acres."

you are unreasonably pleased to get a horse item, ANY horse item, as a gift.
"They really cared!!!"

you actually like all horse items, any horse items, regardless of execution.

you stop channel surfing at Budweiser Clydesdale commercials.

you actually get to a point where flies don't bother you so much.

your horse gets more compliments for grooming than you do.

you've considered moving into the barn, since it is cleaner than the house.

your spouse hangs around the barn hoping to get a massage when you've
finished on your horse.

you go to the museum with a non-horsy friend and, whilst wandering through
the ancient bronzes, suddenly realize he is asking exasperatedly, 'Well?
What about the conformation on this one?"

you run your tongue over your back molars and idly wonder if they need to be
floated.

you can find your boots in the dark by the aroma.

you leave work feeling stiff, tense, with a stomach- or headache, and all
those feelings disappear the minute you go through the first gate to the
ranch.

you hate posing for pictures unless you're on your horse.

you spend a lot of $ on a trip to Europe and end up spending most of your
time watching horses.

you chirp to, cluck to or spur your truck/car.

the concept of sleeping in on the weekends has long since faded from your
memory.

you know you're a hunter/jumper/ct person when:

...you count how many steps (strides) you take in between the cracks in the
sidewalk, the shadows of trees, etc.

...you count strides to the beat of the music in your car and pretend that
the telephone poles are the jumps.

you don't have to be asked by your non-horsy family what you want for
Christmas anymore...they now get their own horse catalogs.

you keep a spare stud chain in your purse for emergencies.

the family photos are in the bedroom; the horse photos in the den.

the board check is paid before any other bill.

your instructor and vet are the only non-family on your speed-dial.

you always have new foal pictures in your wallet.

the photo Christmas cards feature the horses.

you have memorized the addresses of your breed association and AHSA.

you've spent so much time at the boarding stable that people think you're
the maintenance man.

you wear NASCAR baseball caps to horse shows so people won't ask you
questions that you can't answer.

you coax your horse into the trailer with a carrot, give him a bite, and
walk out finishing it yourself. (family germ theory apparently extends to
horses).

You know you're a hunter/jumper/etc. when... 

every log / yard fence / flower garden / etc. looks like a good fence.    

your dog jumps something and you sigh, "her knees were uneven!"  

From: http://www.equerry.com/html/fun/eq_humor-hp.htm  

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Update from National: Half chaps and Old Mac boots
2) Feature: A use for horse management skills
3) Rally and rating tips: What to watch for in a "C" rating
4) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Horse gaits, balance, and
movement by Susan Harris
5) Fun and educational websites: Merck vet manual, saddle fit, and wild
horses
6) Featured rule: Cleaning hints
7) Horsey Humor: The classical way to get bucked off
8) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Update from National: Half chaps and Old Mac Boots are legal!
*******************************************************************

The following is straight from Wayne Quarles, the Activities director of
USPC.  These changes are already in effect.  For more detailed information
you can contact Mr. Quarles directly at: activities@... .

Regarding the use of half chaps, in competition.  Paddock boots with a
matching smooth leather leg piece are acceptable for competition at all
levels as well as for C-3 and above ratings.

At D through C-2 ratings and lessons, any style of half Chap is acceptable.

It should be noted that using half chaps with riding sneakers is not
appropriate. Riding sneakers do not have the depth of heel to ensure that
the strap would stay in place. As with all equipment, half chaps should be
in good repair and safe. A worn and stretched piece of elastic on a half
chap is as unsafe as worn stitching on a stirrup leather.

This second part is in response to the inquiry a while back about the
legality of "Old Mac Boots" in competition. During the Fall Joint Council
meeting, the end of September, it was agreed that; as Old Mac Boots are
actually replacement shoes and not leg protection, they do not fall under
the definition of "boots" and are therefore, acceptable for competition.

*******************************************************************
Feature: A use for horse management skills!
*******************************************************************
by Maggie Weems, DC Middle Marin Hunt Pony Club, Sierra Pacific Region

In which The Whys and Wherefores of the obscure to bizarre pony club rally
horse management esoterica finally became clear to me at Galway Downs.  Full
phase events and FEI shows need them!

THE HEALTH AND RECORD BOOK, STALL CARDS

As it turns out, in international competitions you need to have all sorts of
records identifying the horse's identity (color, marking, size, age, breed,
whirls and swirls and cowlicks, scars...can you believe descriptions of the
horse's chestnuts?), even a passport with photo!  You are not allowed to
move your horse from its assigned stall without permission because folks are
constantly walking through, checking on the international level
competitors... One of our teammate's vet had lost her horse's vaccination
records, and without an up-to-date record book wasn't sure if she was
qualified to compete or was current on vaccinations!  At the front end of
the competition we needed resting rates for pulse, respiration and temp
which was followed throughout the competition to make sure the horse was
holding up to the stress of the new locale and the competition,  the
veterinarian and organizing officials asked questions and kept statistics
regarding each horse's conditioning schedule was noted (for the benefit of
the horse, and for the national organization records), the horse's and
rider's show records were important to confirm qualifications for the upper
level competition, record of feed and supplements because rules regarding
performance enhancing substances are extremely strict .... and oh yeah, if
you have a special vet prescribed thing, you need to take the note to the
TD...

LABELING

When 277 competitors all have the same brushes, rags, buckets, galloping
boots, bandages, pillow wraps, splint boots... and 4 of them are on your
team coming out of the same trailer tack room where contents have adjusted
during the haul--it's nice to know whose stuff is whose.  Plus, scratches
became an issue... we sure didn't want to use an infected horse's equipment
on any other horse.

TACK ROOM and barn area

Every morning and every night, we watered down the aisle and raked it.  Dust
and scattered hay and feed makes everyone cranky, dirty, itchy, watery eyed,
sneezey, and hotter--not only does a dusty barn area muck up your hard work
at putting together a decent turnout for the horse and rider it also makes
your cold beverage container a little gritty, which is gross.  Finally
topping off water buckets in the dark, it was nice to not wipe out someone's
pile of "junk", i.e. their saddle rack and bandages and saddle pads and
helmets...  because you pulled the hose tighter....   Since we were hanging
out in the barn area, keeping the stalls tidy wasn't just a good thing for
the horse, the people appreciated not inhaling  ammonia fumes and having
flies under control.  Having participated in a few rallies and having the
habit of putting up tackrooms at shows, we were pretty aggressive about
adding eye hooks and various small carpentry projects so that all the
equipment had a proper, convenient place to be put away in. Every morning
and every night we put all the rider equipment and each horse's equipment
away in a designated and labeled box, and took an inventory of what we
needed for the next day.  Believe me, the very nervous riders slept and ate
much better and were much more pleasant to be around when they knew where
their stuff was.  And the grooms consequently had a much more pleasant time
because they didn't have to suffer cranky riders or guess if the rider had
disappearing equipment from a last minute adjustment the previous day!  When
tasks of feed and watering had to be delegated, it was very nice to be able
to say--grab the bags labelled "Wednesday night" for each horse--and not
have to explain the special combination of oil, oats, flax seed, etc. that
each individual needed.  Boy, and by the fourth day (we were there for 7
days) you were feeling tired--competition adrenaline fatigue and muscle
soreness and never enough sleep or down time.  Everyone seemed to be on
their feet, moving, from dawn to dusk, literally.  And everyone was put to
work-- We were pretty efficient, much less time lost this show looking for
shampoo or the black crop with the blue stripes, or Hannah's arm band--or
the black short haired brush for Chuck, or a rag to dust off boots or
whatever the thing was that was needed on the that instant or the rider
would turn to ash and blow away.

Lots of tack cleaning.  All the time.  Much of cleaning boots.  We did not
have a sponge drying basket per se, so had to improvise.  Otherwise the
sponges got gummy and stinky-- or lost.  I think we had one all purpose
cleaning sponge by the end of the week...

LABELING SPONGES

It is totally possible to label a sponge it appears (and it would be totally
stupid to have a little tag hanging off the thing or to have it in a plastic
bag), when you are running a vet box between phase C (end of
steeplechase/roads and tracks phase) and cross country... as it turns out
the industrial synthetic sponges that can hold lots and lots of water were
the best.  Forget natural sponges. At a full phase, the rider has a pit crew
that cools down the horse, with buckets and buckets of ice water and sweat
scrapers and ice flying, and horse walking ... repeated in a confined area
for all the competitors as they come through -- everyone who has identical
looking equipment.  Nice to have the labels.  you also don't want to offer
the horse a drink of water from a bucket that has just had liniment, or
diluted alcohol rub for cooling down, hence "WASH ONLY" in big letters... 
AND we actually did wipe out the horses' eyes and docks and mouths (so
knowing which sponge was which was reassuring, the disposable wipes were the
best).

By the way, our horses were spotless for their many many formal inspections
and jog outs.   

Hmmm, we needed to talk about music ahead of time, but had not.  There was a
lot of turning on and turning off and turning up and turning down of various
sources of music, news, soothing and irritating....  I for example like
southern rock, loud at all times.  Someone, I haven't identified who yet,
really did not!

NEUTRAL ZONE--UNAUTHORIZED ASSISTANCE

You normally can't talk to your rider when they are competing on pain of
elimination.  But right after steeplechase, the pit crew was allowed to
observe the horse and rider, hand off electrolytes, get instructions about
time/timing, check shoes, adjust boots, etc. in a very small area between
steeplechase end and start of last roads and tracks--one individual was
delegated to do the team's communicating so the rider wasn't getting input
from 5 different directions -- in the authorized assistance/neutral zone!

EXTRA EQUIPMENT

We brought extra horse shoes, halter and lead rope, lots of rags, a girth,
galloping boots, clean dry gloves, crop, girth, bridle, stirrup leathers,
stirrups, saddle tight (!), saddle pad... down to the vet box.  When Rose
came through the finish flags for phase C, she had three minutes extra plus
her 10 minute allotted time to recover and get to the start box for cross
country.  We set up two rows of buckets with ice water, scrapers and huge
sponges.  Our stable manager, pit boss, met rider and horse at finish line,
rider dismounted answered some officials questions, took some electrolytes,
went to sit, while the stable manager raised the stirrups, loosened the
girth and started walking the very sweaty, blowing horse.  The vet crew took
the horse's pulse, respiration and temperature.  The clip on the thermometer
became very important as the horse started walking away with the thermometer
in place, and then pooped the thermometer out!  The horse was walked through
our cooling station.  There were 6 of us plunging huge absorbent sponges
into icy water, getting as much cold water as we could on the poll, legs,
chest, croup, then belly and flanks, water on, scrape it off, horse would
walk, come back, water on, scrape it off, an official counting down the
time.  We did a safety check on the equipment, wiped all the sweaty wet
equipment off, wiped the horse as dry as we could, the vet cleared the horse
to go on to the next phase, girth was tightened, our rider was off!  While
we didn't use any of our "extra" equipment, some folks in the station next
to us borrowed some of ours....

TOOL BOX

I actually used the jack knife a couple of times, to open up hay bales, to
take down odd bits of rope and twine left around by the previous barn
inhabitants, and to cut off a pinney that had too many undoable knots
because our rider had no time to fool around before he got to his next
horse... I suppose he could have put the second pinney over the first one. 
We didn't think of that...  We used hammer and nails in the tack room, screw
driver and Allen wrench to change a gullet, replaced a battery in a cross
country watch.  Duct tape--for cross country boots, to patch a tear in a
sheet... to close up a feed bag, to label a box... to write new ride times
on and paste over the old ride times on the cards next to the stalls...
super glue to reinforce the sticky bit so we could fasten hooks on the
cement wall to hang halters next to stalls.  We might add a bicycle tire
patching kit.  Some weird kind of desert thorns did in 4 different bicycle
tires by the second day of the show, so folks had to walk/run from the barn
to wherever on errands which could be tired and cranky making...

FIRST AID KIT

We used betadine scrub, band-aids, a couple tubes of triple antibiotic
ointment (the people kind on the horse's-- we had to find out if the "pain"
reducing triple antibiotic ointment would introduce an illegal substance
into the horse's blood stream, it didn't), vet wrap, rubbing alcohol,
regular betadine, witch hazel, rubber gloves, Vaseline, ... and that was for
the horses that didn't get hurt.  Aspirin for the grooms' headaches and sore
muscles and here's a wild story, one mare who shall remain nameless (but she
was a chestnut and was previously involved in a midnight ride with Jose)
split open her face with her stall confinement hi-jinks.  Still unclear how
she actually managed to open up a four inch cut, where her blaze should have
been, I think someone reported seeing bone... anyway, head wounds create
lots of blood that needs to be soaked up.  Then a vet came, twitched her,
stapled her head back together, and the rider leapt on and had the most
brilliant cross country ride of their partnership!  Not a training
technique, but was quite an interesting experience.  After her ride and cool
down, the mare got a proper stitching up, and seemed extremely content and
proud of her performance. 

FORMAL INSPECTION

Our trainer and his horses were formally inspected 5 times over the course
of a week, and safety/bit checked.  For the jog outs we worked it out so
that the horses' hooves weren't dusty when we got there... and the rider's
boots were shiny even if they had to walk too. 

Our horses received many compliments for their "exceeds standards" turn
outs.  The officials seemed to appreciate the effort, the riders were more
relaxed and confident, and it was a total psych-out for the other
competitors.  Our horses and riders looked awesome, all the time!

BRIEFINGS ETC.

There were all sorts of competitor briefings, meetings, introductions,
course changes, rule announcements.  Time was a big deal.  Organizing course
walks, hacks, hand walking, feeding horses, feeding people, grooming, tack
cleaning, warm ups, cooling off ... you'd think with 7 days it wouldn't all
be so tight for time...  We definitely made use of our notice board.  Riders
and grooms never seemed to have time to eat, so folks took turns
replenishing coolers of drinking water, snacks, sandwiches...

KNOWING THE RULES

Dude, you have 30 minutes from when the times are posted to challenge
scores.  At that level of competition, folks checked, and knew the
rules.  No one wanted to be eliminated for a whip that was too long or an
official timing error or a volunteer who scored a run out when the rider
clearly called circle before a cross country fence, or losing to someone who
hadn't crossed through the finish flags and so on.  When we were all
completely baffled about a dressage score relative to another dressage score
(three judges marks could each be pretty different on any particular
movement depending on tastes and particular perspective) it helped to know
what the FEI rules were that set out the parameters of what was scored and
what was not.

Anyway, lots and lots of examples... test me.  Send me a note about your
biggest pet peeve regarding horse management and what the goofiest piece is
and I'll give you a for instance...

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: What to watch for in a "C" rating
*******************************************************************
by Nancy McKnight

The "C" pony clubber is learning to be an active horseman, to care
independently for pony and tack, and to understand the reasons for what he
or she is doing.  The "C" is beginning to be a problem solver, and not just
a direction follower.  The "C" shows development towards a secure,
independent seat, and increasing control and confidence in all phases of
riding.  The tremendous jump from C1 to C3 reflects a growing competence in
riding and horse care that will make possible a lifetime of pleasure with
horses.  Going from familiar local and regional instructors and raters to a
new face with wider expectations requires a maturity and confidence that
must be considered.

1. The "C" rider is beginning to be an independent problem solver.  Using
the tools (aids etc.) he has learned to understand his riding questions.
The WHY of riding and horse care are becoming increasingly important, and
his reactions reflect an ability to use his knowledge in effective ways.

2. A "C" is open to suggestion, but reflective about its use and value,
working to integrate new ideas into a growing understanding.  He is growing
in his ability to analyze his actions and in his ability to verbalize his
reactions to situations.

3. A "C" knows how to accept new challenges without jeopardizing his sound
base.  He is becoming wise in knowing the limits of his and his horse's
capabilities.  He can widen his capabilities and wisdom based on the firm
base he has developed as a growing horseman.  He uses his skills and
knowledge to look at advanced challenges in a safe and sound manner.

4. A "C" is beginning to accept responsibility for helping younger riders
understand and develop skills.  He can relate to their difficulties and yet
inspire them to view a bigger and more skillful picture.

5. A "C" realizes pride, but also humility and exhibits a hunger to build on
the sound base he has developed.  He is willing to admit weaknesses as a
challenge and not as a defeat.  He appreciates his mount, or any horse he
has a chance to ride, as a work in progress to whom he owes his best insight
and abilities.  He looks to his horse as a teacher and a partner.  He seeks
always to be fair and accurate in his analysis of a horse or another rider.

6. A "C" is proud and humble, hungry for more, confident in his well
considered skills and knowledge, compassionate about his partner, demanding
of himself to be able to care for and enjoy his sport and his partners human
or equine.

The jump from C1 to C3 is and should be tremendous, but each step should be
significant and a definite change in levels.  Growing must be understood as
a raising in levels of skills and knowledge.  No compromises can make up for
lack of solid progress.  Study the STANDARDS.  Don't let the C3 requirements
gloss over holes in a weak C2.

And after C3, maybe on to "B".....

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! Horse gaits, balance and movement by
Susan Harris
*******************************************************************

Horse gaits, balance and movement is written by the same author who wrote
the USPC manuals and is on the recommended reading list for all candidates
taking their C3 and higher ratings...nuff said.

An excerpt from the inside flap:

Horses move! It is what makes them useful, able and beautiful. A foal can
walk, trot and gallop within hours of its birth. The horse knows how to be a
horse without human help. But when we ride, drive, train and judge horses,
we soon discover that not all horses move equally well. Even though there
are over two hundred breeds and types of horses and many different
disciplines and styles of riding, the horse's basic mechanism and nature are
the same. At the heart of Horse Gaits, Balance and Movement is what is
natural and common to all breeds, and herein lies the broadness of this
book's appeal to riders, instructors, trainers and judges ‹ anyone concerned
with equine movement. Lifelong horsewoman Susan E. Harris addresses in her
writing and in her more than 300 superb drawings ‹ which demonstrate the
kind of nuance and detail photographs do not permit ‹ the following topics:

*    basic structure and anatomy
*    the cycle of movement
*    gaits and transitions
*    balance and movement
*    poor movement
*    flexion, bending and lateral movement
*    conformation and movement
*    shoeing and movement
*    how a rider affects movement

Her chapter on practical tips for improving the horse's movement will be
especially valuable to the rider, whether he or she is in reining, show
jumping or dressage. Indeed, the information given in this book will go a
long way toward enabling horsemen to interfere less and thus permit the
horse to achieve the best movement it is capable of achieving.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

All vet students and the most savvy of horsepeople use the Merck Vet Manual
as their main reference book.  If you ever wondered just where the vet comes
up with his or her diagnosis, prognosis, or sense of humor, just look up
whatever ailment you can think of in this online version of the Merck Vet
Manual!

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp

************************************************

Lisa Schuessler sent along a neat saddle fitting site, thanks!

http://www.saddle-fitting.com/

************************************************

Wild horse sanctuary: www.wildhorsesanctuary.org

This site tells about a unique 5,000 acre ranch near Shingletown, CA that
has become home to many unadoptable wild horses.  These horses were saved
from slaughter, find out how you can help.  The ranch offers trail rides,
cattle drives, volunteer and internship opportunities, as well as ways to
sponsor and help other horses in need.  If you're fascinated by wild horses
and want to see them up close and personal, this may be the way.

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Cleaning hints
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook pages 45 & 46 section 2: Tips for Successful
Horse Management at Rally, Cleaning hints

A. Listerine can be used to help remove dandruff from a mount's tail, mane
and forelock.  Pour a small amount of liquid onto the area.  Rub liquid into
the base, near the skin.  Let it stay in an hour, then thoroughly rinse it
out.  Shampoo, condition, and brush as usual.

B. Cleaning under the tail with a little baby/mineral oil on a tissue will
soften the skin and relieve itching.

C. The night before turn out apply hoof dressing (not polish).  In the
morning, towel off to a sheen before turn out.  Use of dressing on a sole
and frog will give a cleaner look to a picked-out, brushed-out hoof.

D. A clean, damp towel kept handy when grooming can be used for wiping any
dust or dirt from the hands when finished.  Cleaning the hands before
touching clothes will help keep clothing clean.

E. If dressed to ride while grooming, the wearing of a chef's apron with
pockets helps keep clothing clean.

F. For boot trees: Roll up newspapers or magazines to match the diameter of
the calf.  Then spiral-wrap tape around paper to hold the shape.  Slip the
paper into a knee-high stocking.  An old tennis ball in a sock put down into
the lower part of the boot will support the toe area.

G. A small amount of Armor-All or Vaseline rubbed on rubber riding boots
helps make them shiny.  [Stormy's note: these products also work well on
rubber bell boots and splint boots with rubber elements.]  Do not put on
inside of calves; that will make the boot too slippery.

H. Black boot dye will cover scuffed toes that polish alone won't cover.
Dye should not be put on the inner calf where it will rub off on the saddle.
The black dye can also be used on rubber boots to give them a shine.

I. Old nylon stockings make good buffers for putting a shine on leather
boots.

J. Black dye can also work on faded velvet, as will permanent magic marker.

K. Pam sprayed on suede knee pads before washing will make them last longer
and stay softer.

L. A sink cleaner [such as Comet or Ajax, not Drano!] will clean white
stirrup pads.

M. A small amount of Mr. Clean or Scotch Brite in tepid water removes
caked-on dirt and jockeys from tack.  Tack should be oiled afterwards.

N. Spray 'n' Wash or Shout worked in with a scrub brush will clean girth
elastics.  Rinsing should be done carefully so leather doesn't get too wet.

O. For long hair done in a "bun," use a "bob" sized hairnet.  Put on hairnet
at forehead, and twist at nape of neck before putting over the bun.  The
figure-eight shape keeps in all stray hairs.

P. The stock tie pinned at the bottom with four pins ensures a supply in
case any are lost.

Q. To take metal deposits off of leather, rub the area with hair from the
mount's tail [a good supply can usually be found in the mane and tail comb].
Then clean as usual.

********************************************************************
Horsey humor: The Classical way to get bucked off
********************************************************************

There is a definite "classical" method one should strictly follow while
one's horse is bucking.


1. Ensure that you have an audience. There is absolutely no point in being
decked by your horse unless there are, oh, say a hundred people around to
watch. This way, you will have made them feel better about their own
inadequacies, and you won't have to go into tedious detail explaining to
everyone you know exactly how it happened. It is considered good form if at
least one of the audience members is either:


a. Someone you admire and want to impress; or 
b. Someone you despise and don't want to give any ammo to; or
c. Someone you have the hots for and want to impress; or 
d. Your best friend, who will have no compunction in falling over, laughing
and pointing.


2. Try to be spectacular. I mean, anyone can just get bucked off and land on
their backside, can't they? You want to try to make this "the decking to end
all deckings." The Titanic of bucks. You get the picture. Now, for this you
will need the following: An extremely acrobatic horse - you want one of
those twisty-turny jobbies last seen at the National Rodeo Championships; a
supple back - you should practice somersaults, pirouettes and handstands at
home; a hat- see, I can be sensible!!!

3. It is best if this buck comes at a time when everyone is watching you,
but no-one is prepared for what is to come. During a dressage test is good.
Your horse should be working nicely, giving no indication that you are about
to become "the person who learned to fly." Of course, experts at this will
point to the tail swishing, the ears twitching back, and the tension around
the nostrils, but they are show-offs and should be ignored. To the
uninitiated, this will look like a dramatic performance which you and your
horse have practiced at home. 

4. When the horse leaves the ground, and launches you into the air like a
cannon ball, it is far more gratifying for the crowd if you can let out a
blood-curdling yell. Kind of like William Wallace when they cut his, um,
thingies off. Practice this at home. When the local rangers knock on your
door, asking if you are keeping a wild cougar in your back yard, you will
know you have it right. 

5. You should try to stay elevated as long as possible. The longer the
better. If your arms and legs fly in impossible directions, as if you were a
rag doll, you will achieve additional marks for artistic impression.

6. When you land, try to do so with a thud! The kind of dull sound that you
hear when you drop a melon from a great height. Try not to go "splat" - it
puts the audience off their hamburgers. 

7. Lie immobile for a while, as your horse runs off into the distance. After
a suitable time, raise your head and groan : "you b****d".

Submitted by Margaret Juergensmeyer

http://www.equerry.com/html/fun/eq_humor-shl.htm

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Recreational Show Horses at Risk for Stomach Ulcers
2) Rally and rating tips: Hints for taking your C3 rating test
3) Questions and answers: D rally questions, betadine and study questions
4) Fun and educational websites: Merck vet manual, art,
5) Featured rule: Formal Inspection and Presentation of Mount
6) Horsey Humor: The horse's dictionary
7) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Feature: Recreational Show Horses at Risk for Stomach Ulcers
*******************************************************************

The following article was sent out on the USEF newsletter, September 8th,
2005.

New Study Shows Recreational Show Horses at Risk for Stomach Ulcers
By Rose Raus

New research shows that stomach ulcers can occur within five days in horses
exposed to recreational show conditions and activities. The study, reported
in the September 1 issue of the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical
Association (JAVMA), indicated that seven out of 10 horses developed ulcers
when exposed to normal situations related to weekend show travel. These
included transportation, twice daily feeding, light exercise and stall
confinement.

Researchers and veterinarians have historically associated stomach ulcers
with high-performance or racehorses. This new study shows just how easily
horses can develop stomach ulcers in association with less-strenuous,
recreational activities such as weekend horseshows or events.

³The research demonstrated that conditions representing typical activities
of the recreationally used horse are associated with an increased incidence
of gastric ulcers within a short time period,² said Dr. Scott McClure, DVM,
PhD, author of the study. ³The findings reported should increase awareness
that gastric ulcers affect a greater population of horses than previously
thought.²

The study included a total of 20 horses determined to be ulcer-free. Ten of
the horses were exposed to conditions over the next five days that simulated
a weekend horse show. This included four hours of transport to a secondary
facility, three days of light training (thirty minutes of longeing twice per
day), twice daily feeding, stall confinement and a four-hour trip back to
the home facility. The other ten horses remained together in a paddock at
the home location as a control group. All 20 horses underwent a second
endoscopy on day five. Results showed that seven out of ten horses
transported off-site had developed stomach ulcers within only five days.
Furthermore, two of the control horses developed ulcers, possibly due to the
change in herd dynamics after the first group was transported away.
The research highlights just how easily horses can get stomach ulcers and
the opportunity for proactive prevention. Until recently, there was little
horse owners could do to effectively prevent stomach ulcers in their horses.
But now, ulcers can be prevented with UlcergardTM from Merial. Ulcergard is
the first and only FDA-approved product scientifically proven to prevent
stomach ulcers in horses. Available through veterinarians, Ulcergard is a
once-daily (four daily doses per tube), cinnamon-flavored oral paste that
prevents ulcers in horses exposed to stressful conditions including, but not
limited to, confinement, training, travel and competition.  

Stormy's note: This article is of special interest to me because of the
questions and answers that have been coming up on this newsletter about the
possible link between cribbing and stomach ulcers.  The author may be
promoting a certain ulcer preventing product, but if you feel that your own
horse may suffer from ulcers, there are many other horse management,
training, and dietary changes you could implement to help this problem
before you'd have to go to expensive drugs.  Thanks to April Smith for
passing this along.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Hints for taking your C3 rating test
*******************************************************************

The following is a continuation of some of the great information I gleaned
from Nancy McKnight of the Oregon region.  For more information about Nancy
and the C3 rating, see last month's issue.  Although it is written
specifically for C3 candidates, all levels can benefit from this advice, it
just becomes critical at the C3 and higher levels.

HINTS FOR TAKING YOUR C3 RATING TEST
by Nancy McKnight

Much of the examiner's impression will be based on the quality of your oral
answers to both your unmounted and mounted phases of the test.  Therefore
you should make definite efforts to anticipate and organize your responses
to various questions.

STEPS TO GOOD ORAL RESPONSES TO EXAMINER'S QUESTIONS....
1. ANTICIPATE THE QUESTIONS
     * read the standards and formulate probable questions
     * listen carefully to the exact question - if there are parts you do not
understand, ask for clarification

2. GATHER THE PERTINENT INFORMATION AND ORGANIZE IT TO CREATE ANSWERS
     * write down the facts, emphasizing the terms and vocabulary needed to
give complete answers to specific questions
     * organize the information to present concise and correct answers to
specific questions
     * have back-up information to support opinions and ideas
     * keep in mind the sources for your information

3. TAKE COMMAND OF YOUR ANSWERS AND SPEAK WITH CONVICTION
     * try to use complete sentences
     * repeat a portion of the question in your answer ..."The conformation
of my horse is..." and then go on with your ideas, facts, and opinions
     * speak directly to the examiner with eye contact and in a clear voice
     * always ask if the examiner would like more detail (if you are prepared
to give it!)

4. PRACTICE GIVING YOUR ANSWERS ORALLY
     * mothers or friends are good for this purpose...
     * DON'T memorize the answer, practice varying your answer. This is not a
drama, so you don't want your information to sound like someone else's
script.

5. FOR MOUNTED FEED-BACK
     Warm-up - Have a plan!!!  Know your horse's requirements.  Use correct
terms which describe what you need to accomplish.  Analyze how you were able
to carry out your plan.  "To stretch and make muscles supple I ....", "To
make the horse pay attention in a relaxed way I .... ", "To get forward
movement without rushing I ...", "To engage my horse's hindquarters I ....",
"To get my own body relaxed, supple and steady I ...." etc.  "Because my
horse is (green, inclined to get too forward, lazy, is easily distracted -
whatever) I need to concentrate on ______ during warm-up.  Because I am
still working on my (leg position, quiet hands, my bobbing head, whatever) I
did ______ during warm-up.
     Answer in complete sentences when possible.
     Ask for clarification if you do not understand the question.
     Use the correct terms to show you understand the principles involved.
     Read the Standards to determine what the examiner is looking for.
     Verbally analyze your riding and your horse on a daily basis.
     Concentrate on your efforts without blaming the horse.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy

I had a HM newsletter question...  which newsletter had the great sample
questions for D level members at rallies?

Thanks,
Lori Moreno, Deer Creek Pony Club parent

Hi Lori,

The questions that they're most likely to get at a D rally for the written
test are covered in the D level study guide on the www.ponyclub.org website.
From the website click on the "forms" link and from there click on "D study
guide (written test)".  Since the D rally coming up in our region will be
run as a mini-Eventing rally, it would also be helpful for the Pony Clubbers
to look over the "Eventing Study Guide" also found under the "forms" link.

For other questions that may be asked during D level tests refer back to
these past issues of the Horse Management Newsletter:

D1 sample questions: May 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/14

D2 sample questions: April 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/13

D3 sample questions: March 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/12

Have fun!
Stormy

*******************************************

Hi Stormy,

Please remind me about adding soap to betadine to convert it to a scrub for
Rally purposes.

Saragail Standish, DC, 49er Pony Club

Hi Saragail,

If you have betadine solution instead of betadine scrub in your equine first
aid kit and you want to make it into something that will satisfy the
³antimicrobial/antiseptic scrub² item then all you need to do is add some
liquid soap to the betadine solution.  Add enough so that after it¹s mixed,
you can squirt some out and get it to make some foamy bubbles if you were to
wash with it.  You wouldn¹t need more than one part soap to 4 parts betadine
solution.  If your betadine solution bottle is already full, I¹d suggest
squirting about half of it into a second bottle and mixing that with the
liquid soap, that way if you do need betadine solution (great for diluting
and flushing puncture wounds) you¹ll still have some on hand.  The only
problem you may run into at a rally if you have made your own betadine scrub
is that if it¹s not in its original bottle with the current expiration date
it could be considered to not have an expiration date.  Current expiration
dates are required on all medications; although it could certainly be argued
that the antimicrobial/antiseptic scrub isn¹t a medication, it¹s a cleanser.
My best advice is to take the expiration date from the original bottle and
write it in permanent ink on the new bottle, or if you have access to a vet
who would write up the scrub bottle contents with an expiration date that
would be even better.

Stay clean,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

For those of us who want the most technical information about horse health
care and ailments, now the entire Merck Veterinary Manual is available for
free online!  The Merck Vet Manual is what veterinarians use in vet school
and beyond.  Find it here and search for whatever might be on your mind:

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp

************************************

Beautiful Equine Art site

http://www.galeriepleinaire.com/prints.html

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Formal Inspection and Presentation of Mount
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 37 section 27: Formal Inspection and
Presentation of Mount

All riders will report for formal inspection wearing chin strap and helmet
in place, as if to ride.  Spurs (optional) may be put on in the stable area
and worn to the inspection site.  Girths should be adjusted for riding.
Stirrup bars should be down and stirrups run up.  ALL riders will stand at
the mount's head on the near (left) side, with reins in right hand below the
bit and the slack in the left.  The rider should be on the same side as the
Judge, which will necessitate changing sides as the Judge does.

********************************************************************
Horsey humor: The Horse Dictionary
********************************************************************

The Horse Dictionary

Arena: Place where humans can take the fun out of forward motion.
Bit: Means by which a rider's every motion is transmitted to the extremely
sensitive tissues of the mouth.
Bucking: Counterirritant.
Crossties: Gymnastic apparatus.
Dressage: Process by which some riders can eventually be taught to respect
the bit.
Fence: Barrier that protects good grazing.
Grain: Sole virtue of domestication.
Hitching rail: Means by which to test one's strength.
Horse trailer: Mobile cave bear den.
Jump: An opportunity for self-expression.
Latch: Type of puzzle.
Longeing: Procedure for keeping a prospective rider at bay.
Owner: Human assigned responsibility for one's feeding. 
Rider: Owner overstepping its bounds.
Farrier: Disposable surrogate owner useful for acting out aggression without
compromising food supply.
Trainer: Owner with mob connections. 
Veterinarian: Flightless albino vulture.

Submitted by Margaret Juergensmeyer

More horse funnies here:
http://www.equerry.com/html/fun/eq_humor.htm

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: A parent's role during ratings
2) Recommended products and services: Metronomes for riding
3) Rally and rating tips: Sample letter for ratings preps
4) Questions and answers: loose shoes, flowcharts, and bit allergies
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: A Gymnastic Riding System by
Betsy Steiner
6) Fun and educational websites: sculpture, knowledge, and tack
7) Featured rule: Unauthorized Assistance
8) Horsey Humor: Strange horse laws
9) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Feature: A parent's role during ratings
*******************************************************************

Pony Club ratings can be stressful for all involved, not least of all for
the candidates' parents.  As a parent, by the time your child makes it to a
rating, you have already spent countless hours and dollars supporting your
child in achieving his or her goals.

It is certainly normal parental nature to want to step in during this
momentous occasion and help "control" the outcome whether it be by making
sure your B candidate remembers her hairnet, muttering "heels down" as your
D2 candidate passes you on the rail, or by commiserating with other parents
about how this examiner must not know good riding when she sees it.

Last weekend I had the pleasure of meeting Nancy McKnight at her Oregon
ranch called "Two Dollar Window".  Nancy has been an avid Pony Club
supporter for probably more years than I've even been alive.  She has
cultivated a special knack for pulling together her thoughts and translating
them into insightful written materials that help enrich her region.  I have
the good fortune to pass on some of these materials now to a wider audience.
Nancy gave her blessing to use these as I saw fit, so I pass on the same
liberties to the readers of this newsletter.

Originally, Nancy wrote the following for parents of candidates taking the
C3 test, but it really applies to all of the ratings.

RATINGS SUPPORT SYSTEM

1. This is your candidate's test!  Not yours, not your instructor's test,
not your club's!

2. This IS a chance to review what part you played in the preparation of
your candidate, to review quietly from the sidelines, to learn how strengths
and weaknesses reflect your support, your teaching, your example...HOW MUCH
INDEPENDENCE DID YOU ALLOW YOUR CANDIDATE TO DEVELOP?  WAS THE SUPPORT YOU
GAVE SUFFICIENT TO PROMOTE TRUE GROWTH?  WERE YOU REALISTIC IN HELPING YOUR
CANDIDATE UNDERSTAND HIS STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES WITHOUT MAKING A JUDGEMENT
CALL ON THE CANDIDATE?

3. BE QUIET and LEARN!  Don't judge the candidate - Let the candidate
determine where he stands in comparison to the Standards.  Give the
candidate the opportunity to do his own work!!!  It is his job to care for
his horse, bandage as the examiners want, clean his own tack, muck his
stall, answer the questions and keep order (mentally and physically).

4. The examiners come with a wide experience in viewing the level of
proficiency within the demands of the Standards.  From their view they must
determine how the candidates in this test meet the standard or do not meet
the standard with their performance on the day of the rating.  They are not
judging the youngster; but determining how they meet the requirements of the
test.  This should be viewed as a means toward improvement no matter what
the outcome.  The candidates are the same individuals the day of the rating
and the day after the rating - let's just hope they have a wider perspective
of the standards after the test.

5. As you watch FROM A DISTANCE be thoughtful in reflecting on your part in
the process.  The test is really quite straight forward - there are no
tricks and there are no shortcuts.  Free Forward Movement (FFM) is free and
forward, Basic Balanced Position (BBP) is basic and balanced.  You either
know the unmounted requirements or you don't.  There is NO place to hide and
there are no trick questions.  Yes, the horse makes a difference, but
understanding and ability to analyze and accommodate the horse's performance
will not be overlooked by the examiners.  The candidate must have a plan,
and must be accurate and compassionate in his understanding of his partner,
the horse.  Failure is NOT a part of the picture - complying with the
requirements is the candidate's goal.

6. Remember that the STANDARD IS THE STANDARD IS THE STANDARD.  Look at the
big picture and don't be caught with the mistake of thinking in terms of
Pass or Fail.  Help your candidate determine where he is and encourage him
to dream of where he wants to go.  Let it truly be his dream without your
desired demands or expectations inhibiting his true growth.

7. Help provide opportunities to allow candidates to find their own paths
now and after the rating.  Every achievement should open doors to greater
growth and enlightenment.  Horses provide a means to unending chances for
personal growth.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Metronomes for riding
*******************************************************************

Yes, I said metronomes ... you know ... the little clicking things that
musicians use to keep time?  Metronomes are a nearly essential tool to use
if you want to create your own dressage musical freestyle, but even if
you're just working on improving your horse's rhythm (or your own!) a
metronome might be a very helpful tool.  The smallest practical metronome
that I've seen is one made by Seiko and sold by Dressage Extensions as well
as many music stores.  It clips on to your clothing or saddle and has
buttons that you can use to control how fast or slow it clicks.  With a
metronome you can finally practice your lengthened canter or trot and make
sure the horse's rhythm doesn't change.  It would also be especially useful
for helping to develop a young horse's rhythm, or just use it to help find
music to ride to for fun!

Find it here on the web:
https://store.primediamags.com/shop/equine/viewProduct?pm_id=7225

Thanks to Diane Hoffmann for finding this online!

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Sample letter for ratings prep
*******************************************************************

Another great find from Nancy McKnight is a letter she sent out to the C3
candidates in preparation for their August test.  This letter can be
modified for DCs, or upper level ratings coordinators to use to help Pony
Clubbers take responsibility for preparing themselves for their tests.  I
have taken the liberties to bracket around specific information that will
need to be modified to suit your own needs.

Dear [Pony Clubber],

Congratulations on accepting the challenge of your [C3] rating.  I am
enclosing a time line for you to use to help you prepare.  I look forward to
getting better acquainted with your needs to put together a clinic that will
help you in preparation.

The test date is [August 12-14, 131 days away]
The required clinic is [June 28-30, 86 days away]

There are many topics you need to study.  I would suggest that you take the
ones most troublesome for you and plan time to concentrate on them during a
time when school exams, etc. are not competing for your time.  Establish
goals and a time line to cover all the topics.  On the USPC website
(www.ponyclub.org) under the "Forms" section there is a very good Written
Test Study Guide which would be valuable to download.  No one should give
you the answers, and much of the material simply has to be memorized and
then put into use for your purposes.

At the clinic we will be [longeing, riding on the flat and over fences in
the arena and in the open.]  Establish a time line to be sure your vet work
is done on time, your farrier schedule is planned wisely, your conditioning
is done diligently, your feeding schedules are in tune with the
conditioning, your tack is in perfect shape, and you are fit to match the
efforts necessary to accomplish the tasks.  We expect you to be ready to
test in [June] with only tune-up and details to cover between the clinic and
the rating.

As an example for your own personal study guide:
     [Poisonous plants - parasites - pasture management ... April 4-10]
     [Teaching - foot care and shoeing - conformation ... April 11-18]
     [Diseases - first aid - nutrition ...]
     [Bandaging ...]
     [Longeing ...]

Many of the topics require ongoing practice.  Don't wait until the last
minute to cram!!!  AND RIDE, RIDE, RIDE to develop and maintain the skills
necessary to feel comfortable at the rating.  Ride as many horses as you
can, and carefully analyze each of them as the [C3] standard requires.  [In
perfect Basic Balanced Position (BBP), freely forward, sensitive to well
applied aids]... and talk, talk, talk.  Oral evaluation of your ride is
absolutely essential.  YOU CANNOT GET READY FOR THE RATING AT THE CLINIC.
GETTING READY IS A GRADUAL PROCESS OF DEVELOPMENT.  We will try to help you
pinpoint the requirements of the rating at the clinic, but it is up to you
to practice the skills necessary.

This is a major step in your equestrian career.  Do it wisely to get the
full enjoyment and benefit from the rating.  I look forward to getting to
know each of you better and to cheering for your accomplishments.

[Your signature]

Stormy's note: Don¹t forget, there are sample questions for each rating
level in the back issues of this newsletter.

Get them here:

D1 sample questions: May 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/14

D2 sample questions: April 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/13

D3 sample questions: March 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/12

C1 sample questions: February 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/11

C2 sample questions: January 2004 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/10

C3 sample questions: December 2003 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/9

B sample questions: November 2003 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/8

HA sample questions: October 2003 issue
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/7

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Dear Stormy May,

Our pony club recently had a mounted meeting where a member rode a school
horse with a known loose and significantly laterally shifted rear shoe.
When I expressed surprise and concern, I was told that it was okay to ride
him for flat work. When I researched, everything says that it's NOT okay.
(This same owner also allows her school horses to be ridden with missing
shoes)

What is the standard regarding loose shoes?  Am I incorrect in thinking that
this is never proper horse management?

Sincerely,
A Frustrated Pony Club parent

Hi Frustrated,

You were right to express concern about a horse being ridden with a loose
shoe, especially at a Pony Club mounted meeting.  The damage can range from
cracks in the hoof wall, to a punctured sole and the inevitable abscesses or
even worse infections leading to permanent lameness or death.

I'm going to go into this question in more depth than you probably expected
because I think it's an important topic for all horse owners and riders to
think about.

There is a lot of information in each of the USPC manuals about shoes and
shoeing, but it doesn't specifically say that you should never ride a horse
with a loose or missing shoe.  The closest it gets is in the formal
inspection sheets in the 2002 Horse Management Handbook where at each rating
level, D1-A the horse is expected to have, "feet well trimmed and/or shod".

From a practical standpoint, everybody who owns a horse with shoes for more
than a year or two will have to deal with what to do when a shoe comes loose
or off.  As Murphy's law will dictate, it will always happen right before
the most important event of your life, leaving you with a moral dilemma; to
ride, or not to ride.

I won't pretend to have the ultimate authority to answer this question for
you or anyone else, but here are the factors I take into consideration when
I have to deal with this dilemma:

1) Is the shoe just slightly loose, or is it only holding on by one or two
nails?  Does the shoe have quarter or toe clips?

If the shoe is just slightly loose, I usually go ahead and keep using the
horse while calling the farrier daily (my farriers often do better with
frequent reminders).  If it's a front foot I will probably put bell boots on
to lessen the chance of the horse pulling the shoe with a hind foot.  If a
trip to a nearby barn or the farrier's residence is an option I might do
that to make it easier for the farrier to see my horse on a short notice.
I'm even happy to use a different farrier in a pinch (it pays to be on good
terms with all the local farriers).  Sometimes I will put several wraps of
duct tape around the shoe and the hoof wall before riding to give a little
extra insurance that the shoe stays in place.  By the end of the ride, the
duct tape has inevitably worn through but it has served its purpose.

If the shoe is barely hanging on I usually elect to pull the shoe myself.
Pulling a shoe that is barely hanging on is not as much of an ordeal as one
might imagine.  Sometimes it's just a matter of grabbing the shoe and gently
prying it off.  If the shoe is loose enough that you can cut the nails
between the shoe and the hoof, that's an easy way to get the shoe off while
preserving the hoof.  If you can't get between the shoe and the hoof to cut
the nails, then be sure to do your best to cut the remaining clinches off at
the top of the nails that are still attached before you pull the shoe.  If
you don't cut the clinches, you'll end up taking off more of the hoof than
you'd like.  The clinches are the part of the nails that are folded over and
visible on the hoof wall about 1/2 inch above the ground.  Clinches can be
cut with wire cutters or hoof nippers if they're already risen above the
hoof wall, or even gently chiseled off with a hammer and flat head
screwdriver in an emergency.  Watch your shoer the next time he pulls your
horse's shoes off.  If you're lucky, he might even let you try to pull a
couple of nails yourself.

If the shoe has toe clips, or especially if it has quarter clips, I am much
more vigilant about not letting the shoe get so loose that it might twist
and have a clip puncture the sole.  This has happened to me more than once
and luckily, the horses were only momentarily lame as they stepped on the
clips.  In all cases, I then quickly pulled the rest of the shoe off.  The
chance for infection by stepping on a clip is much greater than with a
shoeing nail getting in the sole.

2) What is the natural condition of the particular horse's hooves?  Are they
naturally strong and resistant to cracks, or are they particularly weak and
shelly?

Some people routinely start shoeing their horses when they are three years
old and started under saddle.  Just because a horse has shoes, doesn't
necessarily mean that he needs them.  I have started a lot of young horses
over the years and most of the time, for the riding that I do, they don't
need shoes at all.  In fact, the only one who did, just needed it on her
front feet when I was working her during the summer so her feet wouldn't
bruise too easily.  On the flip side of that, once a horse has had shoes
consistently for 4 or 5 years, they will sometimes come to depend on them.
It's similar to us realizing how tender our own feet are when walking
outside barefoot, but after a summer of running around without shoes, our
feet start to develop a toughness that I'm sure our ancestors took for
granted.

If your horse has lost a shoe, has strong hooves, and seems to be completely
sound and comfortable, you're probably OK using the horse until the shoer
comes out.

3) What surface do you want to ride on, what do you want to do, and for how
long?

Again, there is a spectrum of possibilities to consider.

Least likely to damage a bare foot is wet or sandy ground, most likely is
rocky ground.  Least likely footing to pull a shoe is hard ground, most
likely is deep footing or muddy ground.  Least likely to damage a bare foot
is standing in a stall deeply bedded in shavings, most likely is doing an
endurance or cross country ride on rocky ground.  If the shoe has already
departed from your horse and you have a well fitted Easyboot, Old Mac boot,
or other such product, then you can usually ride as normal until the shoer
arrives.  Hopefully by now you're getting the idea that there is really no
black or white answer to your question.

4) Is it a front shoe or a hind shoe?

Front feet in general bear 60% of the horse's weight while hind feet only
bear 40%.  This is why you will often see horses with front shoes and bare
hind feet.  If the horse has lost a hind shoe, there is a better chance that
it will not get as damaged if the horse is worked, than if he lost a front
shoe.

5) How soon can you expect to get the farrier out?

For example, if the shoe doesn't have clips and is loose but still held on
by 4 nails and the shoer is due to come tomorrow, then I might be willing to
take the chance that the horse might lose the shoe in a lesson today.
Again, it's your call.

6) Where will the horse be kept until the shoe can be fixed?

If the horse will be walking around a few acres of pasture or a dry lot
corral then he probably has just as much chance of losing the shoe or
damaging the foot as if he were being ridden on the flat.  In fact, it might
be preferable if he were to lose the shoe while someone is watching than if
he pulls it in the pasture and happens to step on the clip or a nail.  If
the shoe is already gone and you have the luxury of a deeply bedded stall
and several wraps of duct tape around the hoof wall, or an Easyboot (or
similar) then the shoer should have plenty of foot left to work with when he
comes.

My personal solution is to have barefoot horses and then use Old Mac boots
when I expect to be riding on hard or rocky ground.  This said, barefoot is
definitely not the solution for all horses, particularly ones who have weak
or shelly hooves or problems like navicular or chronic laminitis.

If the owner of the school horses knew that using her horses in lessons with
loose or missing shoes would cause long term lamenesses, hopefully she
wouldn't take that risk.  On the other hand, if she realizes that shoes do
come loose, and she's willing to take the gamble that the nails or clips
won't puncture the sole in the process of coming loose, then working a horse
with a loose shoe on the flat would only slightly hasten the process that
will continue without a rider as the horse goes about his daily activities.

As a last thought, (which should probably be your first thought) if you have
a horse that continues to lose shoes on a regular basis, you may want to
consider shortening your horse's shoeing schedule (some horses actually need
shoeing every 4-5 weeks), changing farriers, trying your horse barefoot
(under the farrier's and/or vet's supervision), and/or using a dietary hoof
supplement (these generally take a year to show significant results because
that's how long it takes for the hoof to grow completely out.)

Another option, especially for upper level Pony Clubbers is to consider
apprenticing with your farrier or attending a farrier school.  Many farrier
schools can be completed in two weeks!  Once you get the basics down, you
may find yourself with a well paying flexible job to get you through college
or at least leave you with enough skills to never have to worry about a
loose shoe again!

Keep it clinched,
Stormy

***************************************

Hi Stormy,

We try to make Deer Creek Pony Club user friendly in that we really try and
apply what the clubbers want with the club. We have in the past used
trainers, savvy parents, and C-3 and higher clubbers to sign off the
Flowchart. The kids recently voted they wanted C-1 and higher to be to able
sign off. I wanted your opinion on this? Is there a concern for the maturity
level and verbal skills here? (Not every child is as mature or well versed
as others) Some of our younger C-1's did pass the rating, but I do  not feel
can make the flowchart sign off a learning process or know how to ask
"leading" questions to elicit answers that show the rater knows their
"stuff".  Your expertise will be greatly appreciated in this matter. Thanks
again.

Margie Moy, DC, Deer Creek Pony Club, Sierra Pacific Region

Hi Margie,

Flowcharts were developed as a tool for kids, parents and officials to help
assure readiness for ratings.  They are not a national or regional
requirement.  The DC may make a club requirement to have flowcharts checked
off before recommending a child for a rating.

The DC has the final say as to who is appropriate to check off flowcharts.
Perhaps a compromise between your feelings and what the kids voted, is to
say that a Pony Clubber can check off the unmounted sections of flowcharts
for ratings at least 3 levels below them.  For example, I think a C1 would
have no trouble determining if a D1 is fulfilling requirements, a C2 would
probably be capable of checking off a D1 or D2, and a C3 could check off a
D1, D2, or D3.  Once you get into the C ratings I think the checks should be
performed by instructors or other properly trained adults.

The mounted sections of flowcharts I believe should be checked off by
someone within the club or within the region who is familiar with the riding
standards.  Just because the kids have been through the ratings themselves,
doesn't mean that their eyes have been sufficiently developed to recognize
when someone is riding at the various standards.

A nice thing about the flowcharts is that they put the power in the hands of
the Pony Clubbers to show that they are ready for their rating.  If they
take the initiative to find DC approved "checkers" for each section, it
makes the DC's job much easier when rating time comes around.

Checkmate,
Stormy

********************************************

Hi Stormy,

I use a stainless steel bit on my Appendix Eventer. I do not use a very
hard hand but he gets cuts in the corners of his mouth. Could this be a
reaction to stainless steel or is his mouth just overly sensitive?

Megan

Hi Megan,

I'm glad you noticed the cuts in the corner of your horse's mouth.
Stainless steel is made of iron, chrome, and nickel.  Often, horses will
have allergic reactions to nickel that can show up as redness, cracking,
sores or just an aversion to being bridled.  An easy to find bit material
that is completely nickel-free is Aurigan®, made by the Herm Sprenger
company.  Aurigan® contains copper, silicone and zinc.  If you switch to an
Aurigan® bit and the sores go away then you can be pretty sure it was an
allergic reaction.  The other metal you could try is copper, but copper is
so soft on its own that if a horse chews at the bit, it will quickly develop
ridges that can irritate the horse's lips, tongue, and bars.  You may also
want to experiment with some of the plastic "Happy Mouth" or rubber covered
bits.  The drawback might be that they usually have stainless steel rings
and cores in the bit that might still have enough nickel to irritate your
horse's mouth.

There are several other possible causes of the sores that you'll want to
check at the same time.

Make sure your horse is salivating enough.  Saliva is a natural lubricant
for the bit.  As you are riding, check the corners of the mouth to see if
there's at least a little bit of wetness around the bit.  If not, you could
try a bit metal that promotes salivation.  Aurigan®, sweet iron, German
Silver, copper, and other copper alloy bits all promote salivation through
the oxidation of the metal.  If you don't notice much wetness, you can also
try the old dressage rider's trick of giving the horse a few sugar cubes
before they start work to get the juices flowing.

The bit's mouthpiece shape might also contribute to cuts.  Twisted wire,
slow twist, corkscrew, triangular "knife edge", or serrated mouthpiece bits
will often cut or rub the horse's mouth even if you have the lightest hands
in the world.

Lastly, check the rest of the horse's mouth very carefully.  Horses
occasionally develop ulcers in the mouth that are unrelated to bitting
issues.  Foxtails or other prickly debris in the feed can also cause cuts
and sores in the mouth.  If you're in the Southwest area, horses with
Vesticular Stomatitis will show sores in the mouth as well.  If you notice
sores in places other than where the bit would rub, contact your
veterinarian immediately.

If it's safe, I'd suggest switching to a bitless alternative while the sores
heal.  Bag balm is a good salve to help speed the healing from bit rubs on
the lips.  It's like chapstick for horses!

Speedy recovery,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! A Gymnastic Riding System by Betsy
Steiner
*******************************************************************

A Gymnastic Riding System Using Mind, Body, and Spirit: Progressive Training
for Horse and Rider by Betsy Steiner and Jennifer O. Bryant

The title is a mouthful but basically this is a book by a well known and
respected dressage trainer who has adapted Pilates exercises into a valuable
workout for horse riders.  Betsy calls her exercises, "Equilates".  The book
then goes on to give some great lesson ideas that would be especially useful
for Pony Clubbers starting out as trainers or established trainers looking
to add some new tricks to their bags.

Here's what the publisher has to say about it:

Most books on dressage discuss the physical aspects of riding: horse
position, rider position, use of the aids, and movements. International
dressage rider and trainer Betsy Steiner believes that the physical (body)
is just one­third of the riding equation, with two vital components ‹ the
intellectual (mind) and the psychological (spirit) ‹ playing roles of equal
importance. Each level of the classical training pyramid ‹ rhythm,
suppleness, contact, impulsion, straightness, and collection ‹ is addressed
in all three dimensions for both rider and horse. Never before has such a
multifaceted training system been laid out for riders and horses of all
levels.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

The most beautiful horse fountain I have ever seen is made by the
Sacramento, California artist Patricia Borum.  You can see this fountain and
other beautiful sculptures on her website at:

http://www.patriciaborum.com/

************************************************

Equerry is a nice equine site with some very good interviews of well known
horse people, a great humor section (see an exerpt below) and a
comprehensive guide for first time horse owners.

Find it all at:
www.equerry.com

************************************************

For you internet shoppers, this site is not to be missed.  I bought my last
two pairs of slip on, steel toed jodhpur boots from them for only $50. each
and the quality has far outlasted both Ariats and Blundstones.  I highly
recommend their boots!

www.tack-wholesale.com

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Unauthorized Assistance
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 28 section 6: Unauthorized Assistance

Competitors are expected to be self-reliant.  Assistance is available from
rally officials, HM Judges, and other competitors.  When bodily harm is
imminent, outside assistance is permissible.  In cases where special needs
arise, e.g., delivering lunches, coolers, medications, etc., to competitors,
the chaperones shall contact the Horse Management personnel to make
arrangements at the neutral zone (a designated area open to parents,
chaperones and competitors).  If competitors are having problems with
unsolicited advice and are fearful of incurring penalties, they should speak
to the CHMJ.  The penalty for unauthorized assistance in Horse Management
shall be up to 60 penalty points in Horse Management.

********************************************************************
Horsey humor: Strange horse laws
********************************************************************

Here is a collection of some of the wildest horse laws ever passed.  A great
many of these laws were aimed specifically at horses and riders. No one
knows how they got there and no one living has a memory of anyone arrested
under them.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

In Omega, New Mexico, every woman must "be found to be wearing a corset"
when riding a horse in public. A physician is required to inspect each
female on horseback. The doctor must ascertain whether or not the woman is,
in fact, complying with this law!

In Hartsville, Illinois, you can be arrested for riding an ugly horse.

In Pattonsburg, Missouri, according to the Revised Ordinances, 1884: "No
person shall hallo, shout, bawl, scream, use profane language, dance, sing,
whoop, quarrel, or make any unusual noise or sound in such manner as to
disturb a horse."

A Wyoming community passed this one: "No female shall ride a horse while
attired in a bathing suit within the boundaries of Riverton, unless she be
escorted by at least two officers of the law or unless she be armed with a
club." And continues with this amendment to the original: "The provisions of
this statue shall not apply to females weighing less than ninety pounds nor
exceeding two hundred pounds."

A misworded ordinance in Wolf Point, Montana: "No horse shall be allowed in
public without its owner wearing a halter."

A Fort Collins, Colorado Municipal Code: "It is unlawful for any male rider,
within the limits of this community, to wink at any female rider with whom
he is acquainted."

Abilene, Kansas, City Ordinance 349 declares: "Any person who shall in the
city of Abilene shoot at a horse with any concealed or unconcealed bean
snapper or like article, shall upon conviction, be fined."

1899 vintage law from Waverly, Kentucky: "Any person who shall ride a horse
in a public place while wearing any device or thing attached to the head,
hair, headgear or hat, which device or thing is capable of lacerating the
flesh of any other person with whom it may come in contact and which is not
sufficiently guarded against the possibility of so doing, shall be adjudged
a disorderly person."

A 1907 Cumberland County, Tennessee statute reads: "Speed while on horseback
upon county roads will be limited to three miles an hour unless the rider
sees a bailiff who does not appear to have had a drink in thirty days, then
the horseman will be permitted to make what he can."

Figure out this 1913 Massachusetts law: "Whosoever rides a horse on any
public way-laid out under authority or law recklessly or while under the
influence of liquor shall be punished; thereby imposing upon the horseman
the duty of finding out at his peril whether certain roads had been laid out
recklessly or while under the influence of liquor before riding over them."

Ice cream lovers beware in Cotton Valley, Louisiana. Citizens aren't allowed
to eat an ice cream cone while on horseback in public places.

It's illegal in Marion, South Carolina, to tickle a female under her chin
with a feather duster to get her attention while she's riding a horse!

A newly married man in Kearney, Nebraska, can't ride alone. The law states
that he "can't ride without his spouse along at any time, unless he's been
married for more than twelve months."

It is strictly against the law in Bicknell, Indiana, for a man to leave his
new bride alone and go riding with his pals on his wedding day. The penalty
is a week in jail.

In Bismark, North Dakota, every home within the limits of Bismark must have
a hitching post in the front yard.

Budds Creek, Maryland, has an antique law which prohibits horses from
sleeping in a bathtub, unless the rider is also sleeping with the horse.

Citizens are prohibited from buying, selling or trading horses "after the
sun goes down" in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, without first getting permission
from the sheriff.

In Pee Wee, West Virginia, people are prohibited from swapping horses in the
town square at noon!

A unique law in Pine Ridge, South Dakota where horses are banned from
neighing between midnight and 6 a.m. near a "residence inhabited by human
beings."

And in Pocataligo, Georgia, horses aren't allowed to be heard neighing after
10 p.m.

Paradise, California, retains a most unusual law that says it is illegal to
let a horse sleep in a bakery within the limits of the community. What about
goats, cows, etc.?? Only horses are mentioned.

In Sutherland, Iowa, a law governs how horses may be seen when on the
streets during evening hours. The animal must always have a light attached
to its tail and a horn of some sort on its head.

No rodeos in this town! No man is allowed to ride his horse "in a violent
manner" if he happens to be in Boone, North Carolina.

Female riders in Clearbrook, Minnesota, be aware of this one governing the
heel length of a horsewoman's shoes. Any such woman can wear heels measuring
no more than 1-1/2 inches in length.

A loony clothing ordinance in Upperville, Virginia, bans a married woman
from riding a horse down a street while wearing "body hugging clothing." A
$2 fine can be imposed on any female rider who wears "clothing that clings
to her body."

An attorney can be barred from practicing law in Corvallis, Oregon, should
he refuse to accept a horse in lieu of his legal fees.

Trying to find a wife? Watch out in Tranquility, New Jersey that you don't
violate this law. The law states that a person can't distribute handbills
while on horseback as a means of advertising for a wife.

McAllen, Texas, has outlawed citizens from taking pictures of horses on the
Sabbath. Any person who "disturbs" or "otherwise antagonizes a horse" in
this manner will be subject to a fine of at least $1.50 and can be jailed
for as much as "three full days and nights."

In Burdoville, Vermont, it states that "no horses are allowed to roam loose
between March 1 and October 20!

In case you have an accident in Hortonville, New York, here's their antique
law: "The rider of any horse involved in an accident resulting in death
shall immediately dismount and give his name and address to the person
killed.

Watch out in Rhinelander, Wisconsin if you are riding a horse while
intoxicated! An old ordinance takes care of the problem. Such a horseman,
per the law, must be given a "large dose of castor oil." Who doles out the
penalty? The horseman's wife! Refusal to take the castor oil results in a
fine!

In closing, a summation of Clergyman Henry Ward Beecher's view on the art of
lawmaking holds so much truth. "We bury men when they are dead, but we try
to embalm the dead body of laws, keeping the corpse in sight long after the
vitality has gone. It usually takes a hundred years to make a law; and then,
after the law has done its work, it usually takes another hundred years to
get rid of it."


Thanks to Laurie Pringle for sending this along,
Contributed to equerry.com by Lynn G.
http://www.equerry.com/html/fun/eq_humor-shl.htm

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Reader responses: More on hydrating horses
2) Feature: The meaning of horses
3) Recommended products and services: Tevis Cup needs volunteers
4) Rally and rating tips: Waterless turnbacks
5) Questions and answers: Bitless collection?
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Chris Irwin
7) Fun and educational websites: wild horses, ulcers, and saddles
8) Featured rule: eligibility of mount
9) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Reader responses: Hydrating Horses
*******************************************************************

Stormy,

Wow, that was a terrific article on how to keep horses hydrated when you
take them to strange places, like going to rallies, summer camps,... all
those things we subject our horses to.  You suggested many of the things
we've done at our D Camp on Mt. Diablo - except one.  Teach your horse to
drink from a hose.

