here is a vid on a hive thet i found 2 queens in and adding pollen patties

http://youtu.be/U_jpxADlERc

  Dwayne

checked some hives today and found 4 to 5 frames of brood,thanks a good sign.
also found some drones. that was surprising.

I only signed on here several months ago.  I am impressed with the
dialogue of questions, responses, photos and files posted here during the last
2+ years since the inception of this forum.  20+ years ago, MYBA members relied
upon apiculture text books, trade publications, one-on-one visits, telephone
calls, the occasional visit of a bee inspector or the bi-monthly meetings to
have questions answered, or, share their practices and experiences.  Count your
blessings for today's technology as the newbies and oldies share in the
beekeeping venture. 8-) - Carl C.

I'm with you Carl. As much as I drag my feet with the new technologies, it sure
does help all of us to be able to learn more and faster.

Steve

--- In midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com, "c.egolf" <c.egolf@...> wrote:
>
> I only signed on here several months ago.  I am impressed with the
> dialogue of questions, responses, photos and files posted here during the last
2+ years since the inception of this forum.  20+ years ago, MYBA members relied
upon apiculture text books, trade publications, one-on-one visits, telephone
calls, the occasional visit of a bee inspector or the bi-monthly meetings to
have questions answered, or, share their practices