Everyone has heard the old adage about you can lead a horse to water but you
can't make him drink...... well the exception to that is if he is used to
drinking from a hose.  With most horses, it's an automatic reaction to drink
when the hose with running water is placed in their mouth.

My daughter's horse Tucker is a duck when it comes to water, and while she
and he were playing around with the water hose one time I realized that
using a hose is a great way to be sure you're getting water into a horse
when you think he might not be getting enough or it's hot and you want to be
sure he's replacing what he has been sweating off.

If you get him used to drinking from the hose you can use that method any
time you're away from home and worried if he's getting enough water.  If the
level in his water bucket isn't going down as much as you think it should,
go find a hose and try that to supplement what he's getting from his bucket.
The old gatorade/koolaid trick works if you remember to start doing it at
home ahead of time, but if you've forgotten, you can just whip out a hose
instead.  You'll be seeing him ingest water right before your eyes.... and
he doesn't have the time to sniff the water and get suspicious that it
doesn't smell like what he's used to at home.

It's just another idea to have in your bag of tricks to outsmart those four
legged beasties.

Keep those great articles coming.....

Thanks,
Marilynn Terstegge, former PC mom, Mid Cal Region

**********************************

Hi Stormy,

A couple of years ago I was in Florida visiting my daughter and riding in a
John Lyons clinic.  The owner of the horse I borrowed uses warm water and
PINK country time lemonade to encourage the horses to drink.  She had two
buckets next to each other: both with fresh water during the day, at evening
feed she would fill one with 1/3 C (one scoop) lemonade and warm water.  The
horse would drink the WHOLE bucket at once. Then she would rinse it and
leave it full of regular water.  She said it was very important to only use
PINK lemonade.

Have a great summer,
Joan Hancock, former PC mom, Sierra Pacific Region

*******************************************************************
Feature: The meaning of horses
*******************************************************************

The following is a very nice article by a 16 year old girl who lives in
Georgia.  She has a great connection with horses and I asked if she would
write something for this newsletter.

The Meaning of Horses
By Lana Kubicki

     Do you remember what it was like the first time you met a horse?  You
probably felt excited, anticipatory, and couldn¹t wait to get on its back.
When I was a small child I dreamt of all sorts of wonderful things I might
do one day with horses.  Riding around in meadows without saddle or bridle,
swimming in the lake, and being best buds with my horse were visions I hoped
would one day come true.  When I looked at a horse, or touched a horse, or
smelled a horse, I felt happy, secure, and like my wildest dreams were about
to come true.  That is what being with horses is all about.

     In today¹s world of competitive riding, we lose so much of our original
purpose and intentions.  When there¹s a ribbon on the line, we can forget
that the horse is our friend, partner, and the only one who won¹t judge or
scrutinize us.  Unlike judges in a show, horses don¹t care what you are
wearing, what family you come from, or how perfect you appear to be.  They
want the genuine you.  They want to be someone you can confide in.  They
want authenticity.

     It¹s our job to never take these wonderful horses for granted.  Each
horse has something special to offer us, and we each have something special
to offer him.  This is true for every horse you will encounter, and it is
very simple.  All horses can give to you is themselves, and all you can give
to them is yourself.  Give them love, understanding, and the ability to ³be
a horse².  They allow us to be humansŠ

     Small children understand this the best, and that is why sometimes the
strongest equine and human partnerships take place at a very young age.  If
we can learn to capture the childlike qualities of authenticity, love, and
understanding, then we can build a lifelong friendship with a horse.  We can
learn to speak his language, and realize the things he likes or dislikes.
When you ride, you will be like one unit instead of two.  Competitions will
be less stressful, and more fluid.  Judges can¹t help but notice the bond
between horse and rider.  Willingness is sometimes hard to come by in shows.

     If you treat a horse like a horse, he will stand by you at all times.
He will step up to the plate when you need him to, whether in the show ring,
on a trail ride, or in his own stall.  He will develop a ³want-to² attitude
towards work, he will be more robust, happier, healthier, and closer to your
heart.  Isn¹t that what we always dreamed of anyway?  Isn¹t that what you
wanted the very first time you looked into a horse¹s eyes?  You wanted a
true friend for life.  You wanted him to love you back.  And he will, if you
only try to know him as he wants to be known --- exactly the way he is.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Tevis Cup volunteers needed THIS WEEKEND!
*******************************************************************

How about a service you could provide for the endurance riding community
while learning more about what it takes to compete in the prestigious 100
mile Tevis Cup ride?

(The following is excerpted from the Horsin' Around Calendar, a free e-mail
calendar for the Bay Area equestrian community, subscribe or view the
complete calendar on the web at:
http://www.horsenpony.com/news/nchac/index.asp )

BECOME PART OF HISTORY by volunteering to help at the Tevis 100-mile
endurance ride! It started in 1955, and more than 700 volunteers are needed
to support the 200+ riders and their crew, who begin their trek across the
Sierras from the Lake Tahoe area to Auburn. Volunteers get to feel the joy
and hardships of the riders in their quest to master the mountains.
Volunteers are needed for check in at Robie Park on July 22nd (Friday) and
to assist riders with their horses after the vet check-in.  Volunteers will
take horses and get them numbered while riders weigh in with their tack, get
event t-shirts, meal ticket, plus root beer floats! Please contact Sherre
Beisel sherre@... or by phone (530) 268-1322.

More volunteers are needed for the vet check at the Lower Quarry location,
on July 23rd, at mile 94, about two miles east of Hwy 49 along the Middle
Fork of the American River.  No crews are allowed in at this stop;
therefore, volunteers are especially important. Tasks include setting up the
base area, directing riders to hay, water and the vet line; holding horses
while riders use the porta-potty or take a brief break to eat a  snack;
helping take pulse and respirations (P&R's) of horses, holding and  watching
pulled horses, helping to take down the area. You are asked to sign up for
at least two hours between 8 p.m. and 5 a.m. (meaning the night shift!) It
is apparently quite an  experience to watch 40 to 60 horses  show up one
right after another in the middle of the night! If you'd like to help,
please call Mary Abbott at (530) 346-7155 hm, or (916) 214-7144 cell, or
email mabbott@...

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Waterless turnbacks
*******************************************************************
by Joy Poling, Chief Horse Management Judge, Mid West region

I think kids rely too much on using a hose or water bucket to "clean" their
horse after riding and don't know how to use elbow grease to groom a sweaty
horse. I've seen kids not do a good grooming because they didn't have water
available and thought they could not groom properly without water. At one
clinic where we didn't have the option of using a hose, I let my horse dry
and groomed (without water) and let the kids give me a turnback*. He was
cleaner than the horses that were "groomed" with water. Maybe this is due to
the fact that they board; time is limited so they try to short cut the
grooming.

To clean a horse for a turnback without water, after the horse is dry, I
curry him all over; then use the dandy brush. I then use a medium bristle
brush and clean the brush every 2 or 3 strokes (I use a metal curry comb to
clean the brushes).  As the dried salt comes up you can feel the difference.
I just keep brushing until I don't feel the grit/grime on my hands.  Your
hands will eventually come back clean when you wipe them across their coat.
I finish off with a body brush. I have a medium bristle and a very soft
bristle body brush and all my brushes are natural bristle.  I think they
clean better than the synthetic ones.  It does take a lot of time and I know
we don't always have the extra time it takes.  I do think it's important
that kids learn that you can groom without water.  It  just takes lots of
time and elbow grease.

*For non Pony Club people, a turnback is a horse, tack, and rider inspection
one hour after your ride at a rally competition.  This check ensures that
your horse and gear have been properly cared for (e.g. no sweat marks, mud,
etc...).

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

My daughter and I have been using the bitless bridle exclusively for three
years.  We recently started lessons with a very competent woman, but she was
not familiar with the bitless bridle.  She is willing to work with us,
however, she says that both our older horses need to lift their backs and
round and that cannot be achieved with the bitless.  She recommends a medium
weight eggbutt snaffle bit.  Both horses are very familiar with bits and I
don't think they would have a problem.  My question is, can a horse achieve
the same collected roundedness using a bitless and if so, how can that be
done?   Also, do you think that it would be better to use a bit to develop
the collection and then switch back to the bitless?

  We are so thankful that you not only know so much about horses, riding,
bits, etc., but that you are open to the "newer" things such as the bitless
bridle.

Thanks for your time.

Mona Johnson in WA

Hi Mona,

In my experience, with most horses there is no problem achieving lower level
collection in a bitless bridle.  I started my horse Patrik (6 year old
Hanoverian) in a bit, but he quickly became fussy with it.  I luckily found
the bitless bridle when he was 4 and have ridden him in that ever since.  He
is now working on second level collection and most of the third level
movements.  Since I do want to show him, I normally ride with a KK ultra
eggbutt snaffle over the bitless bridle (2 sets of reins, held like a double
bridle) which allows me to warm up with mostly the bitless bridle, and then
switch to a little more of the bit as needed to keep him from being heavy.
He is still extremely sensitive to the bit, and he will show it by grinding
his teeth when the exercises get difficult or he doesn't understand what I
want.  He never grinds with just the bitless bridle on.  After about 2nd or
3rd level, it may be useful to switch to a bit from time to time (as long as
the rider has independent aids) to achieve a more subtle form of
communication.  If a lower level rider is riding a horse trained to the
upper levels, that would be a good time to switch the horse to a bitless
bridle so the rider doesn't confuse the horse with uncoordinated aids in his
sensitive mouth.

Jessica Jahiel is a very experienced horsewoman, dressage rider and author.
She likes the bitless bridle as well.  Below is a question and answer from
her website archives (http://www.horse-sense.org) which is very similar to
your own.  If you have some time, check out the rest of her website.  I
really respect her opinion on just about everything.

Best wishes,
Stormy

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

Hello Jessica,

I know that you think highly of the Bitless Bridle. I just got one myself.
So far so good. I do like it a lot. My instructor is not so sure. She is an
accomplished dressage rider/ instructor. She feels that at a certain point
in a horses progression that you will need the more accurate cues that only
the proper bit for the proper horse and rider team can provide. Not, mind
you, that I have any lofty dressage goals for my horse and myself. I like
working on basic dressage exercises to improve my horse's balance flexibly,
strength and longevity. He is almost 6. At this point we are working on him
stretching out his topline bending properly and shoulder ins and shoulder
outs etc. Mostly we trail ride as an occupation. The lessons are for workout
and training. So anyhow what do you feel are the limitations of finer riding
in a bitless bridle?

Thanks so much. Kate

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Kate! I don't think you're in any immediate danger of encountering those
limitations. It sounds to me as though you are doing all the right things,
and you are absolutely right about the universal usefulness of basic
dressage exercises. The more supple, flexible, and responsive your horse is,
the more fun you will have when you ride, in the ring or on the trail.

If you fall madly in love with dressage for its own sake, and continue to
school your horse according to good dressage principles, you may reach the
point at which you find that you want to participate in dressage
competition. The rules of competition do specify that the horse must wear a
bit, so you will need to find a legal bit that's comfortable for your horse,
and use it IF you choose to compete. Do keep in mind that an occasional
competition takes up very little time, compared to the rest of the time you
spend riding at home and on trails, so your horse wouldn't need to spend
very much time wearing a bit. You could certainly continue to do most of
your schooling without it. However, please don't do ALL of your schooling
without a bit and then add a bit to your horse's bridle the morning of the
competition - neither of you will be prepared!

I do agree that at the top levels of dressage, the aids are more subtle and
much more precise. But by the time you reach those levels, both you and your
horse will be very fit, strong, supple, and responsive, and you should be
riding him primarily from your leg and seat.

In a way, the requirement that a bit be used at every level of dressage
competition is - to my mind, anyway - related to the requirement that a
double bridle (two bits) be used at the upper levels of competition. It is
not so much a test of the horse as it is a test of the RIDER and the rider's
skills.

The horse is half the team, and although the focus of dressage might seem to
be the HORSE'S skills and responsiveness, the rider's skills and sensitivity
are also extremely important, because without an educated seat and hands,
the rider won't be able to provide the subtle signals and tiny variations in
balance and pressure that elicit the desired responses from the horse.

Whether you ride with or without a bit, if you are interested in dressage it
would be a good idea to think in terms of using aids rather than cues. At
the lowest level of dressage competition, you can probably "get by" with
using cues; as you go up the levels, you'll see why it's much more useful to
use aids from the very beginning. When you use aids, you have an entire
language at your disposal, and you can be much more precise and much more
expressive in your signals, which enables the horse to be much more precise
and expressive in his responses. Cues are quick and convenient, but they
limit your ability to communicate - instead of a language, you have a short
phrasebook. A phrasebook is better than nothing, and it can be useful as
long as the only things you want to say are actually IN that phrasebook, but
if you want to say something or ask a question that isn't IN the phrasebook,
or if you want to have a chat with someone, you're stuck. If you want to be
able to begin and maintain a real conversation (and isn't that what dressage
is all about?) you'll want to learn the language itself, and do your best to
become fluent. When you are "fluent" in the language of dressage, you can
say much more with a bit than without one.

In the earlier stages, when you are just beginning to develop your horse's
physique and mind, and when you are working to achieve good basic control of
your own balance, legs, and seat, you and your horse will probably both be
happier if you continue to use the Bitless Bridle most of the time. When
your own skills are at a level that enable you to "talk" to your horse using
your body and balance, and the reins are there to provide reassuring contact
and to allow you to ask the horse to tip its nose to one side or the other,
you can begin using a bit, with the goal of having the horse continue to be
as forward, pleasant, and responsive WITH the bit as it is WITHOUT it. Even
if you decide that you and your horse are very happy to work with a bit, you
should still return to the Bitless Bridle from time to time, just to check
your progress. It's a wonderful way to evaluate your riding and your
communication through the reins.

If you and your horse can go from Bitless Bridle to bit without occasioning
a change in the horse's energy, eagerness, or responsiveness, then you will
know that you are a good rider and that you are using the reins gently,
lightly, and consistently. If your horse goes beautifully without a bit, and
then becomes unwilling, anxious, short-strided, or high-headed WITH a bit,
and if you are absolutely certain that the bit fits the horse and that the
horse has no mouth pain from causes unrelated to the bit (e.g.,from teeth in
need of floating), then you will have to conclude that you may be handling
the reins too roughly, and change your style of riding accordingly.

It takes far more finesse to use a bit gently than it does to ride without
one, just as it takes far more finesse to use two bits gently than it does
to ride with just a snaffle. That's why work with a double bridle requires a
far more sophisticated and adept rider - the horse will react instantly to
any roughness and any mistake on the rider's part. Similarly, work with a
bit requires more coordination and sophistication than work in a Bitless
Bridle - it's much more demanding of the rider, both in terms of knowledge
and technique, and because it is always the rider's responsibility to ensure
that the horse is comfortable and confident.

Since the Bitless Bridle is very comfortable and easy for the horse to
accept, and encourages the horse to be very forgiving of rider mistakes, it
can lead to some self-deception on the part of the rider. If you can ride
horses very well in a double bridle, or even in a snaffle, you can buy a
Bitless Bridle on Thursday, put it on your horse and adjust it on Friday,
and use it for a long trail ride on Saturday. But if you've always ridden
your horse without a bit, you can't just add a bit and head down the trail
(or into the dressage arena). You and the horse with both need a longer,
more careful, and more gradual period of adjustment. The possibilities of
subtle communication increase dramatically with a bit - but so do the
possibilities of discomfort or pain for the horse, so it's essential that
the rider be considerate, skilled, and aware.

From your letter, it seems to me that you could easily do everything that
you're doing now, and quite a lot more, in the Bitless Bridle. It might put
your instructor's mind at ease if you allow her to try the Bitless Bridle
for herself, either on your horse (if she occasionally rides your horse
anyway, that is) or on one of her own horses. I find that riders tend to
begin very awkwardly, clearly worrying about how much control they will
have, but that the good riders quickly discover that they like the way the
horses are moving, and after a little time, those riders will usually laugh
and say "Oh, my, I completely forgot that there's no bit!" Even if she
doesn't want one of these bridles for her own use, it would be good for her
to become familiar with the idea - some day, she may need one for a
student's horse or for one of her own. I lent one of my Bitless Bridles to a
student whose horse had sustained a nasty mouth injury, and although she
went back to using a bit as soon as her horse's mouth healed, the Bitless
Bridle enabled her to continue schooling for those six weeks. Your
instructor may be more amenable to trying the Bitless Bridle if you make it
clear that you aren't trying to "convert" her, you just think that she could
benefit from discovering one more useful tool for her teaching/training
toolbox. ;-)

Jessica

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! The Horsepower series by Chris Irwin
*******************************************************************

I recently read "Horses Don't Lie" by Chris Irwin and then watched two of
his videos, "The round pen redefined" and "Pro-active problem solving".

I was skeptical at first, you know, is this guy just another self-proclaimed
horse guru saying one thing while doing another?  I'm happy to report that
Chris Irwin is the real deal.  A sensible guy with some great insights to
add to the collective wisdom of all us horse trainers.

One of the best insights he explained in his round pen video was how horses
communicate with their whole bodies.  They use their head as a punctuation
mark to emphasize what the rest of their body is already saying.  Humans get
so focused on the heads of people and animals that we forget that horses
will usually start their communication with just a swish of the tail or a
cock of the hind leg.  If we don't acknowledge horse's subtle
communications, they often have to get stronger (kicking, bucking, rearing,
going lame, etc.) to get the message through to us.

You can read more about Chris Irwin on his website at: www.chrisirwin.com .

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

CALICO MOUNTAIN MUSTANGS AVAILABLE FOR ADOPTION: Some of the mustangs from
Nevada's Calico Mountains and Palomino Valley are still available for
adoption.  Assorted colors, all beauties; bays, buckskins, chestnuts, a
cremelo, grulla, pintos, roans $125, call or e-mail to make an appointment.
(775) 475-2222 or e-mail: Michael_myers@... or cguenaga@....
Photos are available of them on the website,

http://www.calicomtns.net/june_18,_2005_adoption.htm

Some very cute horses are still available.  They have been shipped to
Nebraska so anyone in that part of the country can have a chance to adopt
them.  Of course remember these are wild horses and should only be handled
by professionals until they have been gentled and started.

************************************************

A very good article on equine ulcers, including symptoms, prevention, and
many different treatments that are being used today:

http://www.equisearch.com/care/illness/eqhorseulc217/

************************************************

Do you know exactly which saddle you want but haven't been able to find it
used or in the condition you want?  Try this site, they have a huge
selection of new and used saddles and specialize in sending European saddles
to the U.S.

http://www.thetackguide.com/

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Eligibility of Mount
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 41 section 40: Eligibility of Mount

Specific horse sports have specific rules or guidelines regarding size of
the mount and eligibility; however, the following guidelines are universal
for USPC competitions:

A: Mounts must be five (5) years of age for any USPC competition.

B: Stallions are not allowed. (See USPC By-Laws.)

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Keeping your horse hydrated away from home
2) Rally and rating tips: Unmounted teaching games
3) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Hold your horses by Bonnie
Timmons
4) Fun and educational websites: Wow saddles
5) Featured rule: Tack rooms
6) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Feature: Keeping your horse hydrated away from home
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

I had the pleasure of teaching at the Southwest Regional Pony Club camp this
year in St. John's, Arizona.  The weather didn't treat us too badly, with
only a couple of days over the 100 degree mark.  Pony clubbers and their
horses (and ponies!) came from all over Arizona and New Mexico.  Everyone
was used to the heat but not all the mounts were drinking enough water to
keep themselves properly hydrated while away from home.

Fortunately, we only had one mild colic due to dehydration and stress.  We
came up with some guidelines for next year's camp to make sure that all of
the horses will be getting plenty of this most important nutrient.  Here's
what we came up with.

First of all, when your horse is away from home (and even at home) it's a
good idea to have some way to monitor how much your horse is drinking.  On
an average day, a horse will drink 8-12 gallons of water.  During different
parts of the year though, the consumption might vary from 2-20 gallons.  The
typical way to monitor water intake is to use two five gallon buckets in the
horse's stall and then to keep filling them as the horse drinks them down.
For horses who live in a pasture with a herd, this isn't practical, but keep
it in mind for when they are by themselves.  At one fancy barn they had
automatic waterers in each stall that sent a digital read-out to a display
panel so the barn manager could tell how much each horse was drinking every
day.  What will they think of next?!

If you aren't sure how much your horse will drink while away from home there
are several steps you can take before you leave that may help him adjust.
First of all, horses often don't like the taste or smell of water they're
not used to.  To help with this, you can either bring large quantities of
water from home in clean, plastic containers (which they might not like the
taste of anyway) or try adding a packet of powdered Kool-Aid® or Gatorade®
to your horse's water bucket while still at home.  If he continues drinking
from the bucket with the flavoring added, chances are the flavor will mask
the taste of the new water and he'll drink it away from home too.  Don't
worry about mixing it up to the same strength that we like it, just one
little scoop or packet per 5 gallon bucket should be plenty.  If he likes
the taste, be sure to bring enough powder with you.

Electrolytes are a form of salt which is another essential nutrient for the
horse.  Electrolytes have the added benefit of making the horse want to
drink more.  Pony Club has always allowed the use of electrolytes added to
the horse's water, but be sure to always leave one bucket with plain water
in case the horse doesn't like the electrolytes in the water.   Perhaps an
even better way to make sure your horse gets enough water while away from
home is to add electrolytes to his supplements rather than his water bucket.
Most horses will happily eat electrolytes with grain or other concentrated
feeds.  There are several different commercial brands of electrolytes, some
with flavoring and trace minerals added, or you can make your own with 3
parts table salt (NaCl) to 1 part "Lite Salt" (KCl) available at most
grocery stores.  Most importantly, if you are going to use electrolytes
while you are away from home, start feeding them before you leave to make
sure your horse likes the brand that you've picked and will clean up his
feed.  Check with your vet for recommendations about the correct amount for
your horse.  Also be aware that if you feed a high percentage of a
"complete" feed such as Purina's Equine Senior®, it may already contain all
of the electrolytes and trace minerals your horse needs.  You can verify
this by talking to the company that makes it or checking on the feed tag and
with your vet.

Once you've arrived at your destination, if you think your horse still might
not be drinking enough, you can always add water to his grain, or soak his
hay right before feeding.  If you choose to do this, make sure you have some
sort of feed tub for your hay and/or grain so the horse won't have to end up
eating a lot of bedding along with his wet feed.  If it's warm out, don't
let the wet feed sit for more than a few hours or it might start fermenting
and give the horse a whole new reason to colic!

One last old standby for tempting a horse to drink.  Bring a little bit of
wheat or rice bran and make it into a very soupy mash.  The water doesn't
need to be hot.  I've never seen a healthy horse turn down a tasty bran
mash.

************************

While I was researching horses' drinking habits, I came across an
interesting study about keeping horses hydrated in cold weather.  In
different parts of the world, frozen water buckets can make it impossible
for even the thirstiest horse to drink.  Not only should you make sure your
horse's water isn't frozen, but at least one study from the University of
New Hampshire showed that heating the water up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit
encouraged the horse to drink 40% more water than if the water is just
barely above freezing on a cold day.  Read the whole article here:
http://ceinfo.unh.edu/Counties/Carroll/docs/Horses.htm

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Unmounted teaching games
*******************************************************************

At the camp in Arizona, on the last day they held a "County Faire".  The
fair consisted of the C, B, and H level members playing unmounted teaching
games with the D level Pony Clubbers for some great donated prizes.  Some of
the games could be easily incorporated into club lessons, C3 test unmounted
lessons, or other fun play days.  My favorite games are described below.

Horse Twister
     Instead of using a plastic sheet with large colored dots on it, a large
horse was drawn a white plastic shower curtain liner.  The teacher had index
cards with a different point of the horse written on each one.  A spinner
was divided into 4 sections (left front, right front, left hind, right
hind).  The teacher would spin the wheel and then draw a card.  The player
had to then move their proper hand or foot to touch that part of the horse's
body.  If they player didn't know where that part of the body was or if they
"fell" with the rest of their body onto the horse, they were out.  Two
players would play at the same time, creating some very precarious
positions!

Horse Jeopardy
     You may use a large foam core board with little spots of velcro on it to
hold index cards that list the categories (such as nutrition, stable
management, parts and colors, etc...) and then in each category was a 10,
20, 30, 40, and 50 point answer, taken from the D1-C1 standards.  Just like
in real Jeopardy, the player needed to respond in the form of a question or
they couldn't get the points!

Horse Bingo
     This was my personal favorite.  Of course instead of BINGO at the top of
the bingo cards, it was written as HORSE.  In each box was a little cut out
of some item of tack or equipment from a catalog.  The teacher would draw a
card that might say something like "H - galloping boots" and then the
players would search their cards for a picture of galloping boots in the "H"
column and put a little wooden marker on it.  This was a great hands-on way
for the kids to learn what different pieces of equipment looked like and
there were plenty of questions like, "What would you use a German martingale
for?" or "Is this a jumping saddle or an all purpose saddle?"

Does anyone have any other creative teaching games to share?

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Hold your Horses by Bonnie Timmons.

You might recognize Bonnie's cartoons from the TV show "Caroline in the
City" or the "Thinking Horseman" column in Practical Horseman magazine, but
the book is much, much more.  It truly is, "Nuggets of truth for people who
love horses...no matter what".  The book takes you on a journey from first
contact with a horse, all the way to the final enlightenment at the end.
Along the way you will hit memorable moments like how to read between the
lines in horse ad's:

What the ad says:
Fun to ride!!!!!!!!!!
What it doesn't say:
If you are a thrill seeker.

What the ad says:
Winning bloodlines!
What it doesn't say:
That somehow didn't get passed along.

What the ad says:
Bomb proof!
What it doesn't say:
Won't move under ANY circumstances.

This book would make a great gift for those people who have been around
horses long enough to name 5 causes of colic without blinking.
Many thanks to my friend Julie Shiebany in Missouri for showing me this
beautiful book.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

Here is yet another new, interesting concept in saddles.  If anybody has had
experience with these saddles, I'd love to hear about it.

http://www.wowsaddles.com/

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Tack rooms at rally
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook Page 31 Section 17: Tack Rooms or Tack
Storage Areas

Tack rooms or tack storage areas are to be simple and workmanlike.
Excessive decorations are inappropriate.  However, tack room drapes may be
used inside the tack room.  There are to be no drapes outside the tack room
or the stalls; nor are there to be non-essential items (tables, chairs,
etc.) in the aisles.  In addition, decorative plants are forbidden as they
are unnecessary and the plants are often poisonous to mounts.  Even plastic
plants may be eaten and cause a mount to choke.  Tack rooms are to be marked
with the team or individual name.  Required equipment should be organized
for neatness and efficiency of use.  Waste and sloppiness in the tack room
will be penalized.  Uniformity of color for team equipment is encouraged but
not required.

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Parents Rally!
2) Recommended products and services: Equine Partnership Retreats
3) Rally and rating tips: magnets
4) Questions and answers: hanging buckets, bits for ratings, formal
inspection cleanliness, and salivation
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Horse Owners Field Guide to Toxic
Plants
6) Fun and educational websites: More on toxic plants
7) Featured rule: Tack adjustment
8) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Feature: Parents rally!
*******************************************************************
by Krista Powers, Carbon River PC parent (Northwest Region)

Where¹s my bridle?  What is a body brush?  Who¹s our stable manager?  Sounds
like an ordinary rally morning; however, this time it was the parents
looking and asking the questions.  Our Club recently held a Parent Mock
Dressage Rally and it was a great success!

Two months ago one of our members decided it would be fun to have the
parents ride and the kids be the judges.  Thus, our parent rally was born.
We had a parent organizer come up with a list of jobs for the kids to do and
at one of our unmounted meetings they signed up to be HM Assistants,
scorekeepers, written test organizers, etc.  We signed up 13 parents as
riders and voted whether we wanted to jump or do dressage.  Dressage won out
because we had three of our dads who wanted to ride!  We were given the
choice of riding Intro A, Intro B, or Training Level 1 tests.

The Thursday before our rally, at our unmounted lesson, our instructor went
over the kids¹ jobs, how to schedule the day, and judge ­ all of the basics
of what to do at a rally when you are on the other side of the fence.

We split into two teams, one of seven riders and one of six riders.  We had
two other parents volunteer to be our stable managers. The morning of the
rally we unloaded our horses and set up our tack rooms all under the
watchful and helpful eyes of our kids.  We had a rally briefing where we
were told what our day would consist of, what our numbers were, and what our
formal and ride times were.  Fortunately, our rally started at 10:30 a.m.
There are some things us parents won¹t do (getting up at 5 for a fun
rally...no way)!

We had jog outs and helmet checks, formal inspections, rode a dressage test,
had a turn back inspection, equipment checks, and took a written test!  You
should have seen us parents scramble.  There was no room for a warm-up so we
went straight from our formals into our tests.  One of our dads rode his
daughter¹s thoroughbred mare in his western saddle. To stay on course, since
he didn¹t know anything about dressage, he taped the test to the horn of his
saddle! We had another dad who wore his ski pants and a personalized t-shirt
that said, "Pony club judges are the most awesemust beutiust people and I am
not sucking up.  P.S. the other team says you suck".  We are still laughing
about that!  The kids had the proper score sheets and judged us well -- too
well.  They were tough.

While the kids began the scoring, we started up the BBQ.  All of the
families shared in eating hot dogs, hamburgers, salads, and chips.  We even
got birthday cake because it was one of our girl¹s 14th birthday!  We sang a
raucous happy birthday to her, turning her face a bright red.  Then the time
came when we were called out to the arena for the awards ceremony. We each
took our club banners and stood waiting with bated breath.  The kids had
used the leftover ribbons from our show for awards.  They also made
personalized awards, ³biggest smile,² ³cutest pony,² ³best written test
score (which by the way, went to one of our dads!).²  One by one we walked
up and received our special award.

While the parents visited and ate the kids started an impromptu arena
Olympics.  We had wheelbarrow races, three-legged race, potato sack, and
find your shoe in a pile.  What fun to see our 22 members and their siblings
(and a few parents and grandparents) on foot in the arena playing games.
The day went well and we were all on our way home by 4:30.  The kids seemed
a bit more efficient than us parents at running a rally!

By the end of the day, several of our parents commented on how much they
learned from the process.  They were very impressed with how much our kids
have to do when they participate in a real rally.  A parting comment from
one of our girls was, ³we have to do this at least once a year, maybe
twice!²  I think they learned a lot too about what the HM judges and
volunteers do while they are riding and taking care of their business.  It
was a super experience for all involved.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Equine Partnership Retreats
*******************************************************************

Here at Share-It Ranch, we have created something that has been my dream to
facilitate; Equine Partnership Retreats.  We held our first experimental
retreat at the end of last summer.  After that success, during spring break
of this year, we jumped in with both feet and held two full back to back
retreats.

The only thing I wasn't prepared for was the extent of lasting
transformations that I have been lucky enough to hear about and see for
myself.  Not only the participants but also their families, friends, and
instructors have been telling us about the amazing successes the
participants continue to experience in their daily lives with horses.  It
seems that whatever they got from the experience here, might have been the
missing piece that allowed all the other elements to fall into place.

Equine Partnership Retreats focus on teaching participants new ways to
relate to their horses.  We start each day with body awareness exercises as
taught in Pilates and yoga training.  After breakfast, we move out to the
picadero (a 36' square pen used extensively in Spain and Portugal) and try
out different ways of connecting with each horse.  After lunch and craft
time, it's back out for connecting under saddle (or continued ground work
for those not ready to ride).  The end of each day brings us time to come
back together and discuss insights from the day and to formulate goals for
the next day.  The toughest part of the camp is convincing the participants
that they need to go home at the end.  Not bad for a three day retreat!

Because each retreat is limited to 5 riders, we have scheduled several
coming up over this summer and into the fall.  If you would like to
experience the work we're doing but live far enough away that it's not
practical to bring your own horse, you are welcome to borrow one of ours.

Since I work with a lot of Pony Clubbers, the participants tend to be in
their teenage years, but don't be jealous, our retreats are open to adults
as well!

Upcoming dates:

June 24-26 (full for riders but still open for auditors)
July 4-6 (2 riding spots open)
July 7-9 (2 riding spots open)
August 1-3 (3 riding spots open)
August 4-6 (5 riding spots open)
September 3-5 (5 riding spots open)
September 30- October 2 (5 riding spots open)

For more information or to reserve a riding or auditing spot, please contact
me at stormy@... .

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Stall cards on trailers
*******************************************************************

At a recent dressage rally in Southern California, someone had come up with
a great idea for attaching stall cards to trailers.  Magnets!  Some people
made hard or soft plastic sleeves with magnets on the back to slip the paper
stall cards into.  Others just stuck magnets right on the edges of the stall
card paper.  This will save the trailer owner from getting upset about tape
residue on their trailer.  Of course magnets probably won't work on aluminum
skin trailers but I'm sure sooner or later someone will come up with a great
solution for that as well.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Stormy,

I am constantly being asked what is legal to tie water buckets to trailers
at rallies.  Some groups down here have the idea that only double ended
clips are legal and that they cannot use a stud chain type attachment.  I
feel that anything that hangs the bucket safely can be used if it can be cut
away or undone if a horse gets caught in it, is OK.
Your thoughts please.

Thanks
Jill Watts, HMO, Southern California Region

Hi Jill,

There is no written requirement of specifically what buckets need to be hung
with or that that they need to have "breakaway" capabilities.  The only
reference in the Horse Management Handbook is that flat back buckets need to
be hung by one point of attachment with a snap hook or hanger, and that
round buckets need to have two points of attachment (so they don't rock back
and forth as much).  I have seen hangers be everything from dog collars, to
stud chains, to baling twine, to zip ties.

I feel very strongly that buckets (unless it's a clean muck bucket on the
ground for water) need to be hung so that their opening is above the point
of the horse's shoulder, and that they are breakaway at least equivalent to
the strength of a light-duty double ended bolt snap (please no unbreakable
nylon dog collars!)  Even at a proper height, I have seen horses in stalls
or tied to trailers, rear up and get their feet caught in buckets.  Most
times the bucket breaks free, or when it doesn't, the horse eventually
thrashes his way loose, but it's not a pretty sight either way.

The important thing for me to remember, is that I can't penalize if my
personal preferences aren't met because it isn't spelled out in the Horse
Management Handbook.  I just use it as a teaching opportunity.  In my
experience, stud chains with bolt snaps will breakaway as easily as a double
ended snap, but it's a much more expensive loss when it does break; $4-$12
versus 85¢.  I've lost a couple nice stud chains that way, luckily I find
that I rarely need them for anything other than the occasional bucket holder
or gate fastener.

So to make a long story short, you are correct.  Anything that hangs the
bucket safely can be used.

Hang 'em high,
Stormy

**********************************************

Hi Stormy,

I have a bit question...  at a rating is a D2 candidate allowed to use a GAG
bit?

Thank you
Lori Moreno, Ratings Coordinator, Deer Creek Pony Club

Hi Lori,

I don't think I'm capable of giving a short answer on the subject of bits.
At least I'll try to be concise!

For D, C, and higher ratings, the candidates must use bits that are in
compliance with the current USPC Eventing Rules for Saddlery and Bitting and
the Horse Management General Rule on Saddlery and Bitting.  For ease of
finding these rules, I'll transcribe them below.

2004 USPC Eventing Rulebook (with 2005 addenda)

D level dressage test (and flat portion of D ratings):
Ds may use a snaffle, pelham or kimberwick bit.  A noseband must be used
with the latter two bits.  All bits must be smooth, with no twists.

C and above level dressage test (and flat portion of C and above ratings):
A snaffle made of metal, leather, rubber or plastic material is permitted
for all tests (see diagram 3a, page 34, 2004 USPC Eventing rulebook for
pictures of permitted bits.)

All levels cross-country and stadium jumping tests (and jumping portions of
all ratings):
The type of saddlery [including bits] is optional....  Reins must be
attached to the bit(s) or directly to the bridle.  Gags or hackamores are
allowed.

2002 USPC Horse Management Handbook (with 2005 addenda)

Applies to all ratings and phases of testings:
Multiple attachment bits: All bits with more than one point of attachment
(i.e. gag, Pessoa, elevators) must have one rein attached so that the
snaffle action of the bit is in effect.  If other bit actions are to be
used, two reins will be required.  At the D level, converters will be
allowed on pelham bits.  If the Pessoa type bit is used, a single rein may
be attached to the first or second ring.  If a third or lower ring is used,
a second rein must be attached higher so that the snaffle action can be in
effect.

So, in answer to your question, at no rating can a person use a gag for the
flat portion of their rating (unless the reins are hooked directly to the
ring, making it a snaffle).  At all levels gags are permitted for jumping as
long as they have a second rein on the snaffle ring.

Have a good rating!
Stormy

**********************************************

Hi Stormy,

I was just reviewing the D1-D3 formal inspection sheet for our "formal
inspection practice" and I have a question.  D3 it says under PONY, neatly
groomed (no sweat or dirt) and then it says well brushed on a separate line.
Is this where your efforts for actually grooming show through in that if you
wash a horse you may remove the sweat and dirt but it doesn't have the same
effect as being well groomed on the quality of coat etc?

For D1 the requirement is neatly brushed and then for D2 it is Well groomed
and then D3 is neatly groomed and well brushed.  What is the difference if
any?  What is the difference between neatly groomed and well groomed and
neatly brushed and well brushed?

Just curious,
Clair Spackman, DC Panache Pony Club

Hi Clair,

Actually, that's a very good question.  The progression of pony cleanliness
for D1-C1 is shown below.  The numbers following each section show the
minimum to maximum number of points the chief horse management judge can
deduct if the requirement isn't met.

D1:
Neatly brushed (0-5)
No loose shavings, burrs, etc., in mane or tail (0-5)

D2:
Clean (no obvious dirt) (0-5)
Well groomed (no obvious sweat) (0-3)
Eyes/nose/lips/dock wiped off (0-4)

D3:
Neatly groomed (no sweat or dirt) (0-3)
Well brushed (0-3)
Eyes/nose/lips/dock wiped off (0-4)

C1:
Well-groomed, reflecting regular care (no sweat or dirt, healthy coat) (0-3)
Little, if any, dandruff (0-2)
External areas around sheath/udder clean (0-2)
Eyes, nose lips, dock clean (0-2)
Mane and tail brushed (0-2)

If you total up all the points per rating (Rider/Pony/Tack) they will always
equal 40, the maximum number of inspection penalties any rider can have.
Because each section must total 40, sometimes the same item will be weighted
differently.  For example, safe tack at the D1 level has a maximum of 10
penalties, while safe tack at D3 only has a maximum of 5 penalties.

My main clue about the differences between ambiguous words like "clean" and
"well groomed" are the words in parentheses.  My own translation of the
different requirements are as follows:

D1's should have made an attempt to brush the pony, but if they happened to
miss some dried sweat or a few mud clumps, they're still at the standard.
They should have gotten all foreign material out of the mane and tail
although they don't necessarily have to have them properly brushed.

D2's should have caught all the obvious mud clumps and dried sweat marks,
but they won't necessarily have bathed the pony.  There will often still be
dirt at the skin level.  If there's really obvious dirt (or dried mud) then
that gets penalized in the "clean" box, and if there's dried sweat, it gets
penalized in the "well groomed" box.  If it's something else (like dried
manure under the belly) I just take my best guess and would probably list it
under "clean" although it could go under "well groomed" instead.  The most
frequent thing I penalize for at this level is when the D2 forgets to wipe
off the eyes, nose, lips, or dock.  Most often, it's because they haven't
been taught at the club meetings that they need to wipe these off.  By doing
practice formal inspections at a few regular meetings using these sheets, it
will better prepare the Pony Clubbers for rallies and ratings.

D3's should have bathed their pony.  There should be very minimal, or no
dirt at the skin level, and they should have brushed the pony well after the
bath so the hair lies naturally.  Again, the eyes, nose, lips, and dock
should have been wiped off.  Obviously, even if something like "no loose
shavings, burrs, etc., in mane or tail" isn't specified at the D2 and D3
levels, they are still expected to meet this requirement.  If a D3 had loose
shavings in his pony's tail, I'd probably penalize it under "well brushed"
although I have to be a little bit careful, because "mane and tail brushed"
doesn't start to be looked for until the C1 level.

C1 is the first level where you actually start evaluating the health and
quality of the horse's coat.  This is where regular currying and good
nutrition start to pay off.  This is also where you start to look for
dandruff (flakes of dead skin cells).  Dandruff can have many causes and
remedies.  Dandruff in the coat is often caused by an insufficient amount of
fats in the horse's diet, bathing too frequently with a strong soap, or not
enough currying massage to properly distribute the oils through the horse's
coat and stimulate the skin pores.  Dandruff in the mane and tail seem to be
caused by the dead skin cells getting trapped in the long hairs.  Weekly (or
more often before a rally or rating) shampooing with a dandruff shampoo
paying special attention to massaging the crest and tailbone will usually be
all it takes to stimulate the skin and free the trapped dandruff.

I'm sure that's more than you needed to know, but it may end up answering
someone else's question in the meantime.

Thanks for helping them practice,
Stormy

**********************************************

I am confused about German Silver bits, Aurigan, sweet iron, and other
copper alloy bits. How do we know they taste good to a horse? Oxidation
is a very strong reaction. Couldn't the salivation be a sign that the
bit tastes bad? I know if I put something copper in my mouth, I will
salivate, but it is because the copper tastes terrible. I used a KK bit
on my quarter horse once, and he salivated so much, the spit reached all
the way to the ground! I got the impression he really wanted to get the
thing out of his mouth. Is there any good scientific information on the
subject? Just curious.
Thanks.

Sue via the Internet

Hi Sue,

I totally agree with you.  The only evidence we have that the copper alloy
bits "taste good" to the horse is anecdotal.  The reason we want the horse
to salivate with a bit is so that their mouth isn't dry enough that the bit
causes friction rubs.  Once this level of salivation is achieved, more
salivation isn't necessarily better, in fact, it can be worse.  I will share
some evidence at the end.

Personally, I have never seen a horse that didn't salivate enough with a
neutral stainless steel bit although I'm sure there are horses who may not.
I watch more closely for lack of salivation with rubber, plastic or aluminum
bits, but again, I personally have never noticed a problem.

I'd like to share my own most recent anecdotal evidence.  I have a horse in
training who started to strongly object to a mild oval mouth stainless steel
snaffle about a month after being started (as a 3 year old).  He would not
want to be bridled, and then after that struggle, he would incessantly chew
and fuss with the bit throughout the ride.  Luckily for both of us, just
before he turned, 4 while doing research for the bit video, I discovered the
Bitless Bridle.  He excelled at going bitless but since I wanted to show him
in dressage, I knew I would have to put him back in some form of snaffle
eventually (or get those darned rules changed!).  His owner bought him an
Eggbutt Aurigan KK Ultra which I put over the Bitless Bridle and used with a
second set of reins.  Again, he objected at first but now, nearly two years
later, he is easy to bridle and holds the bit quietly in his mouth.  I am
convinced that it wasn't so much the material of the bit, but the fact that
during the beginning of his training when I still needed to use a lot of
rein to steer and control him, he could find no relief from the bit.  By
using the bit and the Bitless Bridle together, I could show him that the bit
wasn't meant to cause pain but to add an element of refinement.

Sprenger, the company responsible for producing original German Silver and
now Aurigan bits has the following to say on the subject.  [Exerpted from
the booklet "Leading with Feeling" by Brigitten Schulte and Heinz Baumann.]

"In 1980 different materials were tested at the German Riding School.  The
results found that horses with no mouth problems had no difficulty in
changing from a stainless steel to a German Silver bit.  But when a German
Silver bit was replaced by a stainless steel bit the horse needed 2-3 days
to accept the new bit.

Then we tested both bits on horses with mouth problems and found that a lot
of horses using the German Silver bit began to chew and became relaxed.
This was a very positive reaction."

The next excerpt is from the same book but it is in regards to the metal
Aurigan.

"Horses seem to really like Aurigan.  Oxidation gives off an odor and
Aurigan smells much stronger than German Silver bits, so much so that it is
noticeable to even the less sensitive human nose.  Horses like this specific
pleasing smell and taste.

A series of tests were made.  The results were even better than those
achieved with German Silver bits.  Aurigan oxidizes very rapidly."

The tests they refer to in the last paragraph, were ones done in a climatic
chamber to test how quickly the metal oxidizes, not how well the horses
accept the bits.

Now here's the other side of the story.  Dr. Robert Cook, FRCVS., PhD.,
Professor of Surgery Emeritus of Tufts University has done extensive
research about the effects of the bit on a horse.  Dr. Cook is also
responsible for marketing the Bitless Bridle.

Author Pam Whitfield sums up some of Dr. Cooks findings as follows:

"Cook is ... the first to recognize that a bit sets up a physiological
conflict.  Anything that is placed in the mouth, a body cavity dedicated to
digestion, triggers digestive system reflexes.  Whether it be food or a
foreign body, it signals the horse to 'think eat'.  Accordingly, it
stimulates relaxation, quiet breathing and salivation, together with
movement of the lips, tongue, soft palate and jaw.  'But now' he says "we
put the horse in motion, and we also signal the horse to 'think exercise.'
We are asking the horse to eat and exercise simultaneously, something that
nature never intended. For exercise, the horse needs to be energized;
breathe deeply; have a relatively dry mouth; and a stationary soft palate.
The respiratory pathway should be active and the digestive pathway passive.
But with a bit in its mouth, the horse is neurologically confused. It has
evolved to either graze or gallop, not both at the same time. No wonder that
racehorses choke under pressure ('flip their soft palates') and have
difficulty breathing". Cook sums up this contradiction with the maxim "To
put a bit in the mouth of a horse that is about to run, is akin to putting a
muzzle on a horse that is about to eat."

[See Whitfield's complete article here:
http://www.bitlessbridle.com/spotlight.html]

Dr. Cook himself writes: "Bit-induced salivation also disturbs respiration.
This is yet another manifestation of the physiological contraindication that
is invoked by expecting a horse to Œeat¹ and Œexercise¹ simultaneously.
Under these conditions, parasympathetic and sympathetic nervous systems are
both vying for dominance. Contrary to long-standing belief, horses at
exercise should have a relatively dry mouth (sympathetic dominance). Excess
quantities of saliva in the oropharynx might precipitate a true swallowing
movement or a laryngeal spasm as a result of saliva creeping into the
larynx. We are all aware that saliva is an irritant to the human laryngeal
mucosa. The horse has a larynx that is relatively unresponsive to physical
stimuli (e.g., the stomach tube) but perhaps it still responds to chemical
stimuli."

[See Cook's complete article here:
http://www.bitlessbridle.com/article6.html]

My best advice would be to observe your own horse closely and listen to what
he tells you.  If your experience of using an Aurigan bit was excessive
saliva and the impression that he wanted it out of his mouth, then there you
have it.

Straight from the horse's mouth!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! Horse Owners Field Guide to Toxic
Plants
*******************************************************************

Horse Owner's Field Guide to Toxic Plants by Sandra Burger

This book is the one that I've seen Pony Club examiners using most often as
their own reference book when testing toxic plant sections.

A California reviewer from the amazon.com website writes:

This book is very valuable as a reference to a horse owner. The pictures are
good, and each entry contains a description of possible symptoms and
treatments (which I assume are correct). As a diagnostic, this book seems
very useful and something you should have around.

However, as a new pasture owner, I found it incredibly alarmist. So much so
that I almost wanted to take my horses back to the boarding stable so I
could stop worrying my pretty head about plants. Ha!

Practically every plant that has ever been known to harm a horse is listed,
which means that the book is overwhelming. Some of the toxicities are mild
and very uncommon, but the text is thick enough that it is difficult to
determine whether the plant is likely to be dangerous without close reading.
Clover is listed next to locoweed. In some cases, the plant listed is not
itself toxic, but it tends to attract toxic fungi, as in the case of fescue.
However, when reading the entries, they all have scary-sounding symptoms. It
is difficult to ascertain under even a close reading whether the plant in
question is really dangerous. There's a difference in my mind between "a
nibble will be a life-or-death situation" and "symptoms will disappear if
you remove the plant from the diet," and that difference is not readily
apparent in the listings.

This book would be much improved if plants that were especially dangerous -
plants that are acutely toxic in minute quantities and plants that are
especially likely to be eaten in toxic quantities - were more obviously
called out. I would love to have a quick icon at the top that tells me
"Deadly - remove from pasture using any means necessary" or "Potential
Problem" or "Not Likely to cause serious problems." This triage would allow
me as an owner to concentrate my first efforts on learning to identify and
eradicate the most dangerous plants, rather than being distracted by fescue
and clover.

I'm glad that plants that can but usually don't cause problems, like fescue
and clover, are listed. It's very useful when trying to diagnose a horse
that's not quite right, and if they were omitted, the horse owner might
incorrectly assume that the diet was not the issue. I would just like to see
them flagged differently or perhaps included in an appendix rather than
mixed in with the truly deadly plants that have no margin for error.

As it stands it is better as a reference for answering specific questions
than as a book you can just read through when contemplating several acres of
plants or potential plants.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

These are the best websites I've seen yet on toxic plants.  They have enough
information to get you all the way through the HA rating.  On the first
site, you can search toxic plants by alphabetical plant listing, toxicity
rating, species affected, or botanical type.  For each toxic plant it lists
how toxic it is, which animals may be affected, what parts of the plant are
dangerous, what signs of toxicity you would see, as well as a photograph and
line drawing of each plant.  The second site is from the University of
Cornell and has an exhaustive listing of poisonous plants including multiple
pictures of each plant.  It also includes links to great questions and
answers about each plant.

http://vet.purdue.edu/depts/addl/toxic/cover1.htm

http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/index.html

************************************************

Links to more photographs of many toxic plants:

http://www.library.uiuc.edu/vex/toxic/comlist.htm

************************************************

Article focusing on toxic plants in feeds.

http://horse.purinamills.com/bulletins/info_Plants.htm

************************************************

Another great article, especially focusing on specific symptoms of toxic
poisoning in a horse if they eat each plant.

http://www.whmentors.org/saf/poison.html

************************************************

Sometimes we just need to laugh at ourselves...found via the internet:

THE BACK YARD RIDER:  Usually found wearing shorts and a sports bra in the
summer;  flannel nightgown, muck boots, and down jacket in the winter.
Drives a Ford 150 filled with saddle blankets and dog hair.  Most have
deformed toes from being stepped on while wearing flip-flops.  Has a
two-horse bumper-pull trailer, but uses it for hay storage, as her horse
hasn't been off the farm in 6 years.  Can install an electric fence, set a
gate, and roll a round bale, solo.  Rode well and often when she used to
board her horse, 5 years ago.  Took horse home to "save money" and has spent
about 50 grand on acreage, barn, fence, tractor, etc.  Has two topics of
conversation- 1)  How it's too hot/cold/wet/dry to ride.  And 2)  How she
may ride after she fixes the fence/digs drainage ditches/stacks 4 tons of
hay.


THE NATURAL HORSEMANSHIP DEVOTEE:  Looks like a throwback from a Texas
ranch, despite the fact that he lives in the suburbs of New Jersey.  Rope
coiled loosely in hand in case he needs to herd any of those kids on
roller-blades away from his F-350 dually in the Wal-Mart parking lot. Cowboy
hat strategically placed, and just dirty enough to look cool.  Levi's are
well worn.  "Lightning" is, of course, this natural horsemanship guy's
horse.  Rescued from a bad home where he was never imprinted or broke in the
natural horsemanship way, he specialized in running down his owners at
feeding time, knocking children off his back on low-hanging branches, and
baring his teeth.  The hospitalization tally for his previous handlers was
12, until he was sent to Round Pen Randy;  after ten minutes in said pen, he
is now a totally broke horse, bowing to the crowd, and can put on his own
splint boots. (with R.P. Randy's trademark logo embossed on them)  R.P.R.
says, of all this, "Well, shucks ma'am, tweren't nuthin'!"  "It's simple
horsemanship."  "With this special twirly flickitatin' rope ($17.95 plus
tax), you'll be round-pennin' like me in no time!"


THE ENDURANCE RIDER:  Wears Lycra tights in wild neon colors.  The shinier
the better, so the EMT's can find her body when her horse dumps her down a
ravine.  Wears hiking shoes of some sort, and T-shirts she got for paying
$75 to complete another torturous ride.  Her horse, Al Kamar Shazam, used to
be called "you bastard" until he found an owner almost as hyper as he is.
Shazam can spook at a blowing leaf, spin a 360, and not lose his big trot
rhythm or give an inch to the horse behind him.  Has learned to eat, drink,
pee, and drop to his resting pulse rate on command.  He has compiled 3,450
AERC miles;  his rider compiled 3,445 (the missing five miles are the ones
when he raced down the trail without his rider after performing his
trademark 360.  Over-heard frequently:  "Anyone have Advil?"  "Anyone got
some food?  I think last year's Twinkies went bad."  "For this pain I spend
money?" "Shazam, you bastard-it's just a leaf [thud]!"


THE HUNTER RIDER:  Is slightly anorexic and trying her best to achieve the
conformation of a 17-year-old male in case she ever has a clinic with George
Morris.  Field marks include greeny-beige breeches and a baseball cap when
schooling or mud colored coat and hardhat with dangling chin strap when
competing.  Forks over about a grand a month to trainer for the privilege of
letting him/her "tune" up the horse, which consists of drilling the beast
until its going to put in five strides on a 60 foot line no matter WHAT she
does.  Sold the Thoroughbred (and a collection of lunging equipment,
chambons, side reins) and bought a Warmblood. (bought a ladder and a LONG
set of spurs)  Talks a lot about the horse's success in Florida without
exactly letting on that she herself has never been south of the Pennsylvania
line.


THE DRESSAGE QUEEN:  Has her hair in an elegant ponytail and is wearing a
visor and gold earrings sporting a breed logo.  A $100 dollar custom jumper
(also with breed logo) is worn over $300 dollar full-seat white breeches and
custom Koenigs.  Her horse, "Leistergeidelsprundheim" ("Fleistergeidel" for
short) is a 17.3-hand warmblood who was bred to be a Grand Prix horse.  The
Germans are still laughing hysterically, as he was bred to be a Grand Prix
JUMPER, but as he couldn't get out of his own way, they sold him to an
American.  His rider fell in love with his lofty gaits, proud carriage, and
tremendous athleticism.  She admires mostly while lunging.  She lunges him a
lot, because she ! is not actually to keen to get up there and try to SIT
that trot.  When she rides, it's not for long, because (while he looks FINE
to everyone else), she can tell that he is not as "through" and "supple" as
he should be, and gets off to call the chiropractor/massage
therapist/psychic, all of which is expensive, but he WILL be shown, and
shown right after he perfects (fill in the blank).  The blank changes often
enough that the rider can avoid the stress of being beaten at Training 1 by
a Quarter Horse.


THE EVENTER:  Is bent over from carrying three saddles, three bridles, three
bits, and three unrelated sets of clothing (four, if she is going to have to
do a trot up at a 3-Day)   The hunched defensive posture is reinforced by
the anticipation of "a long one" a ditch and a wall, and from living in her
back protector.  Perpetually broke because she pays THREE coaches ( a
Dressage Queen, a jumper rider, and her eventing guru, none of whom approve
of the other) and pay trailers/stabling/living expenses to go 600 miles to
events that are spread out over 5 days.  She is smugly convinced that
Eventers are in fact the only people in the world who CAN ride (since
Dressage Queen's don't jump, the H/J crowd is to afraid to go OUT of a ring,
and the fox hunters-a related breed-don't have to deal with dressage judges)
.  Hat cover on cross-country helmet is secured with a giant rubber band, so
she can look like her idol, Phillip.  Her horse, (who has previously been
rejected as a race horse, a steeplechase horse-got ruled off for jumping
into the in field tailgating the crowd- a jumper, a fox hunter, and a polo
pony (no bit stops this thing) has two speeds:  gallop and "no gallop" (also
known as stop 'n' dump) .  Excels at over jumping into water, doing a head
first "tuck and roll" maneuver and exiting the complex ! (catch me if you
can!) before his rider slogs out of the pond.  Often stops to lick the
Crisco off his legs before continuing gaily on to the merciless oxer jump
just ahead.  Owner often threatens to sell, but as he has flunked out of
every other English-riding discipline, it will have to be to a barrel racer.

[Oh my!  I'm a Back Yard Natural Eventing Dressage Queen!]

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Tack Adjustment
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 12 section 5: Tack Adjustment

The USPC understands that Examiners/CHMJs/Instructors will make tack
adjustments concerning youth member's safety.  When it is a matter of safety
to tighten a girth or adjusting stirrup length, do so and make sure the
child understands why it is being done.

When it is a matter of adjusting tack, which may affect the safety of the
situation or the child's control, this may only be done in consultation with
the child.  You should discuss with the child the reasons for the adjusted
fit.  Any adjustment must be made ONLY with an explanation as to why it
needs to be made, keeping in mind that there may be a valid safety reason
for an unusual adjustment ("My coach told me to," or "I always do this," are
not necessarily valid reasons).  The final say, however, rests with the
CHMJ/Examiner/Instructor.

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Demystifying medical terms
2) Recommended products and services: Biodiesel
3) Rally and rating tips: Stübben Hammanol
4) Questions and answers: half chaps, topical agent, hay bags, and more on
bits
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Pilates: Body in Motion by Alycea
Ungaro
6) Fun and educational websites: Sport Pony Magazine, USPC News, tack of the
day
7) Featured rule: Footwear unmounted and mounted
8) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Feature: Demystifying medical terms
*******************************************************************

Do you know what's actually wrong with your horse if he has
encephalomyelitis?  Don't let the fancy name throw you off.  For example, if
you strain something in your arm and the doctor examines it, she might say
gravely "Ahhh, you have tendonitis."  It sounds like something that took
years of medical school to be able to diagnose, but basically, she just said
that you have a swollen tendon.  (Anything ending in "-itis" means
inflammation.)  Another common example in humans is scoliosis.  It sounds
like some dreaded disease but if we look at the root word (scoli: crooked,
curved) and the suffix (-osis: abnormal condition) basically the only thing
that the doctor said, is that the person's spine is more curved than normal.

Many of the root words, prefixes, and suffixes used in medical terminology
come from Latin, a language that is no longer in everyday use.  It might be
easier to understand if the doctor just said, "You have a swollen tendon, or
a crooked spine." but one of the important reasons that medical
professionals have developed their own language is so doctors from different
countries can come together and all agree to use the same terms for these
conditions and diseases.  The important thing is to not let these terms
dazzle or intimidate you.

Let's take a look at a few of these roots, prefixes, and suffixes.

Some root words:

arteri: having to do with the arteries
arthr: joint
bacteri: bacteria
bi: life
encephal: having to do with the brain
enter: having to do with the intestines
lamin: having to do with the laminae (laminae are little tubules that keep
the hoof wall connected to the coffin bone, and our fingernails connected to
our fingers)
lith: stone
melan: black
myel: having to do with the bone marrow; spinal cord
ophthalm: having to do with the eye
pneum or pneumon: having to do with air and the lungs
rhin: having to do with the nose

Two common prefixes:

a- or an-: without or absence of
anti: against

Some suffixes:

-al: pertaining to
-emia: blood condition
-ia: condition of diseased or abnormal state
-ic: pertaining to
-itis: inflammation
-oma: benign tumor
-trophy: nourishment

Now let's have some fun!  Here are ten words you might come across when
learning about horses.  See if you can use the prefixes, suffixes, and roots
above to figure out exactly what they mean (answers at the end of the
newsletter):

rhinopneumonitis
encephalomyelitis
laminitis
arthritis
melanoma
anemia (as in Equine Infectious Anemia or EIA)
enterolith
arteritis (as in Equine Viral Arteritis or EVA)
opthalmia (as in periodic opthalmia or moon blindness)
atrophy

If this topic interests you, find the meanings of many more roots, prefixes
and suffixes at this website:
http://www.gen.umn.edu/faculty_staff/jensen/1135/medterms/default.html

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Biodiesel
*******************************************************************

Many people tow their trailers with diesel trucks, but have you spent much
time following diesel vehicles on the freeway?  The toxic fumes are almost
overwhelming for me.  I can't imagine how it must be for a horse that can't
escape them in the trailer.  Now there's an alternative.  Want your horse to
smell the aroma of french fries instead while at the same time saving the
environment?  Fill up with biodiesel!

The following are some questions and answers about biodiesel from the
www.biodiesel.org website.

What is biodiesel?
Biodiesel is the name of a clean burning alternative fuel, produced from
domestic, renewable resources. Biodiesel contains no petroleum, but it can
be blended at any level with petroleum diesel to create a biodiesel blend.
It can be used in compression-ignition (diesel) engines with little or no
modifications. Biodiesel is simple to use, biodegradable, nontoxic, and
essentially free of sulfur and aromatics.

Biodiesel is better for the environment because it is made from renewable
resources and has lower emissions compared to petroleum diesel. It is less
toxic than table salt and biodegrades as fast as sugar. Since it is made in
the USA from renewable resources such as soybeans, its use decreases our
dependence on foreign oil and contributes to our own economy.

Can I use biodiesel in my existing diesel engine?
Biodiesel can be operated in any diesel engine with little or no
modification to the engine or the fuel system. Biodiesel has a solvent
effect that may release deposits accumulated on tank walls and pipes from
previous diesel fuel storage. The release of deposits may clog filters
initially and precautions should be taken. Ensure that only fuel meeting the
biodiesel specification is used.

Where can I purchase biodiesel?
Biodiesel can be made available anywhere in the US. The National Biodiesel
Board (NBB) maintains a list of registered fuel marketers. A current list is
available on the biodiesel web site at www.biodiesel.org or by calling the
NBB at (800) 841-5849.

For those of you in California, there are public biodiesel fueling stations
in the following cities:

Martinez
Berkeley
Redding
Cudahy
Santa Barbara
Goleta
Santa Cruz
Concord
Hopland
Garberville
San Diego
Santa Rosa
Ventura
Laytonville
Monterey
Ventura
San Jose
Ukiah

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Stübben Hammanol for leather conditioning
*******************************************************************

At a recent C3 proficiency assessment, Jordan Janis, C2 member of Shasta
Pony club came with an impeccable turn-out for both herself and her horse.
The horse's hooves were oiled, not a speck of dandruff in the jet black mane
or tail, and the tack was the most supple I have ever experienced (and I've
felt a lot of tack).  Deer Creek DC, Margie Mooy described it as "buttery
soft."  I had to know what Jordan's secret weapon was.  Jordan admitted that
she conditioned all her tack on a regular basis with Stübben Hammanol.
That's enough of a recommendation for me!  Hammanol is available through the
Dover (www.doversaddlery.com) and many other online and real-life tack
stores.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Stormy, Oh Guru of all things Horse Managementy,
We are having a non-qualifying dressage rally, with lots of new D'sykins.
The formal sheets say that clean, neat, safe attire is the accepted.  Does
that include half chaps and appropriate boots?  Also, even though we
announce it lots of times, lots of clubs come with Furacin for the anti/3
ointment.  It is usually especially gross, too--hay, dirt,  blood, horse
parts.  Does it just take awhile to educate?

Marcy Neher, HMO Inland Empire

Hi Marcy,

Let's take this from the top...

Ok, half chaps at a non-qualifying dressage rally.  I refer back to what
Wayne Quarles wrote on the Pony Club website (go to www.ponyclub.org, forms
section, Frequently Asked Questions - Activities).

"Regarding the use of half chaps, in competition, the only place where half
chaps are allowed is in Polocrosse.  Again, we are stating that for
qualifying rallies and at championships, they are not permitted, except in
Polocrosse.

While they are not encouraged for all mounted activities, they may be used
for lessons.

At ratings of C or higher, they are not appropriate for either formal or
informal attire.

At D ratings and rallies, the DC may deem them appropriate.

Half chaps are not recommended for games with the vaulting on and off the
ponies.

It should be noted that using half chaps with riding sneakers are not felt
appropriate.  Riding sneakers do not have the depth of heel to ensure that
the strap would stay in place.  As with all equipment, half chaps should be
in good repair and safe.  A worn and stretched piece of elastic on a half
chap is as unsafe as worn stitching on a stirrup leather."

So, my interpretation is that in your situation, if the DC of the individual
clubs say that the D's they are sending to the dressage rally may wear half
chaps, then they cannot be penalized for it.  As a half chap lover myself, I
would  still discourage D's from wearing them at the dressage rally because
they are specifically forbidden in the dressage rulebook.   I would prefer
them to wear something that would be legal at a recognized dressage show
(jodhpurs with jodhpur boots and elastic straps or garters, or tall boots)
so they get used to the feel of riding without the half chaps, and they
don't pass on misinformation to other Pony Clubbers and other dressage
competitors.

On to the question about the topical antibacterial/antimicrobial/antibiotic
agent required in the equine first aid kit.  Let's start by defining the
terms.  First of all, the "/" symbol in medical terminology means "or" so
the topical agent you use needs to say on the packaging that it is either
antibacterial, antimicrobial, or antibiotic (or any combination of the
three).

Antimicrobial literally means "pertaining to against microbes".

An antimicrobial is a substance that that kills or slows the growth of
microbes such as bacteria (antibacterial activity), fungi (antifungal
activity), viruses (antiviral activity), or parasites (antiparasitic
activity).

Antibiotic literally means "pertaining to against life".

"An antibiotic is a drug that kills or slows the growth of bacteria.  They
are relatively harmless to the host, and therefore can be used to treat
infections.  Antibiotics are not effective in viral, fungal and other
nonbacterial infections, and individual antibiotics vary widely in their
effectiveness on various types of bacteria."
(excerpted from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antibiotic)

Antibacterial literally means "pertaining to against bacteria".

"In its broadest definition, an antibacterial is an agent that interferes
with the growth and reproduction of bacteria. While antibiotics and
antibacterials both attack bacteria, these terms have evolved over the years
to mean two different things. Antibacterials are now most commonly described
as agents used to disinfect surfaces and eliminate potentially harmful
bacteria. Unlike antibiotics, they are not used as medicines for humans or
animals, but are found in products such as soaps, detergents, health and
skincare products and household cleaners."
(excerpted from: http://www.tufts.edu/med/apua/Q&A/Q&A_antibacterials.html)

Long story short, antimicrobial is a general term for something that kills
or interferes with bacteria, fungi, viruses, or parasites.  Antibacterial
just kills or interferes with bacteria, and is most often used when talking
about disinfecting surfaces.  Antibiotic also means it kills or interferes
with bacteria, but the term is more often used when describing a medication
for a human or animal.  So, if you're washing your hands, you might use an
antibacterial soap, but if you're applying an ointment to a wound it would
probably be an antibiotic ointment.

I know a lot of us have been educating the kids that Furacin is usually not
the best choice for an antibacterial/antimicrobial/antibiotic agent in the
equine first aid kit.  Furacin (generic name: Nitrofurazone) is sold as an
antibacterial agent that is most useful for infected burns and infections
due to skin grafts.  At one of the last Chief Horse Management Judge's
seminars, Donald McLean reported that the latest research showed that for
the types of minor cuts or wounds that Pony Clubbers might encounter,
Furacin actually slowed healing in many cases.  He recommended many
alternatives, the most common of which is a triple antibiotic ointment such
as Neosporin®.  The topical agent needs to be enough to supply a team of 4
horses, so the little tube of triple antibiotic ointment in the human first
aid kit will probably not be a sufficient quantity to satisfy most horse
management judges.  Practically speaking, in an emergency situation that you
might need triple antibiotic ointment for all 4 horses, one full tube would
probably do the trick.  However, if you want to be sure not to lose any
horse management points, get 2-4 tubes and double check that they have a
current expiration date!

One last word on the subject, often people have "Corona®" ointment as their
topical antibacterial/antimicrobial/antibiotic agent.  Corona® is labeled as
an "antiseptic" which as far as I can tell from the definition below, means
exactly the same as "antimicrobial".

"An antiseptic is a substance that kills or prevents the growth and
reproduction of various microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa,
and viruses on the external surfaces of the body. The objective of
antiseptics is to reduce the possibility of sepsis or infection by germs.
Antibacterials have the same objective but only act against bacteria.
antibiotics perform a similar function, preventing the growth or
reproduction of bacteria within the body.  Disinfectants operate on
nonliving objects such as medical instruments."
(excerpted from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiseptic)

Despite the fact that antiseptic and antimicrobial are similar terms, you
may get into trouble with Corona® for two reasons.  First, Corona® ointment
as far as I can tell doesn't have an expiration date (all medications are
required to have a current expiration date).  Second, since it doesn't
specifically say "antibacterial, antimicrobial, or antibiotic" on the label,
many horse management judges have been told that it isn't acceptable.  At
this point I just throw up my hands and call it a night.

Be antimicrobial,
Stormy

*************************************************

Hello Stormy,

At a recent Everything But the Horse Rally, we had a question come up about
hay nets. In pony club, are hay nets and hay bags equal in terms of HM?  I
know the HM Rulebook refers to hay nets, and says they prefer cotton to
synthetic, but can we use hay bags (they seem safer (in terms of horse's
getting stuck in the net) and tidier (less hay drops onto the ground).

Thanks!
Susan Ferreira, former DC, Devil Mountain PC


Hi Susan,

Great question!  I haven't heard any official word from national about hay
nets vs. hay bags and there isn't any difference noted in the HM handbook so
here is how I handle it at rallies and at home.  The HM handbook says that
hay nets must be hung so that even when empty, the lowest point is above the
point of the horse's shoulder.  This is so the horse can't get a foot caught
in it.  When properly hanging a hay net, the competitor should run the long
tie rope over what they are tying to, then down through the bottom of the
hay net, and then pull it together so the top and bottom are both at the top
and tie in a quick release knot.  All of this is described in the USPC D
manual pages 179-180.  Hay bags serve the same purpose, but since there is
only one large hole that the horse could possibly get caught in, it is much
safer than a hay net (and as you've noticed, less hay is wasted).  I always
ask that competitors hang the hay bag so that the bottom of the hay opening
is above the point of the horse's shoulder.  It also mentions in the D
manual that the hay net (or bag) shouldn't be tied to the same ring that the
horse is tied to.  "If he should pull back and pull the ring loose, the hay
net would be attached to his halter rope and could scare him."  When working
with trailers at a one day rally, often there is only one spot available to
tie both horse and hay.  Practically speaking, when tied to a trailer, the
horse's breakaway halter or snap would break before they pull the trailer
apart so I'm not sure how valid that concern is.

Keep the hay in the bag,
Stormy

*************************************************

Hi, I have a TB, 7 yrs old, gelding, he is an ex-racehorse who for the last
3 yrs has been trained (really well) for english pleasure/hunter/jumper.  He
is great, he is also 16H and powerful.

He is and has been always on a snaffle bridle with a basic snaffle D ring or
full cheek, single jointed snaffle.  He will pick up a trot, canter at the
word and sometimes needing a slight and I mean slight leg pressure (never
needs a kick or crop)....he is always willing...but sometimes a little too
willing.

Occassionally he will start to pull and little and when cantering,
especially to the left.  With other horses in front of him, he will speed up
and continue to gain speed.  I (37 yr old who has been riding most of my
life) can hold him and using my seat and some reins get him to control his
speed and bring him back, once in control he will continue usually at a good
pace.

On trail he has been wonderful, sound, sane, not spooky or unpredictable.
But again, occasionally like the other day, the trail ride was a little
windy, the clouds were coming in, the weather was changing and we took a
trail that ended up having a lot of things going on with it, dogs, runners,
joggers, bikes, etc...all of which he handled find with a soothing word or
two and leg and seat firm...but then he either saw something that the other
horses didn't or heard something, and he was all of the sudden, turning, and
trying to head home, he clearly was spooked and uneasy about it...so knowing
I can't fight nor should I try too, I brought him around and around circling
him, so he wouldn't rear up or buck or run, I talked to him and when he
started backing up and ears were just not listening to me and he was side
stepping, I gave him his head a little bit and allowed him to move forward
which was now in the direction of the barn....once I allowed that he kept
picking up and trying to start a fast trot and if I had given him any rein
it would have been a canter/run...I had to hold him respectively well the
entire ride home until he could see and hear the barn and whatever was
bothering him was long gone.  I have a 10 yr old daughter who also rides him
and he is wonderful with her.  He doesn't pull too much with her...but since
I know he can get racey and fast, being his nature, I don't want to punish
him for it certainly, but I want him to respect both us and when she pulls
back it has to get his attention.

I can play with the reins and alternate getting him playing with the bit and
his attention and then half halt him alternating reins to slow him, but I am
afraid my daughter might be too inexperienced to do that in an emergency or
occasion like the trail ride the other day.

So my question is, several people suggested that I get a kimberwick bit
staying with the single rein, just adding the curb chain to the snaffle for
additional brakes.

But my instructor said to try a simple snaffle slow twist, full check, so
that he is just going from a snaffle to a slow twist no other changes...this
way with light hands it shouldn't affect him unless we need too.  What is
your suggestion?

Shauna via the Internet

Hello Shauna,

You gave a great description of the situation.  The ideal solution is to
find something that gives you more control without adding more pain.  It's a
double edged sword with a bit, because more control usually means more pain
for the horse, and more pain can stop them quickly or make the horse "lose
his mind" and bolt because of the pain.

The best way to control a horse, is to control his mind.  As I'm sure you
know, this is done through quiet, consistent, and correct training.  It
sounds like you are already able to achieve this with your current bit when
you are riding.

With all the Pony Club work that I do, I often see children that are
overmounted, or on horses that may be appropriate at home, but who are "an
accident waiting to happen" in new situations.  It is not fair to the horse
or the budding rider to put them in these situations if you already have a
feeling that something might happen that the child can't handle, or can't
handle without a lot of hardware in the horse's mouth.  A 10 year old on a 7
year old ex-racehorse doesn't sound like the best combination in
unpredictable situations.  My first instinct is to keep her in calm,
supervised environment on your horse until her strength and skills are
strong enough that you don't worry about how she will handle the unexpected.

That said, you may also want to experiment with a kimberwick.  The Uxeter
kimberwick will give you 3 different places to put the reins.  You can put
them through the whole ring for the mildest snaffle effect, in the top slot
for a very slight curb effect, and the lower slot for more of a curb effect.
Personally, I don't like kimberwicks with jointed mouthpieces in most
situations.  If the lower slots are being used along with direct reining,
the bit will collapse in the horse's mouth and the inside bit ring will put
pressure on the horse's face, often confusing them and leading to head
tossing.  If your boy is tolerant (like it sounds he is), he probably
wouldn't object too much and you might find that the trade off between more
control and pain is worth your daughter's safety.  You could also try an
Uxeter kimberwick with a low port unjointed mouthpiece.  We often associate
unjointed bits with severe Western curbs, but a low port kimberwick is
actually milder than a jointed kimberwick, it won't collapse with direct
reining, and they both have curb chains.

If you are looking for another bit for yourself, I would suggest trying a
pelham with two reins.  Two reins are usually too much for a 10 year old to
handle correctly, but for you, it would offer a way to have the option of
using a snaffle or mild curb depending on the situation.  Again, if you are
direct reining with a jointed pelham's curb rein, the bit will collapse and
may confuse the horse.  If you use the curb reins correctly though, just for
longitudinally rebalancing the horse (not laterally softening), you might
find it a very useful bit.

I would definitely not recommend any type of twisted mouthpiece, even a slow
twist.  This style never gives the horse any relief.  Even when you aren't
using the reins, it still pulls against the horse's lips.  It may feel that
you have more control at first, but as the horse's bars, lips, and tongue
start to get deadened to the ridges on the bit, you'll end up with an
unresponsive horse.

Keep up the good training,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************
From Clair Spackman, DC Panache Pony Club

I recently bought a couple of books about Pilates.  One I particularly like
is called "Pilates: Body in Motion" by Alycea Ungaro.  As I was reading it
last night I thought that what it talks about really ties into the work you
do.

Here is a direct link to it on the amazon.com website:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0789484005/qid=1113842129/sr=2-2/ref=
pd_bbs_b_2_2/102-2473026-3090516

The author talks about the need for focus and concentration, being detail
oriented, paying attention to what your body is saying etc.  Also many of
the beginning exercises would I think be useful to riders.  For example
there is one where you are lying on you back on the floor with one leg in
the air drawing a circle with your toe in the air while making sure that
your hip does not move off the floor.  If not exactly similar to the
movements we make when riding, the thought process is very much the same as
for example having to try to move your outside leg back without your upper
body tipping forward etc.  The exercises in this book are identical to those
that I am doing in the Pilates class that I do, although we do a few
non-Pilates variations too.  Therefore this book would probably be one that
you could use at home even if you didn't have someone you were working with.

Interestingly enough Pilates called his method controlology i.e. being in
control of your body.  As I think about it, you can not be in "control" of
your horse if you are not in control of you own body parts.  Expecting
finessed movements from your horse requires finessed movements from the
rider and the ability to control your own balance and movements.  Doing
Pilates exercises might be very useful to young riders who would have to
think about how they move their body without having to try and deal with the
movement of the horse.

Stormy's note: This book received 5 out of 5 stars in 34 online reviews,
looks like it's a winner!

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

I'd like to offer a big welcome to Sport Pony Magazine, an online magazine
based in Canada.  Stay tuned for some of the Horse Management Newsletter
articles to show up in this magazine!

http://www.sportponycanada.com/magazine

************************************************

The second listing isn't a website, but for those of you in the United
States Pony Club organization, be sure to look at your Spring 2005 issue of
USPC news.  There are fantastic articles in there about botulism, rabies,
tetanus, feeding the boarded horse, and equine insurance.

************************************************

Tack of the Day is a cute division of the Bit Of Britain tack company.
Every day during the week they put up a new item at noon at substantial
discount.  The best part though are their hilarious descriptions of the
items.  The current item for this weekend (available through Monday, May 2nd
at 11:59am Eastern time) are Sigma Competition Full Seat Breeches... only
$44.00!

Log on quick at: www.tackoftheday.com

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Footwear, mounted and unmounted
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 32 section 21 B: Footwear while
unmounted

When unmounted, acceptable footwear is a shoe that is securely fastened,
entirely closed, covers the ankle, thick-soled and in good condition.
Totally canvas or cloth shoes of any kind are not allowed.  A sturdy leather
shoe or boot is recommended.

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 33 section 22 C: Footwear while mounted

While riding, a conventional type of riding footwear with a heel, such as
leather or rubber or rubber riding boots, jodhpur boots, or the equivalent,
is required.  "Waffle" type soles are not allowed.

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

Answers to the medical terminology quiz:

rhinopneumonitis: an inflammation of the lungs, nose, and air passages

encephalomyelitis: an inflammation of the brain and spinal cord

laminitis: an inflammation of the laminae

arthritis: the inflammation of a joint

melanoma: a black, benign tumor (commonly found under the tails of grey
horses)

anemia: a condition of having not enough blood (or blood that doesn't carry
nutrients properly)

enterolith: a stone in the intestines

arteritis: an inflammation of the blood vessels (a symptom of EVA is swollen
legs because the horse's blood vessels aren't functioning properly to return
fluids to the heart)

opthalmia: a diseased condition of the eye

atrophy: a condition of not having enough nourishment (a term usually used
when talking about muscles, when they lack nourishment they get smaller, or
"atrophy".)

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Saddle fit demystified!
2) Questions and answers: peacocks and bitless options
3) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: The Classical Seat
4) Fun and educational websites: hoofcare and riding comfort
5) Featured rule: Use of Equine Medications
6) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
Feature: Finally, saddle fit demystified!
*******************************************************************

Years ago I thought I knew how to tell if a saddle fit a horse.  I went
through the 9 or 10 point checklist and then if everything checked out, I
had a saddle that fit.  My horses said otherwise.  The more stoic horses
would end up with sore backs while the expressive ones would throw bucking
fits or refuse to move.  I finally gave it all up and just depended on the
horse's reactions to gauge saddle fit.

This all changed about two weeks ago when I discovered the Port Lewis
Impression Pad.  A fellow frustrated rider developed a revolutionary way to
test saddle fit.  Unlike static molds of a horse's back, or tracings of the
withers, they developed a way to test the fit of the saddle with the rider
on a moving horse.  The impression pad is filled with a red dough-like
material that you place between your horse and the saddle and then go for a
ride.  The dough shifts around with the weight of the saddle and rider, and
leaves you with an exact impression of the fit.  Points of extreme pressure
end up as bare spots on the pad, while points with no pressure are filled
with the dough.  After evaluating the fit, just roll out the pad with a
rolling pin, and you're ready for the next test.

Now saddle fit is no worry to me, I could test how my saddle fits every day
if I wanted to.  I'm sure I'll be testing it out at least every season.  If
you must make a saddle that has pressure points fit temporarily, the company
also sells a correction pad that can be modified to adequately fix most
fitting problems.

Visit the Port Lewis Workshop website at: http://www.rocler.qc.ca/portlewis/
then click on "Port Lewis Saddle Fit System" and then "Impression Pad" to
see more.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

I have a great question for you.  Might be another good question for your
newsletter.  On peacock bands, are they supposed to be twisted or not?  I
have always put them on without a twist, yet last year as we were preparing
for EBTH one of the C riders said they were supposed to be twisted.  A few
weeks later, Katie came off Sugar and got her foot caught, the band not
releasing.  Our trainer said it was because it was twisted, which made it
fit tighter on the iron.  At the rating last week (Emily rated up and passed
D2, yeah!!!!) this same C was her rater and wanted to twist her peacock
band.  I said not to.  I make sure they are in good shape and not stretched
out and I told her to leave it alone.  The picture in the D manual shows it
without a twist.  What's your sage opinion!!??

Laurie Pringle, Sierra Gold PC parent

Hi Laurie,

You're right that is a great question for the newsletter.  Congratulations
to Emily on her D2!!!  As far as I know, there is no "official" Pony Club
stand on the twist/non-twist issue.  It is however, a subject of great Pony
Club legend.  People think that if they were taught one way by a Pony Club
instructor, that must be the Pony Club way.

Here are all of my musings on the subject:

First of all, I don't recommend peacock irons as safety stirrups.  There are
too many things that the metal nubs or rubber bands can get caught on while
you're riding.  Your stirrups are what stick out the most from the horse
when going in tight places, so I don't want stirrups that can get caught on
things.  Personally, I have seen boot laces get caught, as well as a rider's
shirt or belt buckle when mounting or dismounting.  I have also heard
recently of a Pony Clubber who got the nub caught on a wire fence they were
riding past.

There are two theories about twisting the bands.  First of all, if they are
twisted, then things are less likely to get caught in the band (imagine
riding through dense brush).  Secondly, if they are twisted, a loose fitting
band can be made to fit more snugly.  Band size varies widely, so twisting
may or may not improve the fit of the band.

There are a couple of other concerns that I've heard but have no way of
proving.  First, a tack shop owner told me that the bands weren't designed
to release unless the rider is at least 75 pounds.  Most of the kids who use
these stirrups are under that weight limit.  The second was from a Chief
Horse Management Judge who said that if a rider is over a certain weight,
the stirrup may bend because it only has the one supporting bar.  Again,
this is just speculation as far as I know.

If you want to stick with the peacock irons, I would suggest making sure
that the bands fit rather loosely, especially since they didn't release when
Katie came off.  Twist or don't twist to make the tension correct.  If
you're ready to invest in a safer pair of safety irons I'd suggest the style
with a curved outer bar.  There is nothing to get caught or replace.  These
are sometimes called "Foot Free" or "Australian style" safety stirrups.
Make sure the stirrup you get is 1" wider than the widest part of the
rider's boot.

I got your check for Salsa.  Thank you again.  He is really coming into his
own now.  Stopping is no longer an issue and he just feels a lot more
comfortable (stronger) for some reason.  He actually asks to canter rather
than having to be forced into it.

Stay safe,
Stormy

****************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

My younger daughter, Alicia, has a new pony and we have been trying a lot of
different approaches on her with bits.  She is very goey and Alicia has come
off once very hard on her head and lost some confidence.  The pony has had a
prior tongue injury and we tried yesterday using a hackamore and both Alicia
and the pony were very happy with that.  We were only in the indoor round
pen because of the rain.  We will try riding her out soon and see if it
continues to be as great for her.  Control is the main topic right now.  The
pony has evented through Novice, done polo, gymkhana and cutting.  She is
quick and having control over fences is essential right now.

A Pony Clubber suggested that I contact you and see if you had your bitless
bridle that we could try.  We are currently using a western style mechanical
hackamore.  We need a few more rides to be sure that it is the right thing.
Then the next question becomes what is acceptable in pony club, etc.

Sandy Campbell, Sierra Gold PC parent

Hi Sandy,

I think you're on the right track by keeping a bit out of her mouth.
Especially if the pony had an injury there.  Combine that with a child's
hands and you have potential for the pony to get out of control just because
of the pain.  Since the pony has done gymkhana and cutting, it sounds like
the biggest issue won't be what bit works, but retraining her to stay
relaxed.  If I had her to work with, I'd definitely use the bitless bridle
over a mechanical hackamore for several reasons.  First, the bitless bridle
is designed for direct rein control while mechanical hackamores are designed
for neck-reining.  If you direct rein with a mechanical hackamore the horse
will get mixed signals on his nose, chin groove, and poll.  The mechanical
hackamore does give more leverage, which makes it easier for a child to stop
a horse, but it's at the expense of lateral control.  Secondly, you can't
injure a horse with the bitless bridle, other than rubs if it's adjusted
improperly.  Because of the leverage of mechanical hackamores, they can
cause serious damage to the nose and jaw, especially if the horse steps on
the reins and the reins don't break.

In your situation the bitless bridle may or may not be the best choice
because your daughter's safety is more important than what might be the most
comfortable and kind for the pony.  Some horses adapt right away to the
bitless bridle, like they've been in it for their whole life.  Others take
up to two weeks of an advanced rider schooling the horse in it in order to
understand what they are supposed to do with the new points of control.  I
would hesitate to just turn a kid loose with one on a horse that already has
control issues without making sure that they learn how to teach the horse to
give to the reins and flex at the poll with the bridle.

The other option is a "jumping hackamore" which is usually just a rolled
leather noseband with rein attachments on either side.  It is basically what
they call a "sidepull" in Western riding.  It's control is a little better
than a halter, in that it won't slip around when properly adjusted, but the
bitless bridle will offer a tiny bit more leverage without sacrificing the
horse's comfort.  It is definitely a better choice for direct reining than a
mechanical hackamore.

As far as legality in Pony Club with all bitless forms of control, they are
ok to use for lessons.  They are also legal for all disciplines I can think
of except dressage and the dressage phase of eventing.  They are also not
legal for the flat part of the C1 and higher ratings.  I have been told by
the national examiners that there is a clause somewhere in the Pony Club
literature that says that for the flat part of the C1 and higher ratings if
there is some reason why a horse can't use a bit that they will be allowed
to use a bitless method of control for all of the rating.

Of course I wouldn't take the bitless form of control all the way to being
completely bridleless in Pony Club situations, but if the rider is good
enough, then even with a bridle, they won't be using it for control, they'll
be using it for communication.

All that said, I'd be happy to bring a bitless bridle for you to try.  You
can see what you think of it and go from there.

Keep it slow,
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

My daughter has used a bitless bridle for almost 3 years now, but she is
wondering what you think of jumping hackamores.

Mona Johnson, former PC mom, Washington

Hi Mona,

By "jumping hackamore" I'm assuming you just mean the rolled leather
noseband with rein attachments on the left and right sides.  These work fine
but I've found they don't give quite as much control as the bitless bridle.
They're very similar to using a halter, but a little better because they
won't slip around as much.  There is nothing that makes a "jumping
hackamore" better for jumping than a bitless bridle.  The only reason I
might use one over a bitless bridle is if a horse has a sensitive jaw (or
tooth problems) that make the straps painful if pulled tight.

Stay comfortable,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!: The Classical Seat
*******************************************************************

The Classical Seat by Sylvia Loch

This book is on so many recommended lists that it definitely deserves
mention here.  The following is a review from THE EAST ANGLIAN DAILY TIMES,
3/26/88.

Authorities on horsemanship have been attempting to define the ideal
position of the rider in the saddle since riding and writing were invented.
This book looks back to the oldest surviving text, that of Xenophon in
Classical Greece, who declared.."I do not approve of a seat which is as
though the man were on a chair but rather as though he were standing
upright, with his legs apart."  It is to this ideal that all students of
dressage aspire from Pony Club upward. Its achievement has proved
notoriously elusive.

Sylvia Loch, who with her late husband Lord Loch ran the Lusitano Stud and
Equitation Centre, the renowned dressage centre in Suffolk, has written a
'slim volume' of deceptive simplicity.  "A book so cleverly written and easy
to comprehend," says Lucinda Green, Britain's top event rider, in
appreciation.  The making simple of a subject which too many instructors
appear anxious to surround in mystery makes this little book a delight. The
author cuts through the jargon and makes imaginative use of photographs and
diagrams to get the message across.

All riders of no matter what standard, aiming to improve their dressage
marks - or just get fun out of hacking - will find interest and
enlightenment here.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

www.horseshoes.com - Over 65,000 pages of information dedicated to the art
and science of farriery and hoofcare.  An amazing resource.

************************************************

Saddle Bums is a company that makes undergarments and riding tights to keep
men and women comfortable in the saddle.

http://www.saddlebums.com/

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Use of Equine Medication
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 31 section 15: Use of Equine Medication

Medication is defined as any substance that is not plain water, salt, or
electrolytes, and cannot be considered a normal foodstuff.  It is
administered either orally, via stomach tube, external surface application
or by injection.  Unless medicine is previously prescribed by a
veterinarian, mounts should compete free of medication other than dressings
for minor wounds or scrapes.  If a mount is to receive such medication
during the rally, the competitor must present an explanatory note stating
the information listed in Appendix J, page 101-102, or all information on it
included, to the CHMJ UPON ARRIVAL.  Failure to do so may result in the
competitor being removed from the rally.  This note will then be submitted
to the competition veterinarian who will verify the information and make a
report to the President of the Ground Jury.  A Horse Management Judge or
veterinarian must be present whenever a prescribed medication is
administered.

Drug testing is an option and may be requested of the Organizer by the
Technical Delegate.

Medication may only be administered by the competitor, the owner of the
mount, or a person designated by the owner of the mount.  HMJs or the Rally
Veterinarian are present solely to observe what is being done.  HMJs or
Rally Veterinarians are not responsible for administering a mount's regular
or prescribed medication.  When requested by the Judges, all competitors,
managers, and coaches shall allow the veterinarian or the Technical Delegate
to inspect and examine their mounts.   Should any person not allow his or
her mount to be inspected and/or examined when requested to do so, the
competitor and mount will be disqualified from further participation in the
competition.

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

Free to good home:  7 yr old TB mare.  She's  dark bay around 6 or 7 and
16-1 hands.  She's very sweet and has been ridden on the flat only by a pony
clubber.

Please email or call Clarice O'Brien at natanddev2@... (916) 217-8133

*************************************

Free to good home: 15 year old grey Anglo Arab gelding.  Approximately 15.2
hands.  Has had dressage training in the past but has been hanging out in a
pasture getting trail ridden a couple times a year for the past few years.
Doesn't have any soundness issues that I'm aware of.  Our neighbors own the
horse and are going through a divorce so they just want me to help find him
a good home.  Please email Stormy at: stormy@...

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) 2005 Horse Management Handbook changes
2) Feature: Hunting in England
3) Recommended products and services: Pinchless curb chain hooks
4) Rally and rating tips: Lacing field boots
5) Questions and answers: Preparing for EBTH, wrapping, bits, HM seminar,
and more on grants
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Riding Between the Worlds by
Linda Kohanov
7) Fun and educational websites: Free listing websites, Welsh ponies, and
riding tours
8) Featured rule: Lead lines
9) Free item exchange

*******************************************************************
2005 changes to the Horse Management Handbook!
*******************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT SPRING NEWLETTER FOR 2005

Compiled from comments from Lynn Anthony, Instruction Services Director and
Sarah Adams and Mike Ragland, Co-Chairs of the USPC Horse Management
Committee

As a result of meetings with the discipline chairs at the Annual Meeting in
New Orleans and as we prepare to issue a new Horse Management Handbook,
there have been some changes made which need to be considered by everyone.

BRAIDING:  Braiding is now governed solely by the discipline rule books.
The current braiding rules in the Horse Management Handbook are to be
disregarded.  The provisions for the disciplines that allow braiding are as
follows: (1) All braids must be removed immediately after the last ride of
the day and before the turn-back at the end of the day; (2) Horse Management
will not assess points based upon the quality of the braiding; (3) Braiding
must not interfere with other chores and braiding will not be accepted as a
excuse for not having other tasks completed in a timely manner; (4) if an
object is going to be stood on to braid it must be safe, solid and capable
of holding the competitor's weight, it must have no holes in which the mount
may get its foot caught.  Mounting blocks and milk crates will be acceptable
for braiding.  Buckets and pails are NOT acceptable to stand on.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT: These lists have a number of changes and we will have to
make some corrections to what is shown.  Under Extra Equipment there is a
note in italics - to that note will be added the phrase "all items are to be
turnout inspection clean" that wording was added to the "Bridle" when it
should cover everything in that section.

Secondly, there is confusion over whether the Competitor's name is
sufficient or you need their Pinnie number as well.  Labeling is done for
two reasons - first and foremost is to get lost items back to the person
they belong to and the second is to penalize the correct individual who left
items in an unsafe place - center of an aisle etc. There may be many Jones
or even Mike Jones at the rally - so a Name should include their home club
and Region - hopefully that will eliminate duplicates.  Having the Pinnie
Number is sufficient in itself since the program will then give us all the
other information.  Where the old form said Competitor's Name and/or Number
that meant that the Pinnie number was ALWAYS required and was sufficient by
itself - a Name needed to also have the Pinnie Number added.

We feel that this may be over kill and requiring the use of the Pinnie
Number usually requires tagging everything after arrival at the rally.  So
for all individual items the new form will say you may use the Pinnie Number
and that is encouraged.  However, the items may be labeled with the
Competitors' Name and Club and Region and will be accepted as satisfying the
requirements even without the pinnie number.

The team/region creates the teams name so all team items (utility box, etc)
must have the Team Name which can be done before coming to the rally.

Those wishing to put their Pinnie Number on all of their items - should
consider buying some different colored dots (available at any office supply
store)  each team member can have a different color.  After you arrive and
know your pinnie number simply write in on a sheet of Dots of the same color
- then as you set up your items simply put a dot on the item - they are
generally easy to remove, should not leave any residue on the item and this
is a lot faster than trying to write the number on all of the Name labels
already attached.  But pinnie numbers are only recommended - they are not
required where the Rider's Name and Club and Region are shown on a label.

Small items may be marked on the container - each individual nail, etc. need
not be labeled.

The issue is - Does the label identify the competitor well enough that we
can return the item?  If yes the requirement has been satisfied.

FIRST-AID:  Latex/Vinyl gloves are a part of the human first aid kit.  Vinyl
gloves are being listed as an approve alternative to latex gloves due to the
number of people who have allergic reactions to latex.  This does not mean
that heavy cleaning gloves may be used - the gloves have to be thin enough
to allow for handling a wound and/or bandage.

CHAPERONES:  The Chaperone Duties form now requires that the Chaperones name
be printed neatly in addition to the Chaperone signing the form.

INFORMAL ATTIRE:  Informal attire includes a jacket of any conservative
color except solid BLACK and dark grey (CHARCOAL).  The Pony Club Manual
says that dark blue may not be used as an informal jacket but horse
management will allow dark blue jackets for informal attire.

STOCK TIES: Pre-tied (fake) stock ties are not acceptable.  Wearing a stock
tie indicates that it could be used in an emergency as a temporary bandage.
Since pre-tied stock ties can not be used as a bandage they create a false
impression.  If not using a real stock tie then choose one of the
alternative neckwear listed in the Horse Management Handbook.

EVALUATION FORMS: The New Competitor's Evaluation forms for Horse Management
must be used by all competitors, Assistant Horse Management Judges, Rally
Organizers.  The old forms for the Chief Horse Management Judge and or for a
Mentor Judge shall continue being used.  Rally and Facilities Evaluations
are for the benefit of the Rally Organizer and should be delivered to the
Rally Organizer at the end of the rally: they should NOT be sent into the
National Office with the other evaluation forms.  THEREFORE the Rally and
Facility Evaluation form should NOT be copied on the back of any other
evaluation form.  HMOs should review the Chief Judge's Evaluation form to
see how each assistant was rated.  If an assistant is recommended for the
Provisional Chief Program, the HMO should notify the HMO Coordinator of that
fact and the assistants contact information.

STALL CARDS:  Effective immediately stall cards must list the competitor's
rating.  The sex of the mount must be near the mount's age on the form.
Hotel room numbers are not to be filled in.  We want the name and telephone
number of the hotel and the name of the person registered in the room where
the chaperone will be located.  Cell telephone numbers are permitted and
encouraged for the stall card information on the competitor/Chaperone.  The
Competitors and/or Chaperone's room numbers should NOT be listed.  If we
have the hotel's phone number and the name of the person to whom the room is
registered then we have enough information to contact the Chaperone's room
and then they can get the competitor.  Listing actual room numbers is an
unsafe practice in view of the fact that we have no idea who may be looking
at the cards trying to search for that person.  If we reach the hotel and
give them the name of the registered guest - the hotel will connect us to
the room and then we can find the right person without advertising their
particular room number on the stall card.

HOW TO MAKE A STALL CARD:

Whenever a mount is on competition grounds, a stall card must be posted on
the stall or near the tie area with the following information:

• Rider's name, pinnie number and rating. (For Tetrathlon, ALL riders using
the mount)
• Competitor's rating level
• Mount's name
• Mount's Age and Sex (these must be next to each other on the card)
• Mount's temperature, pulse and respiration at rest
• Owner's name and telephone number
• Home veterinarian and farrier with telephone numbers (including area code)
for consultation
• Any known allergies the mount may have (or N/A)
• A picture or physical description of the mount
• If mount is insured, list name of insurance company, phone number
(including area code) and policy number (this information can be put on the
back of the card if you wish to keep it private.  Put N/A if not insured)
• A list of any stable vices the mount has (or N/A)
• Chaperone's name and motel phone number (including area code)
• Where rider, owner, and chaperone may be reached when they are not on the
rally grounds. If housed in a motel or hotel, the phone number (including
area code) must be on the stall card
• Any supplements or nutraceuticals administered to the mount

The National Horse Management Committee

*******************************************************************
Feature: Laurel Ball's Hunting Debut in England
*******************************************************************
by Heidi Ball and Alexandra Buxton

(Laurel Ball is a C1 rated member of Panache Pony Club in the Sierra Pacific
Region who is currently on sabbatical with her family in England.)

Fox Hunting started about 300 years ago in Melton Mowbray, a town about an
hour's drive north of Cambridge, England.  The sport caught on, growing
strong in popularity.  In recent years, it has been a point of contention
for being a sport of Kings and enjoyed only by the well to do.  It has been
an emotionally charged political sidebar for many years, with animal rights
activists leading a call for a ban on Fox Hunting.  This past autumn, the
animal rights activists finally brought the Fox Hunting ban through the
governmental system in a way that the Tories could not over rule the ban.
This ban on Fox Hunting is to start on February 19th.  It has been
challenged, resulting in the ban being upheld.  While I do expect to see an
eleventh hour postponement of this ban, (it is an election year), I do
expect that the Fox Hunters will still be appealing this ban in the European
Union World Court under the preservation of ancient sports laws.

Participation in a Fox Hunt was quite high on Laurel Ball's list of things
to do while living in England.  Obviously, I felt just a little pressure as
her mother to help her experience this, February 19th is looming all too
closely on the calendar and no identified fit horse on the horizon!  Keeping
caution on my side, we started out this quest by attending a Boxing Day Hunt
with the Thurlow Hunt meeting at an estate in Thurlow.  This hunt was one of
about 300 Fox Hunts held on the banking Boxing Day holiday (Monday, December
27th) throughout England.  This particular hunt that we went to watch had
about 200 plus horses in it.  It was quite a spectacle, and the perfect hunt
to be a follower (an observer who usually follows on foot, sometimes
hitching a ride to another site that the hunt has gone to) and not a mounted
participant.  Contrastingly, Laurel felt she should have been in this hunt
and saw no reason or need to attend as a follower!  I can understand her
strong desire to be part of this dazzling display of horses and riders.  We
saw all sorts and ages of riders, from grandchildren riding in the company
of grandparents, to couples out to enjoy a day off work, all dressed in
their finest. Horses were groomed, clipped, braided and banged to
perfection. Tack was cleaned to perfection, as if competing in a turn out
class.  I saw many men in tails and top hats and one woman riding side
saddle, dressed in all the finery including a veil over her face.  Hunts are
interesting in that a Fox Hunt is much slower than a drag hunt.  There is
plenty of hurry up and wait times as the field is kept sequestered from the
hounds, allowing them to work a scent.  Also, it is anyone's guess as to
where the fox will take them, so there is no checking of fences and courses
are at the whim of the fox.  Drag hunting is very fast as the course is
already chosen and the hounds have a heavy scent to follow (It is damp here,
the scent does not dissipate easily) so the horses go fast and there are no
down times for them, thus the drag hunts usually are shorter in duration.
Fox Hunting usually starts about mid morning and the avid members bring two
horses to allow them to ride till dark, or later!

We were lucky enough to have our friend, Alex, lend us a fit pony to hunt.
"Fizz" is a large Welsh cross.  She is on loan from a rescue center (in the
UK, once rescued, the animal is never given to a home, it is owned by the
rescue center and loaned out, with the rescue center holding surprise
inspections to make sure the animal is cared for in a manner acceptable to
the rescue center).  "Fizz" got her name for being "fizzy," an English word
for hot.  She is a safe pony but quite forward, not a beginner's mount.  She
has issues with standing still, but she loves to jump and will jump anything
with elegance and verve.  "Fizz" had participated in a drag hunt but never a
fox hunt. So, here we go, breaking all kinds of family rules, taking a green
hunter with a green hunt rider on board to a real hunt, leaving mom as
ground crew, not as an accompanying rider.

We had several practice cross country rides, some with natural obstacles to
jump and some with open space to allow for a full on gallop, just so rider
and pony could get to see what each other was all about. (I will tell you
what it was all about, exhilaration and adrenalin!) Through our friend,
Alex, we checked the dress code to find out that Laurel, being a junior
rider, needed to wear Jodhpur boots with half chaps.  I overruled that one
as she had tall boots and I thought tall boots were safer than the half
chaps. Because she was a junior rider and a member of the Cambridgeshire
Hunt Pony Club, she needed to wear a tweed coat, not a black jacket, and her
Pony Club pin and tie.  And we put a green ribbon in "Fizz's" tail so people
would know they were beginners.  Adult riders wear black jackets unless they
have been a member of the hunt for a few years, then the men can wear a red
jacket, if they chose.  (in another hunt, the member jacket color is green)
The men also must wear tall black boots with a brown cuff on top. Women wear
back boots, only.  It all makes for very classy turn outs.

We chose to go Fox Hunting on Monday, January 17th.  We rode with the
Thurlow hunt again, this time they were to meet at Woodside Farm in Balsham,
a short ride from the farm where "Fizz" resided.   The Thurlow Hunt dates
back to the 1770's and covers the area we live in, Cambridgeshire and
Suffolk counties. Currently, they hunt on Mondays and Thursdays.  This
particular Monday was a cold, rainy, sleeting day with lots of wind,
sometimes such a wind that the rain seemed to go horizontally, not
vertically!  It was a day of stereotypical British winter weather!   Our
friend, Alex, turned out to be a sterling mentor and advocate for us.  She
called the hunt secretary ahead asking for a mentor for Laurel as I am still
not allowed in the saddle.  A Mrs. Servaes volunteered to be Laurel's
mentor, she had brought both her now grown sons up by taking them hunting
and welcomed the opportunity to have another young person under her wing.
Alex supplied Laurel with a topographical map of the area, we carried our
own copy of that map and I gave Laurel a cell phone and some chocolates to
keep in her pocket and pondered my senses as to why and how I let Laurel
talk me into letting her ride in a Fox Hunt in a foreign country.

By and by, all the mounted riders gathered in the farm yard, finishing their
port and sausages while the Masters finalized their plan for the day (what
else besides "find a fox?").  I had a good time watching the participants
balance a port glass, a sausage or canapé, their reins and their hunting
whip, knowing that it would take some practice before I could ever have the
grace to keep everything upright and clean, while I sat on a hunter eager to
start his day!  Then, off they all trotted, down a lane, picking up the pace
in the excitement to be off.  They circled around a patch of woods to jump a
few warm up fences:  two pasture fences, a ditch and an ordinary jumping
fence in the middle of a pasture.  Once that was done, off into the woods
they went to wait for the hounds to pick up a fox's scent.  This was a
smaller group of riders, about 35-40, so they did not have to stay so far
away from the hounds that they could not see them work.  In this hunt, the
riders could see the hounds work.  Laurel's observations of the hounds and
their Masters are that the Masters love their dogs, know them by name and
expect them to respond on an individual basis.  She enjoyed watching the
relationship between the Masters and their hounds.

On this estate, foxes were in abundance, as were deer, pheasants and
partridges.  This is because there are subsidies paid to the farmer to
maintain headlands (headlands are planted food and cover plots for wild
game) along the sides of the cultivated fields.  These usually are the areas
an American would ride along side of the farmer's field.  But don't do that
in the UK, that is a way to get a strong scolding from the Master!  It did
not take long to find a few foxes but it did take a while to encourage one
to leave the woods. Finally, one did, but cleverly ran right through a field
of rape, which has a strong odor and threw off the hounds.  But the Master
of the Field took the field off to the other end of that rape field to take
a hedge jump!  It was huge and wide and formidable and Laurel and "Fizz"
were first of the field, after the Master of the Field, to take it.  They
were stunning! (to use a British expression.) They set the pace for the
others to successfully jump.  (Sometimes I think horses are like dogs:  the
bigger they are, the wimpier they are!)  So, there I stood, exhilarated,
watching the riders and listening to Alex and the secretary of the Thurlow
Hunt cheer at Laurel's very excellent first hedge and laughing at myself for
I had worried that "Fizz" would be outrun by these giant hunters.  Well,
"Fizz" would have none of that, out front is where she liked to be and
fences were what she was looking for!  She also spent her resting time
looking for hounds, as she had figured out that the hounds were to be
followed!

That hedge turned out to be the biggest jump there was.  There were not a
lot of jumps on this hunt, though there were ditches. This land was arable
soil, suitable for grass hays and row crops.  The field would stick together
and ride right down the middle of some fields, using the tracks of the farm
equipment and spread out in others.  This was in accordance to each farmer's
individual wishes, some liked to have the hunt stay in the middle using the
farm equipment tracks, others liked to have the hunt spread out over the
planted field.  We followed the hunt by car and hiked into several spots but
after about 3 hours of hunting, we called Laurel to call it a day, both
rider and pony had a great experience and that is just how we wanted to
leave it.  After three hours and several foxy foxes, the Thurlow Hunt had
nothing to show of their efforts but grins and mud!  Lots of mud!

I am sorry to see the ban on Fox Hunting.  The ban does not mean that more
foxes get to coexist with the farmers.  The country and towns are over
populated with foxes and they are frank pests.  I have seen, on two
occasions, healthy foxes stroll right past my bedroom window, in the middle
of the day, off to raid a rubbish bin, I am sure.  I cringe at the articles
debating lifting the ban on leg traps, once the hunt ban is in effect.  I
don't like to read about the "best" way to poison foxes, a paper presented
in a recent veterinary wildlife journal.  These methods do not promise
accuracy in a quick death of a fox.  In the case of poison, the
administrator is banking on the assumption the animal consumes a lethal
dose, not a partial dose.  In the case of the traps, the animal has to wait
until a bigger predator comes along, or the farmer, to finish him off.  And
the most obvious, these methods offer no discretion between foxes, the
target, and other animals, which are in the wrong place at the wrong time.
I do not want people to think that a ban means foxes’ lives are spared.  It
just means that they will have to be culled in a different way.  And if the
farmer does not do the culling of an over populated population, it will be
done by nature through starvation or a lethal infectious disease outbreak.

A great website for more information about fox hunting in England is
http://www.mfha.co.uk/index.html .  It is informative in a practical sense,
offers interesting historical information and is educational in regards to
the ethics of fox hunting.

I need to recognize and thank Colonel Tom Ogilvie-Graham MBE, the Commandant
of the Defence Animal Centre in Melton Mowbray and his colleague Commander
David Boyd for the conversations I had with them in regards to the history
of Fox Hunting.  I am also indebted to my co-conspirator, Alexandra Buxton;
Mrs. Pat Thomas, the secretary of the Thurlow Hunt and to Mrs. Servaes, who
rode with Laurel and gave her the confidence and permission to move ahead
and go for it!

My cohort, Alex, is a free lance writer and volunteered to write her views
of Laurel's Day Off.  I was so enthusiastic about this offer that there was
no room for her to back out (not that she would)!  As I send this off, Alex,
her daughter, Ros, Laurel and Fizz and Cindy, the second pony, have taken
off an hour's drive south to Ros's grandmother's farm for a few days of
riding the public bridle paths, a cross country riding/jumping lesson and a
lesson in a riding school that caters to Pony Club.  (It is mid term break-
the girls have a week off school)  Lucky, lucky girls!

Alexandra Buxton writes:

I was brought up on a farm and we always had ponies. Fat, naughty, hairy
ponies that were covered in mud all winter and in summer time grew lazy and
stubborn in the heat. It was what my mother wanted: as a child she'd longed
to ride but had been forced to learn the piano instead.

It was my mother who taught us to ride, and when I was about 13 I went
hunting for the first time on my pony, Argent. The night before, we scraped
off the mud, washed his tail and cleaned his tack. Early in the morning my
mother plaited his mane. Off I went to the meet, in a Harris tweed jacket,
serge jodhpurs and my brother's school boots, so shiny you could see your
face in them.

That evening, as Argent munched his bran mash and I lay in the bath, I
thought: I did it, I survived. And dozing in the steamy warmth I re-lived
every second of the day: the mud flying up, the terror of galloping down
hill, the crush of horses dashing through gateways, the cry of the hounds,
the jumps we did just clinging on: the thrill of the hunt.

When, almost 40 years later, I heard that an American girl (a girl called
Laurel that I'd glimpsed across the room at a party) wanted to go hunting, I
thought: that's quite remarkable. And then I thought: well, if she wants to
go hunting, she should be able to go. And finally I thought: I have just the
right pony for the job, so - why not?  And so it was that Laurel, her mum
Heidi and I hatched a plot.

But the plot, of course, would have been nothing without the pony: Fizz. A
stocky native pony with a white blaze, Fizz had a bad start in life. Aged
two or so, or maybe younger, she'd been taken in by the International League
for the Protection of Horses: a case of neglect. From there, she was adopted
by a couple as a companion for an elderly horse.

Aged three or so, Fizz was broken in but threw her first young rider off.
Her adoptive owners contacted us when they saw a postcard we'd put up in a
riding shop offering to help exercise other people's ponies. She was totally
green, almost wild, and full of character. Early on, it was evident that
Fizz loved jumping and always wanted to be in front. She could look after
herself.

Two years after my first encounter with Fizz, we got Laurel ready to take
her hunting. I tried to think what Laurel should know, what she should be
able to do, how she could be safe and feel safe. I asked her to ride round
tight corners, I told her to go up and down steep banks, I challenged her to
go as fast as possible and see how it felt. I watched her jump a water-tank,
some bales, and a big log with a run-up of just three strides.

Don't ride past the master, don't ride over the hounds, I said. Be polite
and if you do anything wrong, smile and apologize. Don't expect to be in
control and don't expect to keep clean for longer than two minutes. Don't
drink too much water, as there won't be a chance to pee for hours and here's
a map to put in your pocket in case you get lost.

Laurel passed all my tests with flying colours and wearing just the right
kind of smile to win the heart of even the most irascible field-master. She
had even read books about fox hunting and wondered what call she should
make, should she see a fox. Keep quiet and let him get away, I suggested.

Seeing Laurel at the meet, getting her and the pony there, and seeing
Laurel's mum look so proud, so happy, was (to borrow a phrase of Laurel's)
"beyond fun". For me, a circle had been completed; what my mother had done
for me, I'd helped Laurel's mum do for her.

And it didn't end there. A month later, someone I hardy knew offered me her
horse a wonderful 17.2 hh horse called Halifax and said: "take him hunting,
you'll be fine". My daughter, 14, came too - on Fizz, of course. But it was
Laurel 13 years old and a visitor from northern California - who was our
inspiration.

[To see a picture of Laurel and Fizz ready to hunt, go to:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/ and sign in,
then click on the "photos" link.]

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Pinchless curb hooks
*******************************************************************

Panache Pony Club DC, Clair Spackman has found that a lot of Pony Clubbers
who use curb chains (with pelham, kimberwick, and curb bits) don't realize
that the curb hooks that come with these bits are inadvertently poking and
rubbing their horse's jaws whenever they use the reins.  At the mildest,
it's just an annoyance to the horse, but if not corrected, the horse's jaw
can get rubbed raw of hair and even skin!  There are 3 easy ways to fix this
problem.  An immediate fix if the bit ring is large enough, is to run the
curb chain through the bit ring and attach the curb chain to the curb hook
on the outside of the bit, away from the horse's jaw.  The second fix is to
use a pair of pliars to bend the lower part of the hook away from the jaw.
The best, and most highly recommended fix is to replace the regular curb
hooks with "flat curb hooks" sold in specialty tack stores such as dressage
extensions.  To get a look at the difference between regular curb hooks and
the flat curb hooks go to: www.dressageextensions.com and under "Quick Find"
type in: curb hooks.  This will show you both types.  For a visual depiction
of the problem you can refer to the "Understanding Bits" DVD available at:
www.horseandriderbooks.com .

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Lacing your field boots
*******************************************************************

At every rally I go to, there are always a few competitors with their field
boots laced like tennis shoes.  It seems like the obvious way to lace them
back up after you polish them thoroughly but it is technically incorrect!
It's tricky to try to describe to someone how to lace them correctly without
being there to do it, but here's a great website that actually gives a color
coded diagram and a photo of a properly laced field boot.

Go to: www.dehner.com and then click on "Field boot lace diagram".

After you've got your boots laced correctly, you can learn 15 different ways
to tie your bootlaces or any shoelace.  There are even easier and more
secure ways to tie your laces than how your mother taught you.  Go to:
http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/knots.htm and then click on each diagram for
complete instructions.  My new personal favorite is "Ian's secure shoelace
knot".

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

We are trying to prepare our D1/D2's for the Everything But The Horse (EBTH)
rally.  I have the study guide questions for the D manual, horse management,
and eventing.  I know I can go through the manual to figure out which
questions would be appropriate for the D1/D2 test, but can you suggest any
guidelines for figuring out how to help these little guys study for the
test.  We have one team going, younger kids.  3 D2s, 1 D1 and a new member
only 8 years old.  We went back into some of your previous newsletters and
The D2s did the nutrition test, and did great on it.  I know last year we
were sunk because we didn't know that the D1/D2 test was combined and didn't
prepare properly, so I want to get them better prepared this year.

Thanks,
Laurie Pringle, Sierra Gold Pony Club

Hi Laurie,

The study guides that you have are the best place to start.  [They are
available at: www.ponyclub.org click on the "forms" link and then look for
the "D study guide" link and also the study guides for the various
disciplines, for example "Eventing study guide".]  The other form to study
from is the appropriate standard.  If you have access to an upper level Pony
Clubber that the kids look up to and who would be willing to donate some
time to quiz the competitors, that will be more fun and productive than a
parent trying to do it.  If you have a kid who is still gung-ho to study
after all that, I would just set them up with reading assignments from the
manual.  If they are already balking about all the studying I would let them
off the hook and then just chalk their test score up to having fun and
learning through experience.

Happy studying,
Stormy

****************************************************************

Hello Stormy-

I want to make sure I pass on correct info about wrapping materials, not
only to our kids but also for the upper level Pony Clubber who will conduct
a rating for us.

At the D3 level we know they have to apply a protective boot on their own
mount (with supervision) and a stable wrap (with assistance if needed).
Any kind of protective boot?
Do they apply a whole set or just demonstrate one?
What is the current suggested materials for a stable wrap?  You can imagine
the array of materials we all have...and I'm the first to get confused.
Can they choose to apply a no-bow, and if so what wrap do they use with
that?  What is your suggestion?

Thank you
Patsy Sisco, Duham Chico PC

Hi Patsy,

The protective boot(s) they must apply can be any style such as galloping
boots, splint boots, ankle boots, sports medicine, open front, etc...  The
main point is that they can tell the right boot from the left, that they put
them on right side up and with the proper tension.  They may need to apply
two boots to show the left and right side.  Also have them practice putting
on bell boots so they are familiar with the correct size and fit.

The easiest and safest materials for a stable wrap in my opinion is "pillow
wrap" material for the padding (commercially available, cotton cloth sewn
over polyester batting) with the ponte polyester 6" width wraps with velcro
(usually just sold as "standing wraps").

No-bow padding is acceptable but sometimes these are too thin so you would
need to use two together which makes it awkward to put on.  The best bet is
to have an upper level member check the wrap with a single no bow pad and
see if it looks thick enough.  Definitely avoid the "quilted cotton"
padding, it is too thin for a standing wrap.  Pony Clubbers can also always
use sheet cottons and flannel to do the wrap but it takes more skill and
practice.  They are a good alternative if you have a horse or pony that is
hard to fit with commercial wrap sizes.

For more wrap information, look back at the May 2003 issue of the HM
newsletter at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2

Wrap away,
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

My name is Lauren Burwell.  I am a C-2 from Fresno Pony Club interested in
testing for my C-3 this year.  I have a question that regards my horse.  My
horse Chance is an 18 year old Arabian that I have had for almost 5 years.
He tends to become easily distracted by almost anything.  He also tends to
get quite strong out in the open, almost to the point of pulling my arms out
by the sockets.  I was wondering if I should change bits on him.  The
current bit is a Mullen Mouth Egg-Butt.  I have thought about trying a bit
that is made by Mik-Mar Bit Co.  I think it is the Mik-Mar Pelham bit.

Thank you so much,
Lauren Burwell C-2, Fresno Pony Club, Mid Cal Region

Hi Lauren,

You are lucky that you are starting out with what is typically the mildest
bit available.  It will probably be easy to find something that you and your
horse can communicate better with out in the open.

I would suggest going to a simple mullen mouth pelham with a curb chain for
cross country work.  The beauty of this bit is that you can use the snaffle
rein for basically the same control that your horse is used to on the flat.
If you need it though, you have the curb rein for a little more leverage.
The other good thing about the pelham is that you will learn to use 2 sets
of reins which you may have to ride with during switch rides at the C3 test.

I'd like to address a couple of other points that you touched on in your
email.  Arabians tend to get labeled spooky because of their sensitivity to
their rider and surroundings.  What this translates into is a horse that
demands a very sensitive rider.  As a C2 looking to do the C3, you are on
the threshold of proving yourself to be a rider with dependably independent
aids.  When I get a spooky horse in for training, I start by removing the
bit completely and riding in the bitless bridle (www.bitlessbridle.com).
What I have found is that often, the spookiness increases when the horse
worries about something, then the rider snatches the reins and the horse is
punished in the mouth.  Or, if the horse actually does jump and the rider
catches him in the mouth, it's another confirmation to the horse, that his
fear was real.  The bitless bridle allows for a much wider margin of error
on the rider's part.

If you watch a horse spook in the wild or in a pasture, the most typical
spook is initially just a tiny jump to the side, or even just a snort.  If
the rest of the herd then starts running from an actual danger, it's no
longer a spook, but an evasive measure.  The same thing happens while
riding.  The initial spook is nothing more than a tiny jump or snort at
something surprising.  If the rider starts snatching at a painful bit, then
the horse will start choosing more evasive measures like bolting, bucking,
or continuous spooking.

If your horse has already learned to start running (bolting) as soon as he
spooks, then you may want to try a bit that gives you a little more control.
The code word of "control" (which we all want, right?) in bit terms,
translates to pain.  The more pain the bit can cause the horse, the more
control the bit-maker will say that it will give you.  Initially, most
horses who feel more pain in the mouth will give you the illusion of better
control.  This is not true control, it is the horse trying to avoid pain.
True control comes between a horse who is willing to see the rider as a
respected leader and a rider whose first concern is the horse's well-being.

A bit about selling products.
If you look through catalogs of bits, especially Western ones, you may
notice that any specialty bit is marketed as the "cure" for every problem
your horse may have.  The smaller a niche the bit maker fills, the more they
will claim that their particular patented design can do.  I have not used
Mikmar bits myself, but in evaluating the design and their claims, they
certainly fall into the specialty bit category.  [Take a look at:
www.mikmarbit.com]  Often these companies will sponsor big name riders in
exchange for the riders using their equipment.  It looks like the special
equipment (in this case, the special bit) is what makes the person
successful.  Remember though, these riders were already successful before
they started using these bits, saddles, or other pieces of equipment and in
their very sensitive hands, they can continue their success using a wide
variety of equipment.  What the companies want you to think though, is that
this particular bit is the key to the success and/or that this discerning
horseperson who could pick from any piece of equipment, chose their
products.  The reason that there isn't anybody singing the praises of the
mullen mouth pelham bit is that there are so many different makers that
nobody will get rich in promoting it.  Current Mikmar bits all have a
mouthpiece with a port and a roller which would likely be quite
uncomfortable in an Arabian's mouth because of the breed tendency to have
low palates.  Arabians tend to do better with a bit that is small and
comfortable to carry, or no bit at all.  The other serious design flaw that
I see in the Mikmar mouthpiece is that their ports don't offer any tongue
relief.  A port was originally designed to give the horse's tongue a place
to go to escape the pressure of the bit.  The way the Mikmar bits are
designed doesn't allow this.

A more reliable source in finding an effective bit for your horse is an
experienced horseperson whose opinion you value.

Keep those arms in their sockets,
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Stormy,

How goes it in sunny California?  You and Mouse have helped me so much and I
am grateful.  We are planning our Standards and Ratings Clinic and usually
also do our Horse Management Seminar in conjunction on a weekend.  This
year, our Regional Supervisor wanted in lieu of the usual, for me and some
of the upper level kids to visit clubs and do individual clinics with them.
Does this satisfy our national requirement to have a HM seminar every year?
Should I push for a "real" HM seminar in our region?  I want to do the
"correct" thing, but am flexible, and understand that our region is very
spread out geographically.  I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks,
Marcy Neher, Inland Empire Region HMO

Hi Marcy,

I don't have the ultimate authority to answer that but I can always chime
in!  As HMO for the region you have two facets to fulfill with a regional HM
seminar.  First, the 2002 HM handbook pg. 99, says the HMO must "Develop
Regional level HM seminar for club members." Note that it doesn't specify
that it has to be every year, although I seem to remember that it specifies
either yearly or every other year somewhere else. Secondly, you must
"Organize and facilitate Regional Horse Management Judge's (HMJ) seminar
with the assistance of the Regional Instruction Coordinator.  This should be
held once a year to include all current and potential HMJs."

So we're talking about two different seminars which can be combined or held
separately.  One for club members, the other for HMJs and potential HMJs.

I can't see any problem with holding a traveling HM seminar to fulfill the
"regional level HM seminar for club members" requirement.  This has the
advantage of less travel for more people so you would probably have better
attendance.  I'm not sure how cost effective it would be for the region
unless you are doing the traveling for free.  If you can get the individual
clubs to subsidize your travel costs then it might work for the region.

I'm not sure how long your standards and ratings clinic goes, but it may be
possible to hold them both on the same day, 3-4 hours for one in the AM, and
3-4  hours for the other in the PM, or something like that.  There isn't any
requirement as to how long or extensive the HM seminar has to be.  We
typically hold the HM seminar for club members in the earlier part of the
day and then an HMJ seminar afterwards.  I don't think we've ever held the
standards and ratings clinic and HM seminars together, but we have held the
HM seminar for HMJs in conjunction with rallies, especially the "Everything
But The Horse" (EBTH) rally early in the year.

In years that there's a new HM handbook, it is a good idea to use the HM
seminar to get everybody up to speed on the new changes.  In years where it
seems that nothing is changed, I remind myself is that every year there are
new members, or members who haven't rallied or owned a horse before.  Even
though it seems repetitive, it's good to go back over the old basic rules
like not sitting down while holding a horse, keeping water buckets clean,
and even how to tie a quick release knot.  This is where your older pony
clubbers can take charge and each teach a subject or two.  At our last
regional seminar, we had older PC'ers, CHMJs and AHMJs each teaching a 10
minute lesson.  We divided the attendees into small groups and sent them
around to the lesson stations.  At the end of 10 minutes, they would fill
out a quick evaluation of the lesson and then move to the next station.  We
had all sorts of good topics from how to tie a stock tie, to what to label
in a rally tack room.  By the end of the day, the teachers had gotten the
experience of teaching the same lesson at least 10 times and the attendees
got information on some great horse management topics.

If you decide to hold the traveling HM seminar I would start by sending out
a poll to the clubs and seeing what types of topics they feel they need the
most help on.  I would make a list of options like: bandaging, longeing,
trailer safety, nutrition, conformation and lameness, nutrition, rally
expectations, record books, and stable management.  Basically, just take the
topics right from the standards.  I'm sure you will get the most support
from the clubs if you are coming to teach what they feel they are weak in.
In my opinion, the most useful topics you could provide instruction on are
ones that require hands on practice such as bandaging and longeing.  If you
then get together with your upper level "experts" in the topics, you can
plan your road show and get out there.  I would also allow a little time to
go over new rule changes in the HM handbook with each club.

You may choose to charge the clubs at least a minimal fee to cover food and
gas for your crew.  Something like $5.00 per participant is very reasonable
and what I have found is that if the people know that there is a fee
involved, they value the instruction much more.  It's similar to auditing
clinics, there will be great instructors that you can watch for free, and
other great ones who charge an auditing fee.  The perception is always that
the ones who charge the fee are more worthy of your undivided attention.

Happy travels,
Stormy

**************************************************

Hi Stormy-

I hope you're in the mood for answering questions cause I have oh so many!

* since I should be practicing bandaging regularly, is it possible that my
horse could become 'immune' to bandaging since I'll tend to bandage after
work and leave on for the night. Or is it possible that he'll start
'needing' bandaging regularly if I bandage him all the time?  For example if
you feed a horse a supplement regularly-they can sometimes feel the need for
it if you take it away?

* It says in the bandaging guide that I am supposed to wrap from OUTSIDE to
INSIDE, and place beginning of wrap in groove behind cannon bone? I normally
wrap INSIDE to OUTSIDE? Must I do it the other way and why?

* I have a loose ring snaffle, loose ring-French snaffle, copper roller
d-ring snaffle, full-cheek french snaffle and I just ordered a
rubber-covered egg-butt snaffle.  Other than size (which we'll have to see
about) which do you think might be best for my horse at this time?

* I looked at my record book and in the past 11 days, my horse has had only
1 day off! When I school at home, I rarely jump and I rarely work over 45
minutes.  Am I working him too much?

* Would you recommend Vitamin E and Selenium as a supplement for my (or any)
horse? I heard it was good stuff and necessary-what do you think?

Thanks again-
Ariana Prusa, C2, 49er Pony Club

Hi Ariana,

1) A horse can become dependent on wraps.  I have seen this in horses whose
owners always wrap their horse's legs to keep them from stocking up.  Once a
horse is wrap dependent, they will often have to be "weaned" off by
gradually reducing the wrapping time and providing more turnout or work if
possible.  If your horse is only wearing the bandages because you need the
practice, then I'd just take them off after you put them on.  It is helpful
to leave a stable bandage on all night just once or twice for the ultimate
test, to see how your wrapping techniques stand up to real use.

2) I think you might have misunderstood the bandaging book.  Usually we
teach to wrap from front to back, which means if you look down as you're
wrapping the left legs, you will be bandaging counterclockwise and clockwise
for the right legs.  The reason for this, is that as you come around from
the inside of the leg to the outside, you will be pulling the wrap material
snug against the horse's cannon bone, which is less likely to be damaged
than if you pulled too tightly on the tendons at the back of the leg.

3) You might as well narrow your bit choices down to what you'll be able to
use during your upcoming rating and rallies.  For the flat part of ratings,
the legal bits that you listed are: loose ring snaffle, loose ring french
snaffle, full cheek french snaffle, and rubber covered eggbutt snaffle.  The
copper bit isn't legal, not because of the copper, but because of the
rollers.  All of the bits, including the copper with roller, are legal for
the SJ and XC portions of ratings.  Your horse seemed very soft on the bit
when I gave you a lesson so I would suggest either of the french link bits
or the rubber eggbutt snaffle.  It really depends on how he goes in each.
The full cheek would be good if he tended to be hard to turn but I didn't
notice that.

4) I would give your horse at least 1 day off per week, preferably two.  If
you give him this time off make sure he has turn out (I'm not sure if he
lives in a stall or outdoors).  If you notice that he comes back more
stiffly after a day or two off then he might do better with regular light
work like you've been doing.  The best gauge is your horse.  If he's happy
to come and work each day, you're fine.  If he seems grouchy, give him some
space.

5) Vitamin E and selenium are good supplements for horses who tend to tie up
(azoturia) or have other nutritional imbalances.  I haven't heard of
selenium problems in this area, but if your horse grazes on land that has
too much selenium, or his hay is grown where there is a lot of selenium in
the ground, he can develop selenium toxicity.  Your best bet is to talk to
your vet about it.  He or she will have a better idea of the selenium
problems (if any) in this area.  If you're going to supplement, I would
choose a broad spectrum vitamin and mineral supplement that includes Vitamin
E and selenium (if needed in this area).

Keep the questions coming,
Stormy

*************************************************

Stormy, in your January 2005 newsletter you mentioned that there is a lot of
money available as grants for nonprofit groups.  Could you give some more
information on that?  Such as, where to find them, what the qualifications
usually are.  As a nonprofit group, can you get enough money in grants to
stay financially sound?  How reliable is it?  I have a horse boarding
business and I was trying to cater to older horses.  I offered a reduction
in board because I wanted to encourage people to retire their horses instead
of selling them at auction.  Now I'm getting away from that.  I can't offer
enough of a discount to be of any benefit to the horse's owners.  But if
there are grants available, I might be able to go back to that.  If I have a
barn full of retired horses, can a grant be suddenly taken away and I'm left
with the cost?

Mary Fedorchak, Midland, PA

Hi Mary,

I haven't gone through a grant application process myself but I can
certainly head you in the right direction.  If you already have a non-profit
set up for your business then you're ahead of the game.  I would suggest
writing to some equine facilities who are currently supported by grants and
donations to ask them about the pros and cons of this source of funding.

A good overview article about applying for horse related grants:

http://www.equiworld.net/uk/services/grantsmanship.htm

An article about a horse rescue facility that is funded through grants and
donations:

http://www.defhr.org/press/snyderpr.htm

Funding ideas including grants for animal based organizations:

http://www.fundforanimals.org/animalfunding/

Grantwriting tips:

http://www.npguides.org/

Here are some sites of places that offer grants to get you started.  Many
more can be found by going to a search page (like www.google.com) and
searching for "grants equine non profit" or something similar.

Geraldine R. Dodge Foundation - "A society more humane-a world more
liveable"
http://www.grdodge.org/

PETsMART charities
http://www.petsmart.com/charities/index.shtml

The Summerlee Foundation - "To fund programs to relieve cruelty to animals
in all its manifestations" (They also fund educational projects on the
history of Texas, but the animal cruelty funding is not state-specific.)
http://www.summerlee.org/

I hope that gets you started on the path,
Stormy

**********************************************

Hi,

I don't own or use a horse, but I'm wondering what happens if a bit is used
incorrectly on a horse?

V. Cooper via Internet

Hi V.,

Incorrect use of a bit on a horse can have any number of consequences both
for the horse and rider.  A few of the more serious ones are listed below.

Consequences for the horse include:
pinched or bruised tongue, palate, bars, lips, poll, nosebone and/or chin
groove
bleeding tongue, bars, or lips
scarred tongue, bars, or lips
broken jaw or nosebone
permanent bone spurs on the lower jaw (bars)
being pulled to the ground
getting scared by the bit and running into dangerous situations
permanent or temporary nerve damage to the tongue, bars, nosebone, or jaw

Consequences for the rider include:
getting bucked off
getting run away with
being pulled out of the saddle
pulling the horse off balance and throwing him the ground
getting scared by the bit and running into dangerous situations

The most important factor in determining the severity of a bit is the
rider's hands.  The more independent and sensitive the hands, the milder the
bit will act.

At its best, the bit is a very useful tool for communication with the horse.
Often horses are more clear about what the rider is asking when the rider
uses a well fitted bit along with sensitive hands.  I remember the well
known trainer John Lyons discovering that even after training his Appaloosa
stallion Bright Zip to go bridleless, he noticed that the horse was more
sure of himself when John communicated through a bit.

At its worst, the bit can be nothing short of a torture device, capable of
inflicting unimaginable pain on the horse and rider alike.

Keep it soft,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Riding Between the Worlds by Linda Kohanov

I am a huge fan of Linda Kohanov's but the subjects she delves into with her
"Equine Facilitated Psychotherapy" practice can leave people in a state of
disbelief so be forewarned.

One reviewer writes:

"Daring, deep, and right on target!  Kohanov's work with horses and healing
may be startling and challenging to many mainstream horsetrainers and
psychotherapists, but it is a head-nodding, knee-slapping affirmation to
those who have experienced -- over and over again -- the astounding
potential of the human-animal relationship.  Beautifully done!"

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

We are listing free give away items at the end of this newsletter, but if
you have items that you'd like to get some dollars for, here are a few
websites where you can list your items for no charge:

Bay Area Equestrian Network: www.bayequest.com

Southern California Equestrian Network: www.socalequest.com (free photo
limited time)

Dressage Extensions (not just for dressage stuff) dressageextensions.com
(free photo ads link)

Sierra Pacific Regional Horse Exchange (includes vehicles, tack, and
miscellaneous categories):
http://sierrapacific.ponyclub.org/horse_exchange_new.htm

************************************************

Here's the website of one of our newsletter subscribers in Saskatchewan,
Canada.  She runs a breeding farm specializing in Welsh ponies, Cobs, and
part-breds.  Be sure to check out the "Value added training program" link,
it's a novel way to give future trainers experience.

http://www.ch-equestrian.com

************************************************

Thinking of an equestrian getaway?  Here's a fun site to help you dream.
Whether you want to ride ponies in Mongolia to meet nomadic reindeer herding
families, or maybe a safari in Botswana is more your style, this company
offers it all.  (The India Himalayan ride sounds fabulous to me, you may
even get to see the Tibetan Wild Ass.  I kid you not!)

www.ridingtours.com

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Lead Lines
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 29 section 10: Lead Lines

Cotton lead lines are recommended for safety reasons.  Flat nylon lead
lines, with or without chain shanks, may not be used for tying mounts
because nylon tends to slip.  If the mount pulls back, the knot may get too
tight to be untied.  Round nylon lead lines are discouraged for the same
reasons - but not forbidden.  If a nylon shank is being used for leading the
mount, it is recommended that gloves be worn to prevent hands from being
burned, should the mount pull away.  If a lead rope with a chain shank is
used, the chain must be threaded over the mount's nose or attached to the
halter in some other safe, appropriate manner, so that neither child nor
mount becomes tangled in the chain.  If the mount does not require the use
of a chain over the nose, a plain lead must be used.  Otherwise, it is a
misuse of the equipment.

********************************************************************
Free item exchange
********************************************************************

**FREE**FREE**FREE**

Navy blue polyester blend hunt coat in decent condition, no noticeable
stains or missing buttons.  I'm not sure what size it is, but it would
probably fit an average sized 10-12 year old.  Buyer to pay only the actual
shipping cost.

If you are interested in this coat, please contact Stormy:
stormy@...


<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Submit your free horse-related items or services here. If you or your club
has items they are willing to pass along to a new family, this is a great
place to list them. Listings can come from any part of the country, or even
overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing. Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

As a new service to the readers of the Horse Management Newsletter, I would
like to include a listing of free horse-related items or services at the end
of each newsletter.  If you or your club has items they are willing to pass
along to a new family, this is a great place to list them.  Listings can
come from any part of the country, or even overseas!

Free items may include but are not limited to:

riding clothes
rally equipment
horse-related games and toys
tack and training equipment
blankets, wraps, halters
books or magazines
horse-related artwork
and of course...horses and ponies!

The recipient may be expected to handle any shipping costs.

Please provide a phone and/or email contact with each listing.  Items will
be listed in the next HM Newsletter and will not be renewed unless an
additional email is sent asking for the listing to be continued.

So...clean out your tackroom and make room for more stuff!

To submit your items, simply reply to this email or write to:
stormy@... .

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Note on tapeworm dewormers
2) Feature: EPSM
3) Recommended products and services: Safety stirrups
4) Rally and rating tips: Required equipment tips
5) Questions and answers: Supporting upper level members, insurance,
fundraising and more
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs:
7) Fun and educational websites: UK sites
8) Featured rule: Jewelry

*******************************************************************
Praziquantel safety issues
*******************************************************************

Last month's issue included a recommendation to include a dewormer that
targets tapeworms into your deworming routine.  The drug praziquantel is now
being combined with ivermectin (Zimectrin Gold and Equimax paste) or
moxidectin (ComboCare Gel) to kill tapeworms in addition to a broad spectrum
of other internal parasites.  Since then, I have heard one report of horses
who developed a sensitivity on their lips from the Zimectrin Gold that got
spit out on their muzzles.  A second source said that the praziquantel drug
has a much lower margin of overdose safety than we're used to with straight
ivermectin pastes.  Please consult your vet for current recommendations or
advisories before giving these drugs to your horses.  If anybody has had
other experiences with this drug, please let me know by replying to this
email and describing the incident.

*******************************************************************
EPSM: Equine Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

What the heck?  No, it's not EPM (Equine Prozotal Myelitis), it's not EIA
(Equine Infectious Anemia) or even USEF (United States Equestrian
Federation, formerly USAE, formerly AHSA).  So what is EPSM and why does it
warrant an article in the Horse Management Newsletter?

EPSM is the cause of many fairly common symptoms in horses including many
cases of tying up (azoturia), "shivers", muscle atrophy, and a
stringhalt-like gait.  Sometimes symptoms are as mysterious as a general
reluctance to work or a "bad attitude".  EPSM can be found in any age of
horse and is most common in heavily muscled horses like draft breeds and
warmbloods.  It has been diagnosed in many other breeds as well, so if your
horse has been showing some strange signs, especially in the hind end, read
on.

EPSM is a condition where horses seem to not be able to get enough muscle
energy from carbohydrates.  Carbohydrates are the main energy source in the
typical horse diet of grains, sweet feeds, and pelleted horse feeds.  By
replacing most of the carbohydrates in the horse's diet with fats, EPSM
horses will often have a complete reversal of their symptoms.

The basic EPSM diet includes adding approximately 5 pounds of alfalfa
pellets and 2 cups of oil (corn or vegetable) per 1,000 pounds of the
horse's weight to the daily ration of hay and/or pasture.  Oil is a very
dense source of calories so depending on the horse's weight after switching
to this diet, the hay or grass may need to be cut back.  It is also
recommended to add a daily dose of 1mg selenium and 1IU (International Unit)
vitamin E supplement per 1,000 pounds of the horse's weight.  Selenium
levels differ around the country depending on where the hay is grown.  If
you know your hay or pasture is high in selenium then don't add a selenium
supplement.

Some people have switched their whole barn to the EPSM diet even though they
only had one EPSM horse.  Often, they will notice an improvement in more
than just the EPSM horses.  Nutritional researchers have found no
ill-effects of a high fat diet and have found indications that this may be a
better diet for all horses.

Once an EPSM horse has been switched to the high fat diet, he may show
improvements in as little as a couple of weeks, or it might take up to 6
months to show results.  If after 6 months, no changes are noticed, diet is
unlikely to help this particular horse.  The earlier the horse is started on
the diet, the better the chance for improvement.

If you would like to find out if your horse has EPSM, a veterinarian can do
a muscle biopsy to test for the disease.  Alternatively, you can switch your
horse to the EPSM diet and watch for changes.

To learn more about the disease and different diet alternatives, visit Dr.
Beth Valentine's discussion boards online at
http://www.ruralheritage.com/vet_clinic/index.htm or do an internet search
for EPSM.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Safety stirrups
*******************************************************************

From the DCs digest:
We had an accident with peacock [style safety stirrups] that is worth
alerting people about. A child was riding next to a woven wire fence. The
"button" on the stirrup caught the fence. The stirrup actually bent before
the stirrup leather slipped off the stirrup bar (with the catch
appropriately open). The horse did not panic and the child was not hurt
(Thank Goodness!) but this is another place where the peacock [safety
stirrups] were not the safest choice. (You could argue that riding near the
woven wire fence was unsafe--but the point is that this accident happened
and now more people are alerted to the possibility.)

Rae Birr
Big Bay PC, Lakeshore region

This is a valid concern with these types of stirrups.  Not only can they
catch on things you're riding past, I have also seen them catch frequently
on the rider's boot laces and clothes while mounting and dismounting.  Their
other drawback, is that the rubber and leather pieces tend to stretch,
crack, and need frequent replacement.  There are many other styles of safety
stirrups that don't pose this hazard.  My personal favorite is the style
with an "S" curve to the outside bar.  These are sometimes called
"Australian style" safety stirrups.  These take a little getting used to, as
you can't lean your toe against the outside bar, but it isn't noticeable
once you get used to them and there is nothing to break, replace, or catch.

Stay safe,
Stormy

Thanks to Julie Shiebany for sending along this topic.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************

When the club puts together or reorganizes their rally equipment kits, tape
a label of all the contents on the inside or outside of each box's lid.  If
someone in the club can laminate the list it will last much longer.  After
each rally, appoint team members to restock and/or reorganize each kit
according to the list on the lids.  Use the overnight HM Required Equipment
Checklist as a guideline (Pg. 63 HM Handbook).  All of the one day Required
Equipment Checklist requirements are included in the overnight checklist.

Each club should have at least one rally set that includes the items in the:
Equine First Aid Kit
Human First Aid Kit
Utility Box
Extra Equipment
Tack Room Equipment
Tack Cleaning Kit

Before each rally, make sure to gather together:
Grooming Kits for each horse
Cleaning Equipment (manure fork, broom, wheelbarrow)
Stall Equipment for each horse
and
Feeding Equipment for each horse

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hello Ms. Stormy,

Hope you had a wonderful holiday season. Now that the first of the year
has come I am trying to get a handle on our clubs coming year.  We have one
B who wants to go for her HA. How do we best support this person?

I am also trying to think of some fundraiser that doesn't require so much
manpower [as running a schooling show/clinic]  in an effort to keep the
sponsors from being burnt out. Any thoughts?

Thank you for your time and help
Laurie Dillier, DC Sierra Gold Pony Club

Greetings Ms. Laurie,

Great questions.  To best support the HA candidate, most importantly give
her lots of teaching opportunities, especially teaching mounted lessons with
a mentor instructor watching/helping.  Secondly, encourage her to go to all
the upper level camps and preps.  I'd also suggest to have her volunteer for
an equine vet.  Even a couple of weeks riding on rounds really opens their
eyes to the vet sections of the test, and then they have a captive vet to
brain-pick.  If your club library has books that are on the recommended
reading list for any of the levels through HA they would be good to loan
her.  If USEA has any more instructor training workshops in the area I'd
suggest she audit those, they are very valuable
(http://www.eventingusa.com/education/icp.htm). Lastly, if she can network
and find another HA or H candidate nearby, study partners make the book work
a lot more motivational.  Even if they just meet once a month, it's worth
it.

As far as fundraising, one possibility that jumped out at me from this
month's issue of USPC news is giftwrapping for a store like Barnes and Noble
or Walmart at holiday time.  This is a great way to get non-horsey parents
involved with fundraising.  Contact your local stores for more information
on this service.  From what I understand, Barnes and Noble will supply the
booth, wrapping paper, tape, and customers.  All the club has to do is spend
time wrapping gifts outside the store in exchange for donations.  Book your
dates well ahead of time though.  Another idea is holding pony rides at non
horse related events.  You'd have to get insurance and look further into the
legalities of it.  I have contacts if you want help with that.  The other
thing that came up is working with Girl Scouts to help the scouts get their
horse badges.  Maybe people within the club have some contacts.  I don't
know if that's a paying thing or not.   Both of these also increase the
visibility of Pony Club in the community and can lead to new members.
Another idea is to get product donations from local businesses and then
raffle them off as prizes.  Most mid to large size businesses have a quota
of stuff to donate each year, it's just a matter of timing your asking
right.  You could then pre-sell raffle tickets, and/or hold the raffle from
a booth at a local event.  One last fundraising thought.  I've been
researching a lot of grants for my next movie project, and there is a TON of
money out there just waiting to be given to the right non-profit groups.  If
you have a creative grant writer in the group, or someone willing to learn,
that could be your whole budget right there.

Keep the dollars flowing,
Stormy

******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

Is it approximately three yards of cheese cloth for a shipping wrap?  We are
going to have the kids make them at the February meeting.  I told them to
bring sheet cotton, cheese cloth, spray adhesive and a flannel or poly
cotton wrap approximately 16' long.  Correct?

April Smith, DC Northern Mines PC

Hi April,

For an average horse, a person needs about 10 sheets of cotton (they come in
a 12 pack), and I recommend 19 feet for the wrap.  16 will do the job, but
you won't have any extra to help make it nice and tight.

If you are frugal with your cheese cloth, you can use probably about 1 yard
per wrap.  If the parents just get a pack of cheesecloth, there's more than
enough for one shipping wrap.

I'm still not totally sold on spray adhesive.  It's handy but I don't know
how long it lasts and I could imagine if it is in close contact with a
horse's leg for a few hours under a wrap, there might be some allergic
reactions.  Even if you do use spray adhesive, I'd recommend getting some
strong thread or dental floss with a big needle and just loosely sewing the
cheesecloth and padding together.  It doesn't have to look good, just hold
it all together.

For more complete information, see the May 2003 Horse Management Newsletter
at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2

Enjoy the activity!
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

Can you please send information on insurance carriers for horses.  I have no
experience with this, and as no one at our barn has their horse insured I'm
not sure where to begin.
Thanks.
Heidi Byer, Marin County PC

Hi Heidi,

There are several companies that offer different types of insurance.  If you
start here: http://special.equisearch.com/insurance/ there is some good
information and links to many insurance companies there.  Another site where
you can get information is: http://horsesdaily.com/insurance/  .
This one is by an agent promoting her own business.  Here is one more
"advertising" article: http://www.equisearch.com/farm/legal/eqinsuranc29/

The company that I used when insuring a horse was American Bankers but in
reading an article just now, it looks as if they don't do equine mortality
insurance anymore.  You can read about it here:
http://horsesdaily.com/insurance/pr/3-31-03-announcement.html

Get protected,
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

I have 2 questions for you.

1) Is there a PC recommendation for the replacement of helmets (barring that
no injuries were sustained in one)?  I thought I had read somewhere that the
helmets be replaced every 2 years.   Also, 2) How about those cross-country
vests?  If a vest fits properly, how long can it serve safely?  I was told
that the protective material in the vest is the same as that in the helmets.

Thank you very much
Patsy Sisco, Durham-Chico PC

Hi Patsy,

Easy questions, I love it!!!

1) USPC recommends replacing the helmet every 5 years but this is certainly
not a requirement.  If the helmet is carefully stored in a cool environment
and not subjected to normal wear and tear it can last much longer.
Sometimes show helmets can be cared for like this.  If it gets left in hot
cars, thrown around the tackroom and such, 5 years is a good guideline.
Besides, every kid wants a new helmet after 5 years anyway.

2) I have not heard any guidelines for replacement of vests.  The following
guidelines are taken from the USPC Activities FAQ by Wayne Quarles:

"USPC expects Regions and Clubs to allow Pony Club members to wear a riding
vest.  Currently there is no conclusive medical evidence that riding vests
will necessarily prevent injuries.  We have received expert medical opinions
that riding vests will not prevent or abate many forms of spinal,
neurological, orthopedic injuries.  Additionally, the use of riding vests
may contribute to heat exhaustion and distress in excessive temperatures.
It is also possible that an improperly worn or fitted riding vest may impair
a rider's mobility and/or vision.

USPC cautions Regions and Clubs that they MAY NOT require or mandate the use
of a riding vest (except during USEA-sanctioned Eventing competitions where
they must be worn during the cross-country phase).

USPC believes that the decision of wearing a riding vest, and in what
situations it should be worn in order to achieve any benefit it may provide,
must be the decision of each individual rider and his/her parent or legal
guardian.

Currently there are several body protectors on the market that meet the ASTM
F 1937-98 Standard as certified by SEI and/or other accepted testing
organizations."

Spread the word,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

In a past issue, a reader was looking for a guide to tack fitting.  Alane
Alchorn, CHMJ from the Mid-Cal region, technical advisor on bits, and all
around fantastic horsewoman recently read the "Allen Illustrated Guide to
Training Aids" by Hilary Vernon and wrote:

A very pleasant surprise is the Allen's "Illustrated Guide," as it includes
a paragraph or more on fitting for each item it describes, and the
illustrations are spot-on.

Thanks Alane!

The guide can be ordered through the USPC bookstore at:
http://store.yahoo.com/uspcbooks/training.html

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

From the Pony Club in the United Kingdom comes:
www.pcuk.org
This site has some fun games online, including a points of the horse quiz,
colors quiz, horse tack quiz and more.

Enter the site below for all sorts of British Pony Club fun and facts.  Once
you enter the site, try out the HorseKnowledge link for some great
information.  It includes information relevant for all USPC rating levels
from D1-A!
http://www.websouthwest.co.uk/ponyclub/
Thanks to the Sierra Pacific regional HMO, Liz Tapia for finding this link.

********************************************************************
Featured rule: Jewelry
********************************************************************
Please take note: There will be no new Horse Management Handbook this year.
The 2002 HM Handbook (with all current addenda) is still the most current
copy for use at rallies until further notice.  If you need a copy, it can be
downloaded from the USPC website at: www.ponyclub.org under the
Publications: Rulebooks: Horse Management (2002) links.

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 33 section 21 E: Jewelry

The following jewelry is allowed at USPC rallies:

Medic alert bracelets or necklaces
Watches
Wedding Rings
Stud earrings in the ear ONLY

Any other type of jewelry is inappropriate and will be penalized with
points.  The following jewelry is  NOT permitted at rallies:

Hoops of any size (including ear cuffs) or jewelry that dangles
Anything in the face or airway

Competitors wearing jewelry that is not permitted will be assessed points
and the jewelry must be removed.  If the competitor elects not to remove
jewelry that is not permitted, s/he will be disqualified from the entire
competition and must leave the grounds, if possible.  (See Section 39, page
40).

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Record book checklist update
2) Recommended products and services: Praziquantel for tapeworms
3) Rally and rating tips: Pens and forms
4) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Cavalia
5) Fun and educational websites: NAHRA
6) Featured rule: Competitors' attire while mounted

*******************************************************************
The Excellent Record Book Checklist UPDATED VERSION
*******************************************************************

The following is updated from the record book checklist published in the
June 2003 issue of the Horse Management Newsletter.  This current checklist
takes into consideration the new C3 record book guidelines.  Items with **
before the check line have been added or updated.

This checklist is guaranteed to make your record book spectacular. A record
book fills the need for keeping track of just about everything related to
your horse. If you ever need to track a past lameness history, figure out
what your horse may be allergic to, go on vacation, or transfer ownership, a
record book provides an excellent way to do it. It is not required to use
the USPC Health & Maintenance Record Book. As long as the information below
is included, you can use whatever format you choose. It is especially nice
to keep the records on your computer and then just print it out when testing
time comes.

Examiners like to see your costs totaled when brought to a test. Total the
veterinary costs, farrier costs, feed/board costs, and any others on their
respective pages. At the end of the record book include a page where all of
these can be added together for your total cost of keeping your horse. When
totaling up for a rating, write the totals in pencil. At the end of the
year, when you're ready to start a new record book, write them in pen, or
print it from your computer.

Record book checklist:

>>General information about the horse

___ On the cover, include the start and finish days for each record book.

!!NOTE!! Organize your record books so that they are divided by years.  You
may choose to start the year on January 1 or the date that you purchased the
horse.  A D3 must have at least 3 months worth of records, a C1 must have at
least 6 months worth of records, a C2 must have at least 9 months worth of
records, and C3's and up must have at least a year's worth of records.  If
you have multiple years or multiple horses just choose one horse and the
most current year's records. If you are a very neat record keeper, it
doesn't hurt to bring the past years as well. Organize them so that the most
current year is on top. If you haven't had your horse for a year, or are
borrowing a horse, just explain the situation to the examiner, and bring
some sort of record keeping paperwork either for the borrowed horse or
another one you take care of.

___ Horse's name/registered name
___ Breed/registration number and papers if applicable
**___ Current conformation photographs that show the horse's front, sides
and hind without tack
**___ Detailed description of the horse's markings, including blemishes and
tattoos
___ Resting temperature/pulse/respiration
___ Horse's sex (please don't list "M," that could mean mare, or male; just
write it out)
___ Horse's height
___ Approximate weight (remember to list units, pounds or kilograms)
___ Known vices (for example, cribbing, kicking, girthy etc.)
___ Any known medical conditions or allergies
___ Foaling date (or approximation)
___ Owner's name/address/phone
___ Rider's name/address/phone
___ Boarding stable's name/address/phone (if not kept at home)
___ Veterinarian's name/address/phone
___ Farrier's name/address/phone
___ Other names/address/phone numbers of people who have worked with your
horse
(for example, equine dentist, chiropractor, etc...)
___ Insurance company's name/address/emergency phone and insurance papers
(if uninsured, be sure to note that too so someone doesn't go hunting for an
insurance policy that isn't there)
*remember to include area codes with all phone numbers!*

>>Veterinary records

Ideally you would like to organize this into routine and non-routine care
sections. Vaccinations, sheath cleaning, and teeth floating would be
routine, and any other sickness or wound care visits fall under non-routine
unless your horse is being treated for a chronic illness such as Cushings
disease.

___ Pre-purchase exam papers (if any)
**___ Veterinary bills and other veterinary paperwork and costs
___ Vaccination dates and which vaccines given
___ List the date the next vaccination is due
**___ Any medications your horse is on (if applicable) dosage and reasons
**___ For each medical visit, list the person who did the work

!!NOTE!! It's not enough to just record a vaccine as "4-way," please list
which vaccines were included in the 4-way vaccination, for example it might
include: influenza, tetanus, eastern equine encephalomyelitis, and western
equine encephalomyelitis. This way you will not only become more familiar
with the specific vaccinations, it's also a good way to ensure you know
exactly what is being given in case of any reactions. Also note what company
made the vaccine, lot number, and where the injection was given (for
example, left side of neck).  A horse may be allergic to a carrier in one
company's vaccine, but not another company's (this is very important with
strangles and West Nile vaccines). If you buy the vaccine yourself, include
the tag and receipt in your record book.

>>Deworming

___ Include dates, brand names, and drug names of all dewormers used
**___ Cost of dewormer
___ List the next scheduled deworming date and dewormer to use

!!NOTE!! It's very important to list the dewormers by both drug and brand
names. This way you will be sure you are rotating dewormers. For example,
did you know that Zimectrin, Equimectrin, Equvalan, and Rotectin I, all
contain the exact same dosage of the active drug Ivermectin? You will also
be able to track any allergies your horse may develop to certain drugs or
carriers. It is not always necessary to rotate dewormers, but it's generally
a good idea and a way to save some money in the long run.

>>Shoeing records

___ Dates, cost, and any changes made
___ List the next scheduled appointment as well
___ Include enough information at the beginning so that a new shoer could
shoe or trim your horse in accordance with what you have found works and why
**___ How your horse reacts while being shod

!!NOTE!! Take the time to ask your shoer how to describe what he or she
is trying to achieve or maintain with your horse's feet. An example might
be: "size 0 front , and 00 hind Natural Balance brand iron shoes, square the
hind toes and set back hind shoe to prevent forging, may need leather pads
and quarter clips in front during the summer months, horse has a tendency to
toe out in front." After you have this detailed description, then just note
if and when your shoer makes any changes. Along with all shoeing dates and
prices, be sure to record if and when your horse pulls a shoe (and which
foot), or if your horse develops a foot abscess (which foot, approximate
location, and any possible causes).

>>Other procedures

___ Use this space to include any other treatment dates, descriptions, and
costs such as work by an equine dentist, chiropractic, acupuncture, massage,
etc....  Also record if you noticed any differences after the work.

>>Feed records

___ Approximate feeding times (may change according to the season)
**___ Feed store's name, address, and phone number
**___ Amount fed in pounds for roughage and quarts or ounces for
concentrates (in addition you may also convert weights to a volume measure,
for example flakes or scoops but be sure you have pounds and quarts as well)
___ Type/brands of feed
**___ Feed tags or labels for all feeds that have them (you may need to copy
the information off of plastic tubs that have them printed on the side)
**___ Salt type and how fed
**___ Samples of all concentrates and roughages (get creative here, small
amounts in ziploc bags work well, just keep checking them for mold)
___ Any receipts or bills from the feed store (if feed is included with the
horse's board, include in board section below)
___ Dates of any changes in diet, including reasons and any reactions the
horse may show

>>Equipment used

**___ List what equipment you use on your horse for flatwork, jumping,
longeing, and turn-out.  Be sure to include saddle(s), bridle(s), pads,
boots, etc.
**___ Where the items are located in the stable or tack area.

>>Conditioning records (definitely include these at the C3 level and up)

**___ Conditioning goals and objectives appropriate to the horse (For
example, what is the current riding program?)

List conditioning activities for an average week, this will include:
___ Activity (dressage, show jumping, gallops, trail ride, trot sets, etc.)
___ Specifications (This is what you are actually working on. For example,
in dressage you may be working on training or first level movements, for
show jumping you may be working on 3'3" courses, and for trot sets you could
be doing 3, 10 minute trots with 3 minute rests between.)
___ Average minutes you spend on each activity
___ Times per week you work on each activity
___ Horse's resting temperature/pulse/respiration
___ Horse's temperature/pulse/respiration immediately after strenuous work
**___ Temperature/pulse/respiration rates at 5 or 10 minute intervals after
strenuous work to determine what his or her recovery rate is (how long it
takes to return to the resting t/p/r.)

List any changes in conditioning schedule to include:
___ Dates of changes
___ What you're changing from and to, for example: 3, 10 minute trots with 3
minute rests between to 3, 12 minute trots with 3 minute rests between.
___ Record new t/p/r rates for each work increase

!!NOTE!! Pay attention to how feeding schedule changes may correlate to
conditioning.


>>Activity records

Daily log of rides, lessons, and if applicable, competitions.  All entries
should include:
___ Date of activity
___ Description of activity
**___ Specific comments about how you did or what you worked on
**___ Length of ride
___ Cost (if any)

!!NOTE!! You may want to keep track of your actual riding schedule in a
calendar format. Please plan to transfer the information to a computer
program to print out, or find some other method of keeping it neat. An
examiner hates to get piles of dog-eared calendars with the candidates
saying, "It's all in there!"

>>Boarding records (if applicable)

___ If you board your horse, list costs paid to the boarding facility by
month, remember to total them before your rating and at the end of the year!

>>Other expenses

___ List any other horse-related expenses here. Include date, description,
and cost. Examples are: tack purchases, equine insurance costs, and trailer
servicing.

>>Income

This section will not necessarily include information directly related to
your horse. It is where you, the Pony Clubber, can keep track of how much
money you earn. It can be anything from baby-sitting and mowing lawns, to
exercising horses, or winning the lottery!

___ Include date, description, and amount of income

>>Breeding records (if applicable)

This section is useful to record a mare's heat cycles, breeding dates,
anticipated foaling date, and any other related activities. Most Pony Club
mounts will not need this section.

>>Sale records

___ Bill of sale or purchase/lease agreement paperwork

>>Expense summary

Include a page where all your yearly, or year-to-date expenses and income
are compared. This is a great way to start learning how equine businesses
are run and to make you appreciate what your parents are putting into your
horse habit!

>>Do not include<<

ˆ Anything unrelated to the horse, for example, past ratings certificates,
or Pony Club study material. Income records are excepted.

ˆ Any loose papers. All should be snug in a 3 ring binder or similar system.
Plastic page protectors work well for keeping loose items secure, and ziploc
bags work for feed samples.

ˆ Records for more than 1 horse (keep each horse's records separately for
Pony Club purposes.)

ˆ Excessive pictures. A few for identification purposes are fine, or
conformation photographs from each year could be useful. Photographs of
injuries could be especially useful.

ˆ Anything breakable.  At a recent test someone included a glass test tube
with a sliver of the horse's splint bone that had been removed in it.  Yes,
it was interesting but it was dangerous to have in the record book.  A
picture would have been fine!

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

When was the last time your horse got dewormed with a product that killed
tapeworms?  A really effective tapeworm dewormer hasn't been available for
horses until recently.  Now there are at least three dewormers that include
the active ingredient praziquantel which targets tapeworms.

Zimectrin Gold from Merial combines the very effective ivermectin with
praziquantel.  Equimax Paste is the same combination from Pfizer.
ComboCare Gel is from Farnam and it combines moxidectin (the active
ingredient in Quest Gel) with the tapeworm protection of praziquantel.

Any of these choices would be a good addition to your deworming rotation
program.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************

This might be hard to believe with the extensive list of required equipment
for one day and overnight rallies but there is something missing from the
list.  Regular writing pens and pencils!  At the end of every rally, Pony
Clubbers need to fill out evaluation forms and I can't tell you how many
times they have been written in dry erase markers, the only things that were
available to write with in the tack rooms.  Please remember to add some pens
and pencils to your rally kit for the next season.

The next point is for rally organizers.  Did you know that the competitor's
"Horse Management Evaluation Form" and the "Rally and Facilities Evaluation
Form" should be on separate pieces of paper?  It might seem more efficient
to copy these forms back to back on one piece of paper, but the Horse
Management evaluations need to go to your HMO and then to the national
office, while the rally and facilities evaluation forms stay within the
region.  Be sure to use the latest forms available on the www.ponyclub.org
website, not the old evaluations found at the back of the 2002 HM handbook.

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

How about a recommended equine performance?  For those of you down in
Southern California, you can catch the last performances of "Cavalia: A
Magical Encounter between Man and Horse" in Santa Monica.  From all reports
when it was in Berkeley, it is definitely worth the ticket price.  The show
will be in Santa Monica through January 8th and then be starting in Phoenix,
Arizona on January 25th.  Read more about the project at www.cavalia.net .

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

Whether you're a teenager looking for community service hours, or know
someone who might benefit from some equine-assisted physical therapy, you
can find more information at the North American Riding for the Handicapped
Association's website.  NARHA is a national non-profit organization that
promotes the benefit of the horse for individuals with physical, emotional
and learning disabilities.  Find a center near you!

www.nahra.org

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 33 section 22 A: Competitors' Attire
While Mounted

Clothing required for any horse sport must be neat, clean and in good
repair.  Long hair reaching below the shoulder must always be neatly secured
away from the competitor's eyes and identification number.  Hairnets or
braids are required for all boys and girls with long hair.  A Pony Club pin
must be worn for all riding phases, (colored felt backing denoting rating is
recommended).  Numbers (or color with number in Games competitions) must be
worn throughout the entire competition.

Stormy's note: It is my understanding that if D level riders have long hair,
they will be expected to have it in a hairnet or braid while riding.
However, they cannot be penalized if they don't.  On page 34 of the handbook
it specifies that D's don't need to be turned out properly formal or
informal and the formal inspection sheets don't mention hairnets until the
C1 level.

The one discipline that still recommends not wearing the PC pin while riding
is Games.  This is because often the pin will get broken or scratch the
saddle while the Pony Clubber is vaulting on and off.  In this case, the
Chief Horse Management judge might make pins optional for formal
inspections.  If the Chief still requires them for formal inspections, make
sure you have a safe place to leave your pin before you go ride.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Survey response
2) Feature: Are you a horse trainer?
3) Recommended products and services: SmartPak Equine
4) Rally and rating tips: Hairnet trick
5) Questions and answers: trail trouble, breastcollars, breastplates, and
tack cleaning
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: 101 Jumping exercises
7) Fun and educational websites: Saddle pad dust patterns
8) Featured rule: Dress for Formal Inspections

*******************************************************************
Survey response
*******************************************************************

Thanks to all who responded to the Horse Management Newsletter survey.  You
readers sent some great new perspectives and ideas for the upcoming issues.
Please remember, if you have a question or run across a good topic for an
article, recommended product, book, video, or website, please send it along!

*******************************************************************
Are you a horse trainer?
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

On November 11th and 12th I was lucky enough to attend a clinic given by
Mark Rashid.  Even the first day of rain along the coast at Moss Beach, just
south of San Francisco, didn't stop the auditors or participants from coming
away with a new perspective on the relationship between horses and humans.

One of the most interesting points Mark made was that anybody who works with
horses is a trainer.  Either you are teaching the horse to do something you
want, or something you don't.  Riders get frustrated when their horse does
something they don't like.  Your horse may walk off during mounting, or jerk
his head down for a bite of grass.  Does anybody have a horse that rushes
out of a trailer, resists when you're doing a rein back, or drops her
shoulder in a circle?  Chances are, you've taught the horse that you wanted
that response.

You might ask, how could you have taught the horse these bad habits when you
get mad and punish the horse every time it happens?  Or maybe you just
figure it's not that bad, so you let it continue.

The simple answer: you get what you settle for.

Every time the horse gives you a response and you praise him, give him
relief, or go on to the next movement, you have led the horse to believe
that he gave you the response you wanted.  For example, if you're mounting
and the horse takes a step or two as you get on, you just trained him that
walking is acceptable as you mount.

If you go the other way, and when the horse walks off, you yell at him, jerk
the reins, or hit him with a whip, now what do you think he learned?  He
probably just learned to be afraid of being mounted and to move more to get
away from you next time.  The better alternative is to dismount, walk him
calmly back to the mounting place, and get on again.  If the horse moves,
dismount, quietly put him back in place and get on again.  It might take a
full ride or two of just mounting and dismounting, but in the end, you'll
have a horse that will quietly and reliably let you mount while standing
still.

This training principle applies to almost every situation.  If you stop when
something is "good enough" then you've taught the horse that it's what you
want in the future.  How many of us have taught our horses that it's ok to
pull on the halter to get some grass?  Who has taught their horse that it's
good enough to do a rein back after resisting the bit for a second or two?

The next time your horse does something you don't want, take a minute to
think back about what you or another rider may have done to tell him that
it's really what you wanted.  Of course, keep in mind that some things like
an extended trot, or a straight flying change, will take some mental and
physical training until you can get them on cue.  Until then, break the
exercise down and don't stop until you get what you really want for that
step.

If you're training your horse to do an exercise that you haven't done
before, it's very helpful to have a mentor or trainer to emulate and guide
you.  One of the most valuable parts of Mark Rashid's clinic was that he was
on his own horse.  This meant that he could show the riders what the
finished movements should look like.  Mark's horse was the best spokesperson
he could have had.  Never before have I seen such a quiet, contented, yet
infinitely responsive horse.  It was a lesson that I will continue to work
on for years to come.

Mark Rashid is the author of many books including:
Considering the Horse, Horses Never Lie, and Life Lessons from a Ranch
Horse.  For more information on his program, visit his website at:
www.markrashid.com .

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

SmartPak Equine

I wish I had thought of this concept!  SmartPak is a company that sells
equine supplements, just like many other catalogs do.  The thing that sets
SamrtPak apart, is that they will individually package all of your horse's
supplements into separate, airtight, daily dose packages.  These packages
ensure that your supplements will maintain full strength right up until
feeding time.  The other bonus is that your packs are labeled with your
horse's name and the contents so they will get fed to the right horse every
day, even in a busy barn.  The cost is typically just slightly more than
buying the supplements by the container.  If you think about it though, the
time saved, accuracy of dose, and freshness all can make it worth the extra
dollars.  The supplements may even end up being cheaper than buying from a
retail store once you add it up, and they will be shipped right to your
door, saving a trip to the feedstore.

If you visit their website you can order a free catalog.  Just the catalog
itself is a valuable reference, containing great charts comparing various
hoof supplements, calming supplements, joint supplements and more!  The
other fun part is that it shows which supplements they supply to many of
today's top horses.  See what people are feeding the champions.

www.smartpakequine.com
1-800-461-8898

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Hairnet trick
*******************************************************************

According to page 46 of the 2002 Horse Management Handbook, if your hair is
long enough to put into a bun below the back of your helmet, here's how to
fasten the hairnet.  First of all, use a 'bob' sized hairnet.  Put on the
hairnet at your forehead, and twist at the nape of neck before putting it
over the bun.  The figure-eight shape keeps in all stray hairs.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hello Stormy

I have just gotten back into the owning of a horse after 15 years.  I
purchased a wonderful, gentle but feisty quarter horse.  He is good for my
soul unless I take him out trail riding.  He does just fine until we get
where there are other horses and he can see or smell them, then he gives me
fits, twisting and backing.  In general he wants to go where they are.  He
is in a perfect bit which I just got.  He was in a snaffle that previous
owners gave me, but he did a lot of head tossing with that.  Do you have any
ideas?  What do you think of a bitless bridle as he also gives me lots of
trouble getting bit in mouth.  He is such a sweetheart except for this.

Joan from Hartland, Michigan

Hi Joan,

Congratulations on getting back into the horse world! This topic fits right
in with this month's feature.  Although you might not realize it at first,
every time you let your horse go past those horses while twisting or
backing, you are telling him that it's ok to do that.  Fortunately it's
usually an easy habit to fix.

First of all, take into consideration that horses are herd animals, so when
he sees other potential herd members, it's going to be his instinct to try
to get to them at any cost.  Where you come in, is reassuring the horse that
you're a strong confident leader, and he can trust your judgment about when
it's appropriate to approach other horses, and when it's not.

Before you begin the fix, make sure that your safety comes first.  I always
recommend wearing an ASTM-SEI approved helmet, long pants, and footwear with
closed toes and heels.  The next step is to plan a day or two when you can
go past the trouble spot and spend as long as you need without being rushed.
When he sees the horses, if you're comfortable staying on during his
twisting and backing then go ahead and stay on.  If you're worried about
coming off though, just get off and start the lesson with leading.

All you're going to do is walk back and forth past the other horses until
your horse is thoroughly bored with the whole exercise.  If you started out
leading, go ahead and get on once he's bored, and continue mounted.  Don't
end for the day until he walks past the trouble spot exactly as you would
like him to.  If you can come back the next day, repeat the same exercise.
The second day should take much less time than the first.  By the third day,
it shouldn't take more than one or two passes before he realizes that his
job is to politely walk past the other horses.  After you have success in
one spot, try to find another spot with horses to walk past and repeat the
exercise.

I'd love to give you some advice about what bit your horse may like.  I need
a little more information about what type of bit you have him in now, and
what type of snaffle he tossed his head in.  I love the bitless bridle for
most horses, but without knowing your specific situation I can't tell if it
would be the best alternative.  Lastly, remember that if he resists when you
put the bit in, it may not be that he's objecting to the bit, but that you
or his previous owner trained him that it's ok to resist the bit being put
in his mouth.  Just like the lesson walking past the other horses, take a
day and just practice gently putting the bit in his mouth until he's
accepting it like you want.  A little time spent now will save years of
struggle in the future.

Happy trails!
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Stormy,

What's the difference between a breastcollar and a breastplate?

Casey Hoffmann, C2, Panache Pony Club

Hi Casey,

Speaking of English tack, both the breastcollar and breastplate are used to
keep the saddle from slipping back.  They are most often used when jumping
or riding up and down hills.

A breastcollar is one strap that goes from one side of the saddle to the
other and attaches to the girth, billets, or D rings on the saddle.  A
breastcollar often has a thinner strap that goes across the top of the neck
as well.

A breastplate has two straps that make a "V" shape in front of the neck and
a third strap that fastens to the bottom of the girth.  The top has two
spots that fasten to the saddle D rings and a short piece that goes over the
horse's neck right in front of the withers.

From my understanding, the breastplate, usually seen on field hunters and
show hunters, conforms a little better to the horse's conformation so may be
more comfortable for the horse to wear for long periods of time, such as
when hunting.

The breastcollar, often seen on eventing and show jumping horses may do a
better job of keeping the saddle from sliding back in strenuous situations
but probably isn't as comfortable when wearing for extended periods of
time.  Breastcollars today are commonly made of wide elastic which wouldn't
restrict the horse while jumping as much as solid leather piece like you
often see on polo ponies.

If you're having trouble with your saddle slipping back while jumping, I'd
start by trying a nonslip pad.  If you still need a breastcollar or
breastplate and won't be riding in it for several hours at a time, I'd
suggest an elastic breastcollar.

No slipping!
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

It's Barb Seidel from Napa Valley PC & I was wondering if I could get your
advice/help getting a horse management program going in our club.  Our club
numbers were dwindling so I ran ads in newspaper to attract new kids so we
now have a batch of greenies.  Of course this is great news but we have to
mold those young minds in the ways of PC.

Celeste mentioned that none of them are coming to mounted meetings with
clean tack so I volunteered to do an Intro to Tack cleaning this Saturday
after the mounted lesson.  If you have any hand-outs of have any suggestions
on what to cover besides what is in the D Manual, please let me know.

Thanks!
Barb

Hi Barb,

I'd love to have some sort of cute visual hand out appropriate for D's about
tack cleaning.  The closest I've found is in the 2002 HM handbook on pages
42-44 there is a great tack cleaning guide.  The information is easy to
understand but more pictures would make it fun.  If anyone else reading this
newsletter has some good hand outs about tack cleaning I'd love to have a
copy to post to the Newsletter website for people to use.

If you would like further guidelines in setting up the horse management
program in your club, a good place to start is the November 2003 issue of
the Horse Management Newsletter at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/8

Keep it clean,
Stormy


*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

101 Jumping Exercises by Linda Allen

This past weekend the United States Eventing Association (USEA) held an
instructors training workshop at Connie Arthur's Vista del Rio in Waterford,
Ca.  The workshop was led by the well known USPC graudates and teachers Don
Sachey and Brian Sabo.  During the workshop, they mentioned many great
reference books.  One book that Brian Sabo uses all the time is the 101
Jumping Exercises book.  It is spiral bound and made so that you can just
hang it out by the arena when you're working on a particular exercise.

Below are a few reviews from the amazon.com website:
***********

Excellent exercises for riders new and old

An excellent outline of basic exercises that can help horses and rider hone
the skills needed to safely and correctly navigate courses. Well designed
gymnastics with excellent descriptions and explanations as to the point of
the exercise are fantastic.
***********

Simplifies the process of attaining higher abilities

I bought this book hoping to introduce simple and concise exercises to my
youngster.  What I was delighted to find, was a step by step manual
describing basic flatwork right up to and including more difficult grid and
course work.  Excellent book which I highly recommend.
***********

Another must have

I haven't even finished reading this book yet, but I just have to say how
fabulous it is. I have just started my youngster over fences and have found
this guide invaluable already, with 25 exercises involving just ground
poles, it is already well used. The exercises build up in difficulty so you
are always making progress and at the same time having fun and educational
schooling sessions with your horse. I think there is something for everyone,
beginner to advanced.

As a budget conscious rider training predominantly on my own, I have found
these types of guides priceless and they have really helped me to formulate
a schooling plan each week.  Our progress has been very rewarding. I noticed
that other riders at the barn were using the poles I left out in the arena
and so I started posting the exercises on the bulletin board each week -
inspiring everyone and creating great feedback and support. I know this is a
book I will get a lot of use out of!

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

Thanks to Clair Spackman for sending along this informational website.  The
page below shows what the Schleese saddle company says the dust pattern on a
saddle pad should look like when the saddle fits well.  Once you're on this
page, take some time to look around at their other articles as well.

http://www.schleese.com/editorial/articles/dustpattern.html

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 34 section 22 E: Dress for Formal
Inspection

Dress must be either correctly formal or informal except for D-rated riders.
In exceptionally hot weather, the President of the Ground Jury may waive the
coat, stock tie and helmet cover requirements.  If the coat requirement is
waived, white shirts with sleeves (not tee-shirts) must be worn without
neckwear.  Ds are to be neat and clean, not necessarily properly formal or
informal.  A list of formal and informal dress is on the following page.
[Editor's note: it's on the same page.]  Any exceptions to these dress
requirements will be specified by the committees of the activities involved.
(Refer to discipline rulebook.)

NOTES: Show bows with metal fasteners are not allowed, as metal may cause
injury.  It is the coat that determines whether the rider is formal or
informal, not the tie or pant color.

These rules are subject to annual addenda and corrections to implement
changes in discipline rules or USEF rules.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

READER'S POLL

First of all, I want to thank the subscribers to this newsletter.  Sometimes
it's difficult to remember why I put the time into getting all of this
information out, but when I do a testing where the candidates have obviously
used my study guides, or have someone coming up, telling me about a great
topic for a future newsletter, those little things make it worthwhile.

In order to keep this newsletter evolving, I need feedback from all of you
now.  Please take a few minutes to answer the following questions and then
if you just reply to this email, it will come right to my computer.

Many thanks,
Stormy May
moderator, Horse Management Newsletter

1) Which topics have you found to be the most valuable?

2) What additional topics would you like to see covered?

3) In your home or club, is this newsletter read by adults, and/or Pony
Clubbers, if so, what ages/ratings?

4) What changes would make the newsletter more valuable to the readers?

5) How easy is it to understand the format and writing?  Would a graphic,
HTML format that takes a little longer to download be more fun to read, or
more of a headache to open?

6) Would you like more articles by different people?  If so, does anybody
know some good techniques for coercing others to write?

7) How often do you go back and read past topics, or do you print the
newsletters for future reference?

8) Is the newsletter too long, or too short?

9) Have you had any problems with the yahoogroups email distribution
service?

10) Please feel free to send along any additional information that can help
this project.


To thank you, here's a handy index cataloging all 19 of the past issues.
Topics marked with a "*" are highly recommended.

April 2003:

Feature 1: Notes from the 2003 Chief Horse Management Seminar
*Feature 2: Going stirrupless
Recommended products and services: Aegis helmets
*Rally and rating tips: Tail care, interview with H-A Kayleen Fooy
Questions and answers: Bubble bit and flash question
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Happy horsemanship

May 2003:

Comments from readers: Hydrogen peroxide and lemon pledge uses
*Feature: How to make your own shipping and standing wraps
*Recommended products and services: Feldenkrais for riders
*Rally and rating tips: Body brushes
Questions and answers: Appropriate coat colors for formal and informal
attire, tying horses to trailers at rallies, haynets, lever noseband and
waterford bit question, Myler bits at rallies
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: The glass horse

June 2003:

Comments from readers: A little on Myler bits
*Feature: The Excellent record book checklist
*Recommended products and services: The bitless bridle
Rally and rating tips: Getting ready for formals
Questions and answers: Appropriate bandaging materials, raw spots from a bit
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Beyond the mirrors

July 2003:

Feature: Hot horses, keeping them cool
Recommended products and services: Cashel fly masks
*Rally and rating tips: rally required equipment troublemakers
Questions and answers: appropriate padding for wraps, glitter at rallies,
formal inspection expectations
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Practical eventing

August 2003:

Feature: Taking responsibility
Recommended products and services: Balance saddles
Rally and rating tips: Keeping your tall boots shiny
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Judging hunters and hunter seat
equitation

September 2003:

*Feature: Being a good Pony Club parent, interview with Margot Szabo
Recommended products and services: Old Mac's horse boots
*Rally and rating tips: How to tie a stock tie
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: That special bit

October 2003:

Comments from readers: More on stock ties
*Feature: How to read a mercury thermometer
Recommended products and services: Aloe cream and Elastikon
Rally and rating tips: H-A prep guide
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Centered riding

November 2003:

Horsemaster's program information
*Feature: Setting up your club's horse management program
Recommended products and services: Thrush Buster
Rally and rating tips: B prep guide
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Grooming to win

December 2003:

Comments from readers: Ideas for hooves, tails, and whitening shampoo
Rally and rating tips: C3 prep guide
Questions: when to blanket, measuring feed at rallies, bits with mixed metal
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Understanding Bits

January 2004:

*Feature: Independent hands
Recommended products and services: Rein-Aids
Rally and rating tips: C2 prep guide
Questions: bit alternatives, recordbooks, rally attire for D's
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Into the West

February 2004:

Feature: Best friend or business associate
Recommended products and services: Bucking strap
Rally and rating tips: C1 prep guide
Questions: blanket rubs, chewing bits, and rally equipment
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Make your own horse clothing

March 2004:

Comments from readers: More on labeling at rallies
Feature: Shipping horses
Recommended products and services: Derby original paddock boots
Rally and rating tips: D3 prep guide
Questions and answers: Bitless bridles at rallies, stirrup pads, double
reins for D's
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: That winning feeling

April 2004:

*Feature: Lovely little Lyra's nutrition quiz
Recommended products and services: Video editing services
Rally and rating tips: D2 prep guide
Questions and answers: Windsucking filly, bitless bridles in games,
Safety check checklist for use at rallies and meetings
Featured rule: Lateness penalties

May 2004:

Comments from readers: Windsucking and ulcers
*Feature: Uncle Moose's trailer safety quiz
Recommended products and services: Future fork
Rally and rating tips: D1 prep guide
Questions and answers: Appropriate bandage padding and extra equipment in
rally kits, male neckwear at rallies, feeding at rallies, treeless saddles,
bitless methods of control
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Horses never lie
*The Big Picture: Horse management judging at rallies
Featured rule: Longeing at rallies

June 2004:

Feature: Curry combs
Recommended products and services: Blu-Kote
Rally and rating tips: Disposable wipes or washcloths instead of sponges
Questions and answers: Myler combination bit question, earplugs for horses,
D ring snaffle with copper rollers, bubble bit with curb strap, bell boots
and shipping boots, saddle pad color, half chaps, more bit control for a D
Featured rule: Running martingales, and boots at formal inspections

July 2004:

Feature: Interview with Nicole Steib
Recommended products and services: Effax
Rally and rating tips: Last minute formals tips
Questions and answers: Finding Ponte polyester
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Cloud: Wild stallion of the Rockies
Featured rule: Spurs

August 2004:

*Feature: Saddle fitting
Recommended products and services: Nancy Dotti, certified saddle fitter
Rally and rating tips: Cleaning bits, irons, stirrup pads, and suede knee
rolls
Questions and answers: Bareback riding,
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Horses never lie
Featured rule: Baling twine

September 2004:

Comments from readers: Word from National on half chaps
*Feature: 10 ways to be a good boarder
Recommended products and services: Larry's horse spray
Rally and rating tips: T/Gel for dandruff
Questions and answers: Deworming schedules, horse management judging,
English vs Western bitting, explaining a U.S. port curb bit
Featured rule: Fastening doors at rallies

October 2004:

*Feature: Clipping your horse
Recommended products and services: Andis clipper blades
Rally and rating tips: Dryer sheets for static control
Questions and answers: Rushing horse, bits and nosebands for C3 tests
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: The Allen illustrated guide to
training aids
Featured rule: Jog out requirements

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: To clip or not to clip?
3) Recommended products and services: Andis UltraEdge A5 blades
4) Rally and rating tips: Anti-static dryer sheets
5) Questions and answers: Rushing horse, bits and nosebands for C3 tests
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: The Allen Illustrated guide to
training aids
7) Fun and educational websites
8) Featured rule: Jog out procedures

*******************************************************************
Comments from readers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

Just wanted to write and say that out of all the excellent newsletters, I
found this one [September 2004] to be the most informative, and absolutely
fascinating! Loved the "Boarding Rules".

Keep up the good work,
Margot Szabo, former RS of the Sierra Pacific region and PC mom

*******************************************************************
To clip or not to clip?
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

As a professional body clipper for the past 9 years, I always found it
amusing that I never clipped my own horses.  I had a good reason though, in
all that time I never had a place where I could ride consistently through
the winter.  Now that I'm in my own place with an all weather arena, it's
time to clip!

To clip or not to clip is always a very personal choice.  The main factors
to consider are your winter riding and showing schedule, your horse's coat,
and your ability to be at the barn to blanket and unblanket as needed.
Let's look at each of these factors in more detail.

If your winter riding is restricted to walks up and down your driveway, or
the occasional weekend hack, you are probably best off not clipping.  As a
general guideline, if you aren't working your horse into a sweat regularly
over the winter, you really don't need to clip.  By not clipping your horse,
you will save a lot of hassle with blankets as long as your horse has at
least a two sided shelter to get out of the worst weather.  Please be
advised, I'm writing this from a lifetime of California experience, your
weather in other parts of the country will vary widely!

Interestingly enough, I've noticed that different colors of horses tend to
grow different lengths of coat.  This doesn't take into consideration
stallions, who tend to keep a relatively short coat year round.  Horses who
don't grow much coat tend to be chestnuts, and the ones that end up the
fuzziest are nearly always grey.  If you have a spotted horse, you may find
that the different colors grow different lengths of hair!  Now there's
always the super fuzzy chestnut, or the sleek grey, those are just my
general findings after so many years of clipping.  Again, if you find that
you are regularly working your horse into a sweat, it's time to clip.

It's not healthy to leave a horse wet with sweat in damp weather and your
schedule might not allow time to cool him until he's totally dry.  If you
clip though, do you have time to get out at least every morning and evening
to check your horse's blanket needs?  If your horses are at home, this may
be an easy task, but if they live at a boarding facility it might be
impossible.  Before you decide to clip, find out if the manager, trainer, or
a group of boarders are willing to work together to keep everybody's horses
snug.  You may have to pay for this service, so be sure to budget it in.

Ok, so you've decided to keep working over the winter and clip your horse.
Which clip is best?  There are 5 main types of clips, 4 of them are shown in
the USPC C manual.

Strip clip: Just clip a strip on the bottom of the neck, the chest, and
under the belly.  In my opinion, this clip is a waste of time.  It doesn't
clip enough to keep the horse cool while really working.  The advantage is
that you don't really need to blanket with this clip.  If you're unsure, try
it and then if it isn't enough, switch to the trace clip.

Trace clip: Clip about 1/3 of the way from the bottom of the neck towards
the mane, and then the shoulders, belly, and hindquarters up to about the
level of the bottom of a dressage saddle pad (or where the traces would be
if you have a driving horse).  Don't clip the legs or head although you may
want to trim under the jawbones.  This clip does well for horses who work up
a sweat about once a week.  You may have to blanket lightly for the first
month, but then your horse should be fine without one.

Blanket clip: Same as the trace clip except clip all of the shoulders, neck,
and face or back half of the face if desired.  This is a great compromise
clip.  You get all of the areas that really sweat, but still leave the
saddle area and top of the hindquarters so you won't have to be as
fastidious about blanketing as with a full or hunter clip.  This is the one
I'm doing this year!

Hunter clip: Clip everything but the legs.  You may or may not want to leave
the saddle pad area unclipped.  If you have a saddle that rubs, or your
horse's back is very sensitive, leave the hair as extra protection.
Otherwise just clip it off and it will make it much easier to keep that area
dry and clean.  In all of the clips I've done taking off the saddle pad
area, only one horse ever showed signs of getting rubs.  This clip is good
for horses in regular work but that aren't showing or aren't in conditions
that makes their legs attract mud.  The hair left on the legs will help
protect your horse from brush if you're foxhunting or trail riding, and will
help his legs shed water when it's raining.

Full clip:  Take it all off!  Great choice for stabled horses in heavy work
and ones that show over the winter.  You will have to make sure your
blankets all fit because they will be worn pretty much every day.

In order to get the best looking clip, bathe your horse before clipping
thoroughly with shampoo and let dry.  The bathing can be done a few days
before the clip if necessary.  Two or three baths may be needed if your
horse has a lot of oils and scurf in the coat.  Clippers will not clip
through mud, heavy scurf, manure or scabs.  Bathing will make your horse's
clip look better, extend the life of your blades, and take less time to
clip.  If it's cold, wash your horse in sections keeping a blanket or cooler
on the sections you're not working on.  Be sure to pay special attention to
the top of the hindquarters, under the tail, around the feet, and the hind
cannon bone area.

You can expect your clip to last about 2 months, or until spring shedding
begins, whichever comes first.  If you only want to clip once, wait until
about Thanksgiving.  If you clip earlier, you will probably end up needing
2-3 clips to get you through to spring.

If your horse is stabled, an alternative to clipping is to use lights. Keep
the lights in the barn on so that your horse gets 11 hours of light per day.
The lights need to be bright enough that you could read a newspaper in all
corners of the stall.  This works because it tricks the horse's system into
thinking that it's still summer because of the long daylight hours.  For
this method to be really effective, combine it with blanketing.
Unfortunately, you would have had to start with the lights before the horses
got fuzzy, at the beginning of September.  Maybe next year!

So now your horse is clipped.  How can you tell when he's too cold or too
hot with your current blankets?  Take a look back at last December's Horse
Management Newsletter for tips and tricks on blanketing.  The link below
will take you there.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/9

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

Getting ready to clip?  If you have an Andis, Oster, or other brand of
clipper that uses replaceable A5 blades, I highly recommend Andis brand A5
UltraEdge replacement blades.  These blades are cheaper and last at least
three times longer than the comparable Oster blades.  Best of all, they work
on any brand of clipper that uses A5 blades.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************

Is static cling making your horse's tail look more like a science experiment
than a fly swatter?  I've got a quick and easy fix for static woes.  Just
grab one of your dryer sheets (yes, the sheet you put in your clothes dryer
to soften clothes and prevent static cling) and rub it vigorously all over
the horse's tail.  It also works on the rest of his coat if you can't seem
to brush him without a shock.  Shocking but true!

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Dear Stormy,

My 9 year old Morgan is very high-strung under saddle.  We are jumpers and
do some dressage for training.  My training has taught me that if you can't
get the response you are looking for with a snaffle, than you're not getting
it.  I have tried every type and snaffle that exists, and none of them seem
to encourage any more respect than the previous.  I have worked hard to
encourage halting from the seat and to soothe by petting his neck and
speaking softly while cantering, but as soon as I transition above the trot,
all I can get is a gallop.  Oh, we have decent days, but not many of them.
Then there's no settling down; it's nervous horse city.  (And this is not a
nervous horse in general - he is the most well-behaved and quiet horse on
the ground.)  My coach suggested trying some running reins or draw-rein type
apparatus, but I hate paraphernalia!  It goes against everything I've been
taught (a real less-is-more mentality).  What would your suggestion(s) be in
regard to finding a kind bit that my horse will pay just a smidgen of
attention to?  Thank you so much for your time and great website.

Frustrated in Frankfort, Illinois

Hi Frustrated,

I am so glad to hear that you want to fix the problem without resorting to
paraphernalia like draw reins or harsh bits.

Of course I have to say first of all to make sure that nothing is hurting
him.  Since he's quiet on the ground, and high strung under saddle, it may
in fact be the saddle that is uncomfortable to him.  What happens when you
run your hand firmly along his spine?  Does he flinch or pin his ears?

I'd say the bit might be a problem too, but since you said that you've tried
every type of snaffle, unless he has sores in his mouth, that probably isn't
it.  Have you tried snaffles that don't have any joints like a mullen mouth
or unjointed rubber bit (dog bone snaffle)?  If it turns out that pain is
not a cause, then it's probably confusion.  As far as bitting goes, if you
don't notice a relaxation with one bit over another, then I'd suggest going
with a french link snaffle of average width (not particularly fat or thin).
These are very forgiving bits but they still afford enough communication for
most situations.  If he relaxes better with an unjointed snaffle, then use
that, it's even milder but less precise.  Typically, I avoid single jointed
bits because of their strong "nutcracker" feel.  Of course, whatever bit it
is, make sure it's the correct size for his mouth.  The correct size will
leave 1/8-1/4" between his lips and the bit ring on each side.  Unjointed
bits can err a little on the smaller size, but they shouldn't be pushing in
on his lips.

In my experience, the nervousness you're describing comes from the horse not
truly understanding what is expected of him.  There's an exercise I do in
clinics where one person has a list of things they are supposed to teach to
another person who is playing the "horse".  To teach these, the "trainer" is
not allowed to tell the "horse" what to do, and they can't gesture, point,
or demonstrate.  The person who plays the horse typically gets very
frustrated with the trainer because they have no clue what they are being
asked to do.

Take an honest assessment of your own riding skills.  Since I have no idea
about your background or abilities, work with a trainer you trust to
evaluate how much might be coming from you and how much is the horse.  A
horse with a problem like yours can really be a great teacher if you look at
it from that viewpoint.  Does he get as nervous if the best rider you know
rides him?  If another rider gets a better response, try to emulate that
rider when you are on.

Next, try stepping back in your training to the point where he is
comfortable with what you're asking.  How about just walk, trot, canter?
Does he stay calm if no jumps are involved?  You mentioned that when you
transition above a trot he only gallops.  If you are a secure enough rider,
try an experiment.  Ask for the walk and trot, then gently encourage or
allow him to canter.  As he starts speeding up, just let him go without
urging him on or holding him back.  Keep a loose rein and just let him play
himself out.  If one lead is more difficult for him, do that one first, then
switch and do the good one.  If you need it, use a strap between the dee
rings of your saddle to hold on to.  Do this exercise for a few rides and
see if you notice him settling down more quickly each day.  Be sure that
your legs and hands stay quiet and allow him to come back to a trot whenever
he feels like it.

Once you've found where he is comfortable, then start building him back up
again.  One tiny jump on a loose rein, coming back to a relaxed halt on a
circle afterwards, then a couple of jumps before relaxing to a halt.  The
more you can let go of your expectations and just make the rides about play
and discovery, the more you should feel him relax and want to be with you.

Keep it relaxed,
Stormy

*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

When I went to the C3 proficiency assessment some of the riders did not know
how to correctly use double reins and I use a jointed Pelham bit on my horse
for jumping riding mainly off the snaffle rein and for the switch rides the
other riders were very heavy on the curb rein and it scared my horse when he
would take off and the was A) no release, B) lots of curb action. Since the
PA I have been working very hard to regain my horse's trust, but I'm afraid
that when I go for the testing that all of the work I have been doing will
be undone because of another rider who has not used double reins.  I've
tried jumping in all sorts of bit and martingale combinations and have found
that the Pelham has worked the best because it is very clear to the horse
what action I am trying to effectively use.  What should I do for the
testing over fences?

Thank you,
Christina Brennan, C2, English Hills Pony Club

Hi Christina,

You're in a tough situation there.  I know your horse needs a very sensitive
ride over fences and the reality is that he won't always be able to get that
with the switch rides, especially at the C3 level.  The positive part, is
that at the C3 test, hopefully the candidates will be better prepared than
at the proficiency assessment so they might be better able to handle him.

Since it is a requirement that you must make your horse available for switch
rides at the test, here are your best bets:

First of all, make sure you tell each person that gets on him to pretty much
only use the snaffle rein.  You might even suggest that they knot the curb
rein and not use it, depending on if the examiners agree.

Alternatively, you could find something that is milder and more forgiving to
use for the test.  For the jumping portions, there aren't many bit
restrictions.  You could use anything from the bitless bridle to a Myler
combination gag bit and still be "legal".  You may not have the exact feel
you want, but if it saves you from having to regain his confidence at the
end, it might be worth it.  You could still switch to the jointed Pelham for
the cross country portions since you will be the only one riding him then.

I wouldn't suggest trying to change the bit between your stadium ride and
the switch rides, that would look unfair to the others who will be riding
your horse.

The last thing to think about is that it may not just be that the other
riders aren't using the snaffle and curb reins correctly.  Riders,
especially jumping in a testing situation, often feel nervous on their
switch rides.  This tension will surely pass to a sensitive horse, no matter
what is in his mouth.  Plan to do a certain amount of reschooling after the
test to re-attune your horse to your own style.  Just like a trainer can
tune your horse up for you, less competent riders will un-tune your horse.
It's just a matter of being able to fix him up again afterwards.

Keep him tuned,
Stormy

******************************************************

The following question was originally sent to Mouse Terstegge, the Mid Cal
regional HMO (Horse Management Organizer).  She answered the question very
well and then sent it along to me for further comment, read on...

Hi Mouse,

I'm Pat Crowley and my daughter, Katie, is re-taking her C3 proficiency
assessment (PA) this weekend. I wanted some clarification on the jumping
bridle/bit combination that she should/would be using....yes, we're the ones
that got fouled up with the bi-metal bit issue at her last PA so we're being
very careful about a number of things.

Katie normally rides "Kelpie" in a loose ring gag (double reins) in
combination with the figure-eight noseband.  There are some good reasons for
this but I wanted to make sure that this combination is OK since it has
raised both "yes' and "no" in conversations over here.

As I understand it, the rules for bridles/bits for the jumping phase of a
rating devolve to the rules for eventing. I can't find where this
combination is specifically negated but there is a lot of leeway in the
"Abuse" section where we could possibly get into trouble. We do have a
straight noseband for him but Katie has not ridden in it enough for us to
judge his reaction in a situation other than his home barn.

Should we bring both to the PA and discuss the issue with the examiner(s)??

Thanks for all of your help.

Pat and Katie Crowley
Saratoga Pony Club

Hi Pat,

Good questions.  I wish I had completely definitive answers for you.  I'm
CCing Stormy May, a National Chief from Sierra Pacific on this, because she
knows way more than I do about bitting & stuff.  Hopefully, she'll email us
with corrections if my answers are incorrect.

My take on it is that if the combination of noseband & bit are not
specifically forbidden in print, then it should be acceptable, especially if
Katie knows exactly why she rides with the combination, and can explain it
to an examiner or instructor.

According to the Eventing Rules 2004, for the Dressage phase you may ride
in:

"A snaffle made of metal, leather, rubber or plastic material is permitted
for all tests (see diagram 3a). It may have a cavesson noseband, dropped
noseband, crossed noseband or flash noseband. The noseband must be made
entirely of leather or leather like material, except for a small disc of
sheepskin, which may be used in the intersection of the two leather straps
of a crossed noseband (see diagram 3b)."

They have changed the wording on the bit material so that bi-metal bits are
no longer forbidden, in accordance with the changes made in the USA
Equestrian (Now USEF, United States Equestrian Federation) rules.  So you
shouldn't have a bi-metal bit issue at this PA, even if you came with a
bi-metal bit.  It's been a while since this change came out, and if Katie's
last PA was recent (within a year) then I'm not sure why it became an issue.

As to jumping bridle specs, which is your real question, the rules state
that:

"The type of saddlery is optional with the exception of any form of
blinkers, which are forbidden. Only unrestricted running martingales with
rein stops or Irish martingales are allowed.  Reins must be attached to the
bit(s) or directly to the bridle.  Gags or hackamores are allowed. In the
interest of safety, the stirrup iron and stirrup leathers must hang free
from the bar of the saddle and outside the flap. There must be no other
restrictions or attachments of any kind."

Going by this wording, and based on the specs in the Dressage section, I
feel that it is perfectly acceptable for Katie to ride in the combo she's
been riding in.  I see no restriction for it.  However, I don't have my
manual easily accessible, and there may be an explanation for a prohibition
on the combo.  There may be a comfort/safety issue for the horse, that I'm
not aware of, as I have never ridden with a gag.

It is always safe to bring along a more "conservative" noseband, if there is
a question on the issue, because, as we know all to well, no matter how hard
National tries to get all the examiners to agree & be on the same page with
things, you can still run up against two different examiners allowing or
disallowing two different things.  It stinks, but it seems to be a fact of
life.

It's great that you're doing your best to make things safe & in accordance
with rules!

:) Mouse

Hi Mouse and Pat,

Mouse, good work on all that research!  The "no mixed metal" in a bit
mouthpiece rule has been abolished since the USEF (United States Equestrian
Federation) changed their standing on it.  I can't remember the year, but
it's been quite a while.  If people are still getting into trouble for that,
the examiner needs to be brought up to speed.

The gag with a figure 8 (a.k.a. crossed) noseband is specifically forbidden
in the 2004 USPC Show Jumping rulebook p. 5:

"If a dropped or a crossed or flash noseband (a combination of a cavesson
noseband with a drop noseband attached) is used, it may only be used with a
snaffle, and it must be in the right place, properly adjusted and made
entirely of leather."

As per the Eventing rules that Mouse quoted above, the combination would be
allowed, and therefore should be allowed for the jumping portion ratings.
Ratings are conducted under the Eventing rulebook guidelines for tack and
attire.

This creates an obvious discrepancy in rules between the Show Jumping and
Show Jumping phase of Eventing for Pony Club rallies.  The reason for this
discrepancy is most likely because the committees in charge of the Eventing
and Show Jumping rulebooks are comprised of different people with different
opinions.  In most cases they try to base all the Pony Club rules on the
governing organization of the disciplines (for example, USEF) however,
consistency between disciplines is not always achieved.

Pat and Katie, if you have further trouble with the use of this combination
at ratings, I would refer your questions to Wayne Quarles, USPC Activity
Services Director (activities@...).  He has the authority to
educate the examiners about the allowable use of this combination, and he's
quite a bit expert himself.

As you pointed out, there's a lot of leeway in the "abuse" section.  An
examiner may feel that the combination of a gag and figure 8 noseband causes
undue pain to a horse, in which case they could disallow it.  Personally, I
would look for bruises, scars, cuts, or indentions on the horse's nose,
tongue, bars, lips, or palate before determining that the bit and noseband
might be too severe for the situation.

Cross your nosebands,
Stormy

******************************************************

Dear Stormy,

This isn't a question, but a "thank you." No response is necessary.  My wife
is in the process of re-entering the riding world after a 10 year break
caused by a riding-related injury. Her instructor advised her to switch from
a snaffle to a pelham for foxhunting. She was overwhelmed by the idea of
double reins until she watched your video [Understanding Bits]. I bought and
watched everything from Richard Shrake to Jimmy Williams before I decided
your video was the ideal one for my wife.

Thanks again from a former Pony Club dad in Augusta, Georgia

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Hello Stormy,

Sometimes I get questions about tack fit for things I do not use
often...mostly recently someone asked me if I knew about figure 8 bridles.
Do you have any specific tack books you recommend on the subject of tack
fitting and tack?
Thanks!

Susan Ferreira
former DC - Devil Mountain PC in Mid Cal Region

Hi Susan,

It took me a while to find some good titles on tack fitting, and please, if
any other reader out there has suggestions, feel free to chime in!

In the latest USPC bookstore catalog there are a few tack fitting books.  My
first recommendation would be the Allen Illustrated Guide to Training Aids
by Hilary Vernon.  I have not seen this particular one, but the Allen Guides
are typically very comprehensive.

Second choice would be the Fitting Tack booklet in the Threshold Picture
Guide series.  It's by Jane Holderness-Roddam and probably has most of what
you commonly see but may not be as complete as the Allen Guide.

One word of caution on the Allen Guide though, don't use it to find a quick
training fix for a horse.  Many of the items can do more harm than good in
the hands of someone other than a very experienced trainer.  If you're using
it to learn how to properly fit items that you see Pony Clubbers using, then
you will be well served.

Also, don't forget that all of the USPC manuals, D through A have sections
on tack fit that can be very helpful for the basics.

Keep it fit!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

www.horsefun.com

The name says it all, hours of fun geared towards pre teens.  (Or any
still-horse-crazy-adult with hours to kill on a rainy day.)

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 37 section 31: Methods of horse
presentation for jog out

The reins are held with the bight (slack) in the left hand with the right
hand about one foot below the bit allowing full freedom of the mount's head.
The judges inspect the mounts at a standstill and in motion.  When trotting
out in hand, the mount should move straight away from the judges, turn to
the right (handler keeping mount toward the judges) and go straight back to
the judges.  Other figures may be requested, such as a circle or a figure 8.
Safe and neat attire (no jeans) is appropriate, and must include hard hat
and proper footwear.  Gloves are recommended.  Mounts should be kept moving
until the inspection begins to ensure enough warm-up.  Mounts should also be
kept moving in the holding area if a second inspection is required.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: 10 ways to be a good boarder
3) Recommended products and services: Larry's Horse Spray
4) Rally and rating tips: T/Gel for dandruff
5) Questions and answers: worms 'n' bits
6) Fun and educational websites: Art exercise
7) Featured rule: Fastened doors

*******************************************************************
Comments from readers
*******************************************************************
Hi, Stormy,

Wonderful newsletter, as usual. Thank you!

Regarding the USPC baling twine rule, i.e., for breakaway purposes, use
only the hemp variety, not the nylon type, I am pleased to see that it is
NOT required. I have seen too many horses inadvertently taught at rallies
to pull back when they successfully break breakaway halters and ties,
perhaps with minimal effort as they swing their head at a fly. Perhaps more
in the west, where we have a tradition of wide open spaces, many of us
believe is it essential that horses learn to respect being tied up. It can
be much more dangerous for them to be loose in this world of fast cars and
other threats to their lives. I would prefer to put those confirmed pullers
in a stall or trailer rather than have them breaking loose. Or tie them
high to a high line with some give in it. I have written to USPC in the
past strongly advocating that breakaway twine not be required, and
apparently enough of us believe this that it has indeed become optional. I
respect that others are firmly on the other side of the fence regarding
this issue.

I do think nylon breakaway twine is useful for a confirmed puller in that
it is almost strong enough to be useful, if doubled, but it is very easy to
cut with that sharp knife you have handy in an emergency.

My two cents,
Eileen O'Farrell, mother of a graduate "A" PC'er!

*******************************************

Stormy,

I recently asked Wayne Quarles about the use of half chaps and he
steered me to the National Website, Forms, F, for Frequently Asked
Questions - Activities.  There is a nice explanation there of their
use in Pony Club.

Your newsletter is really great!

Thank you,
Krista Powers

Thanks Krista, here it is, typed out for everyone from the USPC website:

     Regarding the use of half chaps, in competition, the only place where
half chaps are allowed is in Polocrosse.  Again, we are stating that for
qualifying rallies and at championships, they are not permitted, except in
Polocrosse.
     While they are not encouraged for all mounted activities, they may be
used for lessons.
     At ratings of C or higher, they are not appropriate for either formal or
informal attire.
     At D ratings and rallies, the DC may deem them appropriate.
Half chaps are not recommended for games with the vaulting on and off the
ponies.
     It should be noted that using half chaps with riding sneakers are not
felt appropriate.  Riding sneakers do not have the depth of heel to ensure
that the strap would stay in place.  As with all equipment, half chaps
should be in good repair and safe.  A worn and stretched piece of elastic on
a half chap is as unsafe as worn stitching on a stirrup leather.

*******************************************************************
10 ways to be a good boarder
*******************************************************************

Not everybody is lucky enough to have their horse at home.  Over the years,
I've kept my horses at home, at a self-care facility, large and small
boarding facilities, as well as been a manager at a boarding facility and an
owner/manager.  Whether you keep your horse at a friend's small barn, or a
huge boarding facility, here are 10 recommendations on how to be a good
boarder.

1) Pay your board on time.
A day or two late might not seem like much to you, but when the manager is
trying to keep good records, deposit checks, and run a boarding facility,
the people who always dependably pay on time score huge bonus points that
may come in handy some day.

2) Pick up after your horse.
Few facilities are staffed well enough that whenever a horse drops a load,
someone runs behind him with a manure fork to pick it up.  Your
consideration and care will show when you pick up your horse's manure at the
tie rail, aisle, or even where you think nobody will notice it.  The same
goes for the dirt from their feet when you pick them out, and loose hairs
from clipping or shedding.  If you're at a facility you're not familiar
with, ask where you should put it, or just put it back in your trailer if
you trailered in.

3) Make friends with new boarders.
When a new horse and owner arrive, make every effort to say hello, ask the
owner about their horse and riding preferences, and help them settle in.
It's just like welcoming the new kid at school, those first few friendships
are crucial to the newcomer who might feel very out of place.  Think of how
you would like to be welcomed into a new barn.

4) Make sure your horse is easy to work around.
Does your horse bite, kick, or crowd people in his stall?  How easy is she
to lead?  A horse that is hard to work around will generally not be treated
well at most facilities.  You might spend years teaching a horse to behave
under saddle, but what about the rest of the time?  There are hundreds of
people out there that are geniuses when it comes to groundwork with horses.
They might not even ride the same style as you, but they can teach you how
to improve your horse's ground manners.  If your horse doesn't improve,
consider that he might need a pasture, a herd, some turn out time, or more
regular work.  Or it might be physical pain that causes her to act out.  If
the barn workers can help reinforce the new habits that will also help.

5) Offer to help the other boarders, the manager, or the owner.
If you see something that needs to be done, instead of just complaining
about it, how about coming up with some solutions?  Do you hate having to
leave your horse's blanket on all day, or fly mask on all night because you
can't come out twice every day?  What about starting a blanketing co-op at
your barn?  People who want their horses blanketed or unblanketed can take
turns coming out and taking care of each other's horses.  If you're the only
one who can come out, it's not unreasonable to charge a small fee to take
care of those duties, as long as it's o.k. with the owner.

6) Observe all rules.
Whether the rules are posted, written in the boarding agreement, or just
spoken verbally, follow them religiously.  When there are pages of rules, it
has helped me to go back and reread them every few months so I don't
inadvertently forget any.  If you have a special circumstance and you would
like to make an exception, talk with the owner or manger before assuming
that it will be all right.

7) Respect the owner/manager's privacy.
If the owner or manager live on the premises, you are in their yard every
time you come to see your horse.  They don't get to go home at the end of
the day, they're always on call.  Respect their need for some measure of
privacy and don't go to their house unless it is an absolute emergency or
you've been invited.  Use your best judgment on this one.

8) Visit your horse regularly.
This is one of my personal pet peeves, when a horse's owners rarely visit
their horse.  It's one thing if your horse is in full training, but if he
sits in a stall or pen, or even a pasture with the most attention being one
stall cleaning and a couple of feedings per day, he isn't getting the
attention he needs.  If you find that you don't have enough time to spend
with your horse, it's better to put her up for sale or just give her to
someone who will take the time to be with her.  Even retired horses need
attention.  If you have a retired or laid up horse that you can't be with,
make sure the place you board understands this and will give your horse
personal attention.  Alternatively, consider hiring a Pony Clubber to check,
groom, exercise, and dote on your horse!

9) Be aware of how other people's horses are acting when you ride.
Have you ever been on a spooky horse when someone snaps a longe whip beside
you?  It's not a pretty sight.  If it looks like someone might be having
trouble with their horse, take every precaution to keep the situation safe.
Remember to keep at least a horse's distance between you and the other
rider's horse, pass left to left, and if you're just warming up or cooling
out, stay off the rail to let the others work on it.  Be especially aware of
people on green horses that can be very unpredictable and hard to steer.
Also, watch out for young riders and small animals in the arena.  If you're
in doubt, ask before you do something that might upset another horse.

10) Don't gossip.
This is probably the hardest rule of all to follow, but the most rewarding
one.  Gossip is defined by Webster's dictionary as: idle talk about others,
regardless of fact.  If you find yourself relating stories about how you
heard that someone saw this trainer doing this to her horse, that's gossip.
If you tell someone that you can't stand this one boarder because your
friend said she did this horrible thing, that's gossip.  If you find
yourself saying anything with the intent to hurt someone's feelings or
reputation, it's best left unsaid.  How about talking about your dreams,
your goals, your own challenges, and successes?  How about listening to
others share their best too?

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Larry's Horse Spray
*******************************************************************

It's almost the end of fly season but they're still out in full force.  If
your fly spray bottle is getting low, I'd suggest Larry's Horse Spray
concentrate.

Larry's Horse Spray is basically pesticide and chemical free, nice smelling,
and works just as well as the most expensive toxic pesticides.  As an added
bonus, it's very economical to use, dilute it 1:5 with water.

Some ingredients include:
Mineral Oil
Aloe Oil
Oil of Cedarwood
Citronella
and Oil of Eucalyptus

Larry's Horse Spray is available in many tack stores as well as by calling
Larry's Tack in San Bernadino at 1-800-908-8886.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: T/Gel
*******************************************************************

It seems like I'm always in the position of checking manes and tails for
dandruff.  At the C2 level, little if any dandruff is acceptable, and by C3,
no dandruff is the standard.  When I see some really dandruff-free skin, I
always ask what the secret was.  Of course regular washing and care plays a
part, but more and more often now, I hear that the secret was Neutrogena's
T/Gel dandruff shampoo.  That's not to say that one wash with this magic
shampoo will cure your horse's dandruff problem, but if you use it
regularly, every few days for 3 weeks before a show, rating, or rally, and
then every day the week before, you have every right to believe that the
dandruff will be gone.  Be sure to work the shampoo in right to the base of
the mane and tailbone and then to rinse it out completely.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

After six years of pony club and sponsoring whomever was available at our
barn we have bought Bryn a horse of her own. Hopefully she can now begin
working toward her C3 on her own horse. The vet who did our pre- purchase
exam and gave him his booster shots yesterday answered my questions about
worming by telling me that worming every time he gets shod is unnecessarily
often for our environment. (For her pony club record book Bryn has wormed at
the time of shoeing.) This vet recommended four times a year -Sept, Dec,
March, and June with Ivermectin, Ivermectin, Strongid and Panacur in that
order.  Does this schedule sound reasonable to you and will it suffice for
the records Bryn must keep for her C3 preparation?  I would appreciate your
input.

Thanks,
Heidi Byer at Marin County Pony Club

Hi Heidi,

Fantastic question!  Your vet is absolutely correct.  The parasite
prevention and control systems that we have these days are so effective,
that it turns out in most cases that we've been overmedicating our horses.
Today's dewormers are extremely effective, and then combine that with daily
or weekly manure removal, fly control, and good grooming habits.  The
internal parasites that used to plague horses, are now fighting a losing
battle.

Sometimes you will still need to deworm as often as every 6-8 weeks.  In
situations where a horse is out with a large herd in an irrigated or
otherwise year-round green pasture where the manure isn't removed regularly,
or there are lots of different horses coming and going, more frequent
deworming may be warranted.  Also, if your horse frequently travels to
different barns and eats grass that may be infected with worm larvae, you
may want to deworm more frequently.

The best way to tell if your deworming program is effective for your horse
is to have a manure sample analyzed by your vet.  The vet will dilute the
manure, put it under a microscope, and look for parasite eggs or larvae.
Not all manure samples will show all eggs and larvae, but it will give you a
good indication of how effective your deworming program is.

Most likely, the reason the vet recommended ivermectin in September and
December is because it is one of the only ones that kills bot larvae.  Bots
are born as tiny yellowish-white eggs, laid typically on the inside of
horse's knees.  The botflies lay the eggs on the horses in the fall months
so if you use a boticide (ivermectin or moxidectin) during that time, the
bots that make it into the horse's stomach will be killed.  Strongid
(Pyrantel Pamoate) and Panacur (Fenbendazole) are cheaper dewormers that
don't kill as broad a spectrum of worms, and don't kill bots, but they are
very effective when used as part of a rotation program.

In combination with the recommended program from your vet, instead of just
using an ivermectin dewormer in September or December, try one that combines
ivermectin with praziquantel (sold as Equimax, Zimectrin Gold, or Quest
Plus).  The praziquantel will allow you to kill tapeworms in the horse.
Tapeworms previously weren't that big of a problem in horses, but now that
we've gotten rid of so many other worms, the tapeworms find horses an easy
host.  If you use one of the ivermectins combined with praziquantel once a
year, the horse will get the bot protection as well as protection from
tapeworms and the other varieties of internal parasites.

There's a lot more technical information available online and from your vet
about  the specific deworming drugs and brands.  I encourage you to look
into it further, especially as Bryn gets ready for her C3, B and HA ratings,
but this answer should give you a good start, and certainly a very effective
deworming program.  Any effective deworming program will fulfill the C3
record book requirements as long as the candidate knows what she's doing and
why.

Congratulations on your new horse!
Stormy

******************************************************

Hi Stormy,

Our Midwest region this last weekend held their games rally.  I, among many
others you schooled, held down the AHMJ positions.  Your name came up among
us as we tried to do our duties according to the good advice/example you set
for us at Midwest Mega Rally last June.  Some held firm to a philosophy of
strict standard adherance; I was more on the understanding side, especially
when time was running thin &  jr members were feeling overwhelmed.  We had
to measure bucket heights to shoulder of the horse et al.  After 7 pm I just
said: Let's just explain (read teach) and fix it for them. Most of them had
to cool down their horses, do TB, and get all cleaned up.  We proceeded to
fix the water buckets and turn around their clips.  I think, no, I'm proud
to have done the right thing to give assistance, not brow beat them to
death!

Julie Shiebany, Midwest PC mom and AHMJ

Hi Julie,

I'm glad you're continuing the HM crusade, your attitude is exactly what I
love to see in an assistant, and chief!  I should have made a something very
clear about the water bucket height.  The "bucket opening above the point of
shoulder" is not a written rule in the HM handbook so it can only ever be an
educational moment.  The only written rule along those lines is that hay
nets must be hung above the point of shoulder.  Hanging the bucket above the
horse's point of shoulder will discourage pawers and kickers from getting
caught, however, we also have to remember that some horses will drink better
from big muck-type buckets on the ground.  If a clean muck bucket is
properly secured in the corner of the stall, with its handles
tied/taped/secured down or removed, it can also work well although it will
be quite difficult to keep clean.  The other practice of turning the latches
on double ended snaps to face the wall, is yet another example of a good
thing to teach, but not to penalize since it isn't a written rule.

Keep on teaching!
Stormy

******************************************************

Hello,

The DVD [Understanding Bits] arrived yesterday and I enjoyed it very much!
Thank you, especially the fact that you focus on English riding bits.
Everyone who rides should see this DVD.

I have a question I hope you have time to answer. It's about Western
bitting. Why do they need such hard mouthpieces and long shanks?  I know
that the western riding do not use rein contact like in English riding.
Controlling the horse is by first seat and leg, than voice and last rein,
right? But wouldn't it be possible to ride the horse just as perfect with a
simple short shanked bit with mullen mouthpiece?

Anne Waal, Norway

Hi Anne,

By the quality of your question and the terms you used, I can see that you
really understand the material that was presented.  You asked a very good
question about Western riding and bits and I'll answer to the best of my
abilities.  It might be interesting to get more of a Western trainer's view
on the subject as well.

You are absolutely correct in pointing out that control of the horse is done
best using the progression of seat and leg, voice, and then rein.  Actually
the very first step should just be thought or intention.  When a person has
the highest level of connection with a horse, nothing more than a thought is
needed for control, much the same as how the whole herd knows to run if one
horse senses a predator approaching.  At that point it's not really control,
it's an agreement.

Bits are definitely a short cut and safety measure when training a horse.
Depending on the level of partnership a person wants with their horse, they
may never progress past the use of a bit.  The other thing to keep in mind
is that using a bit is not always worse than bitless methods of control.
Riding a horse in control without a bit, and especially without a bridle,
requires months to years to achieve, and a great amount of focus.  If a
person's purpose for riding is for recreation, physical activity, or to
fulfill competition goals, then bitless and/or bridleless riding may not be
important to them.  Additionally, some people find that their horses seem
more secure with a bit than without, possibly because then the rider may be
able to relax better knowing he has an extra measure of security.

The biggest differences between correct English and correct Western riding
lie in their roots.  English riding as we know it was developed for warfare,
transportation over relatively short distances, and hunting.  Western riding
was developed for working cattle and transportation over the vast distances
of the untamed West.  Western riding has its roots in Spanish riding.  In
bitting a Spanish horse, a trainer will often start with a bosal, then move
to a snaffle, next a double bridle (snaffle and curb together), and then
"finish" the horse with just the curb bit.  Modern day Western trainers may
start the horse with a bosal or sidepull, then move to a snaffle, and finish
with the curb.

In the educated hands of a talented rider, a curb bit is often more mild
than many snaffles.  Traditionally, a curb will have an unjointed mouthpiece
which sits quietly in the horse's mouth.  If the curb has a medium or high
port, or is a "spade" bit or a "cathedral mouth", the mouthpiece will be
designed to lie flat between the horse's tongue and palate.  With this
design, the bit has essentially no effect when the horse's head is in the
desired position and no rein is being used.  If the horse brings his head
above or below the "ideal" position, the port will create pressure on the
tongue and palate, even without rein pressure.  The horse, by his own trial
and error, will often find that the most comfortable way to carry his head
with a bit like this is near the vertical, where the trainer wants him.  If
a trainer were to use a short shanked bit with a mullen mouthpiece, like you
suggest, she wouldn't have the advantage of the bit itself encouraging the
correct head position although it would be very kind to the horse.  Unless
the horse is sufficiently in self-carriage to hold his head near the
vertical, the trainer then might have to rely on more rein aids rather than
just letting the bit do the work.

As an interesting side note, both Spanish and Western horses are bred to
work cattle, but from different ends of the spectrum.   Many Spanish horses
are trained for fighting bulls in a small arena by elevating their forehand
and learning to engage their haunches.  Western horses are trained to
"chase" cows by lowering their forehand and in effect, mimicking the cows
movements in cutting or roping events.  Western horses are taught a degree
of collection, but the Quarter Horse's forehand is so low, that the
hindquarters must exaggerate the lowering in order to engage.  This is seen
clearly in the movement of the sliding stop.  Another big difference between
Spanish and Western horses is that the Spanish horse, like an Andalusian or
Lusitano, is built to carry his neck arched and up, and then to break at the
poll and compress his throatlatch to bring his nose close to the vertical.
Western Quarter Horse types, are bred to carry their necks long and low,
with their head approaching the vertical off of a slightly extended
throatlatch area.

In the hands of a master, a bit can be a finely tuned instrument.  In the
hands of a butcher, it is a cleaver.  Keep educating people and setting a
good example.

Mange takk,
Stormy

******************************************************

Hello,

I have a question on a bit, it is a curb but the port is flat with 4 copper
rings in between the port, it also swivels on the shank.  How is this
supposed to work?  What is it called?  I'm just trying to understand the
equipment.

[Editor's note, a picture of this bit is available here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
click on "US port bit" file.]

There is quite a story to tell about my horse, he was in a combination gag
with rawhide nose band and a twisted wire, single jointed mouthpiece.  He
was running through the bit and getting hurt.  The minute I went to a plain
old curb he worked great, but now I am losing flexion and some stop.  I run
barrels and the horse has some emotional issues.  I have almost lost
patience with him totally.  I used this bit I described tonight in the arena
and worked barrels and poles and he did well but I am bothered by the fact
he chomps his teeth, he hasn't done this before.  We bought a wire headset
but I don't think I even want to go there.  I was just wondering what bit
this is and how it works, the store loves me because I have so many bits.
Thanks for your help.

Frustrated in S.D.!!!

P.S. we have tried a lot of bits and he does not handle any thing that has a
joint in the mouth (I think he has a sensitive roof of his mouth).

Hi Frustrated,

Basically, you have a curb with a U.S. port mouthpiece with copper rollers.

Here's the breakdown of what it does:

The shanks are in the "7" shape so that the horse can't grab them with his
lips or teeth and to give the bit a little more play than a straight shanked
bit before it comes into effect.

The U.S. port was originally developed for the cavalry.  The port is large
enough that if the horse raises his nose above the vertical or if you use
the reins any little bit, the port will push against the roof of his mouth
and the cannons (the straight parts between the port and the sides of the
bit) will push down on his tongue and bars at the same time.  This will make
most horses open their mouth to avoid the pain.  The port is "spooned" which
means it has been rounded so that it isn't quite as rough on the horse's
palate as if it were square.

The copper rollers promote salivation in the horse's mouth.  Some salivation
is good because it keeps the mouth moist so it doesn't get rubbed as
severely by the bit metals.  The fact that the rollers move is supposed to
"pacify" nervous horses, but in my experience it just promotes them fussing
with the bit more.  The steel material that the rest of the bit is made of
will also help promote salivation as it oxidizes.  Essentially, the bit
rusts, and that taste makes the horse salivate, just like you would if you
put a piece of rusting steel in your mouth.  I wouldn't suggest using the
bit once it has rusted excessively.

The rectangular "dees" are another spot you could put reins if you want
direct "snaffle" bit action rather than leverage.  The way that the shanks
will swivel allows a little more play with the reins laterally before the
mouthpiece is affected.

You just asked for an explanation of the particular bit so there it is.  Now
to take it a step further, let's look into the horse psychology behind what
might work or not work with you and this horse.

You said that he doesn't like the single jointed mouthpiece (commonly called
snaffle in Western riding, but actually a snaffle is just a bit with direct
pressure rather than the leverage of a curb bit).  Usually horses who don't
like that kind of pressure aren't so bothered by the roof of their mouth as
by the nutcracker effect it has on the lower jaw.  Try pulling one of those
on the bottom of your bare foot, they hurt!  The mouthpiece in this new bit
doesn't have that nutcracker effect on the lower jaw.  Instead, it basically
pries the mouth open when you use the reins.  Probably not the effect you're
looking for either.

The most important thing to remember when selecting a bit is that a bit
doesn't stop or turn the horse.  The horse's mind decides when to stop or
turn.  The most a bit can do is to enable the rider to suggest that the
horse stop or turn.  It's just a cue, not a brake or steering wheel.  If you
get a bit that is uncomfortable to the horse, he will be distracted by the
metal in his mouth, and not really listening to you.  As you have found, if
you keep looking for the perfect bit that will magically make your horse
stop or turn, you will make the tack store owners very happy.  Don't worry,
you're not alone, the sheer number of bit designs available is testimony to
the popularity of this way of thinking.

Often people think that a horse has to be really nervous and hyped up to be
a successful barrel horse.  Actually, it's often the relaxed, comfortable
horses who can really put on the speed and accurate turns when the pressure
is on, the nervous ones just waste their energy needlessly.  A relaxed horse
starts with a relaxed rider, comfortable tack, and a pain-free body.

I would suggest going back to a basic low port grazing curb bit or even a
mullen mouth snaffle or kimberwick for a while.  You may already have
something like it in your arsenal.  From there, the next and probably most
important step is to find a trainer who really understands where stops and
turns come from, a willing horse who wants to please the rider.  Have you
seen demonstrations of horses doing reining patterns bridleless?  Not that
we all have to go bridleless, but that really does show where it all comes
from.  It will certainly take more time than just buying a harsh bit that
will stop him for a few more times before you have to move on to the next
one, but in the long run, the horse will appreciate you much more for it.

I hope I have been of some assistance, please let me know how things
progress.

Keep it simple,
Stormy


*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

This web page has an activity that would be a great art and observation
project for home-schooled kids, a Pony Club activity for younger members or
just fun for horse crazy artists of any age.

Check it out at:
http://www.arts.ufl.edu/art/rt_room/horse/horsing_around.html


********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 28 section 8:

Doors must be securely fastened, whether open or closed, unless a person is
in the stall with a mount.  In that case, the door must be shut (but
unlocked) or tied open.  If stall guards are allowed by the CHMJ at a rally,
they should be used only when team members are present.  They will be hung
so that the top is at the mount's chest level, and the door is secured open.
When entering a stall, competitors should unlatch stall guards rather than
ducking under them.  Under no circumstances should a stall guard or door be
locked.  When team members are not in the stable area and the mount is in
the stall, the stall guard must be taken down and the door securely fastened
shut.

*Stormy's note:  The fastened doors rule also applies to trailer doors when
trailers are being used as tack or feed rooms.  Many times a gust of wind
will blow an unsecured trailer door right onto a person's head!

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: Saddle fitting
3) Recommended products and services: Certified saddle fitter
4) Rally and rating tips: Tack cleaning hints
5) Questions and answers: Bareback riding
6) Fun and educational websites
7) Featured rule: Baling twine

*******************************************************************
Comments from readers
*******************************************************************
Hi Stormy,

I usually put your newsletter away until later in the day to read and then
give a copy to Katie, but I noticed you interviewed Nicole Stieb.  I
couldn¹t wait to read it.  What a nice article.  I totally agree with that
philosophy.  If only I could ride that way!  Bailey and I have a long way to
grow together.  I¹ll print out a copy for Nicole!

Take care,
Nan Ellis

*******************************************************************
Saddle fitting
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May and the Master Saddler's Association

Saddle fitting has always seemed to be more of an art than a science to me.
Saddles that seem to fit a horse perfectly, can send them off in a fit of
bucking, while saddles that seem to pinch the withers and rest on the spine
are accepted without a qualm.

In researching more about saddle fit, I was amazed to read about the Society
of Master Saddlers in England.  They are an organization that certifies
people in the art and science of saddle fitting.  Saddle fit in England is
part of every horse's routine.  Every six months, just like the vet checks
the horse's teeth, the saddle fitter checks the fit of the saddle.  Not only
that, but each saddle is custom fitted to each horse and rider.  The
swapping of saddles, or using the same saddle on different horses is a big
taboo.  Each saddle is individually padded to compensate for the specific
horse's back.

There is an American counterpart to this organization, it is the Master
Saddler's Association, based in Maryland.  On their website, they detail the
10 points of saddle fit as outlined below.  The only certified saddle fitter
in all of California is Nancy Dotti in Sonoma County, CA (contact
information below in the recommended services section.)

Step 1) Position of the saddle

Place the saddle slightly forward on the horse's withers. Next, press down
on the pommel and slide the saddle rearward until it stops at the resting
place which is dictated by each horse's conformation. Repeat this procedure
several times until you feel the saddle stop in the same spot repeatedly,
well behind the shoulder blade. Resist the temptation to place the saddle
too far forward on the withers. This is a very common fitting mistake and
can interfere with your horse's soundness and movement.

Step 2) Angle of the points

To find the points, lift the flap of the saddle and look for a little
leather pocket into which the wooden processes of the pommel are fitted. 
This is the point pocket and there is one on both sides of the pommel of the
saddle just under the stirrup bars.  These points should lie parallel to the
withers.  If the angles are too narrow, the points will dig into the
musculature, also causing the middle of the saddle to be in uneven contact
with the horse's back. If they are too wide the saddle will sit down in
front putting pressure on top of the withers.  To assess the point angles,
stand looking from the front with the flap lifted; the points should be
parallel with the musculature within 10 degrees of the heaviest side. Some
points are concealed making it difficult to determine their angles. If this
is the case, you will have to rely more on the panel pressure procedure to
determine if the point angles are correct.

Step 3) Panel pressure and contact

(Note: The panels are the wool stuffed underside of the saddle, which rest
on the horse's back.)

Place one hand in the center of the saddle and press down to secure the
saddle in place as you test for panel pressure.  Run your other hand between
the front of the panels and your horse's musculature and feel for any uneven
pressure under the points. The front panel should not pinch the withers in
any area.  While maintaining pressure on the top of the saddle, run your
hand, palm up, under the entire panel along the back feeling for even
pressure. You may also raise the sweat flap to ensure that the panels fit
snugly and evenly on both sides of the withers and along the back to check
for bridging.  Bridging is a space near the center of the where the panels
do not make good contact with the horse's back. Wool stuffed panels are
almost universally considered superior to foam for the following reasons:
assuming correctly designed panels, wool conforms to the many shapes of the
horses back and can be adjusted if necessary to correct for a multitude of
fitting problems. You cannot, however, correct for a poorly designed or
incorrectly fitted tree.

Step 4) Pommel to cantle relationship

Visualize a straight line parallel to the ground from the pommel to the
cantle. In saddles with deep or moderately deep seats, the cantle should be
between 2 to 3 inches higher than the pommel. In shallower seats, such as
close contact jumping saddles, the cantle may only be approximately 1 to 2
inches higher than the pommel. In almost any saddle, if the cantle is level
with or below the pommel, the saddle is not properly fitted.

Step 5) Level seat

Visualize the same straight line parallel to the ground and look this time
at the deepest part of the seat.  This area should be level in order to put
the rider squarely on their seat bones and in balance.

Step 6) Wither clearance

There should be adequate clearance between the pommel and the top of the
horse's withers, approximately two to three fingers. More than three
fingers¹ clearance may mean the pommel is too high, i.e. the tree is too
narrow. A saddle with less than 2-3 fingers may mean that the saddle is too
wide.  With wool stuffed panels, make allowance for the saddle to settle a
half inch or so. There is an exception to this indicator:  horses with flat,
round withers may have more clearance than usual under the pommel. In these
situations you may need to rely more on the balance of the seat and pommel
to cantle relationship. On horses with high, narrow withers maintaining
proper clearance is something that has to be monitored and maintained.

Step 7) Channel clearance/Gullet width

There should also be adequate clearance over the spine and connective tissue
throughout the channel of the saddle. A channel that is too narrow will
impede the horse¹s movement dramatically and may even cause the spine to be
observably sore. Feel the width of the spine and connective tissue with your
fingers and estimate its width. The channel of the saddle should completely
clear this width, resting on the long back muscle of the back called the
longissimus dorsi.

Repeat Steps 6 & 7 with the rider in the saddle, checking for adequate
clearance over the withers and spine.

Step 8) Saddle stability

The saddle should remain stable and not shift excessively from side to side
or from front to back.  Keep in mind that such shifting may be a function of
your horse's symmetry and not the saddle. A qualified saddle fitter should
be able to make suggestions to minimize or eliminate the problem.

Step 9) Seat length

The saddle should never go behind the 18th thoracic vertebra, which is the
vertebra corresponding with the last rib.  Behind this vertebra are the
lumbar vertebrae, which is the weakest, non-weight bearing area of the back.

Step 10) Horse response

Throughout the whole saddle fitting process, monitor your horse's response. 
Watch his ears and body language.  Does he try to step away from the saddle
or flinch when it is placed on his back?  Or is the opposite true; is he
more accepting of the saddle?  How does he move when he is ridden?  Does he
seem freer or more restricted?  The horse is the most honest indicator we
have when fitting a saddle so pay attention to it and note any changes.

[exerpted from the Master Saddler's Association website]

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

Is it time for your saddle fit to be checked?  The only saddle fitter
certified by the Master Saddler's Association in California is:

Nancy Dotti
Contact Saddles
Sonoma County, CA
707-575-8637
email: ContactSaddles@...

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************

Tack cleaning hints from page 44 of the 2002 Horse Management Handbook:

Stirrup pads can be cleaned with a toothbrush and a sink cleanser. [Editor's
note: To really brighten old white pads, use white shoe polish after
thoroughly cleaning!]  Some people, after cleaning irons and bits, put them
in the dishwasher to get them very shiny.  To clean the elastic on girths, a
toothbrush and paste (not gel) toothpaste works well.  The whitening agent
in the toothpaste cleans the elastic and rinses out easier than does soap.

Suede knee rolls may be cleaned with the paste hand cleaner used by
automobile mechanics to remove oil from their hands.  Dampen the suede, then
rub in the cleaner.  After a few minutes, it should be rinsed off.  This may
be repeated until oil is gone, then allowed to dry.  Care should be taken
not to saturate the knee rolls with water.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

Just received your newsletter and loved your comments about using
natural horsemanship to ride softly.

My daughter, Averie (who was in Ponu Club until we moved from CA)and
I have been doing more bareback riding.  I think I remember seeing
you ride bareback in the bits video (I could be mistaken on this).
But anyway, do you have any pointers for riding bareback?  Is the
position totally different from English?  We have been told to place
our legs way forward. Is this correct?  Is it still heels down?  Any
tips on riding bareback would be appreciated, as we wish to do more
than just walk--we'd like to trot, canter and gallop bareback.  (We
use the bitless bridle)

   Many thanks for always encouraging consideration of the horse in
your newsletters.

   Mona Johnson (former Pony Club mom from Shasta Pony Club, CA)

Hi Mona,

What a great question for the next newsletter!  Yes, I do ride bareback and
bridleless in the bits video.  The most effective position for bareback
riding depends on the horse and rider's conformation.  Ideally your position
would not change from the Basic Balanced Position where your ears,
shoulders, hips, and heels are all in one vertical line.  Since you don't
have stirrups, there's no need for your heels to be down, but the bottoms of
your feet should be level.  If your toes point down, it tends to send your
weight up and you become top-heavy and unbalanced.  If you have a very
wide-barreled horse, your legs might naturally sit more forward than with a
slab-sided horse, but the deviation shouldn't be more than about 6" from the
Basic Balanced Position.  The most important thing to consider when riding
bareback is how the horse is responding.  If you start to see more tail
swishing, head shaking, reluctance to move forward, or spooking, these are
all signs that it might not be comfortable for the horse.

A well fitted saddle, while it might not feel as sensitive as riding
bareback, will distribute your weight more evenly along the horse's back
muscles, keeping the weight off of their bony spine as well.  Riding in the
saddle without stirrups is the best way to develop a strong leg and
independent seat.  If you and your horse enjoy bareback riding, there's no
reason you can't trot, canter, gallop, and jump that way, just spend the
time it takes to get strong enough to post the trot and hold yourself
lightly at the faster gaits.

Thanks for YOUR consideration of the horse :O)
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

Site for the Master Saddler's Association:
http://www.mastersaddlers.com/

******************************************************

Great information from an active member of England's Society of Master
Saddler's:

http://www.saddleworld.co.uk

******************************************************

Another version of the points of saddle fit:

http://www.equisearch.com/tack/eq9points447/

******************************************************

More ideas about saddle fitting for English and Western saddles:

http://www.AnimalDynamics.com/seminars/saddlefit/principles.html

******************************************************

The following website is linked from the national ponyclub.org website and I
can see why!  It is full of computer-based quizzes for all levels of horse
crazy kids, from breeds and points of the horse quizzes, to coloring pages,
leg bones, grooming tools, and even a section on women pioneers.  Find it
all at:

www.horse-country.com

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 29 section 11:

Baling twine

When baling twine is being used as a safety, or breakaway device, it MUST be
of the rope (hemp) variety.  Nylon baling twine (often yellow or orange in
color) may not be used for breakaway purposes.  Twine may be used as a ring
on a halter or lead shank for tying mounts or to tie up hay nets or buckets
(loop on screw-eye) but is NOT required.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Interview with Nicole Steib
2) Recommended products and services: Effax
3) Rally and rating tips: Formals tips
4) Questions and answers: Ponte polyester
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Cloud-Wild stallion of the
Rockies
6) Fun and educational websites
7) Featured rule: Spurs

*******************************************************************
Interview with Nicole Steib, C1, Liberty Oaks Pony Club
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

The strikingly handsome, tall dapple grey with a cloudy white mane and tail
trotted around the jumping arena at Hisken's Eventful Acres preparing for a
lesson.  His rider posted lightly with a loose rein and quiet legs.  Though
he looked like he might get strong over fences, Nicole had only a simple
snaffle bit in Marlin's mouth and rode with no crop or spurs.

As the jumping lesson progressed, Nicole worked on staying with Marlin's
motion better over the fences and asking him to jump more round without
pulling.  When asked what she could do to improve the jumps, her first
response was, "I could guide Marlin better with my seat and legs, and stay
lighter in my hands."  Jump after jump, Marlin would start to get heavy.
Nicole would quietly, gently guide him into a circle to rebalance and then
they would position themselves to the next fence.

By the end of the lesson I knew I was watching someone I admired, someone
who put the horse's well-being ahead of her own goals.  The next day I asked
for an interview.

Stormy: In the lesson yesterday I noticed that you have so much
consideration for your horse, it was amazing to watch how you focused so
well on riding from your seat and legs and not pulling on the horse.  How
did you learn that?

Nicole: I've been studying natural horsemanship.  I've always been a soft
rider, not aggressive.  I would see dressage horses ridden with big spurs
who were so nervous, they didn't seem happy, I didn't want to do that to my
horse.  When I had a horse that was hard, I would always go to the reins,
and it never got better.  Then I saw people who did natural horsemanship,
both the horses and riders looked happy.  I wanted to learn how to do that.

S: Tell me about Marlin, how long have you been working with him, what have
you accomplished?

N: He used to go Preliminary Eventing but when I went to look at him, he
just looked mad.  He would refuse to do a lot of things, he always had to
argue and fight back.  There are lots of stories of him rearing, throwing
people off, and then bolting away.  He had been ridden in a gag bit before
but I didn't want to do that to him.  When we first started working together
3 or 4 months ago he had a very hard mouth.  At first I had hard hands too,
I could hold the reins tight and he'd put his nose vertical but that was
about it, there was no real connection.

S: How did you change things?

N: I learned to focus on steering and getting him to move from my legs, not
the reins.  That's how I discovered how soft he really is.

S: So what do you think now, when you see someone else being overly harsh
with a horse, or using the reins rather than their seat to steer?

N: I just remember that I was like that too until I tried something new and
it worked.  It took lots of repetition, it's not something that's going to
come overnight.

S: If someone came to you kicking and pulling on their horse, what would you
have them do?

N: I'd have them work a lot on a loose rein, moving the horse away from the
leg and getting them to tune into the seat.  It might take a week or a
couple of months.  When they could ride around without reins I'd have them
start taking a rein connection again.

S: What about if a rider has a horse that can only be ridden in a harsh bit?

N: I'd suggest the rider learns on a safer horse and have a trainer work on
softening the horse in the meantime.  Maybe eventually they could work
together again.

S: Thank you so much for your thoughts and especially for the way you ride,
I really admire all the work you've done, I think you set a great example.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

Is  your Lexol leather conditioner running low?  Time to replace it with
Effax!  Effax Leather Balm (lederbalsam) is my current favorite leather
conditioner.  With beeswax,lanolin, mink, and avocado oils, it has a sweet,
honey-like smell and soaks into leather like warm butter on toast.  It's
much too nice to use with a rag, I just dip my fingers right into the
semi-solid goo and rub it into the leather.  A little goes a long way!

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************

For all you going to Kentucky, how do you think the pro's deal get through
formal inspections without even one penalty point?  Here are some tips you
may not have thought of:

Bring a hoofpick, mane comb, and rag with you.  If you can get your stable
manager to bring them, that's even better!  There's always that last pile of
poop they walked through that will need picking out, the boots, nose or dock
that will need wiping, and the tail that will need one last swipe with a
brush to get out the tangles from that tail swish.

Most importantly, be a few minutes early!  Being even one minute late will
give you 6 penalty points, with a point added for each additional minute
you're late.  Setting your watch and barn clock 6-7 minutes ahead of
official rally time should keep you on track.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,
I've been trying to find "ponte polyester" with no luck.  Is there,
by any chance, another name for it?  I did a search at Jo-Ann fabric online
- didn't find it.  Any ideas?
Thanks, Linda Talken, DC, English Hills Pony Club

(Note to new readers: ponte polyester is what the commercial standing wraps
are made of, it's a semi-stretchy fabric that comes in many colors.  It's
very easy to make your own standing wraps from it, see the May 2003 issue of
the Horse Management Newsletter at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2 for more
information.)

Hi Linda,
When I went to Jo-Ann fabrics in Vacaville they did have it, perhaps you can
call them and see if they have a different name for it, but it was listed as
ponte (pronounced pon tee) polyester in the store.  Let me know if you find
anything different!

Wrap it up,
Stormy

Well, I finally found the ponte polyester - it's at Hancock Fabrics in
Vacaville, Jo-Ann said they definitely don't carry it.  It's $4.79/yd at
Hancock and there is going to be a 30% off coupon in the paper this week
sometime.
Linda Talken, DC, English Hills Pony Club

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Cloud: Wild stallion of the Rockies, and
Cloud's Legacy: The wild stallion returns

These two nature documentaries about wild horses are great resources for
comparing natural, wild horse behavior with what we ask our horses to do.
Ginger Kathrens, a rider herself, films and narrates these two, hour long
PBS shows.

See more about it at this site: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/cloud/

For the best deal, both programs plus a special feature together on one DVD
for $19.95 + s/h go to: www.shopthirteen.org and type in "cloud" in the
product search window.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

Want more information about wild horses, or to support a charity that
returns wild horses to freedom?  How about visiting a wild horse sanctuary
in Southern California?  Ever wanted to meet the real "Spirit"?  It's all
available at: www.returntofreedom.org

Going on a foxhunt this year?  What does it mean when someone yells, "VIEW
HOLLOA!"?  Find the definition of this, and many other foxhunting terms in
the files section of the Horse Management Newsletter under, "Glossary of
foxhunting terms" at this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
Thanks to this year's quiz qualifiers for sending that along.

Do you have an Andalusian, Lusitano, or other horse with Spanish bloodlines?
Take a look at this beautiful website that supplies horse equipment from
Spain and Portugal including their beautiful saddles, and bridles.  Do you
know what a mosquero is?
http://www.elsuenoespanol.com/english/index.html

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 34 section D:

Spurs

Smooth metal spurs with a shank of no more than 3.8 cm (1 3/8 in.) and
without rowels are permitted.  The end must be blunt, and if curved, point
down.  Excess spur strap should be cut or tucked in.  Strap buckles lie just
to the outside of the front of the boot.  The spur points down, the longer
shank goes to the outside of the boot.  The shank should lie on the counter
of the boot or on spur blocks, parallel to the sole.  The straps of the
spurs should match the color of the rider's boots.  If spurs are to be worn
for any phase, they must be worn for formal inspection or safety check for
that phase.  Riders may put spurs on at stable shortly before inspection and
carefully walk to inspection.  After inspection, the rider may walk to
warm-up area and mount.  Spurs must be removed immediately after
dismounting.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: Curry combs and other assorted sundries
3) Recommended products and services: Blu-Kote
4) Rally and rating tips: Disposable wipes
5) Questions and answers: Bits to boots and back again
6) Fun and educational websites: Too many to shake a stick at
7) Featured rule

*******************************************************************
Comments from readers
*******************************************************************

Dear Stormy,

Once again, another super newsletter.

Most interesting article about the possible connection between wind-sucking
and ulcers....

And just LOVED Uncle Moose's Trailer Safety Quiz.  I can see preparing a few
tests of this type to review a dismounted lesson you've just taught.  I
mean, there's Uncle Moose, and Uncle Yuri and Aunt Hermione and great aunt
Hepsibah......... why I can see having a test for every single member of the
whole nutty family.  It will be great.

On your inevitable rally questions....

"Although we don¹t have 2 sizes of girth.  Section 19 says that different
sizes MAY be required.  What does MAY mean?"

Loved your answer..... although I would like to add one other explanation
for what MAY means, referring to the case where there's a pony who perhaps
does more eating than he needs to for his size and finds himself wearing the
exact same size girth as the bigger equine members of his team.  They were
all horses mind you, and much larger than he was, but the saddle he wore was
small and had short billets, and the girth was long, equal in length to the
others.  I know, I met him once at a rally and I measured because I just
couldn't believe it when the kids assured me that they all wore the same
size girth.  In this case, they did.

And thanks for the wonderful explanations of the whole bandaging issue, and
the difference between using pre-made vs. sheet cotton.  That one comes up
all the time, as well as the issue of the feed tub being required whether
you use it or not.  As for using a muck bucket with handles cut off, you
gave a great answer.....we had a kid who fed that way at D camp one year,
and every morning the muck bucket would be two stalls away from its original
location.  Horses being what they are, between boredom, playfulness and
willingness to share, they had fun passing it around from stall to stall
during the night.

And the whole hay/scale issue is another one that comes up constantly.  It
always takes so long for word to get filtered out into the ranks when they
change a rule like that, and having an outdated HM handbook sure doesn't
help us any.

That was a great response to the concerned AHMJ about the positive point
issue.  There's just one thing I would like to add to what you said.  We
always encourage all of the AHMJs to be sure to write down any good things
you see happening on the daily sheets for a team.  They may not get positive
points for those things, but when a chief is making decisions about whether
to take off one or two points for an offense, who knows, a lot of nice
remarks about how well prepared their equipment was, or how beautiful their
tack room is being kept, or how clean their grooming kits are, might give
the judge a better idea of how well prepared they are, or how well they're
working together as a team, and maybe they will only get one point off
instead of two because they're showing that they're consistently doing good
work.  And besides, it's important to let them know that we've noticed how
much effort they have put into preparation for the rally.  That's one way to
help keep it positive.

Keep up the good work, I love your newsletters.  I learn so much from each
one.......and I know I'll be using stuff from all of them in future
dismounted lessons.  Thanks for taking the time to do it.....

Marilynn Terstegge, mother of Mid Cal's HMO and illustrious editor of the
Horsin' Around! Calendar

*******************************************************************

Hey Stormy,
 
Love your newsletter.  Your answers are well thought out, and I particularly
loved the one about why we rally.
 
One little thing, though, on this latest newsletter.  In it you state that
the 2002 HM rules require a scale on the required equipment list.  While it
is true that scale is listed in parenthesis with scoop or pre-packaged, I
don't feel that it is correct to state that the 2002 HM Rules requires a
scale.  Here is my reasoning...  It is generally a given that if you are not
feeding grain or salt in a heavy duty feed tub, then it is not required for
you.  If you are feeding loose hay, and you know how much hay your horse
needs, then you don't need a scale.  See excerpt below from HM Rules, page
30, section 13, paragraph D.
 
"Hay rations need to be formulated by weight. The feed chart must indicate
what amount, by weight, of hay is fed each morning and evening. Prepackaging
of hay is not encouraged or recommended but is allowed. Do not use plastic
of any type (for packaging) as the hay may mold. A scale for accurate
measurement is recommended, but not required. The feed chart must indicate
the ration of hay and whether it is free choice or not. "
 
Joe White showed me this one in May of last year, when he chiefed for our
Show Jumping Rally.  It was a revelation to me!
 
Keep up the great work, and I'm looking forward to working with you at
Champs!
 
:) Mouse Terstegge, Mid Cal HMO

*******************************************************************

Stormy,

  Great newsletter as always.  It's nice to see other areas submitting
questions.  We should address the curry comb issue!  We now have the proper
one in our kits.

April Smith, DC, Northern Mines PC

April, the featured article this month is on just that!  Read on...

*******************************************************************
Curry combs and other assorted sundries
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

In every rally grooming kit is the required item called a "currycomb".  Most
of us think of the currycomb as an oval-shaped rubber grooming implement
with about 3 oval rows of teeth and a hand strap on the back.  The USPC D
manual on page 169 has this to say about them:

"Currycomb (rubber or plastic): for loosening caked mud and dirt and rubbing
the pony's skin.  It should be flexible, not too hard and sharp. (Metal
currycombs should only be used for cleaning the body brush.  They are too
sharp to use on a pony's skin.)"

(The metal currycomb that the manual refers to is drawn on page 171 and is
often also used as a shedding blade.)

Traditionally, there were two uses for the currycomb, first, to loosen caked
mud and dirt, bringing up the dander and oils from the horse's skin.  The
second use is to clean the body brush (remember a traditional body brush is
oval shaped and has short, relatively soft bristles and a hand strap) to
remove the hairs and dirt before you brush them back on the pony.  With the
currycomb's rows of teeth, it is able to grab the hairs.  Then, with a good
knock on a post or your boot bottom, the hairs fall out of the currycomb,
ready for the next swipe.

About 15 years ago the lines started getting blurred when something called
the Grooma Groomer came out.  This tool fulfilled the first job of a
currycomb, removing caked mud and dirt and bringing dander and oils to the
surface, and the horses seemed to like it even better than the traditional
currycombs.  However, it didn't work very well at cleaning out the body
brush because of its large cone-shaped teeth that were no longer set in rows
that would grab the hairs.  Another imposter hit the market being called a
"plastic currycomb" but this was even worse, it has probably about 100 rigid
plastic teeth and often also will have a hose attachment which makes it
great for bathing horses down to the skin, but is quite rough on the horse's
coat when used dry, and certainly isn't good for cleaning the body brush.
The hairs get stuck in the plastic curry rather than knocking free as with a
Grooma or traditional currycomb.  Other products we see today trying to full
the currycomb's task include jelly scrubbers, rubber grooming mitts, various
massage tools, and a "thick rubber curry" which has rubber teeth similar to
the plastic curry with a hose attachment and is great for working shampoo
into the coat, but not for getting off mud, bringing out dander and
certainly not for cleaning the body brush.

Now it's time to add one more ingredient into this stew.  It was decided
that for a body brush in the required grooming kit, Chief Horse Management
judges would not only accept the traditional oval, short bristled,
relatively soft brushes with hand straps, but that we would accept any brush
that was softer than a dandy brush.  What we'll now see 9 times out of 10 is
a long bristled soft brush, not a real body brush.  Last year I wrote an
article about the uses of a traditional body brush versus a long bristled
soft brush.  The main thing to remember is that a traditional body brush
does a much better job at smoothing the oils from the skin over the coat and
creating that "bloom" in a well cared for mount.

If a rider is using a long bristled soft brush, the bristles are designed to
flick off the hair and dust themselves, so a currycomb is no longer required
to clean the body brush.

Are you starting to see the dilemma now?  Believe me, at past Chief Horse
Management seminars we've spent hours debating this issue, with people
passionately clinging to their own side of the fence.  With my own horses, I
resolve it by using a Grooma Groomer, jelly scrubber, or other rubber
massage tool depending on the horse's sensitivity and then I hold a metal
curry comb when I'm using my traditional body brush in order to clean out
the bristles after each swipe.

Because there was never any resolution among Chiefs, the competitor will
find some Chiefs accept currycombs that don't fit the traditional
description, and others that will only accept oval shaped rubber tool with
the hand strap and 3 oval rows of teeth.  My suggestion is to get the
traditional currycomb, learn how to use it, and keep it in your grooming
kit.  One other advantage of this type is that they cost less than $2.00
while the other styles start at $6.00 and go up from there.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

The Dr. Naylor brand wound dressing called "Blu-Kote" has been around at
least as long as I've had horses.  It's a very distinctive purple spray or
liquid that works great on stubborn sores.  My family used it on our burro,
Sixpence, who would get nearly eaten alive by flies on her legs.  I forgot
about it for a while until my horse vet gave it to me to use on a weeping
sore.  Since then, I've used it on open hock sores, stitched areas, and
generally any wound that I would like to dry out and keep flies away from.
The label says it's also appropriate for ringworm treatment, itchy fungus
eczema, and foot and pad sores in dogs (don't use it on cats!)  Blu-Kote is
widely available at tack stores and in catalogs.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************

Many of you have already caught on to solving the grungy sponge dilemma, but
for those of you still looking for an alternative to the face and dock
sponges in your grooming kit, you may now use disposable wipes (diaper
wipes, or just disposable hand wipes).  This method is much more sanitary
than sponges, and even better, you don't have to label the individual wipes!
If you want to be more environmentally friendly, washcloths are another
alternative.  They still need to be labeled face or dock, and with the
competitor's name or number, but they are much easier to label and can be
machine washed at the end of the rally!

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Stormy,

Got this question from someone in my region.

"I need some information.  Whitney (D3) is using a Myler combination bit.
Does this bit need two reins or a bit converter or can it be used with one
rein?  I thought you might have a direct contact to a person who could give
me the rule on this. She will be using it for show jumping. (or hopes to) I
want to be able to send the kids with some documentation so there won't be
any confusion next weekend.  Thanks!"

I have not seen a "Myler Combination Bit" before.  Rider in question is a
D3.  Your thoughts as a bit expert?  It's a very complicated looking bit.  A
picture is at http://www.toklat.com/myler/mbits_cheek_o.html.  I actually
thought the only approved Myler bits were the snaffles with the simple
curves.  Anyway, appreciate all the help you can give.

Rich Bensinger, CHMJ White Mountain region

Hi Rich,

Great question, I don't know how much Pony Club authority I have in
answering this question, but I can certainly explain how the bit works and
the problems they might run into.

There are several variations of the Myler combination bit.  Both the
mouthpieces and cheeks are variable.  What makes it the "combo" bit is
that along with a bit that can be used as a snaffle or gag/elevator/curb
depending on the rein placement, it also has the nose/jaw piece that if
the lower rein placement is used, the contraption will have pressure on the
bars, tongue, palate, corners of lips, chin groove, poll, AND top of the
nosebone.  The nose part serves to make it a combination of a
gag/elevator mix similar to a Pessoa and a mechanical hackamore.  I'm sure
people who have horses that tend to lower their heads or pull on the bit
might find it a helpful bit to have until they deaden the nerves on their
horse's face.  I would not let a student of mine ride in it but in the hands
of an expert it may fill a niche.

I would recommend for these bits that they be treated at least the same
as we treat Pessoa bits.  For a D, they could use two reins, one giving
snaffle action, and the other giving gag/elevator/curb action or use a
converter that would at least tone down the gag/elevator/curb effect.  For a
C they would need to use two reins unless they want to use the one ring
immediately below the snaffle ring.  In the picture you sent there isn't a
rein placement immediately below the snaffle ring but there are other combo
bit varieties that do look more similar to the Pessoa bit with the two rings
under the snaffle ring, I show one in my video.  Look here:
http://www.toklat.com/myler/mbits_cheek_p.html .

For Dressage rallies, the Dressage phase of Eventing, and the flat portion
of C ratings they would certainly not be allowed.  The Mylers that are
approved for these phases are loose ring, eggbutt, D ring, full, and
half cheek snaffle bits with the comfort snaffle wide barrel or traditional
single jointed mouthpiece.

If you want to ask someone with more authority in the Pony Club
organization, try Wayne Quarles.

That's my 2 cents!
Stormy

***********************************************************

Hi Stormy, & Wayne,

Our show jumping rally is in two days, and I've received a question
regarding earplugs.  Can a horse wear them at a show jumping rally?

I looked in the discipline rules, and did not see anything specifically
forbidding them, so I would see that as an okay for them.  Only blinkers &
hoods were specifically forbidden.  (page 5, article 15, paragraph 2)

It seems to me that if we don't want a horse semi-blinded, wouldn't we also
not want them to be semi-deaf?  Having never used any of these items, I'm
curious about it.

:) Mouse Terstegge, Mid Cal HMO

Mouse,

     As all saddlery rules generally follow the USEF rules, and ear plugs are
not mentioned in the USEF Jumper or general rules, the USPC Show Jumping
rules nor the HM Handbook, it would seem that at this point they would have
to be allowed.
    I have copied this to the SJ committee Chairs and the VP of Activities,
for their input if they can find something different.

Wayne Quarles, Activities Services Director, USPC

Hi Mouse,

     Wayne has the definitive answer on earplugs at rallies, but here's my
observation.  I actually think they are very helpful for some horses.  I
know when I wear earplugs personally, I can focus and relax 100 times more
than without, even if it's during the day and I'm out doing something.  I
think it just calms a certain hypersensitivity that some horses (and people)
have.  I've heard of some types of Autistic people getting much relief from
earplugs and dark sunglasses, they don't have the same noise and sight
filters that other people have, so this is a way they can help filter out
over-stimulation.  Hopefully on a cross country course a horse will not have
to be listening to any rustling bushes that may have cougars awaiting lunch.

Just smile and nod :0)
Stormy

***********************************************************

Hi Stormy,

     I have a few questions about bitting and several other issues.  First,
is a D-ring snaffle with coppers rollers allowed in the Pony Club flat part
of a test? the jumping part?  And I have also been confused on the double
rein thing, I have been using a bubble bit for cross-country with only one
rein on the second ring, is that legal in Pony Club?  And on that bubble bit
I added a curb strap is that legal?  I know that the bubble bit was not
designed to be used with the curb, but with my horse is relaxing better with
it.  Do you have a better idea on bits for me to try?

     The next round of questions begins with bell boots.  On my horse, his
pasterns get torn up really badly when I use bell boots, but I'm worried
that if I don't use bell boots that he'll injure his heels just as bad.  Do
you have any ideas for this?  Because I'm shipping my horse back to Kentucky
I'm also wondering about what type of shipping boots would be best for this
length of a trip?
  Thanks for your help.

Christina Brennan, English Hills PC, C2

Hi Christina,

     Great questions as always.  Any bit with rollers is not allowed for
dressage rallies, the dressage part of Eventing rallies, and the flat
portion of ratings if you're a C or above.  The one exception is the Myler
brand comfort snaffle wide barrel mouthpiece which has a part that looks
like a thin roller, but doesn't roll freely, and is designed just so the bit
can flex a little but not pinch in the mouth.

     The bubble bit (a.k.a. Pessoa, Dutch gag, European elevator, etc...) is
now allowed to be used with only one rein if it is on the ring directly
below the snaffle ring, or on the snaffle ring.  If you use any ring lower,
a C or above rider will be required to use 2 reins with at least one on the
snaffle ring.  If it's a D rider, they may use bit converters.

     By adding a curb strap to the bubble bit, you limit the amount of gag
action, and add a vise-action on the lower jaw.  If your horse relaxes
better like this, it's probably because now the bit can't rise as high in
his mouth, he may not like it hitting his molars.  There is nothing
specifically disallowing a curb strap on the bubble bit, but ultimately, the
technical delegate at a show or rally will decide whether it's allowed.

     I know you have a bitless bridle, so something you might like to try is
using the bitless bridle with a snaffle bridle over it.  Put on the bitless
bridle like normal, then take a snaffle headstall and bit (minus the
cavesson and browband) and put it over the bitless bridle.  You then hold
the reins like you would with a double bridle or pelham, with the bitless
bridle reins on the outside of your pinkies and the snaffle rein between the
pinkie and ring finger.  Try it for a couple of weeks before making any
final decision, if you're not used to riding with two reins it will take at
least that long to get comfortable with it.  I find this is a great way to
keep the benefits of both the bitless bridle and a snaffle bit at the same
time.  The other benefit, is that when you're required to use just a snaffle
bit, your horse won't have to take time adjusting to it.

     For bell boots, you could try the no-turn kind, but I haven't had great
luck with them, they always seem to turn anyway.  My best recommendation
would be to either use bell boots with fleece at the top (the only problem
you'll run into with these is if you try to ride through a field with
foxtails or burrs) or there's another device similar to a bell boot called
an Italian jumper quarter bell boot.  It is literally about 1/4 the size of
a traditional bell boot and designed to fit snugly around the coronary band
and extending up to cover the bulbs of the heel while leaving the front of
the hoof relatively free to feel if the horse hits a pole.  They are also
described as having a non-chafe design for sensitive horses.  I've seen them
in action and they seem to work very well.  You can find both styles in the
Dover catalog, or at www.doversaddlery.com.

     For shipping the horse to Kentucky, the first thing you want to do is
check with the shipper for their requirements.  Very often they require that
the horse not have boots or bandages on.  This is actually a really sensible
requirement because the shipper may either not have the time, experience, or
desire to fix the boots or bandages if the horse gets into trouble with them
during the 3 or so days he may be in transit.  If you were trailering the
horse yourself, I'd definitely say to do the official pony club shipping
wraps.  These will provide the most protection in the case of an accident,
they will be the most difficult for a horse to get off, and they will also
prevent most swelling.  There is no shipping boot that will prevent
swelling.  Again, I would not trust a horse in these wraps for more than a
day without a knowledgeable person rewrapping each day.  If by chance the
shipper allows shipping boots and you feel comfortable with them checking
the boots often, the Lende style boots (also Dover makes a good generic one)
or the Woof shipping boots (or Dover equivalent) are good choices.

Good luck in Kentucky!
Stormy

Note: The shipper that we will be using from the Sierra Pacific region to
Kentucky requests that no boots or bandages be used.

***********************************************************

Hi Stormy,

     I have a rally question.  We are having a show jumping rally  and a
young un asked if it mattered what color the saddle pad was.  I thought it
only has to be clean and in good repair.  I know the hunter/jumper types
prefer the fluffy, fitted pads, and the eventers the more utilitarian pads,
but other than that, I didn't think it mattered.  Any advice?

Marcy Neher, HMO and provisional CHMJ, Inland Empire region

Hi Marcy,

     Pads for show jumping can be whatever the competitor prefers.  Pads
actually aren't even required, remember those old British books where nobody
used a numnah [the British word for saddle pad]?  Of course then you'd have
to remember to clean and condition the underside of your saddle very well
after each ride.

Happy chiefing!
Stormy

***********************************************************

Hi Stormy!

     I have a strange question that I don't have an answer for and I thought
that I would ask a few of my chief friends.  The issue of chaps, half chaps,
Ariats, have not been allowed at rally or ratings in the past accept the
polocrosse rally, where it states it is allowed in the discipline rules.  I
don't have a problem with C's on up, but where the D's are supposed to be
neat and clean, it might be an issue soon.  For instance, the show jumping
rules do not say that they are not allowed, and they refer to the horse
management rules which list formal and informal attire.  On the formal
inspection pages the say neat, clean and appropriate attire for D's.  They
also refer to the AHSA (now USA Equestrian) rules, which most pony clubbers
do not have.  What was the reason that these chap things are not allowed in
the first place?  I  must be having a senior moment.  No one has been
presented to me for a D formal  but  they have been asking.  Half chaps are
becoming quite popular out here in the west, pardner!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Linda M. Hagerman, CHMJ, Northwest Region

Hi Linda,

     I know half chaps are specifically forbidden in Dressage and Eventing
rallies in order to be in line with USA Equestrian rules.  In this region
generally the clubs have taught the members not to ride with them on the
premise that they give the rider a false sense of security that they lose
when they change to tall boots.  I know it's a moot point if you're using
smooth half chaps, but some people also believe that there is more of a
safety issue with half chaps possibly coming loose or catching on things
which would be more likely than with tall boots or jodhpurs.

     Personally, I love and use half chaps but I don't feel strongly enough
one way or the other about them to make it an issue at a national level.
The topic was brought up on the Chief Horse Management Judge's digest and
the general consensus was that half chaps need to be regulated by each
specific discipline, not by the CHMJ group.

Keep it neat and clean,
Stormy

***********************************************************

Greetings oh Wise One,

     As the most knowledgeable person in all matters of bits I'm seeking a
bit of advice.  As you know Emma (11 years old) is taking her trusty steed
Echo to the D camp.  We can trust that Echo will get pretty strong out in
the open and I am considering a stronger bit for the cross country riding.

     Actually I have no idea what will give a little more control without
being overly harsh on the Pony. I'm thinking kimberwicke with a single joint
or a D ring snaffle with a slow twist.  Echo is currently ridden in a loose
ring snaffle.  On a good day she is good.  In a bad day she is quite strong.

     I want Emma to have the confidence she needs to be able to dictate the
pace and am afraid that Echo will take control when things get exciting.

     Any thoughts?  (Somebody should do a video on bits - it's so confusing!)

David Forsythe, DC, Valley of the Moon PC, Assistant HM Judge

Greetings oh Wise One in training,

     I'll just have to look into my crystal ball about what might work, you
really never know until you try.  First, I need to stand on my soapbox and
say that in my perfect world, nobody would ride cross country until they
could always control the Pony with the mildest bit or bitless method of
control.  I know that not everybody lives in my world, so here's the next
best choice.  I'd avoid the kimberwick with a jointed mouth piece and the
slow twist snaffle, each of those are prone to cause too much pain which
could be a good reason for Echo to bolt or refuse.  If you want Emma to have
a little more leverage without undue pain, either an Uxeter kimberwick with
a low port or mullen mouth, or a pelham with a low port or mullen mouth and
bit converters would be in order.  The mullen mouth Uxeter kimberwick would
be first on my list because the reins can be adjusted in the different slots
depending on how Echo responds.  Ideally Emma would use the mullen mouth
pelham with two reins, but she probably couldn¹t handle the two reins just
yet.

Here's the closest version I could find with a quick Internet search:

http://www.toklat.com/myler/mbits_cheek_d.html .  I'd recommend that one
with the mullen barrel mouthpiece.  Make sure you get the correct size.
Echo would probably be at least a 5".  For fitting a mullen mouth, just
determine whether your current bit fits without pushing in on the lips at
all and then measure it from the inside of one ring to the inside of the
other.  Myler bits are definitely not the cheapest but they are good
quality, just don¹t get misled by some of their marketing techniques.  I
think they have a bit rental program so you can try it before you buy it.
Take look around on that website to see.

See you at D camp!
Stormy


*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

First up is a fantastic resource site by Jessica Jahiel.  Jessica Jahiel's
HORSE-SENSE Newsletter is a free, subscriber-supported electronic Q&A
newsletter which deals with all aspects of horses, their management, riding,
and training. Since 1995, Jessica Jahiel, award-winning author, clinician,
and lecturer, has been writing 8-12 articles a month based on questions from
subscribers. Over 1150 articles are currently indexed and searchable in her
newsletter archives.

I have spent hours looking over Jessica's questions and answers, and can
recommend her advice without any reservations.  Look for her site at:
www.horse-sense.org

***********************************************************

This next site is of special interest to any upper level dressage riders out
there.  It's a novel concept.  With a subscription fee, the subscriber has
access to video taped lessons from the world's top dressage trainers right
on their computer.  Of course you need a PC and a high speed internet
connection, neither of which I have, but the site looks to be worth the
subscription!
www.dressageclinic.com

***********************************************************

Third up is the Kentucky Equine Research site.  This site contains lots of
up to the minute research papers concerning equine nutrition and other care
aspects.  Check out the library link and especially the article about
dispelling feeding myths.
www.ker.com

***********************************************************

Does your horse flinch when you brush his back or mount up?  Try this
article:
http://www.worldzone.net/recreation/virtuallyhorses/sorebacks.html

***********************************************************

Do you really need to deworm every 6-8 weeks?  Have a fecal count done and
see!  These two sites talk about a service where you can send your horse's
fecal sample to get it tested by a vet for parasites at a very low cost.
This site says that it's only $4.95 for a limited time, and someone else
said it was $10.00.  Either way, it's a good investment!
http://www.americanhorsepubs.org/communication/communique_archive/news_updat
e_134.htm
Here's the site that talks more about it though rather difficult to
navigate:
www.thenaturalhorsevet.net

*******************************************************************
Featured rule
*******************************************************************

Page 35 Section 23 B:
During the actual formal inspection, or safety checks, running martingales
must be in place and correctly fitted.  However, if coming a distance from
the barn, the martingale should be knotted at the chest, with the reins out
of the rings, and the mount led to the inspection/safety check with the
reins over the mount's head [off the neck].  Then the reins should be put
back through the rings and the mount presented as if ready to be mounted.
Mounts requiring boots need to come to formal inspection and/or safety
checks with boots on and properly fitted.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers: Wind-sucking and ulcers
2) Feature: Uncle Moose's Trailer Safety Quiz
3) Recommended products and services: Future Fork
4) Rally and rating tips: D1 prep guide
5) Questions and answers: Rally questions galore
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Horses Never Lie by Mark Rashid
7) Horse Management Judging: The Big Picture
8) Featured rule: Longeing requirements

******************************************************************
Comments from readers
******************************************************************
The following comment is in regards to the question last month about a
wind-sucking horse.

Hi Stormy,

I have a hunch about wind-sucking in horses that are stressed. While a lot
of scientist types say horses wind suck due to lack of forage in their diet
in the stabled environment, many owners of wind-sucking horses that I have
asked feed very adequate amounts of forage.  So why do their horses
wind-suck?  I am starting to wonder if horses like Marcy¹s in your
newsletter may in fact have ulcers induced by some trauma, and the
wind-sucking somehow helps to alleviate their discomfort.  This would
explain why Marcy¹s horse tends to wind-suck more when stressed.  Horses
that tend to suffer from ulcers may not have ulcers all the time, and as
with people their ulcers flare up in response to stress.  I would be very
interested in hearing if Marcy¹s horse does in fact have ulcers, or if
treating the horse for ulcers reduces its wind-sucking.  I do know a horse
that did have ulcers and although she did not wind-suck, she would put her
head up in the air, open her mouth and role her top lip as a pain response.

Just a thought.
Clair Spackman, DC, Panache Pony Club

Stormy's note: I forwarded Clair's comment along to Marcy and then did some
research, it definitely would make sense that the wind-sucking behavior is
linked to ulcers in this case.  I remembered hearing something like it years
ago but had totally forgotten.  For equine ulcers, they used to give the
human ulcer treatments Zantac or Tagamet but now the drug of choice is
GastroGard.

For more information on cribbing and ulcers, see the websites below:

From the GastroGard website:
http://gastrogard.us.merial.com/equine_ulcers.asp

A study of generics compared to "gastrogard" at UC Davis:
http://www.vetcontact.com/en/art.php?a=111&t=aktuell&f=

An interesting Australian herbal article about ulcers:
http://www.herbal-treatments.com.au/articles_equine_stomach_ulcers.html

Another interesting one:
http://www.xcodesign.com/aaep/displayArticles.cfm?ID=215

One last one:
http://www.research.vt.edu/resmag/2000resmag/horseulcers.html

Marcy replied:    Our vet calls out of the blue and suggests that Holly may
have ulcers and we should start her on meds.

Hey, thanks!  Marcy Neher, HMO Inland Empire region

*******************************************************************

Stormy,

I think this family [the Neher's] ought to be recruited to do a lot more
writing.

Eileen O'Farrell, Panache Pony Club graduate A's mom

Stormy's note:  Here you go!

*******************************************************************
Uncle Moose's Trailer Safety Quiz
*******************************************************************
by Talitha Neher

         Including:
             Beating crazed thieves back with a tire iron
             What Uncle Yuri shouldn¹t do when the light turns green
             A river of blood on the highway
             Swamp Fever‹a bad, bad thing
             A mummy in the trailer

Questions:

1.    Uncle Yuri is driving you to a hunter pace in Possum Crick.  On the
way there, you stop for a red light.  In the lane next to you, two shiftless
louts in a red Camaro are revving their engine.  The light turns green. What
should you say?

     1. Gun it, Uncle Yuri!  Let¹s show that hunk of junk what this baby can
do.
     2. Do you want another beer?
     3. Be sure to accelerate slowly so that the horses don¹t scramble.
     4. Did you remember to close the trailer door?  I know I didn¹t.

2.    What is a Coggins test for?

     1. Hairy Heel Wart
     2. Coggins Disease
     3. Equine Infectious Anemia
     4. Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis

3.    Mack the Knife just made you a bet.  He bets that you can¹t name five
things to check on the truck or trailer before you leave for a trip.  If
Mack is going to cut off a lock of hair for each thing you can¹t name, what
could you list to save your hair?

4.    Which is not something you need to carry in the trailer when you
travel?

     1. Equipment to change a tire.
     2. Water from home.
     3. Beer from home.
     4. An extra halter and leadrope.

5.    If someone offered to bet you fifty dollars and a year¹s supply of
kitty litter that you couldn¹t name three things you need to change a tire,
what could you say to get the money?

6.    If you got stopped at the state line and Officer Friendly said ³You
look like a shifty-eyed, low-down dirty hoss thief if I ever saw one,² what
are three things with a description of your horse you could show him to
prove him wrong?

7.    On a long trailer ride, how often should you stop?

     1. Every time I see a casino, baby, every time I see a casino.
     2. At least once every twenty-four hours, so that the driver can get
some rest.
     3. About every four to six hours, so that you can get the horses out to
stretch their legs, pee (some horses won¹t pee in the trailer) and have a
drink.
     4. Stop?  Are you crazy?  Once I get in my driving groove I don¹t stop
till I get where I¹m going.  You kids can pee in a cup and throw it out the
window.

8.    Which is an appropriate place to stop the trailer and walk the horses?

     1. In the parking lot of the casino.
     2. In the pet area of a rest stop.
     3. On the side of the interstate.
     4. At the gas station.

9.    When traveling with your horse, which is the most appropriate halter
type to choose?

     1. All nylon.  Like meat and fur, leather is murder.
     2. All leather, or nylon with a leather crownpiece or breakaway strap,
so that it will break in an emergency.
     3. All nylon.  It¹s so much easier to color coordinate with nylon.
     4. None.  The horse is better able to balance if he is left free in the
trailer.

10.  Which is the best use for a tire iron?

     1. To remove a hubcap when changing a tire.
     2. To encourage a reluctant horse to load.
     3. To fend off an assailant such as a car or horse thief.
     4. To break into a convenience store if it is closed and you are hungry.

11.  Of the following, which is most important to consider when selecting
shipping wraps or boots for your horse?

     1. Whether or not they match my horse¹s halter, lead rope, fly sheet and
grooming kit.
     2. How well the color complements my horse¹s coat.
     3. Whether or not there is adequate padding and whether the leg is
covered from just below the knees and hocks including the coronary band and
the bulbs of the heel.
     4. How long it takes me to put them on.  I want to be done in ten
minutes.  Tops.


12.  Which of the following would be acceptable ways to protect your horse¹s
legs when traveling?

     1. Commercial shipping boots with adequate padding and which protect the
horse from at least just below the knees and hocks including the coronary
band and bulbs of the heel.
     2. No wraps but two feet of straw on the floor of the trailer.
     3. Plain polo wraps or track wraps.
     4. Sheet cotton padding followed by flannel wraps, covering the horse
from just below the knees and hocks including the coronary band and bulbs of
the heel.

13.  What are trailer wraps for, anyway?

     1. To keep the horse¹s legs warm.
     2. To protect the legs from injury‹a horse can step on himself or be
stepped on by the horse next to him if he scrambles while in the trailer.
     3. So that if the horse pees in the trailer her legs won¹t get wet.
     4. It¹s just one more way to make my horse look good.

14.  Why is protecting the coronary band such a big deal?

     1. Have you ever heard of a coronary?  Like a heart attack?  If a horse
steps on his coronary band, he will get an instant heart attack.
     2. There are lots of major blood vessels in this area, so an injury here
will result in serious blood loss.  You will only become aware of this when
you notice a river of blood running down the highway in your rear view
mirror.
     3. Damage to the coronary band can affect future hoof growth and
therefore future soundness.
     4. Lies.  It¹s all lies.  The coronary band is the least important part
on the whole horse.

15.  How should the horse be secured in the trailer?

     1. With a quick-release knot or a safety snap on a trailer tie.
     2. Tied up so tight it would take a team of nuclear physicists to get
that knot undone‹I¹m not taking any chances on him getting loose in the
trailer.
     3. With a bike chain to deter horse thieves.
     4. I told you before‹horses balance better when left loose in the
trailer.

16.  If something went wrong with the quick release knot and you had to get
the horse free in a hurry, what could you use?

     1. An axe.
     2. The pocket knife in your travel kit.
     3. A tire iron.  This is truly a tool of many uses.
     4. A broken beer bottle.

17.  After arriving at the hunter pace, Uncle Yuri suggests that you tie
your horse to the trailer and go find your entry packet while he takes the
truck to a casino he remembers passing a few miles back.  What do you think?

     1. It would only be okay to tie the horse to the trailer with the truck
still attached, and the horse under supervision.
     2. This would be okay as long as she is tied directly to the trailer on
a long line so that she can graze, since it might take you a while to get
your number.
     3. Since you will both be gone, it would be best to use that bike chain
in case a horse thief comes along.
     4. She would be more comfortable if she were left loose in the trailer.

18.  As regards equine apparel, what is the bare minimum for safe travel?

     1. A leather halter or one with a leather crownpiece or breakaway strap,
a lead rope tied in a quick-release knot or a quick-release trailer tie and
shipping boots or wraps which protect the horse from at least just below the
knees and hocks including the coronary band and bulbs of the heel.
     2. A leather halter with a nose fuzzy, a poll guard in case he bumps his
head, a sheet in summer or a rug in winter, a fly mask, a trailer tie,
shipping wraps, knee boots, hock boots and a tail wrap.  If that horse isn¹t
wrapped up like a mummy, I don¹t want him anywhere near the trailer.
     3. All tacked up and ready to go the minute he steps out of the trailer.
     4. How many times do I have to tell you?  Naked, natural and loose in
the trailer.

19.  When hauling a trailer, it is best to drive:

     1. Offensively
     2. Defensively
     3. Aggressively
     4. Passive-aggressively

20.  What is Swamp Fever?

     1. Malaria
     2. Equine Infectious Anemia
     3. What Uncle Yuri gets when he drinks too much moonshine down in the
bayou.
     4. Equine Protozoal Myelitis

Bonus question:  Mack the Knife wants to make another bet.  Mack bets that
you can¹t name five things you should always bring when you travel with your
horse.  If you lose, Mack will cut off your belt.  What could you say to
save your belt?

Super bonus question:  Equine Infectious Anemia has reared its ugly head
several times in this quiz.  Why is it such a bad thing?

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Be sure to look up the answers, they are just as good as the questions!  You
can find a printable version of this quiz, followed by the answers at the
following link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
Look for the Uncle Moose's Trailer Safety Quiz link.

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Talitha Neher was a Pony Clubber in Idaho (did the pony club thing, liked
run/swim/jump/shoot, liked dressage/jump/jump), got older, taught at some
camps, helped local kids, earned a Creative Writing Masters degree in
England, and is currently waiting for the last weeks of vet school to
drag by so she can get the internship thing done and finally have a horse
again.  Talitha likes bat-eared, muscular dogs with undershot jaws and screw
tails and kayaks big enough for bat-eared dogs to ride along.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

Future Fork, just the best apple picker ever made!

Back sometime in the '80s when plastic head manure forks were invented,
there were the Future Forks.  I had one of those original forks, and still
had it at least through the beginning of this millennium when a conflict
involving an ATV and a horse shelter left it in pieces.  How many of you old
timers out there can boast about a plastic manure fork that lasted over 10
years of consistent use?  I've since replaced it with two more Future Forks
(I like help when I'm shoveling) that have been trouble free as well.  There
are dozens of imitations, Fantastic Forks, Wonder Forks, Pro Pick Forks and
others, many of which come in more attractive colors than the Future Fork's
basic black, and are priced lower as well, but if you want durability,
Future Fork is the name to remember.  There's a reason they're still on the
market after all these years.

When I worked at other barns and the employer would supply the cheap rakes,
we'd end up with what we called "Zen Forks".  These were the ones that would
lose a tine every month or so until you ended up with a true Zen fork, where
you learn the lesson that you just have to let some of the manure pass
through.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: D1 prep guide
*******************************************************************

Hooray, this completes the series of prep guides for the D1-HA levels which
started 7 months ago.  I have even begun to see the results.  At a rating I
did for the Shasta and Durham-Chico clubs, many of the kids had used the
study guides and passed their ratings with ease!  Please keep these on file
for your future ratings.  The questions are ones that give a good indication
of the depth of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections may
be covered.

The guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only intended to get
you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be found in the
Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians, trainers,
farriers, and graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this knowledge from books
is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of practical experiences
and applications of this knowledge.  These guides should be used along with
the standards.

**Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for these
questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are the
most important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do to
find the answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
~Stormy

Why is it important to make sure your pony is cooled out before you stop
riding?
How can you safely hang a water bucket in a stall?
How can you safely feed a horse hay in a pasture?
Should you feed a horse grain from your hand?
Which is the first tool you should use when grooming?
How is a curry comb properly used?
What is the difference between a dandy brush and a body brush?
How can you tell if your saddle and pad are in the right place?
How can you tell if your bit is on the bridle correctly?
Why are people always telling you to clean your tack?
What are 6 parts of the bridle?
What are 6 parts of the saddle?
When another horse takes off in the arena, what should you do if you are
riding too?
When you're in a warm up arena and you're coming towards someone, should you
pass them on the left or right side?
When you're riding how much space should be between your horse and the horse
ahead of you?
When was the last time the vet looked at your horse?  What did he or she do
with your horse?
Why is it important to make sure the pony's feet are picked out?
When you're putting a halter on your pony, where should you be standing?
What should you do before you actually put the halter on?
Which side are ponies typically used to being led on?
Which is the safest direction to turn your pony if you need to turn around
when you're leading?

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Along with rally season, come the inevitable rally questions...

Hi Stormy,

I wanted to ask you a couple of questions about rally kits.  We are putting
together a 2nd HM kit and I am amazed at the cost so we are being frugal and
buying 2nd hand etc where possible.  On the over night rally list it says ³4
leg bandages with appropriate padding for 4 stable wraps².  I know in the
past we have been told that when we have horses and ponies on the team which
is pretty much each rally we need to have leg pillows that would fit both
sizes of horse.  Do we need 4 pony pillows and 4 horse pillows or will 2 of
each size work? Section 19 of the HM rule book is a bit vague.

In the same vein, we have been told that we need spare tack to fit all
horses/ponies and therefore in our first kit we have a horse and a pony
bridle.  Although we don¹t have 2 sizes of girth.  Section 19 says that
different sizes MAY be required.  What does MAY  mean?  Obviously if we need
it we will buy it but I don¹t want to be misspending money!

Thanks for MAYBE clarifying these points :).

Clair Spackman, DC, Panache Pony Club

Hi Clair,

The 4 leg bandages with appropriate padding needs to be enough stable
bandages and padding so that 4 horse legs, or 4 pony legs could be bandaged,
or that 8 legs (4 pony and 4 horse) could be properly padded if there are a
mix of horses and ponies on the team.  It's quite creative to use 2 of each
size, and in all but the worst emergencies that would probably be
sufficient, but the rules are talking about 4 of each size.  It is
permissible to use the same wrap material for both (flannel, or "standing
wrap"), but the padding would have to be different sizes.  The cheapest way
if you can't find second hand pillow or no bow padding, would be to make up
the pony and horse sized padding from sheet cotton and then roll them
individually so a person in an emergency could wrap a leg quickly without
having to make the padding from a whole bag of sheet cotton.

Spare tack does need to fit all equines on the team.  What people will often
do to avoid having two girths if there are ponies and horses on the team, is
to have a small girth with a girth extender included.  The horse management
judges may choose to test out the girths to make sure they do fit all
horses, so do make sure it can fit!  The other thing is if some saddles have
long billets and others have short, the spare(s) need(s) to fit in all
cases.  The part that says "MAY" refers to the case where perhaps there are
large ponies and small horses on the team, in which case the same spares
might fit all of them.

Maybe this answers your questions :0)
Stormy

***********************************************************

Hello Stormy,

    I have a question about the stable wraps on the equipment checklist, my
club for years has put 2 bags of sheet cotton in the vet box, but recently I
have been questioned about whether or not sheet cotton would work in an
emergency. But when I went over the checklist it was not clear to me what
the HM judges would be looking for.  But is it necessary that the bandages
be premade or bought?  Can a couple of bags of sheet cotton in the box be
marked down as not having the stable wraps?

Thank you,
Christina Brennan, C2, English Hills Pony Club


Hi Christina,

Thanks for the question!  The padding for the stable wraps needs to already
be made into 4 individual pads of about 7-8 sheets each (rolled up
separately) that will fit all of the equines on the team.  You may need 8
individual paddings if there are a mix of horses and ponies.  In an
emergency the sheet cotton will certainly work well but you don't want to
take the time to open a new bag of sheet cotton and make up the pads while
the horse may be gushing blood.  If you do use premade "pillow wraps" or
"no-bows" do make sure it fits everyone on the team as well.

For more on making your own wraps and padding, don't forget to refer back to
the May 2003 issue at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2 .

Happy wrapping,
Stormy

******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

If Logan chooses to wear a dressage coat this weekend at the rally, vs.
going dressed as a "D" what should he wear around his neck if he doesn't
wear a turtleneck?  I've never paid attention to what men are wearing
around their necks at dressage shows - a stock tie?

Thanks,
Linda Talken, DC, English Hills Pony Club

Hi Linda,

Thanks for asking.  He can certainly wear a stock tie.  Alternatively, he
can wear a regular necktie instead, as long as his coat isn't solid black.

See you at the rally!
Stormy

******************************************************************

Hi There,

After migrating north from Mid Cal region, I have some questions about
the hay the kids bring for rallies.  Can the kids bring a bale & then weigh
out a portion for each feeding as long as they have the weight of how much
feed on a feed chart?  I go round & round with the kids on this issue.  What
do you all have to say about this method vs. bagging & tagging hay for each
feed time?

Barb Seidel, Napa Valley PC

Hi Barb,

The requirement for overnight rallies used to be that either the hay was
pre-weighed and packaged (not in plastic) or a scale was brought with
appropriate weights noted on the feed chart.  At one of the last CHMJ
meetings in Kentucky it was brought up that the scale is no longer a
requirement.  It was said that the weighing and measuring is taught in the
standards and should be taught within the club, that there isn't time to
teach it at rallies.

Because we're still using the 2002 HM Handbook, it is still on the required
equipment checklist for overnight rallies that the hay either be prepackaged
by weight or the team bring a scale, but since the change of rules, I
personally haven't given penalty points for a team not having a scale.  My
best advice if they want to bring hay by the bale and a scale with the
weights noted on the feed chart, they will certainly not be penalized.

Thanks for weighing in,
Stormy

******************************************************************

Stormy,

The required equipment list calls for a heavy duty feed tub.....I thought it
was acceptable to feed the horses on the ground.  Is the tub for hay?  Will
a muck bucket work (with the rope handles cut?)

Thanks,
Logan Talken, D3, English Hills Pony Club

Hi Logan,

You're right, it is acceptable to feed hay on the ground at a rally.  The
heavy duty feed tubs typically used are the black rubber tubs that have no
handles.  They can be used for any supplements, or for holding the salt
blocks.  However, if you don't feed supplements or feed them in a hanging
bucket and would prefer that your salt block doesn't get stepped on, then
you really don't have a use for a heavy duty feed tub.  Personally, I don't
give points for people who don't use feed tubs and don't bring them, but
since it is on the required equipment list then you could have a chief who
does.  You may get away with a muck bucket with the handles cut off in that
case, but I'd hate to see that knocking around in a horse's stall if it
isn't needed.

Keep it practical,
Stormy

******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

    Hope you and your four footed crew are well and into the rally season.  A
question turned up during a non-qualifying games rally.  At least three very
small D's on VERY small ponies had the Wintec treeless children's saddle.
We made a comment that treeless saddles were not allowed, but I could see
that they were really great for those particular kids.  Long story short, DC
calls and wanted to know the history of this rule and if it can be changed
and if it is a hold over from times past.  I didn't know, so I am emailing
you!

Marcy Neher, HMO Inland Empire region

Hi Marcy,

Treeless saddles are only disallowed in games because of their tendency to
slip when the kid is climbing on and off.  Hopefully these kids and ponies
can find alternative saddles for the games rallies.  Otherwise treeless
saddles are fine for all other activities.

No slipping!
Stormy

******************************************************************

Hi Stormy,

My daughter, Averie, was a member of the Shasta Pony Club until about
a month ago when we moved to Washington State.  My daughter has ridden with
a bitless bridle for two years and we love it.  Well, here they only use
mechanical hackamores.  So when either of us rides one of their horses we
have to use the mechanical hackamore.  I rode with it once and was quite
worried as I had seen your bit video and know there are some things to be
concerned about. If you could briefly tell me the points I should remember I
would greatly appreciate it.  My daughter and I don't know whether to neck
rein or direct rein or what other factors we should be concerned about.  My
search on the web revealed that the mechanical hackamore is one of the most
severe bridles available. The shanks are long as well.  The man in charge is
self taught and has his own ideas and ways of doing things.  I do not think
he has all the facts about the mechanical hackamore, nor do I think it would
make any difference.  I am not trying to get him to change the type of
bridle he uses--just want to know how to use it safely when I ride one of
his horses (our horse is only going to be in the bitless bridle!).

Many thanks for all the information you are making available to us.

Sincerely,

Mona Johnson
Goldendale, WA

Hi Mona,

It sounds like you watched my video very carefully and did pick up that
mechanical hackamores can be dangerous.  They are made to be used like a
curb bit and therefore the horse should be neck reined.  If you must use a
direct or leading rein to turn the horse, just expect some confusion and
head tossing as the shank on the leading side will dig into the jaw.  The
more gentle and patient you can be the better.  The biggest danger comes
when the noseband is positioned low and the hackamore has long shanks.  If a
rider uses the reins roughly they can break the nosebone and/or lower jaw
because of the leverage between the noseband and the curb chain or strap.
If you position the noseband half way between the protruding cheekbone and
the corners of the lips it should be high enough that the bones can
withstand a little more pressure without fracturing.  Before and after your
ride with a mechanical hackamore, carefully press on the nose and jaw and if
the horse seems very sensitive there, you may want to tactfully suggest that
the owner should keep an eye on that.  Maybe if you're lucky he'll see how
well the bitless bridle works on your horse and make up some new theories!

Happy neck reining!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Horses Never Lie: The heart of passive leadership by Mark Rashid

For those older Pony Clubbers and adults interested in my way of doing
things, and especially my particular leadership style, you'd do well to read
this book by Mark Rashid.  In the book, Mark tells about his theory of
"passive leadership" which he learned from working with different large
horse herds over many years.  The book is easy to read and understand, and
it tactfully points out that force isn't always the best way to gain and
maintain control of a situation.  I think it works with people too.

Reviews from the Amazon.com website:

Reviewer: Lisa from South Boston, MA United States

This is one of the best horse 'training' books I've ever read. I found that
Mark presented his theories in a unique format, where each story teaches you
something about horses. I was able to read through the book in a matter of
hours and was not only entertained, but felt like I could apply many if not
all of his practices to the horses I deal with everyday; it isn't your
typical how-to at all. I especially like the way Mark explains how horses
view us and how, many times, it is miscommunication between humans and
equines that becomes the culprit in many 'problem' horse cases. Bravo to
Mark Rashid for taking a new approach to writing about horse training and
keeping it humble, down to earth, and honest (just like our horses!)

Reviewer: Reader from Eagle, ID United States

Mark's books aren't "how to do it manuals." They let us see how the mind of
the horse works and they illustrate that it is not so much what we DO that
is significant, but how well we OBSERVE and understand the actions of the
horse and the feedback it is giving us. Mark, in his books and in his
clinics, acts as a translator and ombudsman for the horse. We come to
understand through his stories (parables, if you ask me) that it is the
horse who teaches us and not the other way around. Mark shares with us how
he has virtually lost his ego and learned humility through his interaction
with horses over the years...something that wouldn't hurt ANY of us. We (as
predators) always seem to want to DO something - when we would be much more
effective if we were to WAIT and WATCH and CONSIDER before we DO. There are
plenty of books that provide specific techniques for getting a horse to
perform all kinds of maneuvers. While he provides some of this type of
information, Mark's approach is refreshing in that he explains things from
the horse's perspective and even encourages us to think CREATIVELY (gasp!)
in "reading" what our horses are telling us and designing appropriate ways
that we and the horses can work together to achieve the desired result. I
think this approach is very necessary in this "point it & punch it" era.
Horses are a lot more like small children than the powerful machines they
APPEAR to be. Mark is a gentle, understanding guide to the psyche of the
horse and how we can (and should) communicate with it.

*******************************************************************
The Big Picture: Horse Management Judging at rallies
*******************************************************************

Hello Stormy,

The Horse Management at some rallies can be perceived as negative.  At a
recent rally, most of the tackroom inspectors seemed new and never
indoctrinated by you and the kids were not pleased, there was much grumbling
about the "Gestapo's".  It was very interesting to watch it play out.  The
whole tone of the HM judging was somewhat negative.

With that said, I have a question re the "kinder, gentler system"......It
seems like there should be some kind of distinction between two teams, if,
say team one has all their items labeled, they don't scramble to make boot
trees and they never leave their stall doors open; then you have team two
who the AHMJ finds items not labeled but gives them an opportunity to fix
it, and they do, they leave the door open, they are reminded, then they
don't do it again.  How does this all play out in the end, shouldn't team
one be rewarded somehow for not needing the extra time to fix things?  What
if in the end first place is in question and team two gets it when team one
really deserved it?  Just curious, I know that AHMJ's don't actually assign
the points, they are simply the note-takers; but in order to "buy into" an
idea, it's nice to know the big picture.  How do you make that work?

Thanks,
From a concerned AHMJ and Pony Club parent

Dear concerned AHMJ,

Thanks for the update on the perception of Horse Management judging.  Your
feedback, and others like it are invaluable to improving the system.

Your question is very insightful and I'd like to share my views on rallies.

Pony Club was developed to teach safe, effective horse care and riding to
youth.  Rallies as we know them were instituted because some kids learn
better through competitions.  Rallies never were and never should be a
requirement for all Pony Club members because some just don't learn well
during competition.

When teams come to a rally, they are all on completely different levels of
competency.  If they have not rallied much before, chances are that they are
not aware for example, of the need to close a stall door after the horse is
out, or to label the saddle and bridle racks.  Because of the high turn over
rate in club leaders, and the questionable attendance of some members (for
whatever reasons) the knowledge that should be passed on before a rally,
typically doesn't get passed on.  More importantly, "rally requirements"
often aren't practiced at the home barn or club meetings.  Think back, the
last time someone came to a mounted meeting with a sleeveless shirt, was the
person allowed to ride?  How about someone who comes to every mounted
meeting with an all-nylon halter?  What about jewelry?  What kind of things
are being accepted at meetings that aren't acceptable at rallies?  What
message does this send to future rally competitors?

As a Chief Horse Management Judge (CHMJ) then my option is either to assign
penalty points for every infraction, whether it's corrected or not, or to
give teams a chance to fix the problem before resorting to points.  I have
found that by giving the teams a chance to fix minor infractions first, they
actually make the corrections, and in making them, they learn without
feeling defensive or upset.  Typically the team is relieved to have a chance
to fix the problem.  My philosophy is to only give points if the infraction
is something uncorrectable at that time (for example dandruff in the tail of
a C2's horse), obviously unsafe (for example stirrup stitching coming out),
or if I feel that a point would make the competitor and team never make that
mistake again (for example, a water fight close to tied horses).

It's important to remember that people have different learning styles, at a
rally some competitors will learn through kindness and gentleness, and
others need more of an iron fist to get the message across.  In my opinion,
kindness and gentleness goes 99 times further than the iron fist, but I know
there is a place for both.

There has been discussion among the chiefs about changing to a positive
point system, whereby competitors would be rewarded for doing the right
things.  Not taking into account the whole new scoring system that would
need to be devised, the problem with the positive points is that it would
encourage the overachievers to run around getting these "extra credit"
points in order to balance out any negatives they may get.  It doesn't sound
like a big deal on the surface, but ultimately it would reward those
competitors who are achieving well above their standard, and competitors who
are just solidly at their standard would be discouraged.  If the horse
management aim is to ultimately teach safe, effective horse care, the
competitors shouldn't be expected to be more than what is specified for
their level.  We can't expect an 8 year old D2 to outperform a 15 year old
D2, but we can expect them both to be at the D2 standard and not below.

The two best rallies I have ever chiefed were in this region a few years ago
at Brookside.  One was Games, the other was Show Jumping, neither were
qualifying rallies.  What made these two rallies stand out was the way they
were set up.  Saturday morning the competitors arrived, but instead of
starting the rally then, Saturday was a clinic day.  The riders received
instruction in Games and Show Jumping, and when they weren't riding, they
attended several horse management stations ranging from proper helmet fit,
how to tie a stock tie, polishing boots, proper attire, and even how to do a
jog out among others.  The parents were allowed to help with the horse care
and attend the HM stations on Saturday because the kids were busy with other
things.  The other things we did on Saturday were the required equipment
checks.  The assistant horse management judges (AHMJs) did an "unofficial"
required equipment check and if anything was found missing, outdated, or not
labeled, the kids then had until the next day to get it fixed.  Because of
this extra time spent getting all the competitors on the same page as to
what we expected for the rally, the actual rally days were phenomenal,
rarely was there any problem.  It all came down to education.  Once we made
sure the competitors were properly educated, it was all smooth sailing.  As
an added bonus, since the parents had been able to help in the barns on
Saturday, they were less anxious about their children on Sunday and we had
no unauthorized assistance issues.  The horses were more settled in by then
as well.

So, back to the two teams, one who follows the HM handbook to the letter,
and the other that needs to be taught, reminded, and given time to correct
any mistakes.  I ask myself, was the aim of teaching safe, effective horse
care achieved in both cases?  Yes.

Should the first team be higher placed than the second?  Speaking from
experience, in general the first team will tend to get the higher placement.
Their preparedness often reflects in other areas such as written test
scores, and formal inspections that end up giving them the better horse
management score.  Some chiefs bring special awards to give to teams like
the first one, to assure that they get special recognition for their
efforts.  Occasionally the second team will end up on top, and when that
happens, the competitors on that team are thrilled to be considered such
good horse managers and will often continue with that thought in their heads
as they proceed to the next event even better prepared.  Either way, the aim
of the rally was fulfilled.  In my mind, the competition part of it is
secondary.

At championships, things are a little different.  There, we know that all
competitors have been to at least one rally before and are considered the
most qualified team in their region to compete at a rally.  At that point,
the team that needs teaching, reminding, and time to correct mistakes will
not score as highly as one who already knows and follows the rules.

The other point you make is regarding the assistant horse management judges.
I really think there needs to be an official training program for assistants
in this region.  The idea hasn't taken hold yet, mostly because all of this
is volunteer work and those things tend not to take precedence.  If we ever
could get the horse management judges and teachers paid the way the riding
discipline judges are paid, it would be a different story.  Now, I do not in
any way want to belittle the current horse management judges, they have done
a fantastic amount with a very minimum of training and compensation.  In the
same way that we can't expect the kids to know what they haven't been
taught, we can't expect the judges to judge in a constructive manner if they
haven't been guided and shown ways to do that.  It's definitely an area that
needs work.

Thank you so much for asking about this, and for helping out!!!  Look for
improvements here in the months to come.  If anybody has some novel ideas,
or time to spend towards improving Horse Management judging, please let me
know at: stormy@... .

Keep it positive,
Stormy

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook page 32 section 20:

Longeing of a mount during competition may be done with the consent of and
only in the area designated by the CHMJ.  Longeing may only be performed by
C-3 and above competitors, the owner of the mount [owner is defined as the
adult responsible for the care of the horse], or a person designated by the
owner of the mount, following USPC standards and safety guidelines.  A
person designated by the Chief Horse Management Judge will supervise
longeing.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************

Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Happy Anniversary
2) Feature: Lovely Little Lyra's Nutrition Quiz
3) Recommended products and services: Video editing
4) Rally and rating tips: D2 prep guide
5) Questions and answers: Marcy's dilemma, Ann's insight
6) Safety checklist
7) Fun and educational websites
8) Featured rule

******************************************************************
One Year Anniversary!
******************************************************************

This issue marks the one year anniversary of the Horse Management
Newsletter.  One of the things that Chief Horse Management Judges have been
asked to do is to teach more than they judge.  This newsletter has allowed
just that, it's a clearinghouse for information, discussion, tips, hints,
and talk about horse related topics.  I'd like to especially thank everybody
who has contributed over the past year with their questions, comments, and
encouragement!  The subscription rate has grown substantially and there are
now subscribers from all over the country.  Keep up the great work!!!

This month's feature, a nutrition quiz, is a real treat to add to the
line-up.  Stay tuned in May for the next edition, "Uncle Moose's Trailer
Safety Quiz.

*******************************************************************
Lovely Little Lyra's Nutrition Quiz
*******************************************************************
by Talitha Neher
         Including:
             Rough trade
             The truth about cellulose
             What¹s his sign?
             Boris makes a deal

Questions:

1.    You want to give your new pony a carrot but are worried about getting
your fingers bitten (your neighbor¹s Aunt Cindy¹s son knew some kid who lost
three fingers giving a treat to a pony).  Which is the best way to give a
treat safely?

     a.    Push it between the bars of his cage with a long pole.
     b.    Throw it at him, then quickly run the other way.
     c.    Offer it on the flat palm of your hand.
     d.    Arrange for the veterinarian to pull out his teeth so you don¹t
have to worry.

2.    Which of the following is not a good way to feed hay?

     a.    On the ground
     b.    In a hay rack or manger
     c.    In a hay net or bag tied high enough that the horse can¹t get his
foot in it even when it¹s empty.
     d.    In a hay net hanging at the level of the horse¹s knees so that he
does not have to strain to reach it.

3.    Uncle Yuri and his friend Jack Charmenian are watching you feed your
horse.   Jack Charmenian asks how much water the average horse drinks in a
day. You consider telling him to look it up, but since he¹s cleaning his
teeth with a switchblade, you decide to be agreeable and tell him it¹s about
8-12:

     a.    cups.
     b.    pints.
     c.    quarts.
     d.    gallons.

4.    Switchblades are:

     a.    Good for emergencies when you need to cut a lead rope loose in a
hurry.
     b.    Fun.
     c.    Illegal in most places.
     d.    Good for emergencies like being mugged.


5.    What kind of water does a horse like to drink?

     a.    Water with mud in it.
     b.    Fresh, clean water.
     c.    Water with mosquito larvae in it.
     d.    Water with scummy green algae in it.


6.    Because horses are grazing animals with small stomachs, it is best to
feed them:

     a.    Frequent small meals
     b.    One really big meal
     c.    Lawn clippings
     d.    Every other day


7.    Which of the following is not a good rule for feeding horses?

     a.    Feed little and often
     b.    Provide plenty of roughage
     c.    Make changes in the horse¹s diet gradually
     d.    Always provide fresh, clean water
     e.    Provide a source of salt
     f.    Feed at different times each day to keep the pony¹s life
interesting

8.     Horses need a lot of roughage to maintain a healthy digestive tract.
Do you know what roughage is?

     a.    High-fiber foods like sawdust, newspaper clippings and old leaves.
     b.    High-fiber foods like hay and beet pulp.
     c.    High-energy foods like oats and corn.
     d.    A young man with tattoos and a drug problem you picked up outside
a bar on the waterfront last Friday night.

9.    You are making a feeding chart to take to a competition.  If you
weren¹t a devil-may-care rebel and wanted to do everything by the book, you
would list your horse¹s grain in:

     a.    pounds per meal
     b.    coffee cans per meal
     c.    scoops per meal
     d.    quarts per meal

10.  A good way to package grain for individual meals during a competition
is:

     a.    In old whiskey bottles.
     b.    In plastic bags.
     c.    In paper bags with the horse¹s name, type of grain and amount
written on it.
     d.    In the pockets of the clothes you plan to wear each day.

11.  What¹s the best way to store grain at home and on the road?

     a.    In a waterproof container that horses can¹t open and mice can¹t
get into.
     b.    Under a tarp.
     c.    Just empty the bag in the stall or pasture so the horse can eat as
much as he wants when he wants.
     d.    In old whiskey bottles.

12.  Uncle Yuri knows where you can get a deal on some hay.  His friends
Boris and Sasha show you a lot of hay under tarps in a warehouse.  They say
they got several cuttings from different fields this year.  You look at some
sample bales and select the hay that is:

     a.    Yellow and stemmy because it will provide lots of roughage.
     b.    Crisp, green, leafy and sweet-smelling because it¹s high quality.
     c.    Still a little damp in the middle of the bales because you¹re
worried about your horse getting dehydrated this summer and want to maximize
his water intake.
     d.    Brown and a little dusty because it¹s cheap‹you can shake off the
mold before you feed it.

13.  Why should you bring a feeding schedule for your horse to competitions?

     a.    Because it¹s the rule at Pony Club events and you don¹t want to
lose stable management points.
     b.    In case you forget what to feed him under the strain of
competition.
     c.    So that someone else will know what to feed your horse if you meet
with an accident such as alien abduction or accidental evisceration.
     d.    To help you remember all the changes‹at home you just feed grass
hay, but this weekend at competition you¹re feeding alfalfa, oats,
electrolytes, a mineral supplement, a joint supplement and a bran mash every
night.

14.  Cellulose is a plant material.  There¹s a lot of it in grass and in
bark.  You and I can¹t digest cellulose.  Who can?

     a.    Jack Charmenian.
     b.    Termites.
     c.    Horses.
     d.    Microbes.

15.  Uncle Yuri and Jack Charmenian are sitting on the fence watching you
feed your horse.  Jack Charmenian points his vodka bottle at you and says
that since your horse obviously likes it so much, you should feed him a lot
more grain.  You explain that too much grain is bad for a horse.  Which of
the following is not a possible consequence of too much grain?

     a.    The horse could get laminitis, or founder.
     b.    The horse could colic.
     c.    The horse could get too fat.
     d.    The horse could get tuberculosis.

16.  You need to come up with a feeding plan for your pony.  What don¹t you
need to take into account when designing a diet?

     a.    The type of work he will be doing‹a weekly amble through the park?
Dressage?  Eventing? Racing across the frozen steppes of Mongolia?
     b.    The condition he¹s in right now‹fatty-fatty? Pleasantly plump?
Lean, mean and fighting fit?
     c.    His astrological sign‹Leo? Scorpio?  Libra?  Virgo?
     d.    His size, breed and metabolic rate‹itty-bitty?  Super-plus
econo-size? Easy keeper?  Can¹t keep weight on?

17.  What is a good source of protein for a horse?

     a.    fresh, raw meat
     b.    baked tofu
     c.    alfalfa hay
     d.    granola bars

18.  Concentrates are a good source of energy for horses.  What are
concentrates?

     a.    grains such as oats, corn and barley
     b.    just-add-water horse food in a can
     c.    hay such as alfalfa, timothy or meadow grass
     d.    high-energy foods such as fish meal and bone meal

Questions 19-25 are about the seven basic nutrients that make up a horse¹s
diet:  protein, carbohydrates, fats, fiber, vitamins, minerals and water.
Learn the seven nutrients. Learn them now.  If you do not learn them, you
will be an ignorant ignoramus and people will shun you.

19.  Water is very critical‹it¹s important in maintaining blood volume and
cell hydration and is needed everywhere in the body.  Horses can become
dehydrated even when water is available if they stop drinking for some
reason‹if they are sick, it¹s very cold, or they are nervous in new
surroundings.  Which is not a sign that a horse is dehydrated?

     a.    Gums are sticky and tacky.
     b.    Sunken eyes.
     c.    Tongue hanging out and panting.
     d.    If you pinch the skin on her neck, it stays tented for a few
seconds instead of snapping back right away.

20.  Fats provide energy, heat and warmth.  Of the following, what is the
best way to supplement fats in your horse¹s diet?

     a.    A cup of Crisco
     b.    Corn oil
     c.    Lard
     d.    A stick of butter

21.  Fiber is important for proper digestion.  It is supplied as roughage
(hay, beet pulp) and is broken down by microbes in the horse¹s digestive
tract.  I bet you don¹t know which part of the horse¹s digestive tract is a
big fermentation vat to break down fiber.  Is it:

     a.    The anus?
     b.    The cecum?
     c.    The esophagus?
     d.    The gall bladder?

22.  Protein is used by the body for growth and repair.  What are proteins
made of?

     a.    daisy chains
     b.    amino acid chains
     c.    gold chains
     d.    dandelion chains

23.  Carbohydrates provide heat and energy.  How should you give
carbohydrates to a pony?

     a.    Carbo-load her before an event with a big plate of pasta and a
whole-wheat roll.
     b.    Give grain according to condition and work done.
     c.    Supplement with Power Bars or a similar product containing a
balanced source of protein and carbohydrates.
     d.    Cat food is cheap and high in carbohydrates.

24.  These nutrients are supplemented in some salt blocks. Calcium and
phosphorous are an example‹they an important part of bones.

25.  These nutrients are named after letters of the alphabet.  D is made by
the body when the horse is exposed to the sun and is also found in sun-cured
hay.  It is important for healthy bones.  K is important for blood clotting.


BONUS QUESTION:  Back in the day, horses that worked grinding wheat in flour
mills were fed sweepings from the floor.  They tended to develop Miller¹s
Head Disease, or Big Head Disease, a condition in which their heads became
enlarged with deformed bones.  What caused this?

     a.    An improper calcium to phosphorous ratio‹these horses were getting
way too much phosphorous in their diets.
     b.    Being regularly beaten about the head by irate mill workers.
     c.    An allergy to wheat, resulting in swollen sinuses.
     d.    Ill-fitting halters.


SUPER BONUS QUESTION:  Uncle Yuri owes Boris and Sasha a lot of money. Sasha
wants to break Uncle Yuri¹s kneecaps, but Boris is very interested in
anatomy.  He says that if you can trace a morsel of food through a horse¹s
digestive system, he will give Uncle Yuri another week to come up with the
money.  Boris can remember the parts of the digestive system, but he can¹t
put them in order.  He does know that the small intestine goes like this:
duodenum, jejunum, jejunum, jejunum (the jejunum is very long), ileum.  Can
you help Uncle Yuri by putting the rest in order?

Colon, mouth, oral cavity, small intestine (duodenum, jejunum, jejunum,
jejunum, ileum), stomach, rectum, esophagus, anus, cecum.
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Be sure to look up the answers, they are just as good as the questions!  You
can find a printable version of this quiz, followed by the answers at the
following link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
Look for the Lovely Little Lyra's Nutrition Quiz link.

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Talitha Neher was a Pony Clubber in Idaho (did the pony club thing, liked
run/swim/jump/shoot, liked dressage/jump/jump), got older, taught at some
camps, helped local kids, earned a Creative Writing Masters degree in
England, and is currently waiting for the last six weeks of vet school to
drag by so she can get the internship thing done and finally have a horse
again.  Talitha likes bat-eared, muscular dogs with undershot jaws and screw
tails and kayaks big enough for bat-eared dogs to ride along.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

Do you have a horse or pony for sale?
A well-edited sales video can attract many buyers, while a badly edited one
will send them looking elsewhere.  In today's video age, people are used to
seeing well presented products.  It shouldn't take a potential buyer hours
of looking at a tape, hoping to see one or two good moments where the camera
wasn't jumping around and the horse actually got over a fence.  If you need
equine video editing services for sales horses or stallion promotional
videos, look no further than Stormy May Productions!

After working on the "Understanding Bits" video, we have the experience and
equipment to make your raw video footage shine!  Or, if you're not too handy
with the camera, schedule a video shoot with us.  We can add music,
narration, titles, transitions, special effects, and more to make your video
stand out to the buyer or breeder.

We can work with VHS or DVD formats.  If you'd like to see samples just ask!

For more information visit http://www.stormymay.com and click on the Equine
Video Production Services link.  Prices start at only $30.00 .

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: D2 prep guide
*******************************************************************

For the next 2 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the
depth of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections may be
covered. The guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this knowledge
from books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of practical
experiences and applications of this knowledge.  These guides should be
used along with the standards.

Please join in!  I started 6 months ago with the H-A level, which is the
highest level that tests horse management skills, and I'm working my way
down to D1.  If you remember any questions that were asked at ratings you
took, let me know what they were, especially if you realized you should have
studied that section more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating
level, and the rating level each question was from.

**Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for
these questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are
the most important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do
to find the answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
~Stormy

What are 3 balancing and suppling exercises the rider can do?
How can you tell when you're on the correct diagonal?
How can you tell when your horse is on the correct lead?
Have you practiced putting protective boots on your horse?
What condition is your horse in?
What are three things to check to see if your pony is cooled out?
What's the feeding rule about how much to feed?
What's the feeding rule about when to feed?
When and what does your pony get fed?
What is the safest way to use a hoofpick?
When would you use a curry comb?
What body parts should you not use a curry comb on?
How do you clean a body brush?
What's the difference between a dandy and a body brush?
What are two things that could be unsafe on a saddle?
What are two things that could be unsafe on a bridle?
What stable vice is talked about in this newsletter issue?
Where is the pastern?
Where is the fetlock?
Where is the dock?
What's the difference between a chestnut and a bay?
What's the difference between a palomino and a cremello?
How can you tell if a horse is truly black?
What is a seal bay?
What's the difference between a tobiano and an overo?
What is it called when a horse has white up to his pastern?
What's it called when a horse has white extending over his hock?
What is a little white patch on the nose called?
Which breeds are used for racing?
Which breeds are used for pulling plows?
Which breeds do little kids ride?
Which breeds are used in the Olympics?
Which side of the road are you supposed to ride on?
What should your horse be wearing on his head in a trailer?
What should your horse be wearing on his legs in a trailer?
What does the vet do when he or she comes out and it's not an emergency?
Have you practiced your quick release knot?
How many hands should you keep on the reins or leadrope when leading?
Where should your pony be facing when you let him go in a stall?
Why is it important to take care of your horse's feet every day?
Why do you need a farrier to check your pony regularly?
Why is it important to learn how to bandage your horse's legs correctly?

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Stormy,

  I have a question for you, oh font of knowledge--what can be done to
discourage wind sucking?  Holly Golightly, our 16 mo. ISH/Tb filly, lost her
mom to colic when she was 4 mo. Obviously, it was hard for her, but she
bonded to an older gelding, but went a bit whacky when he was having
surgery, and got hurt herself--long story short, a bit of trauma early on.
We noticed the wind sucking, usually during eating activities and anything a
bit stressful, like "displacement" activities normal horses would do, like
snatching grass  when they are worried.  I have put commercial remedies in
her favorite places, but to no avail.  I put hot sauce on, which worked for
a week until her stable mate, an aged and fond Arab mare licked it all off
and begged for more(????sheesh!)  The only thing that really helped was a
cat we called Audrey for obvious cinematic reasons, who let Holly lick her
into a sodden, but happy mass.  Unfortunately, Audrey must have gone to that
great cat house in the sky, as many farm cats do (she was young and dense, I
guess otherwise why would she let Holly lick her to smithereens) and Holly
is again cribbing.  I have looked up info on wind sucking and colic
relationships, and damage to teeth, etc. and know it isn't going to be
beneficial to her.  Anyway, any ideas?  Any books, articles, advice to spew?
Thanks.

Marcy Neher, Inland Empire Region and owner of the fabulous Exploding Pop
Tart

Hi Marcy,

What a great question although quite a frustrating problem for you I'm sure.
Windsucking and cribbing are different names for the same habit of hooking
the top incisors on something stationary (usually wood) and then bracing
back and seeming to gulp air.  My best advice would be to let her be out in
a large pasture with a herd and plenty of grass or hay to nibble on during
the day.  Since it seems so early in her windsucking career you may have a
chance to curb her of this habit by eliminating its probable cause, nervous
tension.

If that solution isn't possible, and the various wood sprays haven't worked,
there is one other product to try.  Farnam makes a dietary supplement called
"Quitt" that is supposed to stop cribbing by replacing missing minerals and
nutrients.  In clinical studies, 9 out of 10 horses stopped chewing wood in
7 days.  And there's a manufacturer's guarantee.  I haven't had a need to
try it myself thankfully, but I'd love to hear if anyone has had experience
with it.

I personally would avoid the different "choke" collars or muzzles designed
to stop cribbing and windsucking.  I've never seen them work completely and
they just seem like a terrible solution to a man-made problem.  One other
option is to put electric tape wherever she may try to crib but I'd use that
as a last resort, the hotwire tends to make horses more jumpy and nervous
than absolutely necessary but it's better than cribbing in my opinion.

No more sucking wind Holly!
Stormy

***********************************************************

Dear Stormy,
     On your recommendation, I bought two bitless bridles to try & love them
both.  I'll be getting more.  But I want to know if there has been a ruling
from Nationals about their use.  In Games specifically, we are allowed to
use a jumping hackamore but these are a different principle entirely.  Are
they allowed at Nationals?  Can you find out before I invest more?
Ann Dutson, Valley of the Moon

Hi Ann,
   I'm glad you like the bitless bridles!  Here's the official word on the
bridles:

   As far as Pony Club is concerned, hackamores and bitless bridles are legal
in every discipline except the two Dressage phases of competition [Dressage
rallies and the Dressage phase of Eventing rallies] and on the flat for
testing.  They are allowed in non-competition activities, i.e. lessons.

Wayne Quarles
USPC Activities Services Director

     I got further word from the national office that Bitless Bridles are
allowed in the flat portion of testings in "extraordinary circumstances".

Time to invest!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Safety Checklist
*******************************************************************

Does your club need an easy checklist to use when teaching parents or older
Pony Clubbers to do safety checks for mounted meetings?  I made up a safety
checklist which also includes a turn back checklist that you can download
from the files section of this newsletter at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
Click on "Safety Check Checklist"

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

www.equisearch.com

This is a great search page for horse owners and enthusiasts.  It is a site
developed by the publisher of the popular magazines; Dressage Today, Equus,
Practical Horseman, and Horse & Rider.

Equisearch includes chats, forums, classifieds, news, show results, and of
course shopping.  There's also a nice "ask a vet" section, this month's
topic is basic equine dentistry.

*******************************************************************
Featured rule
*******************************************************************

2002 Horse Management Handbook Pages 67-72
Did you know that lateness for your formal inspection is calculated at 5
points for being late and then 1 point for each minute late?  If you're 2
minutes late, that adds up to 7 points!  It's more important to be on time
for a formal inspection than to have a clean saddle!!!

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers: Labeling
2) Feature: Shipping horses by Clair Spackman
3) Recommended products and services: Derby Originals Jodhpur boots
4) Rally and rating tips: D3 prep guide
5) Questions and answers: Bitless bridles, stirrup irons, and reins
6) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: That Winning Feeling
7) Fun and educational websites: Dressage and Hunter Pony
8) Featured rule: Girth requirements

******************************************************************
Comments from readers
******************************************************************
Hi Stormy,

We just wanted to thank you for putting together the Horse Management clinic
....  We had such a great time and learned soooo much!!!

Lori Moreno (mom) & Allyson Roth (D3, Deer Creek)

PS..
We also picked up your bitting DVD...it couldn't have been better
timing...it's wonderful!

*******************************************************************
Hi Stormy......

I have a couple of comments on two of the questions that came up in your
newsletter last month.

Q1:  Are individual bridles and saddles required to be labeled or can just
the saddle rack and bridle be labeled?

Great answer you gave for this one..... this has always bugged me, that
every other silly item the kids are carrying around must be identified, but
the saddle and bridle, just because they're using them and they're on a rack
with identification on it, don't have to be.  But you're right, since it
isn't required, we can't expect them to put any kind of identification on
them....... however, marking them is a sensible thing to do just because
what the heck, a lot of saddles and bridles do look alike don't they, and
there are a LOT of them at any given rally.... and they aren't going to
spend every single moment on your horse or on the marked rack.

Thank you for giving a good, common sense response to that question. Yay,
for CSAL [Common Sense and Logic].

My second response is to the question regarding the labeling of halters.
This one goes back to the Combined Training Rally/Horse Trials that Mid-Cal
and Sierra Pacific shared up at Rancho Murieta a couple of years ago.  At
that time I had just come back from Championships in Kentucky, where they
put tape identification on the halter that the horse wears in the stall and
it made sense to me.  In a large facility like that with hundreds of horses
from many different groups, barns, areas, it just seemed to make sense that
if a horse got loose when the owner wasn't around and was running happily
all over the place, that he would need some form of ID on him so that he
could be returned to his proper quarters.

We were at Murieta with a whole lot of horse trial people on site in
addition to pony clubbers, and who can tell when you grab a loose horse if
it's from a pony club barn or some other, if it has no identification.  So I
suggested to our chief, Nancy Harter, that we ask them to put tape on with
some form of identification.  She agreed to the idea, we did it, and
henceforth, most of the chiefs at rallies I've been working at, have done
the same when we're at a large facility like Murieta or CTETA or Ram Tap.
It isn't as necessary when you're at a small place like where the Tetrathlon
was held, of course, since there all the horses either live at the barn or
are with pony club, but even then, it's helpful to have his stall number if
there is such a thing, just so it's easier to find where he goes if he/she
does get loose.

Again, it's not required, but it does make sense to do, especially when
you're at a huge facility with horses from different groups all there at the
same time.

Somehow, one of the kids from that rally went home complaining that they got
marked down for not having identification on their halters when it wasn't
required in the HM handbook.  I think someone wrote to the DC digest about
it back then, and I responded at the time explaining that it wasn't
required, only suggested that it be done as a precautionary measure because
we were at such a large facility, and that no one was likely to have
gotten points off for not doing it.  Kids often only remember someone asking
them to do it......and they think if it hadn't been done already that they
would get points off for it.  (We always get the rap for being bad guys,
even when we're not......... you know that.)

So thanks again, for coming through with a good common sense explanation, so
that they realize, we aren't just thinking of dopey things for them to have
to do for no reason.

Marilyn Terstegge, Mid Cal region

*******************************************************************
Shipping horses
*******************************************************************
by Clair Spackman

I went to the seminar given by Dr Carolyn Stull at UCD on March 1st about
shipping horses long distances. It was very interesting.  The first half was
about shipping horses for slaughter because that is where the money came
from for the research.  While I have nothing against slaughtering horses for
meat I have to say the shipping was somewhat disturbing.  The good thing is
that her research and resulting recommendations have been put through
government and so horses are already seeing the welfare benefits that she
and her team proposed.  This is a very fast response to research that was
only funded in the late 90¹s.  They found that cortisol levels (a hormone
that when elevated suggests that the animal is stressed) were increased when
the horses came off the transporter, neutrophil:lymphocyte ratio was
increased these are different kinds of white blood cells which again
indicate stress when elevated, dehydration increased with length of journey
and that injuries increased with increased floor space.  However, it must be
remembered that these horses where being shipped in group compartments so
the more space they had the more they were able to move around and fight
each other.  These slaughter horses don¹t know each other and mares and
stallions are often shipped together so the largest injuries are from
biting.  On average these horses lost 4% of their body weight during
shipping and 2% regained this weight after 24 hours.  Another study carried
out by Friend 2001 and one by Collins et al 1999 tested the effect of severe
driving conditions on similar groups of horses.  They drove a truck on a
figure of 8 track with an open-top trailer and cameras set up so they could
watch the horses during the drive. They found that hard braking caused the
most distress, that high density of horses increased injury and
interestingly enough the horses had no orientation preference.  They were
not tied and so could stand how ever they wanted and no preference was
noted.  This is contrary to what others have noted in the past where
standing facing backwards etc. have been said to be the natural preference
of the horse.  [Stormy's note: I always figured they liked to face backwards
because they knew that's where the door was!] Clinical dehydration levels
were seen after 24 hours.  (No water was available to any of these horses
during transportation).


After the first study, money was remaining so they decided to test the
effects of shipping in the most ideal of situations and to look at the
effect of head restriction during 24 hours of road transportation.  For
slaughter, horses are packed onto either straight body or "potbelly" bodied
transporters with about 20+ horses per shipment.  So this time they decided
to use horses that knew how to ship, that knew each other therefore lowering
stress associated with these factors and they used a commercial hauler out
of Kentucky who I believe we may have used last time to get to Kentucky.
They looked at loose versus cross-tied transport over 24 hour travel under
California summer conditions and used the Fresno State equestrian team
horses.  These horses haul regularly and know each other.  The trailer was a
straight load, they had 10 horses.  6 were cross tied and 4 in loose boxes
(these loose boxes were big enough for the horses to turn around but not to
walk back and forth).  The loose horses had barely any more space than those
that were cross-tied. The horses had access to hay and water.  Again they
looked at the same stress indicators.  Cortisol levels were significantly
higher in the cross-tied horses as compared to the loose horses.  The white
blood cell numbers were higher for the tied horses and were actually at
clinical levels.  The neutophil:lymphocyte ratio was slightly raised in the
loose horses but hugely increased in the tied horses.  48 hours of recovery
was enough to return these levels back to baseline in the tied horses.


They then got some money from a supplement manufacturer that makes the
adaptogen APF and they tested to see if this adaptogen made any difference
to the stress responses of these horses.  They used 19 horses.  6 horses got
a placebo, 6 got APF and those remaining stayed at the barn as controls.
APF was administered for 28 days pre-trial. Again Lymphocytes decreased,
T-cells decreased (T cells are important for immune response lowered T cells
mean that your immune system is not functioning fully) and APF had no
effect, which I am sure didn¹t please the manufacturer much!


I went and spoke to Dr. Stull after the talk and her recommendation to us
for long distance shipping is: ship horses in loose boxes untied (it appears
that tying keeps the head elevated at an un-natural level that has negative
effects on the respiratory system), use haulers that have air-ride, that
horses need 48 hours post transportation to recover, that due to their
immune system being compromised during that 48 hours the environment they
are in during that time needs to be as clean and dust/bacteria free as
possible and they should only be socializing with the horses they were
shipped with so that they are not exposed to any strange horses during that
time.  This is the recommendation that was made to the US Equestrian teams
for the Sydney Olympics.  She does not know if 24 hours is the cut off for
these effects it may in fact be the case that similar stress responses occur
in horses shipped for as a little as 12 hours.

Anyway I hope this information is helpful.  I am sure that if you had
further questions Dr. Stull would be happy to discuss them with you.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************

I'm hard on my paddock boots.  Ariats never last more than a year, and even
Blundstones didn't make it past a year and a half.  I've found something
better!  There is a seller on Ebay that sells "Derby Originals" leather
jodhpur boots for only $47.50 in a range of sizes.  I prefer the steel toe
brown version which has protected my toes and held up for probably about 3
years now.  They look and fit like Blundstones, but the price and durability
beats them by a mile.  There are also black or brown synthetic zip front
jodhpur boots for $27.50 but I haven't tried their quality.

Visit their ebay store boot section at:
http://stores.ebay.com/tack-wholesale-com_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQdptZ3QQsclZal
lQQsotimedisplayZ2QQtZkm (copy and paste into your browser)
or the website at www.tack-wholesale.com (prices are slightly higher than on
ebay)
or just do an ebay search for: steel toe jodhpur boots.  If anybody gets the
synthetic or non steel toe versions, let me know how the quality is!

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: D3 prep guide
*******************************************************************

For the next 3 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the
depth of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections may be
covered. The guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this knowledge
from books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of practical
experiences and applications of this knowledge.  These guides should be
used along with the standards.

Please join in!  I started 5 months ago with the H-A level, which is the
highest level that tests horse management skills, and I'm working my way
down to D1.  If you remember any questions that were asked at ratings you
took, let me know what they were, especially if you realized you should have
studied that section more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating
level, and the rating level each question was from.

**Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for
these questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are
the most important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do
to find the answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
~Stormy

Is it the coat color, stock tie, or breech color that determines if you're
correctly formal or informal?
Which 3 colors of coats are acceptable for formal attire?
Which 4 colors of breeches/jodhpurs are acceptable for formal attire?
What are the differences between formal, informal, and casual attire?
What is the feeding rule about deciding how much you should feed your horse?
How long after strenuous work should you wait to feed your horse?
How long after strenuous work should you wait to water your horse?
How do you know when your pony is cooled out?
How many pounds of roughage does your horse get?
What supplements does your horse get?  How much of each?
What can you put on a dirt stall floor after you scrape away the bedding to
absorb urine smells?
What are the correct names of the tools you use to clean a stall?
Why might you bank the sides of a stall?
How do you properly hang a net-style hay net?
How do you know if your hay net is too low?
How many inches are in a hand?
If a horse is 64 inches, how many hands is he?
Can you point to exactly where the gaskin is?
Name the points on a horse's topline starting with the poll and ending with
the dock.
What is a ewe neck?
What is a bull neck?
What is a goose rump?
What is a roach back?
Is it worse for a horse to have short, upright pasterns, or long, sloping
pasterns?  Why?
What is the proper way to cross a road when riding in a group?
Which side of the road are you supposed to ride on in this state?
When unloading a horse from a slant load trailer, should you untie the head
first or open the divider?
Does your record book include what's in a 4-way vaccination? 5-way? [Note:
see the June 2003 HM newsletter at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/3
for more record book tips.]
Name 5 things that would cause you to seek help from a vet.
Which side is the traditional one to lead from?
What are 4 obvious signs that a hoof needs new shoes?
Have you practiced your stable wrap? [Note: see the May 2003 HM newsletter
at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/2
for tips on appropriate materials.]
Have you practiced putting protective boots (bell boots and galloping boots)
on your pony?

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Stormy -

Thank you so much for your hint about the Bitless Bridle, we tried it
yesterday and quote "Mom, I have brakes!!!".  We took him to a schooling
show Sunday, and she was able to have much more control.  We still had
refusal issues, but the best part was he wasn't able to yank her out of the
saddle just before pulling a dirty stop.  We're not sure exactly why that
is, she thinks it's almost like the bridle doesn't allow him to throw his
head out as far.  She was riding with knots in her reins and a martingale
with a twisted snaffle before this, and he could still yank her out of the
saddle.  Now she's not using a martingale either.  Now we're wondering if
Kirsten can use it at the Tetrathlon.  My reading of the rulebook defers to
Show Jumping which just says "humane to the horse".  Is that your
interpretation also?  Do you know how Pony Club feels about the bridle in
general?  For C-3 tests, etc.?

Debra Ostlund, non-horsey DC, Mid Cal region

Hi Debra,

Congrats on the Bitless Bridle! They are fine to use for everything in PC
EXCEPT: Dressage rallies, the Dressage phase of Eventing, and the flat
portion of ratings.  Currently, I have sent a petition that is being
reviewed at the national office by the Eventing, Dressage, and Testing
committees that would permit its use in these phases as well.

Keep your fingers crossed,
Stormy

***********************************************************

Hi Stormy,

At a quiz prep there was a question which we discussed and are not sure
of the answer.  Our DC, Carol von Brandt, suggested I write to you.  I use
peacock stirrups which are also fillis.   My paddock boots have rubber
soles, so I'm not sure if I should be using the rubber pads in the stirrups.
The metal in the stirrups under the pads is completely smooth and there is a
big hole for the pad to go into.  I think I would be feel insecure if I
didn't have that pad.  Am I supposed to be using the pad in my peacock
fillis stirrups if I have rubber soles on my paddock boots?

Averie Johnson, D2, Shasta Pony Club

Hi Averie,

On page 35 of the 2002 Horse Management Handbook it reads: Rubber stirrup
pads are discouraged but not penalized when the rider is wearing boots with
rubber soles.  Exception: Fillis irons must always have pads.

The term "Fillis" refers to stirrup irons which have a single hole in the
bottom and the metal angles down to that hole so that if you were riding
without pads, your boot would be resting on 2 very small, nearly knife edges
of metal.  These are designed to always be used with pads.

Another variety of stirrups are typically called "hunt stirrups" which also
have a big hole in the middle but the metal that your boot rests on is flat,
and there are little metal nubs for traction.  Typically, you see this style
in conjunction with "Prussian sides" which are sides that flare out slightly
at the bottom.  These should be used with pads if you have leather sole
boots, and without pads if you have rubber sole boots, although if you have
a preference for a certain pad with these stirrups, you wouldn't be
penalized at a rally.

Typically, peacock irons have the flat "hunt" bottom but if you have Fillis
peacocks, then you'll definitely need a pad.

Stay secure!
Stormy

******************************************************************

Stormy...Question for your newsletter.  Can D's ride with double reins or
do they have to use the bit converter?

Thanks, Barbara Brewer, English Hills PC rating coordinator

Hi Barb,
That's an easy one!  If Ds are using a Pelham or Pessoa type bit they can
definitely use two reins, in fact, it would be preferred.  That's how those
bits are designed to be used.  If they can't handle two reins, then at the D
level the rider may use converters, but they must use two reins as a C.

No spaghetti reins!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

That Winning Feeling, by Jane Savoie

This book has been around for years but someone recently said that it really
helped her Pony Club daughter to overcome fears and anxieties related to
competition and ratings.  Here is a review from the amazon.com website:

It's all about doing your personal best whatever that may be.
     Reviewer: A reader from Illinois USA
"That Winning Feeling is not about getting blue ribbons or pushing your
horse despite how the horse may feel.  It is about doing your personal best
in your own personal situation.  In her introduction Jane Savoie states it
clearly: 'To win--let us understand--is not necessarily limited to bringing
home the blue ribbon.  It is developing your potential and using it for a
purpose that makes you happy.  It is leaving your all-too-familiar comfort
zone and striving for more than you thought you could achieve.  It is
putting forth the kind of effort that makes you proud to sign your name to
your work.'  And, in the last 30 pages of the book when she does speak
specifically about competitions, the author says: 'After the performance,
you can always feel victorious about your personal milestones.  Perhaps this
was the first show where your horse didn't buck at the canter depart. ...
It maybe this is the first competition where you didn't feel nauseated
before your ride. ... Don't let anyone--least of all yourself--dictate any
limits.  The joys of competition with your partner are to be fully
experienced and savored.'  Thus, this book is about helping you do your best
with your partner, your horse. It is not about winning blue ribbons or
achieving Olympic status. It is a realistic, down-to-earth, practical and
effective psychocybernetic approach for helping achieve you and your horse's
best no matter what your goals are."

Sounds like a great self-esteem builder for riders!

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************

Thanks to Liz and Gabby Tapia for finding this fine site:
www.ridinghabit.com is a site designed by Karen Pautz.  It includes some
outside links, but what makes it really special is the "halt @ X" section.
The halt @ X has very cool features such as animated video clips of dressage
movements such as the leg yield, half pass, canter pirouette, etc...  and a
section on dressage arena geometry (how to set up your own arena, and tips
on riding the figures.)  The last section is devoted to lateral work and
includes specific definitions for all the lateral movements (quick, what's
the difference between renvers and travers?) and a basic recipe for
suppleness (remember that term from the C and B standards?)

********************************************************************

http://www.huntersponyfarm.com/horses/index.html

This site includes tons of information on dressage, hunter, and western
riding as well as care training and breeds sections.  A very fun site.

********************************************************************
Featured rule
********************************************************************
2002 Horse Management Handbook page 35 section 23A

Girths on English saddles must have at least two buckles at each end and
must be fitted so there are at least two spare holes at the top and one at
the bottom of the billets after they are tightened.  Buckle (billet) guards
are required and must be in proper place.  Stirrup bars are to be down
(open) for riding.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products, books,
or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions
and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a log
of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************

*******************************************************************
HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) 2004 Horse Management Seminar; call for C-2s and up
3) Feature: Best friends or business associates?
4) Recommended products and services: Bucking strap
5) Rally and rating tips: C-1 prep guide
6) Questions and answers: Rubs, bits, and rallying
7) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Make your own horse
clothing

******************************************************************
Comments from readers
******************************************************************

Dear Stormy,

I got so many great tips and things to share with our kids from that
newsletter.  We discussed your rally hints at our HM clinic this month.

Thanks, hope your year is going well.
Marcy Neher, HMO Inland Empire region

******************************************************************
2004 Sierra Pacific Horse Management Seminar update
******************************************************************

The 2004 Sierra Pacific Horse Management Seminar will be held at the
beautiful new Starr-Vaughn Equestrian Center, home of Tommy Mac!  This
fantastic facility is right down the road from Rancho Murieta.  It is owned
by a Pony Club family and features paved parking, beautiful barns, and a
huge covered arena.  We're very lucky to have access to this place for our
Horse Management Seminar on March 7th, 2004.

This year, we're going to use a station format where people will be able to
pick which topics they would like to learn more about and then listen to a
10 minute lesson on the subject.  We're looking for any C-2 or higher rated
Pony Clubbers to teach these stations, as well as any adults that would like
to teach a certain subject.  For the Pony Clubbers who teach, it will be a
unique experience to be able to teach the same lesson to small groups up to
12 times in a row so you can really practice your teaching skills!  All
teachers will need to submit a lesson plan to me by February 21st for
review.  Please don't be shy about this, we need all the help we can get,
and will give all the help we have to give in order to make your lesson
spectacular.

Suggested topics to choose from:

Rally expectations
How to use the HM Handbook
How to use the discipline rulebooks
How to study for written tests at rallies
Proper formal/informal/casual attire
How to clean and bed a stall
Poisonous plants
Rules for feeding
Barn safety
Grooming
Horse breeds
Horse colors
Bits, types and fitting
Saddle fit
Halter fit
How to blanket a horse
Shipping wraps
Standing wraps
Tail wraps
Specialty wraps
Equine first aid kit
Boot polishing
Tack cleaning
What is the basic balanced position?
Stretching for riders
Pony parts
Conformation and lameness
Bridle and saddle parts
How to put a bridle together
Equine diseases
Worms and deworming
How to read a thermometer
How to take a pulse
Recordbooks
Conditioning
Polocrosse
How to clean and bed a stall
Horse trivia games
Rally kits: what to label
How to tie a stock tie

Or any other horse management related topic you might be interested in.
Please email me your topic choice before someone else takes it!  Any Pony
Clubbers from neighboring regions are welcome to attend either as a teacher
or participant.

Stay tuned to this newsletter and the Sierra Pacific Digest for more
information, or email me directly at: stormy@... .

*******************************************************************
Feature: Best Friends or Business Associates?
*******************************************************************
By Stormy May

Do you prefer your horse to be your best friend, or a business associate?

The question seemed odd to me.  Who would want a horse as a business
associate?  Well, maybe race horse owners could be that uncaring, but real
horsepeople?  After pondering the question for a few days, I began to see
the situation from both perspectives, and how either relationship could be
useful depending on the person's goals and personality.  Taking some time to
figure out which relationship you'd rather have might help make some horse
ownership decisions more clear.

The horse as a business associate:

This type of relationship is for the person whose goals are more important
to them than which particular horse they achieve them with.  People who
prefer a business associate relationship will buy and sell, lease, or borrow
horses until they come upon the right match to take them to their goals,
whether it be a safe trail horse, the Pony Club "A" rating, an "A" circuit
hunter, or even the Olympics.  This category also includes most trainers who
are looking to increase their business through successful show records,
sales, and students.  Just because a person prefers a business associate
relationship, doesn't necessarily mean he or she doesn't care about their
horses.  They just make sure that the horse they care for is one that can
fulfill their goals.  Trainers like George Morris, Jimmy Wofford, Will
Simpson, and Christiana Noelting will often suggest buying a more
appropriate horse rather than trying to make your existing one into
something he is not.

The horse that works well as a business associate is one that has a strong
work ethic.  When showtime comes around and money and reputations are
on the line, he will pull through because he knows his job.

Examples of this type of relationship are most Olympic mounts and their
riders.

The horse as a best friend:

This type of relationship is for the person who is more attached to a
particular horse than to any external goals.  There are many excellent
riders out there who have let their competition days slip away because they
became more attached to a particular horse than the goals.  The horse may
be unable to fulfill those goals for any number of reasons including injuries,
age, size, breed, or temperament.  A hidden gift in this type of relationship is
that the owner may find new ways to enjoy the horse that don't involve
competitions, or even riding.  Just because they don't fulfill the original
goals,
doesn't necessarily mean that they have failed.  If the owner does feel like he
or she has failed, it might be time to rethink the type of relationship they
want.
Trainers like John Lyons, Pat Parelli, Linda Tellington-Jones, Linda Kohanov,
and Ray Hunt typically don't advocate selling your current horse, they offer
ways for people to improve their relationships with their existing horses.  I
recently met a person who is a prime example of this type of relationship.  Her
current riding horse is the granddaughter of the horse she rode as a child.

An example of this type of relationship is Alec Ramsey and the Black
Stallion.

There are rare exceptions where a best friend relationship can also fulfill
all of a rider's wildest dreams.  Can you think of any real-life examples?

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Bucking strap
*******************************************************************

Ok, maybe it's time for me to stop calling it a bucking strap.  What I'm
recommending here is a leather or cotton web strap that attaches between the
dee rings of an English saddle and gives the rider an extra handle to hold
to to regain her balance, deepen his seat, or grab onto if the horse starts
acting like she might buck or bolt.

I've been using bucking straps on my saddles for at least 14 years and I'm
sure I've stayed on those unpredictable young horses more often than not
because of it.  It is also fantastic to use during longe lessons when you
can't quite get your seat to stop bouncing at the sitting trot.  For riders
who don't yet have independent hands, it's handy to hook a pinky finger
under it to keep your hands in the right vicinity.

If you find that you're using it a lot, you may want to get what are called
"breastplate dees", or "stirrup bar dees" to attach the strap to so you
don't pull out your saddle's dee rings.  Breastplate dees are dee rings that
slip over the stirrup bar instead of being held by a tack in the leather of
the saddle.

The original bucking strap I had (and still use!) is just a leather curb
strap.  Now you can buy them specifically as a hand-hold strap in different
lengths.  Buckeye Saddle Shop in Vacaville, CA (1-707-678-3512) carries a
nice line of cotton web straps with scissor snap attachments.  Dover
Saddlery (www.doversaddlery.com 1-800-989-1500) carries one in leather for
$17.90 and calls it a "Rolled Grab Strap".  State Line Tack
(www.statelinetack.com 1-800-228-9208) has one for $19.99 and calls it a
"Leather Hand-Hold Strap".

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: C-1 prep guide
*******************************************************************

For the next 4 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the
depth of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections may be
covered. The guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this knowledge
from books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of practical
experiences and applications of this knowledge.  These guides should be
used along with the standards.

Please join in!  I started 4 months ago with the H-A level, which is
the highest level that tests horse management skills, and I'm working my way
down to D1.  If you remember any questions that were asked at ratings you
took, let me know what they were, especially if you realized you should have
studied that section more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating
level, and the rating level each question was from.

**Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for
these questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are
the most important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do
to find the answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
~Stormy

How would you condition differently for show jumping, dressage, or eventing?
What exercises are good for conditioning the horse?
How long should you do each exercise?
What is the difference between measuring grain in pounds or quarts?
How do you know how much hay your horse is getting?
What different types of hay does your horse get?  Why?
If you feed grain, which grains do you feed and why?
Does your horse get any nutraceuticals?  Why or why not?
When would you increase or decrease your horse's feed?
How do you know if your grain is bad?
If you go to a feed store to buy hay, how do you know that it's good
quality?
How would you know if your horse is getting enough nutrition from a pasture?
What are some things that make a pasture bad?
How often should you clean your horse's water trough?
What types of bedding are used in your area?
Which bedding types are the most absorbent?
Which bedding types are easiest to clean?
Which bedding types are the cheapest?
Which bedding types are suitable for foaling stalls?
Which bedding types are not suitable?  Why?
What should you do if your blanket has leg straps?
Should the leg straps be fastened before or after the chest strap?
What is the main cause of all stable vices?
What are some ways to cure various stable vices?
Who would use a full clip on a horse rather than a blanket clip?
Why might someone prefer a blanket clip over a trace clip?
What are several ways to remove bot eggs?
What time of year are you likely to find bot eggs?
Which dewormers work on bot larvae?
What are some ways to control parasites in a pasture?
Name at least 5 ways to control flies in a barn.
What are 7 conformation faults of the front legs that can be seen from the
front of the horse?
What are 4 conformation faults of the front legs that can be seen from the
side of the horse?
What are 3 conformation faults of the hind legs that can be seen from the
side of the horse?
What are 4 conformation faults of the hind legs that can be seen from the
back of the horse.
What does tied-in mean?
When a horse has bowed tendons?  Where could they be located?
When a horse has splints, where are all the possible locations?
When a horse has sidebone, where are all the possible locations?
How can you tell if your horse has sidebone?
When a horse has ringbone, where are all the possible locations?
Can a horse have navicular in their hind feet?
Do you know where to find the USPC trailer safety checklist?
Which things on the trailer should be checked yearly? Monthly? Before every
trip?
What medications would you use on a minor wound?  Would you wrap it?
Why or
why not?
How often does your horse get a Rhinopneumonitis shot?
How often does your horse get a Venezuelan Encephalomyelitis shot?
Which vaccinations are often combined with others?
Which vaccinations are required to be given by a vet in California?
When is your horse's next shoeing appointment?
What are some of the horse sports offered in USPC that you've never been to
a rally for?
Name 15 things you'd look for when performing a safety inspection on a D
level rider.
Name several different reasons you'd want to longe a horse.
How long should you longe a horse?
What tack should you use or not use for longeing?
What are the 5 steps in shoeing as listed in the USPC C manual?
What is a buffer used for?
What is a pritchel used for?
How can you tell the difference between nippers and pull-offs?
Does your own shoer have different names for any of the tools listed in the
manual?
Have you practiced your shipping bandage enough that you can get it on
perfectly after only one try? (Note, at this stage you're allowed to do the
wrap "with assistance", however you'll be much more confident if you can
apply it well by yourself!)

For more great questions, see the ponyclub.org website in the forms section,
click on C study guide.
http://www.ponyclub.org/forms.php

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************

Dear Stormy, I have a couple questions to ask you about horse management.

1. My horse got turned out with his stable blanket on, and now he has rubs
on his shoulders, right where they come into his chest. Is there any way I
can make them grow back faster?

2. The same horse goes in a soft rubber snaffle. That's fine, except he's
also a chronic bit chewer. He chews the rubber off and makes the bit more
severe than its meant to be, so I end up buying quite a few bits every year.
I'm curious what alternatives in bitting there are that have the same
effect.

Thank you for taking your time to write such an awesome newsletter!

Jess

Hi Jess,

Those are both great questions.

For the blanket rubs, nothing seems to grow hair back better than an aloe
cream, either Horseman's Dream Veterinary cream, Farnam's Aloe Heal, or
the aloe vet cream from Dionne.  On an email message list once, someone
claimed that aloe cream would make hair grow on a rock!  I haven't tried that,
but it seems to work great on horses.  The next step of course is to make sure
it doesn't happen again.

It sounds like your horse must have a different blanket for turnout but that
he got turned out accidentally in the stable blanket which isn't designed
for turn out.  If a blanket is a consistent shoulder-rubber though, that
means it doesn't fit correctly.  For a while those shoulder sleezys were all
the rage, and they still can be useful in certain situations, but I can't
imagine they would be comfortable for horses to wear long term, I think they
just put up with it.  A blanket with nylon lining at the shoulders will help
prevent shoulder rubs, and one with a high cut wither will help prevent
wither rubs.  I'm not convinced that shoulder gussets actually decrease
shoulder rubs, but they may.  The most important factor though is that the
blanket doesn't slip around, that will definitely cause rubs.  I've heard
that Rambo blankets are famous for not slipping but they tend to be out of
my price range for as infrequently as I blanket.  If any readers have
suggestions of blanket brands that seem to fit well, please email me at
stormy@... .

I'm glad you're replacing your rubber bits as they get chewed up.  Too often,
people don't realize that those chewed areas are like sandpaper on the
tongue and palate.  As for the rubber snaffle, you didn't mention if it's
jointed
or unjointed.  The unjointed will be milder but you may prefer the feel of a
jointed bit.  There are a lot of plastic bits that hold up better than rubber,
but
still are warmer and a little softer than metal bits.  If you use an unjointed
rubber bit, you may want to try Sprenger's plastic duo bit, it has a little flex
to it,
so it can be used to soften the individual sides of the mouth better than a
plain
mullen mouth.  I believe you can get that through Dressage Extensions
(www.dressageextensions.com) or you may need your tack store to special
order it from the Sprenger distributor.  Happy Mouth, and Apple Mouth (sold
through Libertyville Saddle shop, www.saddleshop.com ) also make
unjointed plastic bits but I have  never liked the design of two bumps in the
middle of the mouthpiece, right where the tongue and palate come together.
The Happy Mouth or Apple Mouth bits come in jointed designs that will be
very similar to a rubber jointed bit, but with longer wear.

That's the band-aid solution, the real solution is to figure out why he's
chewing on the bit in the first place.  I'm assuming that the chewing happens
only when he has a bit in his mouth, and when he's eating.  It's pretty rare for
a horse to randomly walk around chewing with nothing in his mouth.  If it's
chronic with a bit, and not just an occasional chew to show that he's soft in
the
mouth, is probably a sign of tension, nervousness, pain, or confusion.  It may
have no reflection on you as a rider, there are many competitive horses who
have bit issues, even with professional riders on them.  Some horses are just
more expressive than others about their discomfort.

I have had very good success with sensitive horses to switch from a bit to a
non-bit method of control.  People of the Parelli school seem to use rope
halters instead of bridles, which can work if the horse is schooled correctly to
accept that.  Another alternative is the non-leverage jumping type hackamore,
which is just a noseband that attaches to the headstall, and then the reins
attach to the sides of the noseband.  It is a little better to use than the rope
halter because it won't slip around the nose as much.  I would avoid
mechanical hackamores which can really damage a horse's  nose and jaw if
used incorrectly, and they are not useful if you need to use a leading rein.  My
personal preference is the Bitless Bridle (www.bitlessbridle.com) which is a
very innovative method of controlling the horse's head using mild leverage for
good control, but not so much that the horse could be injured or frightened.

I have a young horse that I show in dressage who started fussing with the bit
about 6 months after being started.  I switched him to the Bitless Bridle and he
completely relaxed.  Since dressage showing still requires the use of a bit, I
ride with the Bitless Bridle and then a snaffle headstall and bit over it so I'm
holding two sets of reins.  I can warm up mainly using the Bitless Bridle reins
and then switch to the snaffle reins as he balances himself.  Before entering
the arena I remove the Bitless Bridle and he remains relaxed with the bit
because at that point I'm mainly using my legs and seat to control him.

If you do decide to switch to a non-bit alternative, give yourself and your
horse
at least a week or two to learn how to work with the new equipment.  Start in a
smaller, enclosed area teaching the horse to give to pressure; left, right, and
down at the halt first, then walk, trot, and canter.  As you both gain
confidence
with the new control, move to larger areas until you can ride safely out in the
open.  If you want to read some eye-opening research about the effects of bits
in a horse's mouth, take a look at the articles on the Bitless Bridle website.

I know there's a lady in Texas working on reins that attach to a non-leverage
jumping hackamore (sidepull) with a second set of reins that attach with slack
to the bit and then to the primary sidepull reins.  These reins will be a good
alternative for people who want to try riding bitless but don't want to totally
give up the bit in emergency situations.  It will also work well if you aren't
able
to handle two sets of reins.  Stay tuned for more information on that.

Let me know how it works out!
Stormy


***********************************************************

Another couple of questions,

Q1:  Are individual bridles and saddles required to be labeled or can just the
saddle rack and bridle be labeled?  I have seen it both ways but it would be
good if we had a set standard.

Q2:  HM Checklist, Equine First Aid Kit calls for 4 leg bandages with
appropriate padding for 4 stable wraps.   Are no bow wraps or pillow wraps
or other types of wraps acceptable for padding?  And do the bandages have
to be flannel or can they be stable bandages or track bandages?


Thanks..
Barbara Brewer, English Hills PC rally coordinator


Hi Barb,

As per the 2002 HM handbook, bridle and saddle racks are required to be
labeled with the corresponding competitor's number (name could be
acceptable too).  Bridles and saddles aren't required to be labeled, although
in my experience, if you would like to see them after the rally, labeling is a
good idea.  A tag attached the billets of a saddle, under the flap is a good
place.  For bridles, a small bridle tag or piece of labeled tape on the
headstall
of the bridle would work.  Make sure nothing will be able to flap in a horse's
eye or mouth.

No bows or pillow wraps are acceptable padding for stable bandages.  If the
no bows aren't very thick (few are) then it would be appropriate to have 2
pads per leg for proper thickness.  The problem with these paddings are that
they won't work for all horse and pony sizes, so if there is a variety of equine
sizes on the team, they may need to have two separate sets.  If the team
chooses to use sheet cottons as padding, they should already be made  up
into four individual wraps, ready to put on a horse in an emergency.

The bandages which cover the padding can be flannel, or the stretchy ponte
polyester material often sold as "standing wraps" in tack stores.  Track
bandages typically are 4 inch cotton knit bandages which are acceptable,
though if they are 6 inch they will work better unless you have small ponies.

Happy rallying,
Stormy

***********************************************************

Hi Stormy,

Do you know anything more about the name tags on halters?  What type of
info is needed?  Once we know, I will share the info with the region before the
rallies come up.

April Smith, DC Northern Mines Pony Club

Hi April,

It isn't listed anywhere in the Horse Management Handbook that halters need
to be labeled so I asked Virginia Heyward.  Virginia is one of the head Horse
Management people at the national office.  Her reply is as follows:

"What we have asked, most of us at least, is that the halter be labeled with, if
known, barn and/or stall number so that if he is found wandering around we'll
know where he goes.  Competitor number is not as useful.  We do not take
points off for it but insist they do it from a safety, etc. point of view.  Hope
that
helps.

Virginia"

Her response comes after years of judging huge East Coast rallies where
there may be several barns of horses at one multi-day rally.  It would be easy
for our competitors at overnight rallies to stick a piece of sports tape to the
halter cheekpiece and write the barn and stall number if available, competitor
number, or at least club or team name.  The 1" roll of adhesive tape in the
Equine First Aid kit would work great as long as the kids leave enough for
emergency use too.  I'd definitely recommend the labeling for anyone going to
championships!

Remember the markers!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Want to help your Pony Clubber learn how to sew?  What little girl wouldn't
love to make her own polo wraps?  Find some fun projects in the book, "Make
your own horse clothing" by Jean Perry.  The book is available through the
www.amazon.com website.  Who knows, it may even blossom into a career!

Amazon.com reviewer from Mississippi: I own three horses and when you
start buying stuff for three horses you find out rather quickly how expensive it
can be. With this book you will learn how easy it is to make your own horse
blankets, polo wraps, and other useful equipment. This book has helpful
charts, included patterns as well as easy to follow step by step instructions.
Even the beginner can save money and have fun making their
own horse clothing.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be. Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here? How about ideas for recommended products,
books, or videos? Want to submit your own article, or a question for the
questions and answers section? Send them to: stormy@... and
I'll keep a log of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: It takes a steady hand
2) Recommended products and services: Rein-Aid®
3) Rally and rating tips: C2 prep guide
4) Questions and answers: A record book every year?
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Into the West
6) Fun and educational websites

*******************************************************************
It takes a steady hand
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

     Have you ever wondered, just what are independent hands and why are they
so important?  Independent hands are linked to an independent seat.  A rider
with an independent seat and hands is in balance with her horse.  She
doesn't unknowingly hang on the reins to keep her balance, or grip a lot
with her legs to stay on.  Independent hands can be used to guide or check a
horse with the right amount of pressure and exactly when it is needed, not
just when the rider happens to be ready (which is usually too late).

     Independent aids are tested at the C level in Pony Club.  At the C1
rating you are expected to begin establishing a light feel of the mount's
mouth.  By C2 you should be progressing toward an independent seat and
coordinated use of aids while developing a light feel of the mount's mouth.
At the C3 rating, you will be expected to have coordinated aids, an
independent seat (and hands), and a steady light feel of the mount's mouth.
It's interesting to note, your horse is not expected to be "on the bit"
until the B level!

     As an instructor, I can tell that someone has independent hands when
their hands don't bounce up and down with their posting, and the reins can
be held at the correct tension for the horse and type of bit, regardless of
what gait the horse is going at.  Another way I can tell if someone has
independent hands is if I longe them on a horse or put them through a
jumping grid and make them drop the reins.  If the rider's seat and hands
aren't independent, he will need to hold the mane or a neck strap to keep
his balance. Once you understand what independent hands are, the question is
how can you get them?

     The answer isn't just more hours in the saddle.  There are plenty of
people who have been riding for more than 50 years who don't have
independent hands.  The most effective way I have found to help someone
develop independent hands isn't any exercise, it's awareness.  The key is to
become aware of what your body is doing on the horse at all times.  A great
tool to use for this is the video camera.  If you can find someone to video
tape your ride, and to zoom in on your hands, you can see just how
independent your hands really are (or aren't).  It's helpful to use a tripod
when zooming, otherwise you might get motion sickness when you watch the
tape.  While you're being taped, be aware of whether it feels like you have
to make your hands very stiff to keep them still, or if it just feels
natural.  Especially watch what happens to your hands at the posting trot
and during the trot-canter transition.

     Once you've honestly assessed whether you have independent hands or not
(ask your instructor as well), and you're becoming aware of what your body
is doing more often, then it's time for some exercises.  Just like nothing
beats stirrupless riding for developing the independent seat (see the April
2003 issue for more on that), nothing beats reinless riding for developing
independent hands (and it's not nearly as painful).

     There are several ways you can go reinless.  The easiest way is to have
somebody longe you on the horse.  Tie your reins in a knot at the buckle end
so you can grab them if you need to, but they won't be able to get caught
under the horse's legs while you aren't holding them.  You can do all sorts
of exercises this way; arm twists, toe touches, tail touches, ear touches,
airplane, or just holding your hands still as if you were holding reins.
Another exercise is to make a "grid" of 2 or more jumps or trot poles in a
row and once your horse is locked on to going through the jumps straight,
drop the reins and then pick them up again when your horse is done with the
grid.  Be sure to tie a knot in the reins before you let go.

     Another great exercise is to teach your horse to steer from your seat
and legs rather than the reins.  This is what sets the great riders and
horses apart from the mediocre ones.  To teach your horse to steer from your
seat and legs, start at the walk and ask your horse to turn.  If you're
asking the horse to turn left, you might look left, turn your upper body
left, and squeeze with your right leg.  Unless your horse has already been
trained to do this, he'll probably just continue wherever he was going.  At
that point, use a little bit of left rein to make him turn.  Continue on,
and ask for the turn again.  If he doesn't respond to your seat and legs,
then go to the reins.  It will take a lot of repetitions, but eventually
he'll catch on and turn when he just feels your body turn and you won't need
the reins.  Remember, a horse can feel a fly anywhere on his body.  If he
doesn't turn with a little nudge from your leg, it doesn't mean he can't
feel you, it just means he doesn't understand what you want.  A bigger kick
won't help, more repetitions will.

     To ask the horse to stop without reins, sit tall in the saddle and say
"whoa", or whatever your favorite phrase is.  When he doesn't stop, you
might think it's best to pull back on both reins, but it's actually more
effective to just pull (not jerk) on one rein and turn him in a tiny circle.
Then say "whoa" again, and if he doesn't stop, do the circle again.  Be sure
you alternate circling left and right so you stay balanced.  When he does
finally stop, tell him he's the best horse in the world!  After the turn and
halt get pretty good at the walk, go ahead and try it at the trot, then
canter, and then even while jumping.  It can be very frustrating to teach a
horse to do this.  If you feel yourself losing your temper, get off and go
kick a cone around or something.  Don't take it out on the horse, it will
only set your training back.

     Once it feels as natural to ride without reins as it does with them,
start holding the reins again while keeping the awareness that you want to
use the reins as little as possible.  Now you're on your way to independent
hands!

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Rein-Aid®
*******************************************************************
Here's a product that I thought I had invented 8 years ago, but I guess
someone beat me to the market.  Rein-Aids® are elastic inserts that attach
between the reins and the bit.  They soften the rider's contact and work
especially well for riders whose hands aren't quite independent, or on
horses that seem afraid to take contact with the bit.  It really does give a
nice, stretchy feeling that can teach a rider what it means to have "elastic
contact".  Unfortunately, Rein-Aids® aren't legal for many USAEquestrian
disciplines, because they're considered a gadget.  Luckily though, the
Rein-Aid company also makes a full rein with elastic called the Elasto-Rein®
which works the same as the Rein-Aid® but is legal to use in most types of
showing.  Find out more at: www.rein-aid.com .

Another option is to use two longeing side reins with elastic and hook them
together on the non-elastic end.  Then hook the elastic ends to the bit.
Use them just like regular reins.  They work even better than Rein-Aids® in
my experience.  However, make sure they're in good repair and don't start
out in a wide open area or with a horse who has a tendency to bolt, they
might be too stretchy for that.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips:
*******************************************************************
   For the next 5 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the
depth of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections may be
covered.  The guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this knowledge
from books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of practical
experiences and applications of this knowledge.  These guides should be used
along with the standards.

     Please join in!  I started three months ago with the H-A level, which is
the highest level that tests horse management skills, and I'm working my way
down to D1.  If you remember any questions that were asked at ratings you
took, let me know what they were, especially if you realized you should have
studied that section more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating
level, and the rating level each question was from.

     **Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for
these questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are
the most important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do
to find the answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
  ~Stormy

Is it more important to bathe a horse regularly if he is kept in a stall, or
out at pasture?  Why?
Would you rather have your horse in a wet and mucky, or hard and dry
pasture?  Why?
Can you demonstrate how to feel a horse's pulse when you're nervous?
Do you know how to read a mercury thermometer?
What does it mean if your horse is "roughed out"?  How would you feed this
horse?
When should you not feed a sick horse?
What steps would you take to treat a minor cut on a horse's leg?  What
products might you use?
What do you think is the safest fencing for horses and why?
What do you think is the most dangerous fencing for horses and why?
How does your horse get all the minerals she needs?
Name and describe 5 toxic plants and where you might find them.
Would you want a horse with a long back?  Why or why not?
Would you rather have a horse with long or short cannon bones?  Why?
Point to exactly where curb is on a live horse.
Point to exactly where sidebone is on a live horse.
Where exactly are the two places a horse can get spavins?
What is the difference between the two types of spavins?
How many splint bones does a horse have?
What is different between loading and unloading a horse in a straight load
versus a slant?
Do you know the name of every vaccination your horse gets and how often?
How can you prevent internal parasites besides deworming?
Which internal parasites might your horse get? Name at least five!
Can a horse get tetanus from another horse?
Which jaw of the horse is wider, upper or lower?  How does this affect the
need for floating?
What things would you make sure a D is wearing in order to be safe to ride?
What things would you check on a D's horse before letting him ride?
Have you practiced longeing on a regular basis while observing Pony Club
safety rules?
How would you know if your shoer is doing a bad job?
Why would you use bell boots on a horse?
Why might you use a crupper?
Why might you use different tack for dressage and jumping?
How often do you deworm your horse?  What brands do you use?
If you're thinking of turning your horse out in a new pasture, what things
would you check first?
How much shelter should a pastured horse have?
How much should a pastured horse be blanketed?
What is the average respiration for a resting horse?
Now, go back and answer all of these questions from memory!

For more great questions, see the ponyclub.org website in the forms section,
click on C study guide.
http://www.ponyclub.org/forms.php

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************
Hi Stormy,

My C1 daughter (Marisa Berger of Redwoods) is using a slow twist on her
Connemara right now and it is working very very well (the pony doesn't
always want to stop when Marisa wants to - it's a conflict of interests).
Anyway, Marisa says that the slow twist is not allowed at rallies (she
competes cross country in tetrathlon) and she wanted me to ask you to
suggest a comparable Pony Club-sanctioned bit.

Thanks so much for your newsletter!
Connie Ballard, Secretary Redwoods PC

Hi Connie,

     A slow twist is not allowed for Dressage rallies, but for Show Jumping
(which Tet rules refer to) they are ok.  The rules there just specify that
the bit must be correctly fitted and not causing the horse pain.  I have
seen at least one Chief Horse Management judge though who interpreted any
twist as a pain-inducing bit and wouldn't allow them for Show Jumping.
Personally, I agree with her although I think that any bit can be
pain-inducing if it's attached to unforgiving hands.  I've never not allowed
people to ride with slow twists in Show Jumping, Tet, or the XC phase of
Eventing although I make sure they know the consequences of using that bit
(potential sores, numbness, pain reactions).  If you wanted to be totally
safe I would try the pony in perhaps a thinner snaffle (double jointed
french snaffles are my preference, the Sprenger KK Ultra, or a Myler with
the comfort snaffle or mullen barrel mouthpiece) and then spend a lot of
time teaching the pony (and Marisa) how to stop from the seat rather than
the reins.  It's good to have the bit there as a backup plan, not as the
first defense.

Happy halting,
Stormy

***********************************************************
Hi Stormy,

Are members supposed to start a new record book every January 1?  I heard
that somewhere, but I was never aware of it before.

Thanks for any help you can give!
Lynn du Celliee Muller, Liberty Oaks PC, wears many hats!

Hi Lynn,

Yes, they should start a new recordbook each year.  It doesn't necessarily
have to be Jan 1-Jan 1.  For example, if they bought their horse in August
then it could be Aug 1-Aug 1.  The key is to keep each year's worth of
records separately so that the years can be compared and the recordbook
doesn't become a giant monster that scares the examiners.  Previous years
can be kept in a separate binder, or if it's kept neatly, in the same binder
with dividers for each year.

Better get busy!
Stormy

P.S. Be sure to check back to the June 2003 issue for tips on making your
recordbooks great, go to the following link to see it:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/message/3 .

***********************************************************

Stormy, a question has come up about the uniform for EBTH for Ds.  In the
past, our Ds have always attended EBTH in Casual, Polos, breeches, boots.
However, last year at EBTH, a comment was made to the EHPC team about their
choice of dress.  The kids didn't protest it because they didn't know
better.

One more clarification:  Ratings:  what is the appropriate wear for D2's
going for D3.  Have seen several ratings and have seen a mix of uniforms.

Barb Brewer, rally coordinator for English Hills PC

Hi Barb,

It is Always appropriate for D level members to be in "casual attire" i.e.
polo shirts, breeches, and proper footwear to any rally as far as my memory
serves.  Even though there will be no horses at EBTH, please have them wear
their paddock boots which cover the toe and ankles, or tall boots if that's
all they have.  Their hair should also be tied back neatly so as not to
obscure their number.

On the D3 test sheet it states that the rider must be in safe and neat
attire, typically this means a polo type shirt (or sweater), conservative
colored breeches, and safe footwear.  At C1 it's correctly formal or
informal, or as designated by the DC (for example, if the DC knows it's a
hardship for this family to get a coat or stock tie, they can specify that
the rider could come in casual attire).  At C2 the rider must be correctly
formal or informal, as designated by the DC, and at C3 and B they must be
correctly formal or informal.  By the H/HA/A levels, it's back to safe and
workmanlike attire!

Step away from the tack store,
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************
Next time you're at the video store, look for "Into the West".

It is a beautiful story about two Irish boys and a magical white horse.
It's rated PG and has been beautifully filmed in the back streets and back
country of Ireland.  It's well worth the rental fees to join the boys on
their adventure.  It might prove more cost effective to buy it though!

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************
Looking for a nice Horse Care 101 type site?  It's at: Care for my Horse,
http://www.care-for-my-horse.com/ .
This site loads quickly and includes information on health, nutrition,
housing and equipment, as well as including some external links for more
information.  It begins with a very nice prayer:

A Horse's Prayer
Give me food and drink; and care for me.
And when the day's work is done, shelter me.
Give me a clean bed and leave me not too small a place in the stable.
Talk to me, for your voice often takes the place of reins.
Be good to me and I shall serve you more gladly and love you.
-Rochester Mounted Police, NY

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be.  Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here?  How about ideas for recommended products,
books, or videos?  Want to submit your own article, or a question for the
questions and answers section?  Send them to: stormy@... and I'll keep a
log of topics and articles for upcoming issues.  Please note, my email
should be changing again soon.  If you can't get me at stormy@..., please
try: stormy@... .

********************************************************************





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers: More money-saving tips
2) Rally and rating tips: C3 prep guide
3) Questions and answers: Blankets to bits
4) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Understanding Bits

Enjoy the holidays!!!

******************************************************************
Comments from readers
******************************************************************
Stormy,

I just got to read the recent newsletter.  It's excellent as always.

Our farrier gave us a couple of tips on keeping the horses' hooves in good
condition.  I thought I would pass them on in case you would like to add them. 
We use 7% iodine solution twice a week on the horses' hooves, especially the
ones that still have shoes on.  I have noticed a huge difference since we began
the program.  The farrier gave me a little squirt bottle - the kind they use in
beauty supplies to put on hair dye - and we just squirt the iodine under the
shoes and in the frog area once the hooves are picked clean.  You do have to be
careful not to get the iodine on your fingers or clothes.  It's a mess to get
rid of.  The barn floor is also suffering, but the horses' hooves are more
important than the barn floor any day.

I also asked him what the best hoof conditioner on the market was for my new
Irish Horse who was used to a wetter environment than we have and his feet were
drying out pretty badly.  He said to buy the cheapest hair conditioner I could
find (Suave, Herbal Essence, etc.) and just slather it on a few times a week. 
As Chuck put it, the hoof is nothing more than hair and hair conditioners don't
have the other chemicals that the commercial products do which tend to really
dry the hoof versus conditioning it.  We tried both a commercial hoof product
and Suave and the Suave really does seem to work better.  It smells nicer too!

I don't know if this is pony club friendly info, but I do notice a difference.

Also whoever gave the tip on using Lemon Pledge is a wonderful person.  It does
work fantastic on the tails and much cheaper to use than Show Sheen.  The horses
have that lovely lemon scent too.  We actually had a judge comment on it once!

Speaking of tails.  We also use fabric conditioner when we bathe the horses'
tails instead of hair conditioner.  It takes out the knots better and leaves the
tails really silky.  It also cost tons less than horse products. Don't you love
it - we use hair conditioner on their hooves and fabric conditioner on their
tails!  How screwed up are we?

One more thing.  Here's a recipe for homemade Quic Silver - all owners of
white/grey horses should have this.  One bottle of Mrs. Stewart's Bluing (found
in the laundry section of the grocery store), a small bottle of Dawn dish soap
(10-12 oz.), a regular sized bottle of Peroxide, and a small box of baking soda.
Put all ingredients in a plastic milk jug and stir it up.  DO NOT put a lid on
the bottle (we did and ended up with a blue ceiling).  There is a chemical
reaction that takes places and the contents will foam up.  Make sure you put the
milk jug someplace where it won't ruin anything if it foams over (in other
words, OUTSIDE.)  After it quits foaming, add some water to fill up the milk jug
and stir again.  The mixture is great and, again, only costs a few dollars to
make up a gallon of excellent cleaner (a gallon of "horse" product would be
around $50).  We used it on all the horses this year and their white markings
never looked better. This recipe was given to me by a dog groomer who uses it on
all their light colored dogs.

Take care.
April  Smith, DC Northern Mines Pony Club

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: C3 prep guide
*******************************************************************

    For the next 6 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the depth
of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections will be covered.  The
guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this knowledge from
books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of practical
experiences and applications of this knowledge, especially at the C3 level. 
These guides should be used along with the standards.

     Please join in!  I started two months ago with the H-A level, which is the
highest level that tests horse management skills, and I'm working my way down to
D1.  If you remember any questions that were asked at ratings you took, let me
know what they were, especially if you realized you should have studied that
section more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating level, and the
rating level each question was from.

     **Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for these
questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are the most
important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do to find the
answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
  ~Stormy


Which organism is both an internal parasite and an external parasite?
How can you tell if a horse has an abscessed tooth other than by sight?
What is a good angle for the horse's shoulder to be?
What is a goose rump?
Which parts of starthistle are toxic?
What time of year is starthistle toxic?
What is your horse's resting temperature, pulse, and respiration?  After work?
Did you clean your horse's tail all the way down to the tailbone?
Is all the dandruff gone?
Why might a rider choose to use a pelham over a snaffle?
How long would it take to condition a horse for a novice level event?  (Include
starting condition, age, weight, experience, etc...)
What feed changes would you make when conditioning a horse?  Why?
If your horse is post legged is that good or bad?  Why?
What would it look like if your horse had been poisoned by ragwort?
What common feeds provide fat in the horse's diet?
Where do horses get their vitamin D?
How much does a bale of alfalfa cost?
How much does a bag of your grain cost?
Where was your hay grown?
How many splint bones does a horse have?
What conformation contributes to interfering?
A bumper pull trailer usually hooks up with a hitch, 2 safety chains, electrical
connection, and one other little wire.  What is the little wire for and how do
you know if it's working?
How often should you check your trailer's floorboards?  How do you check them?
What fluids should be checked in the towing vehicle?  Should the vehicle be
running or cold when checking them? (If you practice actually checking them
you'll remember much better at the test.)
How do you know if a horse is choking?
Why do people use bell boots?
Why would someone use open front boots instead of full coverage boots?
What damage do strongyles do?
What is proud flesh?
Which immunizations does your horse get and when?
What are the brand names and drug names of the dewormers you use?
What products do you use to clean a wound?
How many teeth does a horse have?
What does Coggins test for?
What are 3 skin diseases and how are they prevented?
What is the difference between shoe pullers and hoof trimmers?
How long should you longe a horse?
What should you do if your horse starts running and bucking on the longe?
What are the most important things to check for when performing a safety check?
What are some things you can do to help a D learn more and not be nervous at a
safety check?
What are some unmounted lessons that you would like to teach?
Which conformation faults could you live with and why?
Which conformation faults do you definitely not want in a horse and why?
Have you had a horse colic?  How did you know?  How will you help prevent it in
the future?
What does low ringbone look like from the outside?  What causes it?
Locate exactly where curb is on a horse.  What causes it?
Where is bone spavin in relation to bog spavin?
What kind of foot care is important for your horse?

For more great C3 questions, visit the pony club website in the forms section:
http://www.ponyclub.org/forms.php
and then click on "C study guide"


*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************
Hi Stormy,

With the cold weather upon us, I want to make sure that my four legged friends
stay warm.  How do you know if they are cold?  If I have clipped my horse, do I
rotate a really warm blanket at night and a lighter weight blanket during the
day?  Thanks for your help :)

Diane Hoffmann, Panache Pony Club parent


Hi Diane,

I read some interesting facts several years ago in a magazine, it said that
humans are most comfortable in the range of 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit, and horses
are most comfortable in the range of 40-60 degrees Fahrenheit.  I think it's
healthier for the horse to err on the side of being a little too cool than
overheated.

The easiest way I have found to tell if they're cold, besides the obvious
shivering, is to check the tips of the ears.  If they feel icy cold then the
horse definitely needs a warmer blanket.  If they feel warm, then he's warm
enough.  Also, feel under the blanket at the shoulders to make sure he's not
sweating in which case you'd need a lighter blanket or none at all.  Sometimes
when horse's ears get wet they feel cold although the horse still seems
comfortable.  Use your best judgment in that case.

If your horse grows a normal winter coat and has a shelter to get out of the
wind and rain then she won't need a blanket in this California climate.  Some
horses just naturally prefer to be cooler than others and that way they can
regulate it themselves.  If your horse has a light coat or is trace clipped, she
may need some light blanketing, especially right after clipping.  If your horse
has a full, hunter, or blanket clip you'll definitely need to blanket when the
weather is below about 50 degrees.  Clips grow out in about 2 months, or when
spring shedding starts, whichever comes first, so the blanket you used for the
first month after clipping may be too heavy for the second month.  If you put a
new blanket on, allow about an hour and then recheck the ears and shoulders to
see how the horse is doing.  If the horse is going to be in the rain, always use
a waterproof/breathable blanket.  Water resistant will only resist the lightest
showers.

If you aren't sure about the ear test, here's a blanketing chart based on my
experience.  Honestly, most horses will probably be fine with less blanketing
than this, but this way I can sleep at night:

     Heavy blanket
full, hunter, or blanket clipped first month if below about 50 degrees
trace clip first month if below about 50 degrees without shelter
light coat without shelter if below about 50 degrees and raining

     Light blanket
full, hunter, or blanket clip first month if between about 50-60 degrees
full, hunter, or blanket clip second month if below about 50 degrees
trace clip first month if below about 50 degrees with shelter
trace clip second month if below about 50 degrees with no shelter
light coat with shelter if below about 50 degrees and raining

     No blanket
full, hunter, or blanket clip first month if above about 60 degrees
full, hunter, or blanket clip second month if above about 50 degrees with
shelter
trace clip first month if above about 50 degrees with shelter
trace clip second month with shelter
light coat with shelter above about 50 degrees
non-clipped horses with normal winter coat and shelter

A good way to tell if the temperature has been getting above or below certain
points is to buy a barn thermometer that shows the highs and lows for the day. 
Checking this regularly will help you gauge the weather more accurately.

Stay cool!
Stormy

***********************************************************
Hi Stormy,

Our pony club is finally putting together a complete set of rally equipment to
be kept in storage and ready for use (without our usual running around in
sixteen different directions, borrowing, pilfering etc.)  I am having a hard
time finding the " feed measure (scale or prepackaged)" is what the list reads.
We have always borrowed our barn scale. Can you tell me what would be the best
to get and where to acquire it.

Thanks.
Heidi Byer at Marin County Pony Club in Bolinas

Hi Heidi,

It's a great idea to put the rally equipment together now.  The feed scale
requirement has always been a sticky point in horse management judging.  The
original idea behind the scale was to enable the competitors to accurately feed
their mounts the same amount as they eat at home.  To fill that
purpose, the ideal scale in my mind is the type they put babies on to weigh
them.  It has a wide "bin" where you can place the flake of hay or bucket of
grain.  However, I've never seen anybody bring one to a rally because it's not
the most portable of devices.  Typically I'll see what are called "fish
scales" where you hang up the scale, hang a bag from it, and then add the hay to
the bag in the proper amount.

Here's the latest scoop on the scale requirement at rallies.  It used to state
that the team could have either a scale and loose feed (i.e. bales of hay and
bags of grain), or they could prepackage their feeds (by weight of course) at
home and then bring them in labeled bags and containers to the rally (for
example: #21 Buddy's Saturday AM hay).  If the feed is prepackaged then they
didn't need to bring the actual scale to the rally.  Prepackaging also nearly
eliminates the chance of a horse getting into the grain bag and gorging himself
into a bout of laminitis.  It's hard to get sick on two days worth of grain. 
Most competitors would prepackage feed and thereby eliminate the need for a
scale at a rally.

The latest decision by the Horse Management Committee was to do away with the
scale requirement all together.  They felt that feeding by weight should be
taught within the club and it is tested in the C1 rating.  I'm not sure if that
has come out in writing yet, so it may be safest to either come with prepackaged
hay and/or a little inexpensive fish scale (available at hardware stores) and
hay bag.  Even if you never use it at a rally, it's great for using at the barn
and for teaching about how feeds are measured and weighed.  We'll see what the
2004 Horse Management Guidebook has to say about it when it comes out.

Just to be thorough, I want to mention never to prepackage feed in any type of
plastic when you're coming to a rally (even woven plastic bags like they use for
A&M).  If a horse were to get into the feed area, they would probably ingest a
lot of plastic along with the feed, as well as the plastic being more likely to
mold the feed prematurely.  Hay can be tied into flakes with twine or put in
large paper grain bags.  Grain can be stored in small paper bags and then placed
in a larger garbage can secured with a chain on the lid.

Happy scales,
Stormy

***********************************************************
Hi Stormy,

I have a question regarding the bitting rules. Actually its more a problem
regarding my interpretation of the rules. Does pony club not allow bits with two
types of metal in the mouthpiece, or two types of metal on the whole bit? I have
a Herm Sprenger bit that is working really well on one of my Thoroughbreds, but
I am not sure if I can use it because the mouthpiece is Aurigan. Thanx,

Kayla, Liberty Oaks Pony Club


Hi Kayla,

That's an old rule that seems to never give up.  It used to be that more than
one type of metal in the bit mouthpiece was against the USA Equestrian dressage
rules (formerly AHSA).  That rule has been completely done away with now.  Go
ahead and use your Aurigan bit!  If it's a Sprenger KK Ultra with a little arrow
on one of the bit cannons, make sure the arrow is on the left side and pointing
towards the front of the horse.

Happy salivating!
Stormy

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs! Understanding Bits
*******************************************************************
Understanding Bits with Stormy May

Here it is!  This is the project I have been working on for the past year.  I
want to especially thank everyone who came together to make this dream a
reality.

Understanding Bits is a 75 minute educational video that has enough information
to take you through the H-A rating in the bitting category.  It is a perfect
reference tool for the club's library or individuals who want to understand more
about this often misunderstood subject.  It's better than a book because you can
actually see the bits on horses and watch their actions and reactions.  The
video covers the principles for both English and Western type bits.  Watch for
many local Pony Clubbers and their parents starring in the video!

Topics include:
*Comparison of the six bit types
*Proper use of bits and bridles without bits
*How to test a bit's severity
*Bit materials
*Mouth conformation
*Fitting bits and bridles without bits
*Methods to create a more harmonious relationship with your horse

At the time of this printing, the video is available on DVD.  VHS orders will be
taken on a pre-order basis.  Pony club price is $20.00 + $5.00 shipping and
handling, or free s/h if I deliver it to you in person at a Pony Club function. 
Just mention that you're with Pony Club.  Retail price will be $30-40. through
catalogs and tack stores starting next year.

My website will be available soon for orders, but until then just contact me
directly at stormym@... to get your copy.  If you would like to pay online
with your credit card, visit the website: www.paypal.com and make the payment
to: stormym@... it works great!

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be.  Do you have any issues you'd like
to see addressed here?  How about ideas for recommended products, books, or
videos?  Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions and
answers section?  Send them to: stormym@... and I'll keep a log of topics
and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Old People's Pony Club!
2) Feature: Setting up your club's Horse Management program
3) Recommended products and services: Thrush Buster
4) Rally and rating tips: B prep guide
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Grooming To Win
6) Fun and educational websites

******************************************************************
The OPPC becomes official!
******************************************************************
I guess they didn't want to call it Old People's Pony Club, but for those of you
who enviously watch as your children get to have all the fun, read about the
Horsemaster's program, the adult version of USPC.

November 21, 2003

We are pleased to announce that the USPC Board of Governors voted to continue
the Horsemasters program and allow continued controlled growth. We're excited to
begin plans for the upcoming year, and hope you and your members will be active,
learn and have fun. To help everyone understand this new program I would like to
expand upon the structure and governance for the program.

1. Each Horsemasters group must be attached to a club or region of USPC. A
Horsemaster's group is totally under the control and discretion of the DC of the
club or the RS of the Region. The DC/RS appoints the Horsemaster Liaison and the
Liaison reports directly to the DC/RS.

2. Any Horsemasters group funds are under the control of the DC. Horsemasters
group activities are like any other Pony Club activity, i.e. your meeting
locations must be listed with the USPC National Office for insurance coverage to
be extended to the landowner. All finances must be reported as a part of the
club financial report.

3. Each local Pony Club has an annual meeting of the sponsors, in the fall of
the year, to elect officers and set the club calendar for the next year.  Each
Horsemasters group must have a meeting by Feb. 15 with the DC or Co-DC in
attendance to set the group's calendar. This is to facilitate the Horsemasters
group's operating in conjunction with the local club's youth program. It must in
no way interfere with or detract from the youth program. This will also
facilitate the Horsemasters groups planning for their volunteer efforts to
support the local club, which is an important component of the Horsemasters
program.  We would like each liaison to keep track of the group's volunteer
time/hours for this year so we can report this to the Board of Governors. This
may be something that the group would like to track for individual members and
recognize them for their efforts.

4. We will be establishing a new national committee to support the Horsemasters
groups. Janet Blevins and Diane Hunter will co-chair this committee and will
primarily communicate with the Horsemaster groups via the Horsemasters Digest.
We will also make the Horsemasters Digest available to all Horsemasters members.

5. Janet and Diane will be conducting workshops at the Annual Meeting. We will
also have a meeting of Horsemasters Liaisons on Friday, January 16, 2004 at
8:00am at the Annual Meeting.

We appreciate your comments and suggestions to make the Horsemasters program
better.
Please feel free to call me at 859-254-7669 or email at
executivedirector@....

Sincerely,

Peggy Entrekin, USPC Executive Director

******************************************************************
Setting up your club's Horse Management program
******************************************************************
Summary of the Northwest Regional Horse Management Guidebook,
Written by Dawn Marie Maurer, HMO Northwest region, paraphrased by Stormy May

If you are a DC, please read and print the full version of this guidebook at:
http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cHbKP_PAONltDFdTi7VmPEBqJkH09j1Fme4gzMHN-KWLk5354T1\
nygvGA_U8zrVXJJIL-pNMc4nbbxIL4Ew/Northwest%20Region%20Horse%20Management%20Progr\
am%20Guidebook.doc
or if that doesn't work, go to this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter/files/
and then click on the Northwest Regional Horse Management Guidebook link.

Summary:
Consider club's strengths, assets, and weaknesses
Set goals and action plans
Formulate a selection of learning opportunities
Build a foundation of good teaching
Cultivate club resources
Building the next generation
Taking a look back
Regional resources

Start the year by compiling a list of your club's strengths

Be sure to include:
Upper level pony clubbers
Parents or sponsors with horsy backgrounds (including vets, farriers, feed
dealers)
Club members who LOVE horsy facts and book learning
Local stud farms, show facilities, boarding operations, trainers of different
disciplines.
Just because they aren't "Pony Club people" doesn't mean they can't teach your
club a lot.
Be creative!

Next, pinpoint what you consider to be your club's weaknesses

Perhaps ask recent examiners what areas most candidates needed help in.
Ask for feedback from parents, instructors, former DCs, and the members
themselves.
Address the amount of time that you are currently dedicating to Horse Management
instruction.
Are the members comfortable with this amount?
Do the members want more or less? Are they ready to commit to a new schedule?

Set goals

Tailor goals to fit the club's needs, examples may be:
Hold two ratings per year.
Teach all the HM areas tested at a rating in each lesson group once a year (or
every 18 months or every two years)
Field well prepared, safe teams to three rallies and Quiz each year.

     Setting goals will allow you to come up with an appropriate time frame and
level of complexity for your program. Once the club goals have been defined, you
may want to help individual members consider their personal goals. This is a
great activity for the first meeting after New Years, or after new officers are
elected. It can be done as part of a brainstorming session with the whole group.
After members have chosen their goals for the year, help them to create an
action plan to help them realize those goals. Encourage members to use concrete
steps, preferably with dates that they will have each step accomplished by. This
will help focus and add a greater sense of accomplishment for successfully
attained goals.

     Now, it's time to overlay the club goals with the individual members' goals.
For example, if 4 members wish to take the C1 rating next fall, you can
structure lesson plans to cover the test requirements over the upcoming months.
Perhaps a study group should be considered, or specialized clinics.

     If rallies are important to members and the club, start planning rally teams
well before entries are mailed out. Once the regional calendar comes out the
club can plan which rallies the members would like to participate in. If perhaps
6 members would like to participate in one rally, the "team" can start planning
study sessions to learn the rulebook, learn the items on the required equipment
checklist, and get extra training with the rally coach.  If all 6 are still
available at rally time, everyone can draw straws and the two extra can form
half of a mixed team.

Formulate a selection of learning opportunities

     After goal setting and activity dates have been set, it's time to fill out
the rest of the club calendar. Solid planning at least 3-6 months ahead will
help the club stay on track for the goals. A minimum guideline is to hold at
least one mounted and one unmounted meeting per month in most circumstances.
Other options may be to teach unmounted in the winter and then ride all spring
and summer, or to take Dec/Jan off for family holidays and vacations. Time out
of school may be used for special activities like field trips. Larger clubs may
have Ds and Cs meet on separate days except for occasional all-club activities.
Some smaller groups like rally teams or rating study groups may meet
independently more often.

Build a foundation of good teaching

     Now, it's time to implement these plans! Horse Management needs to become a
regular part of Pony Club, not just something done at rallies and ratings. One
of the best ways to accomplish this is to include Horse Management at every
mounted meeting as well as the unmounted meetings. Mandatory safety checks
before lessons are a good start. Post-lesson cooling out and trailer area checks
can be made as well. This discourages members from tying the pony, dumping the
tack, and running off to talk to their friends. Horse Management can also be
built into the body of a lesson, especially for younger Ds. These types of
lessons are especially good for upper level Pony Clubbers to teach. One example
is to create a race where riders walk or trot down to the far end of an arena,
answer a HM question, and once they have answered correctly, they can return to
the starting point. Another good integration would be after a hard lesson, to
have Cs take their horse's pulse and respiration before they leave the arena.

     Unmounted lessons can be taught by older Pony Clubbers, Pony Club
instructors, and/or clinicians. Be sure to teach to all the levels, including
one level above the highest rated member. The USPC bookstore has many great
books and charts that include everything from basic lesson plans to musculature
of the horse. It's very important not to alienate your older members. Keep them
interested by asking them to teach, hiring special clinicians for them (perhaps
in combination with a few other clubs), and providing compensation for the
assistance they provide the club.  Compensation could be in the form of payment
for a prep clinic or a rally.

     Supplemental teachers from outside the club might be examiners, graduates,
or HM judges. Other visiting experts such as farriers, vets, feed dealers, etc.
can be great teachers as well provided you take the time to tell them what Pony
Club is about and what you are hoping your members will get out of this
exposure. Field trips can add variety to horse management lessons.

Cultivating club resources

     Parents can play a vital role in Pony Club. Not just by funding the horses
and driving the truck, but by being trained in one or more of the following
positions:
Safety checker
Record book reviewer
Study/rating group coordinator
Club instruction coordinator
Club librarian

Building the next generation

     A mentor program may be helpful for your club. When a new member joins, an
older C or above can be teamed with the new member to integrate them into the PC
world. If the prospective member is too young for the D manual, they might be
well-served by the Junior Pony Club publication, put out by USPC which prepares
young riders and their parents for Pony Club involvement.

Taking a look back

     Once a year, take a look back and assess how your program is fulfilling your
club's needs. An annual members/family questionnaire may help. Relevant
questions might be:
Did you reach your Pony Club goals this year?
Do you feel the club programs helped you to achieve these goals?
What was the best part of the educational program?
Where do you feel the club could help you more?

Regional resources

     Your club is not alone! Whenever your club needs help sorting out a HM
problem or organizing a program, your Horse Management Organizer is there to
help. In addition, the HMO hires the Chief Horse Management Judges for the
rallies, puts on the annual HM clinic, and provides training for assistant HM
judges within the region. The HMO is also a resource for good HM instructors in
the area, especially graduate PCers, and they can link you up with neighboring
clubs that may have current upper level members who would be willing to do some
teaching. If you are in the Sierra Pacific region, Stormy May and Liz Tapia are
your HMOs for 2004.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Thrush Buster
*******************************************************************
     I don't know about you, but after using Koppertox religiously for a few
years, I came to the conclusion that thrush was very difficult to get rid of. 
That was until a Pony Club instructor showed me how to make a mixture of
formaldehyde and iodine that swiftly wiped out all traces of thrush in one or
two applications.  Several years later, a product called Thrush Buster came out
with its main ingredients being formaldehyde and iodine.  Thrush Buster also has
the added bonus of a purple dye that lets you know when the medicine has worn
off.

     In researching the formaldehyde/iodine mixture on the Internet I found that
some people thought it was great, others didn't like it for various reasons, but
until I can find anything else that works this well, I'm recommending Thrush
Buster.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: B prep guide
*******************************************************************
     For the next 7 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the depth
of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections will be covered.  The
guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and upper level graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this
knowledge from books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of
practical experiences and applications of this knowledge, especially at the B
level.  These guides should be used along with the standards.

     Please join in!  I started last month with the H-A level, which is the
highest level that tests horse management skills, and I'm working my way down to
D1.  If you remember any questions that were asked at ratings you took, let me
know what they were, especially if you realized you should have studied that
section more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating level, and the
rating level each question was from.  Thanks to Anna Brink and Wendy Morris for
help with this month's questions.

     **Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for these
questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are the most
important part.  The studying and questioning that you have to do to find the
answers will be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
  ~Stormy

Name all of the bones of the foreleg beginning with the scapula.
What are some different areas that Haebronema can infect and how are they
prevented?
Which tendon runs over the navicular bone?
What does the navicular bursa do?
How do you properly fit a double bridle?
Which vitamins might need to be supplemented for a race horse?
How do the supplements you feed balance your horse's ration?
How do you know if a saddle is properly fitted?
Name the hock bones.
Why do people pinfire horses?
What are three reasons people use a flash noseband?
At what age do horses typically develop splints, and why?
Describe the lifecycle of lungworms to include length of lifecycle, areas
infected, symptoms of infestation, preventative measures, possible non-equine
hosts, treatment, and any seasonal considerations.
Why might a foregirth be used?  How is it properly fitted?
What do the collateral ligaments do?  The annular ligament?
Where does the plantar ligament connect?
What does ossification mean?  Which disease is caused by ossification of the
collateral cartilage?
What are osselets?  What causes them?
What are the dangers of longeing a rider on a horse?
What is the function of the frog?
What causes corns?
Which vitamins do not usually need to be supplemented?
Which tools does the farrier use to take off a shoe?
At what age do dental stars appear?
When is a horse said to have a "full mouth"?
What is a typical distance for trot poles?  Canter poles?
Name 3 conformational traits that might contribute to over-reaching.
What is a good protein level for horses on a rigorous conditioning schedule?
What are at least 5 ways you can tell if a horse is getting fatigued?
What is the largest internal parasite of the horse?
What are some symptoms of large strongyle infection?
How can you tell if your parasite prevention program is working?
When is it most important to kill bot larvae?
Why might a horse prefer a french link snaffle over a single jointed snaffle?
What role does fat play in the horse's diet?
At what age does Galvayne's groove appear?
If a horse has short, straight pasterns, what is he predisposed to?
Explain the difference between bog and bone spavins.
What is your horse's immunization schedule, and why?
Have you seen a horse with a tooth abscess?  What are the signs?  Treatments?
What does inversion refer to?
At what rating level is it appropriate to jump a one stride combination?
At what rating level is it appropriate to jump a bending line?
If you came upon a horse pressing his head against a post, what things might you
suspect?
If you have a horse with a history of founder, what preventative measures will
you take?
What are the fat soluble vitamins?  How do they differ from the others?
How do you tell if a crupper is properly fitted?
What types of hay are unsuitable for horses?
Why is it important to make feed changes gradually?  Be specific.
How does a horse who is weak through the loins look different than one with
strong loins?
What is herring gut?
Why might a kineton noseband be used?  How is it properly fitted?

For more great questions, visit the USPC website in the forms section:
http://www.ponyclub.org/forms.php
and then click on "B study guide"

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Grooming To Win by Susan E. Harris (author of the USPC manuals) has been a
staple since it first came out in 1977.  Now, in the updated version, it covers
everything from braiding styles and techniques, to whitening socks, and
conditioning your show horse.  Following, are reviews from the amazon.com
website.

Very Comprehensive,  Reviewer: Susan from Loganville, GA United States
From body clipping to everyday grooming, Ms. Harris has provided an excellent
reference for everyone from the first-time exhibitor to seasoned professionals.
She covers nearly every riding discipline imaginable, going over grooming
procedures for each in a thorough yet concise manner. Her explanations are easy
to translate into technique and the book offers many illustrations. This book
makes for excellent reading for the novice and a wonderful reference for the
more experienced horse groom.

Excellent!,  Reviewer: from USA
I have had this book for 3 years now, and it is still the best I have come
across for grooming and conditioning horses not only for the showring, but for
everyday riding and enjoyment. As someone who shows in many different
disciplines, this book has been and invaluable source of info for me, and I have
recommended it to everyone in my barn, including my trainer!

Making the dirtiest chores enjoyable!,
      Reviewer: from Dallas, PA United States
This is one of those books you don't use every day, but when you're thoroughly
confused or completely forgetting something it comes in handy. It has a lot of
great pictures and illustrations that makes it great for kids as well as adults.
I learned a lot about alternative grooming methods that I had never even heard
of before!

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************
Looking for a recipe for oven baked horse cookies?
How about horse light bulb jokes?
Or more seriously, find information about thrush, headshaking, wobbler syndrome,
EIA, sarcoids, and even diabetes in horses as well as numerous other diseases,
conditions, and management tips.

All available here:
http://www.petcaretips.net/horse_care.html

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be.  Do you have any issues you'd like
to see addressed here?  How about ideas for recommended products, books, or
videos?  Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions and
answers section?  Send them to: stormym@... and I'll keep a log of topics
and articles for upcoming issues.

Don't forget to send me any questions you remember from past ratings for the
prep guides!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers: More on stock ties
2) Feature: How to read a mercury thermometer
3) Recommended products and services: Aloe cream and Elastikon
4) Rally and rating tips: Prep guide: H-A level
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Centered Riding by Sally Swift
6) Fun and educational websites

******************************************************************
Comments from readers
******************************************************************
Hi Stormy,

     Another great horse newsletter.  I was very interested by the piece on
stock ties and in Larry Byers comments.  In the 18 years I have hunted in
England, I have always seen the pin secured below the knot, and we have WET
weather.  Most stock pins are not strong enough to stick through that many
pieces of thick fabric (stock ties should be double thick cotton) maybe in
the diagram the pin gets slipped behind the material in the knot but then
that won't hold it tight.  Another reason for securing below the knot is to
help stop the ends flying up in your face as you gallop across country
should they come out of your jacket.

      I was apprenticing at the regional C3 this week and we got to check out
some stock ties on the correctly formal candidates and I did notice some
basic differences between here and back home.  The ties here are made out of
really soft lightweight cotton, one of the candidates did not have the pin
through the knot and a comment was made by an examiner so I mentioned your
piece and we discussed it.  It turned out to be a great discussion.  The
examiner asked why the tie wasn't poofed out more (dressage style) etc.  The
candidate said that she does in fact have a stiffer tie that holds its shape
better but that her pin won't go through the knot of that tie.  The examiner
mentioned she too used to starch and iron her tie to make it stand up better
and used to stick the end of her pin in wax to make it slide through the
material better!

     All candidates had white stock shirts so the shirt wasn't too obvious or
tatty with a thinner tied tie.  In the UK we tend to wear thermal canary
yellow stock shirts which HAVE to be hidden, also when wearing ratcatcher
(which I had never heard applied to a style of shirt before coming here, to
me that is a whole style of dress involving tweed jackets worn before the
start of the formal hunt season) we wore colored stock ties often paisley
print or blue with white spots.  These don't match your shirt so you need to
make sure the shirt is not visible.  Men wear real wool/tweed ties with
ratcatcher jackets.  Having the stock tie fill the V made by your jacket
front helps keep out drafts keeps your chest warm and a stiff tie tied tight
makes you sit up straight - helps with the British stiff upper lip when the
wind and rain is howling.  I have no idea whether these international
differences have led to the two ways of tying stock ties that we are seeing
at rallies etc. but it's interesting to me.

Clair Spackman, DC Panache Pony Club

[Editor's note: It is stated in the Horse Management Handbook that the plain
pin is to be fastened horizontally through the knot of the stocktie.]

*******************************************************************
How to read a mercury thermometer
*******************************************************************

At the C2 rating, the candidates need to show the examiner how to take the
temperature, pulse, and respiration of a horse at rest.  The two most common
problems I encounter is that either the candidate can't find the pulse under
the jawbone, or that they haven't learned how to read a mercury-type
thermometer.  Here's a quick lesson on reading a thermometer.  I'm not going
to discuss digital thermometers here although they are perfectly acceptable
to use.  Typically you'll find the mercury-type thermometer in rally first
aid kits.

The first step is to take the thermometer out of its plastic case.  Do this
VERY CAREFULLY because often, the end of the thermometer gets broken during
transportation and there is mercury rolling around somewhere.  Mercury looks
fun to play with but it is a very toxic substance.  Remember the Mad Hatter
in Alice in Wonderland?  People who made hats used to go insane because of
the mercury that they worked with while making hats.  That's what my
chemistry teacher told me anyway.  If you do find that the thermometer has
broken, very carefully look for the mercury and put it in a container to
take to a toxic waste disposal site.  If your thermometer has a blue or red
line in it instead of a silver one, then it does not have mercury in it and
you are safe!  The thermometer should be a heavy-duty type with a ring at
one end where you tie a string and some sort of fastener to clip on the
horse's tail while you're waiting 3 minutes for an accurate reading.  Be
sure you've shaken the thermometer down under 97 degrees before taking a
temperature reading.

Here's the tricky part.  Find a thermometer now so you can follow along.  A
human thermometer will work fine for learning how to read it.  The
thermometer is usually made of triangular shaped glass.  One of the three
sides will be white or yellow and have the brand name printed on it.  The
other two sides will be clear and have little lines and numbers on them.
One side should have a "C" and the other will probably have an "F".  C
stands for Celsius, and F stands for Fahrenheit.  These are two different
methods of measuring heat.  In the United States we usually use Fahrenheit,
and in other parts of the world, Celsius is more common.  In between the
Fahrenheit and Celsius sides is the silver, blue, or red line that shows how
warm it is.  It takes some practice and patience to find the line.  As
you're looking between the Fahrenheit and Celsius marks, very gently turn
the thermometer back and forth.  You should see a line appear and disappear
depending on how you look at it.  If you can't see the line, it's usually
because the thermometer needs to be shaken down, try shaking the thermometer
vigorously until you can tell where the line ends.  If you still can't find
it, ask someone who knows how to read it to show you how to find it.

Next, let's learn to read the Fahrenheit side.  The markings should look
something like this:
(I can't guarantee this will work on all computer monitors.  If these marks
aren't all on one line on your monitor, try enlarging the window.  If the
lines are still jumbled, you can just skip the visuals.)

              96                8               100               2
4                 6                 8
F  I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i
i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I

Determine which marking your silver, blue, or red line comes closest to.  If
it ends at the long line "I" that is right under the number 96, that means
the temperature is 96 degrees Fahrenheit.  If it ends at the long line right
under the number 100, that is 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  If it ends at the
long line under the 8 between 96 and 100, that means it's 98 degrees
Fahrenheit.  If it ends at the long line between 96 and 8, then it's 97
degrees Fahrenheit.

What about if it ends at one of the short lines "i"?  Each little line shows
.2 degrees Fahrenheit, that's two tenths of a degree.  So if it was one
little line past the 100 line, then it's 100.2 degrees Fahrenheit.  If it
ends three little lines past the number 2, then it's 102.6 degrees
Fahrenheit.  Are you catching on?

Try this:

              96                8               100               2
4                 6                 8
F  I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i
i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I
-------------------------------------------------------------------

1) Imagine the dotted line above is the silver, blue or red line in your
thermometer.  What temperature is it?

****************************************************************************
************
              96                8               100               2
4                 6                 8
F  I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i
i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I
--------------------------------

2) What temperature is above?  Whose normal temperature is this? (Hint, you
might have a little arrow at that spot on your own thermometer.)

****************************************************************************
************
              96                8               100               2
4                 6                 8
F  I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i
i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I i i i i I
----------------------------------------------

3) What temperature is this?  Whose normal temperature is it?

(Answers at the end of this newsletter)


*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Aloe cream and Elastikon
*******************************************************************

Does your horse have dry, hairless, scabby spots on his hocks or on the
front of his fetlocks?  These are caused by lying down and getting up on
hard ground.  You may have noticed them getting larger over the summer when
the ground is hard and the flies are merciless.  Fortunately there is an
easy and painless way to heal these sores.

First, gently wash the sores with a mild soap and lots of water to help them
soften up.  Second, rub an aloe cream into the sores and leave it there.
There are three common brands of aloe cream, and in my experience, they all
work well.  They are: Aloe Heal from Farnam, Veterinary Cream from
Horseman's Dream, and Aloe Vera Vet Cream from Dionne.  All of the creams
are light blue and have a nice smell.

If the sores are very raw and painful-looking, after you put aloe cream on
and the hair dries, wrap them with some sort of adhesive veterinary wrap.  I
like the 4 inch Elastikon wraps.  Just wrap once around the dry hock or
pastern and overlap an inch or two without pulling it tight.  Then cut the
wrap and save the rest for later.  Leave the Elastikon on until it falls
off.  It should last at least a week.  This gives the sores time to heal
without being reinjured.

Once the scabs aren't open and bleeding, just wash off the areas and put
more cream on every day.  In my experience, even the most stubborn scabs
have hair growing back within a month.  After the spots have healed, just
use the cream at the first sign of little scabs to keep the skin supple and
healthy.

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: H-A prep guide
*******************************************************************

For the next 8 months I am going to spotlight a prep guide for each of the
rating levels.  The questions are ones that give a good indication of the
depth of knowledge needed at each level.  Only certain sections will be
covered.  The guides are not meant to be comprehensive, they are only
intended to get you studying on the right track.  Many of the answers can be
found in the Pony Club manuals.  Additional resources include veterinarians,
trainers, farriers, and upper level graduate Pony Clubbers.  Memorizing this
knowledge from books is a start but the examiners will also want to hear of
practical experiences and applications of this knowledge.  These guides
should be used along with the standards.

Please join in!  I'm starting with the H-A level, which is the highest level
that tests horse management skills, and working my way down to D1.  If you
remember any questions that were asked at ratings you took, let me know what
they were, especially if you realized you should have studied that section
more!  Be sure to include your name, current rating level, and the rating
level each question was from.

**Most importantly, I hope there are never any answer keys made for these
questions.  It isn't necessarily these questions or answers that are the
most important part.  The studying you have to do to find the answers will
be the biggest value.**

Good luck!
  ~Stormy

What are axons, neurons, and dendrites?  Explain how they work together.
What is the general percentage of protein in grade 1 oats?
How wide should stall doors be?
Can you identify extruded feed?
How many cervical vertebrae does a horse have?  What are the first two
called?
What is the tarsus?
What does the brachiocephalus do?
Where are red blood cells produced?
What does the lymph system do?
How is lymph moved through the body?
What is the difference between the pharynx and the larynx?
What do you think pleuritis is?
Name two diseases affecting the circulatory system.
What three enzymes are secreted by the stomach?
Name three parts of the small intestine (in order.)
What is peristalsis?
Name 5 causes of diarrhea.
What system contains nephrons and what do they do?
Which chemicals work in the nervous system and what do they do?
What is a cryptorchid?
How long is the estrus cycle?  How long is estrus?
What are the three layers of skin?
What are apocrene glands?
What is the stay apparatus?
What percentage protein is recommended for weanlings?  Mature horses in
light
         work?  Pregnant mares?  Mature horses in no work?  Lactating mares?
Two
         year olds?
How many calories are in a Mcal?
What should the moisture level of baled hay be?
What nutrients are lost when hay has been stored too long?
What is the general percentage of protein in midbloom alfalfa?
How much does a bale of alfalfa hay cost?
How much does a bale of alfalfa hay weigh?
What would an eight year old horse's teeth look like?
What would a thirteen year old horse's teeth look like?
Why would you feed beet pulp?
What problems can excessive protein lead to?
How can you check the exact percentages of nutrients in your own horse's
feed?
When do the intermediate incisors erupt?  When are they in wear?
What is a wave mouth?
What is the drug of choice when performing sheath cleaning?
What is the drug of choice when performing teeth floating?
What are two drugs of choice for colic (visceral pain)?
What drugs may be used for eye problems (4)?
What is the drug of choice for musculoskeletal conditions?
Why would the vet use dormosedan?
Why might the vet mix Butorphenol (Torbugesic) with xylazine?
Which drug is known to release a horse's inhibitions (especially to kick)?
What is ataxia?  Which drugs may cause it?
What is a side effect of bute?
Given orally, how long does bute take to be effective?  How long does it
last?
Given IM, how long does Ace take to be effective?  How long does it last?
What is Azium?  Why might it be used?  What are some side effects?
What is the difference between an anesthetic and an analgesic?
What are common sources of carbohydrates in a horse's ration?
What are legumes?
What is a normal pulse rate during maximum exertion?
What structures in the horse are the fastest to condition?  What takes the
         longest time?
Evaluate worming rotation programs in relation to cost versus parasite types
         and lifestages killed.
How can you aid a horse that is cast in his stall?
What are 5 ways to reduce a horse's reaction to vaccinations?
What vaccinations should be given yearly?  What time of year?  Which are bi-
         annual?  Every other year?  Every 2-3 months?  Are there any
vaccinations
         your horse doesn't need?
Why is soil testing important?  How is it done?


*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************

Centered Riding by Sally Swift was an instant hit when it was published in
1985 and is now an enduring classic.  I use Sally's imagery in my teaching
nearly every day.  It's especially useful for people who are very visual in
their thinking (which includes most children!)

Here is a review from the amazon.com website:

"My favorite old standby"
  Reviewer: from New York, NY United States

As a rider and instructor, this is a great guide to any style of riding.  I
have given it as a gift to many of my students.  Innovative teaching methods
that work is what it boils down to.  The methods are easy for young children
to understand because there are a lot of imaginative descriptions and
illustrations, but at the same time, will not dumb down riding for adults.
It's not a how-to book, but more of a new way to look at your riding from
the horse up.  It's been around for years, and it's still on every
horsepersons' shelf, and for good reason.

*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************
Do you have questions about rules at USA Equestrian shows?  Ever wonder
where many Pony Club rules come from?  Check out the USA Equestrian website!
All of the current rules are posted there along with membership
applications, news, and even the leading sires for each discipline.

www.equestrian.org

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be.  Do you have any issues you'd
like to see addressed here?  How about ideas for recommended products,
books, or videos?  Want to submit your own article, or a question for the
questions and answers section?  Send them to: stormym@... and I'll keep
a log of topics and articles for upcoming issues.

Don't forget to send me any questions you remember from past ratings for the
prep guides!

********************************************************************
Have you missed any past issues?  Here is a brief look at what topics were
covered:

September:  Being a good Pony Club parent, stock ties, Old Mac's boots, That
special bit

August:  Taking responsibility, Balance saddles, tall boot tips

July:  Cooling off horses, required equipment tips and tricks

June:  Recordbook checklist, bitless bridle, preparing for formals

May:  Making your own shipping and standing wraps, body brushes, formal vs.
informal attire, Feldenkrais method

April:  How to make your horse's tail gorgeous, going stirrupless, notes
from the CHMJ seminar

All back issues can be accessed at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HorseManagementNewsletter
********************************************************************

[Answers for the thermometer quiz: 1) 103.1 degrees Fahrenheit  2) 98.6
degrees Fahrenheit, a normal human temperature  3) 100.4 degrees Fahrenheit,
a normal horse's temperature]

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Feature: Being a good Pony Club parent, an interview with Margot Szabo
2) Recommended products and services: Old Mac's horse boots
3) Rally and rating tips: How to tie that darned stock tie
4) Questions and answers: Stock ties revisited
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: That special bit


*******************************************************************
Being a good Pony Club parent, an interview with Margot Szabo
*******************************************************************
Editor's note: I apologize in advance for any inaccuracies in the following
interview.  Margot's words are not quoted verbatim, but are the best rendering I
could put together while looking at my notes after a phone interview.


Stormy: Hi Margot, to start off, could you tell me a little about how you first
became involved with Pony Club?

Margot:  Well, I was with Pony Club in Canada in the early 50's before there
even was a United States Pony Club.  Then, in 1981 I started Middle Marin Hunt
Pony Club for my elder daughter Kathleen and younger daughter Silvia.  I was DC
of that club from 1981 until I became RS in 1991.  Well, there were other people
who took over the job temporarily, but I don't think anyone even lasted a year,
the job kept being given back to me.

S: What were some of the biggest problems you ran into as an active parent?

M: I was always a DC and a parent.  I was DC long enough to watch things come
full circle, sometimes there were no volunteers, other times there was lots of
help.  There were always personality conflicts which I think come from the
parents wanting what is best for their child.

S: Are the difficulties you see today any different than in the past?  Does
being an RS give you a new perspective on what works and what doesn't work?

M: Being the RS has been an extension of being DC, although it has allowed me to
see far more varied experiences.  Most of the problems are the same today as
they have been in the past, although I have been noticing more of a feeling of
entitlement now.  People think they are entitled to take a rating, entitled to
belong to Pony Club, entitled to go to championships.  We are blessed to be in
an affluent society but the feeling of entitlement will often lead to
disappointment and blame.

S: How involved were you with your daughters' choices?  Did you feel like you
were always urging them along, signing them up for things, or did you just let
them make their own choices?

M: Mostly I just let them do what they wanted though there were some times in
the beginning when I suggested that they ought to do something.  For example, I
might send them to a rally.  After the first couple rallies though I backed off
and Middle Marin Hunt stopped participating because of bad experiences with the
horse management judges.  It was really the old style of judging that Pony Club
is trying to get away from now thankfully.  Both of my daughters left Pony Club
as C-2s.  There wasn't the regional support for the higher ratings like there is
today.  They are now both involved with Pony Club again.

S: What about making sure they had the right trainer, right horses, right
trailer, etc...?

M: They never had a trainer, they just took lessons from different people. 
(Laughing) Oh, you'd better not write about this.  Their horses were absolutely
unsuitable.  When Kathleen was 8 she had a six year old green broke Arab, and
Silvia had a pony she had been sponsoring named Tiger who was 16 and he was
suitable except that he bucked her off every day.  She actually did very well on
him, she has boxes of ribbons that she won.  Both of my daughters stuck with
their horses until they died.  Silvia's next horse was one that she was given
and there were definitely reasons he had been given away.  Our trailer was an
old Miley, I remember at one event, my daughter was so relieved when somebody
finally drove up with a trailer that looked worse than ours.

S: Do you think it was a limiting factor in their Pony Club careers, that they
didn't have more suitable horses?

M: No, Kathleen was just not competitive by nature, and Silvia really just
preferred to ride, she also didn't want to work that hard on the books.  Silvia
tells kids now that she wishes she'd gone on.  She was responsible for telling
Anna Brink that she should go on and take the "A" test a second time so that she
wouldn't regret not doing it later. [ed. note: Anna is now a graduate "A"]

S: What are some qualities you've noticed in parents who seem to support their
children successfully in Pony Club?

M: Calmness, acceptance, quietly supporting.  If a disappointment occurs, they
don't become upset, and then the children don't become upset.  When parents are
overly supportive, or overly feeling, it creates a hardship for their child. 
Not only is the child disappointed, the burden is twice as heavy because they
realize that their parent is disappointed as well.  The child always knows when
the parent is upset.  The child may even be terrified to tell the parent because
of their fear of the reaction.  One thing I've become famous for saying to my
children when disappointment happens is, "Just think, you're building
character."  Once when Silvia was about 15 years old and I said this again she
replied, "Don't you think I've built enough?"

It's important not to harp on failures, or to say something like "it wasn't your
fault."  If you start blaming, that just shows that you're upset and the child
gets the double dose of disappointment.

S: I've noticed how supportive you've been of me in the organization, whether it
was becoming a chief HM judge, or telling you my idea for a bitting video.  I
knew I could talk to you and you would tell me to just go for it.

M: That's what it's all about, just go for it.  It's fun when someone wants to
go for something.  It's the encouragement that's important, not blame.  There
will be another day, go for it.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services: Old Mac's horse boots
*******************************************************************
I prefer to keep my horses barefoot whenever possible, but I have been riding a
4 year old Hanoverian who tends to get tender in his front feet right after a
trim and whenever we ride on rocky ground.  One option would be to try
easyboots.  I have never had good experiences with easyboots, which are always a
struggle to get on, and even more of a struggle to get to stay on.

A friend had been using some Australian horse boots called Old Mac's
multi-purpose horse boots and I decided to give them a try.  They remind me of
Doc Martens for horses and have been exactly what we needed.  Now we are free to
ride the trails, streams (they drain water easily), pavement, and of course the
arena.  Old Mac boots come in 9 sizes and then can be sized exactly for the
horse using heavy duty velcro and buckles.  They require a little extra
maintenance time to keep the leather parts cleaned and conditioned which is time
well spent considering their $145.00 price tag.  One caution is that I would not
use these boots on a horse who tends to overreach or interfere frequently.

Read more about these boots at the Old Mac's website at this link:  
http://www.oldmacs.com.au/Horse_Boots/Default.htm

*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: How to tie that darned stock
tie!*******************************************************************
My best guess as to how many C level and above Pony Clubbers can correctly tie a
stock tie is about 10%.  Not knowing how to tie your own will guarantee last
minute stress at formal time as you ask teammates if they know how to tie your
stock.  If you haven't been lucky enough to find someone who will teach you how
to knot it in person, there is a helpful guide available on the internet which
has pictures showing the process.  Take the time to practice in a mirror and
then without one until it becomes as easy as tying your shoes.

Visit this webpage to find out how:
http://www.horse-rider-etc.com/foxhunt/tiestocktie.html

If you get lost, just remember, it's a square knot that is then straightened out
to look like the picture.

*******************************************************************
Questions and answers
*******************************************************************
Hi Stormy,

Geriann and I were looking at photos of stock ties in Dover's, and State Line
tack catalogs.  We noticed that the pin is NOT through the knot at all, instead
it is far lower on just the tie end material and apparently through the shirt
too.

Is this acceptable at PC?  In local dressage shows, it again is not through the
knot, just through the bottom material.  Is this a fashion trend change?

It does not seemingly affect the function PC states it is for, the tie, pin are
still both there, and both neat and tidy to be used to sling an arm or wrap a
cut leg.   Much  safer not to try and stab a stubborn pin through all that
material at the jugular level too.  '-)

Thanks in advance for your opinion.

  Deb Henderson, AHMJ Mid Cal

Hi Deb,

It does specifically state in the Horse Management Handbook that the pin is to
be fastened through the knot in the stock tie, but for further clarification I
went to the stock tie authority, USPC president Larry Byers, for the answer to
your question.  His response is as follows:

"The primary reason for putting the pin through the knot is to keep the stock
tie in place as the knot tends to loosen after riding for some time.  If the pin
is placed lower, as the knot loosens, a gap appears at the neck and the stock
tie (especially if pinned to the shirt) bunches up.

I suppose if you are modeling for a catalog or only riding a 7 minute dressage
test there not much pressure on the knot or the stock tie so there probably
isn't even a need for a stock tie.  The stock tie as developed in the hunting
field has a specific purpose  The function of the stock tie is to keep wind,
cold and rain from running down our necks when we are out hunting.   If an
emergency comes up it can be used for other purposes when far from the trailer
or stable.  Since dressage adopted the stock tie I suppose it can be considered
'fashion' for that discipline--there is no 'trend' in the hunting field to be
'fashionable.'

[This is] the purpose and why we pin it through the knot---if the rider prefers
the 'fashion' and 'trend setting' of low pins, he will be woefully cold and wet
if he is ever fortunate enough to hunt."

Larry E. Byers, president USPC

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************
That Special Bit.
by Michael Johnson
"Hello?"
"Eh deah Bohnc 'Annin'?
"What? I can hardly hear you."
"Way a minin.Ah nee' to put a phon' dowan." (Click)
"Okay, there. I was holding the phone in my mouth and it's hard for us horses to
talk like that. I'm on the speakerphone now. I said, "Is this Bronc Fanning?"
"Yes, and who is this?"
"This is Michael Johnson's colt. I'm the one they call 'Little Blue,' I'm that
blue roan you saw last time you were here. I'm on the barn phone and I would
rather you didn't tell anyone I called. Do you remember me?"
Bronc thought for a moment, then he said, "Of course I remember you.
You're Sugar Bars and Otoe bred. You were a fine looking horse when I last saw
you, you must be a little over two years old now. How are you Blue?"
"Well, to tell you the truth, I'm not doing so good. That's why I'm calling."
"What can I do to help?" asked Bronc.
"I know you and Michael are friends so this is hard for me. Hey, don't get me
wrong, I love the guy, but." (long pause)
"Tell me what's wrong, Blue."
The colt let out a long sigh, and said, "There are just so many things."
"Just pick one," said Bronc.
Then the little horse let out a torrent of words.
"He raised me from a baby, he stayed with me in the stall when they took my
momma away, and we became close. I didn't give him any trouble when he saddled
me, and I even enjoyed him riding me in the pasture and the woods behind our
farm.at first."
"And then?" prodded Bronc.



"Then we moved into the round pen, and my friend, Miguel changes into 'Mr. Horse
Trainer' overnight. One day we're buddies, next thing I know he's got this big
stick, hittin' me on the butt with it and givin' me all these commands, and I'm
thinking, "Hey, whoa here Amigo, who you hittin' on the butt? Things went
downhill from there. He always rode me with a halter, and I was doin' fine, he
even bragged on me to other people, then he sticks an iron bar in my mouth,
scared the bejeebers out of me, and if that wasn't enough, then he starts
yanking and pulling on my mouth. I thought this guy was my friend, and all of a
sudden, he's Laurence Oliver drilling on Dustin's Hoffman's teeth in that movie,
did you see that? Man, that was rough.

Anyway, now he comes out to the barn every day, and he's always in a hurry,
makes me nervous when he's like that. He gets me in the pen, and starts yelllin'
at me to do stuff. Doesn't give me ten seconds to figure out what he wants. I've
tried to tell him I don't like all this. I've backed my ears, swished my tail,
shown him my teeth and thrown my head, and.nothing. He just yells
"Heeyowhh.yahh, hewyonhh! What am I? Some redneck's kid?
He doesn't hear me. He's not listening."
"Well, I'm sure he's trying to help you become a better horse."
"Yeah, right, take up for him. All you 'two-legs' stick together. How is yanking
on my mouth and yellin' 'heeyonnhh' at me gonna' make me a better horse? Answer
me that."
Bronc said nothing.
"So the reason I'm calling is that I heard you were once like him, but you
learned more about how to communicate with horses, is that true?"
"It is true that I've changed over the years, but I still have a long way to go.
Communicating with you fellows is not something you ever master, but rather
something we continue to learn for the rest of our days."
"Kind of like with all two-legs?" asked Little Blue sharply.
Bronc thought for a moment and replied, "Yes, exactly like that."
"Okay, now we're getting somewhere. So here's my question. Do you think you
might come and get Michael and take him home with you for thirty days?
You could work with him and maybe straighten him out a little? I'm thinkin'
cowboys ain't like they used to be. My momma told me in the old days they took a
long time to show us things. They were patient, they thought about how they
asked us to do something, and we we're both better for it. Now it's wham bam,
thank you ma'am, and in thirty minutes, I'm supposed to be Trigger Jr. I'm
tellin' you partner, I've had it. If I have to, I'll."
"You'll what?" asked a concerned Bronc.
"I'll buck his John Wayne lookin' butt off, Bronc. So help me, I'll dump him
right in the middle of that round pen."
"I hope it doesn't come to that," said Bronc quietly.
"Then you better do something hombre, or your buddy's gonna' get his Wranglers
dusty. See, it's not our responsibility to understand you. It's your
responsibility to understand us. That's why all you two-legs get the big bucks
and we're left to do the grunt work."

After the call, Bronc sat pondering the conversation. The little horse was
right. So many well-meaning people tried to start horses and experienced
difficulty. On most every occasion, when things didn't go well, they blamed the
horse. Bronc had committed the same sin. He also knew telling those well-meaning
owners about the error of their ways was something that very few people wanted
to hear. But.he knew how much Michael loved the colt, and that might be just
enough. His hand reached for the phone.

"Hello?"
"Michael? It's Bronc, how you doin'?"
"Hey, partner, great to hear from you. What's going on with you?"
"I was on my way north, thought I might stop by and spend the night. You have
room for a weary traveler?"
"Course we do, and it's odd that you called. I was about to call and ask if you
could stop by. I've come to a standstill with that colt. He's really acting
ornery and I don't know what to do to help him. I've heard there is a special
'bit' you can use to get them to handle better, things like reining, turning,
stopping and backing up. Is that true?"
Bronc was silent for a moment, then said, "Well, yes, that is true. I know
exactly the 'bit' you need."

When Bronc arrived, Michael expected they would visit the round pen immediately,
but to his surprise, Bronc suggested they sit on the porch and talk. And talk
they did, late into the night. The conversation covered many topics including
how we reach horses.and also how we reach people, whether they be fourth-graders
or forty-year olds. About reaching out, how powerful the thing called
encouragement can be, about the thing called trust, respect and dignity.and
about patience.

The next day, Bronc, Michael and Little Blue entered the round pen. Bronc
allowed the horse to wander off on his own and continued to talk to Michael.
Hours slipped by, even though they seemed like minutes, and finally, he asked
Michael to mount the colt.

Under Bronc's watchful eye, Michael learned about communicating a thought to a
horse with his hands, and using his feet to elicit a physical response, and
countless other subtle cues. Some thirty minutes passed, and then.Bronc walked
to the horse's head, and gently removed the bridle.
"Now," he said quietly, "do all those same things."

Michael squeezed his legs and Little Blue took a few halting steps forward. When
Michael pushed his buttocks down in the saddle, the little colt stopped
instantly. Slowly he waggled his feet in front of the mid-line, and Blue, after
being allowed to think for a few moments, took three steps back. And then,
everybody just stood there staring.

"A week ago, I could hardly get him to move," said a bewildered Michael,
"now he does what I ask with nothing on his head. How is that possible?"

"It's that 'bit' you asked about," said Bronc. "It's not one made of copper or
steel, but rather a 'bit' more knowledge, a 'bit' more understanding, and a
'bit' more love. Both horses and people respond to those bits."

Michael slowly walked away, his head spinning with a hundred thoughts, and made
his way to the porch, and sat there with a puzzled look on his face. Bronc and
Little Blue watched from the round pen.

"Still want me to take him home with me?" asked Bronc.
"No," answered Little Blue. "If he's going to treat me like that, I have to be a
better horse for him. I want him to stay here so we can learn together."


"To understand the horse, you will find that you are going to have to work on
yourself. Once you start giving, you won't believe how much you get back."
--Ray Hunt









Look for Michael's latest release, Cowboys and Angels, named "Best Non-Fiction
Book of 2002" by the Oklahoma Writer's Federation at fine bookstores or by
direct purchase at 580-286-7784.

Review all Michael's books, tapes and CDs at www.michaeljohnsonbooks.com.

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be.  Do you have any issues you'd like
to see addressed here?  How about ideas for recommended products, books, or
videos?  Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions and
answers section?  Send them to: stormym@... and I'll keep a log of topics
and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

HORSE MANAGEMENT NEWSLETTER AND MORE!!!
*******************************************************************
Topics in this issue:
1) Comments from readers
2) Feature: Taking responsibility
3) Recommended products and services: Balance saddles
4) Rally and rating tips: Going retro with your tall boots
5) Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs: Judging Hunters and Hunter Seat
Equitation
6) Fun and educational websites

******************************************************************
Comments from readers
******************************************************************

Hi Stormy!

I've got to tell you that I think your newsletter is terrific!  I'm sure it must
be a lot of work, but I'm so glad that you are doing it.  We've needed something
like this for eons!

:) Mouse
Horse Management Organizer, Mid-Cal region and huge Sponge Bob fan

*******************************************************************
Taking responsibility
*******************************************************************
by Stormy May

I met a man one day who told me the oddest thing.  He said, "It's not the horse,
it's you."

Here I was, complaining that my Very Expensive Fancy Dressage Horse wouldn't go
forward, and if she did, she'd buck me off.  I was very convincing.  "So much
talent," I'd whine, "and she doesn't want to be ridden."

Being the open-minded trainer that I am, I tried to understand his words.  What
did he mean, it's me?  I'm the smallest, softest, nicest trainer I know.  I
hardly even ride with bits anymore, let alone crops or spurs.  How could it be
my fault that this big Dumbblood has a screw loose?  If he knows so much, that
guy should get his butt on this horse and try to ride her.

A little nagging cloud hung over my shoulders though.  Hadn't the bold
ex-racehorse rider been able to ride her on trails, roads, and even down into
the belly-deep creek?  But that was because she was almost six feet tall and had
the legs of an Amazon.  Hadn't the graduate "A" Pony Club instructor gotten on
and jumped her an effortless 3 feet on her second ever jumping excursion?  Well,
it must have been one of her good days, or maybe he just had beginner's luck. 
Hey, wasn't he a tall person too?

I began to think of my students.  Of course it's Julie's fault if her horse runs
out at an oxer.  I could see her crouching and pulling back tensely on the
approach.  Bucky does the obvious thing every time and takes Julie on the safe
route, around the jump she's afraid of.  Of course it's Kris's fault that Blue
keeps throwing his shoulder out on a left hand circle, Kris hasn't learned yet
how to coordinate her hand and leg aids independently of her seat.

I found plenty of people to support me.  They assured me that chestnut mares
were the worst sort to deal with.  "She's dangerous," they'd say, "better to get
a cowboy to knock some sense into her."  I'd be better off with the willing
horses.  Haven't I proven that I'm a good enough rider, passing Pony Club
ratings, winning at shows, supporting myself as a trainer, and starting every
sort of horse and pony over the past 17 years?  How many people can start a 2
year old Anglo-Trakehner 3 years before they can legally drive?

Years went by and I tried to put the thought out of my mind.  She'd be better
off as a broodmare anyway, and it sure looked like her hind end was causing her
problems.  She must be in pain.  That's it, that's why I shouldn't be riding
her.  No, no, no, I couldn't possibly take a lesson on her, the person would
just tell me to do either something I had already tried, or something I had no
intention of doing to my horse.  Did I mention she has great conformation and
bloodlines?  It'd be a shame not to breed her.

Maybe I'm addicted to struggle.  Didn't the sane riders just sell the horses
they didn't get along with and buy new ones that went along with the program? 
It sure looked that way when I took inventory of my friends who had been
successful versus the ones who were still stuck with the same problems they had
been dealing with 10 years ago.

Then one day I stopped.

It's not the horse, it's me.

Blaming it on the horse was all right, and I could even make it real and true,
but I began to notice that it kept me going in circles.  The only progress I
made was in devising more clever reasons why I couldn't ride my horse.  One day
I noticed another path.  The words returned, "It's not the horse, it's me."

Please excuse me, I'm going out to ride my horse.

*******************************************************************
Recommended products and services
*******************************************************************
A few years ago I attended a saddle fitting seminar that was quite different
from what I was used to hearing.  It was like a lightbulb flashed on and
suddenly it made all the sense in the world to fit saddles in this new way.  I
must admit that I haven't yet had the opportunity to ride a horse I know in a
traditionally fitted saddle, and then see how the horse goes in a Balance
saddle, but this really may be a revolution in the way we think of saddling in
the future.

Here is a brief synopsis of the theory from the Balance International website:

"[The BALANCE saddle system supplies] the horse with a saddle tree width that is
a little wider* than his current static back profile. This is important because
when the horse is working in an engaged and healthy way under the weight of his
rider, his back will become wider and flatter in the saddle area. In other
words, if the tree or saddle fits the horse's back when he is standing still in
a dis-engaged state, it will not allow him sufficient room or comfort to lift
his back into the correct (bio-mechanical) organization in movement.

In order to use a saddle that is wider than the horse, it is essential to use
some form of pad system that creates stability, balance and flexibility when
they are used together.... The pad system that BALANCE currently uses is the
most consistently reliable and effective combination of design and materials so
far. However, BALANCE encourages its clients to stay open to looking at other
options once they are familiar and confident with the standard pad System."

*[Editor's note: In their use of the term "wider," the developers of the Balance
saddles are referring to a fit in which the saddle's panels may appear wider
than the horse's back at rest.  However, even with a wider fit, these saddles
are designed to not rest on the horse's withers and spine which traditionally
saddles that are too wide will do, causing the horse pain and discomfort.]

Find out more about the BALANCE saddle system at:
http://www.balanceinternational.com


*******************************************************************
Rally and rating tips: Going retro with your tall boots
*******************************************************************
It seems that the trendy way to keep your boots shiny on the way to formal
inspection is to put disposable shower caps upside down on your boots as you
walk through the dust.  True, it might save some last minute polishing, but as I
see someone approach with loose plastic crinkling around their boots I must
admit I have visions of horses spooking, or one shower cap stepping on the
opposite shower cap and capsizing the unfortunate rider.

An alternate method is to go retro and get those trendy leg warmers that the
jazzercise fanatics were wearing in the 80's (Let's get physical!)  Pull them up
over the top part of your tall boots.  As you're waiting for your inspection,
just pull the leg warmers off over the toe and heel of your boot and the boot
automatically gets a last minute shine.

Leg warmers are also a great way to store your boots.  When they're not in use,
just pull the leg warmers down so they cover the whole boot, from the top to the
toe.  This saves them from nicks and scratches.  Remember of course to have some
toe and ankle support for those boots on the inside!

*******************************************************************
Recommended books, videos, and CD-ROMs!
*******************************************************************
Judging Hunters and Hunter Seat Equitation: A Comprehensive Guide for Exhibitors
and Judges
by Anna Jane White-Mullin

This book I have found invaluable for demystifying what the hunter judges are
looking for in a winning round.  Following are two reviews from the amazon.com
website.

Must have!, July 9, 2003
Reviewer: Tiffany from Westerville, Ohio, United States
I did not need to read any farther than the first chapter and realized this was
a great book! As a judge, I am always looking for updated information on horses.
This book has great pictures that explain many problems of hunters today. It is
a must have for all judges and trainers and for all disciplines of riders! Thank
you Anna-Jane!

A "must have" book!, September 18, 2001

      Reviewer: CA from USA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This book explains the many aspects of hunters and equitation over fences and on
the flat. It explains in great detail what the judges want to see and how to get
it! I would recommend this book!

Here is a link to order it directly from amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0943955807/qid=1060904709/sr=1-1/r\
ef=sr_1_1/102-8479727-8694564?v=glance&s=books



*******************************************************************
Fun and educational websites
*******************************************************************
I had hoped to get my new website up and running to share with everybody, but I
think it may be quite some time before that happens.  In the meantime, if
anybody wants to see what I do in my other life, you can visit my old website
at:

http://stormymay.tripod.com

Don't forget to sign the guestbook!

********************************************************************
Are you into holistic wellness for your animals?  Would you like to learn more
about it?  Below is a great site for exploring this growing field.

http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/horse.htm

********************************************************************
Speaking of growing fields.  Have you had trouble with yellow star thistle
growing in yours?  Transline is probably not the most holistic method of
control, but it works like a charm.  We've used Transline at Sunlight Farm since
1998 and have had truly amazing results.  We went from enough star thistle that
you couldn't walk through the pasture, to zero star thistle within a year.  The
only trick is to get it sprayed before the new seeds start coming up, that means
planning ahead and spraying in February or March.  It works well to go in on a
gallon with your neighbors and split the cost.  Read more about it here:

http://www.bayequest.com/horsetalk/transline.htm

********************************************************************
Call for submissions
********************************************************************
Help make this newsletter the best it can be.  Do you have any issues you'd like
to see addressed here?  How about ideas for recommended products, books, or
videos?  Want to submit your own article, or a question for the questions and
answers section?  Send them to: stormym@... and I'll keep a log of topics
and articles for upcoming issues.

********************************************************************







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]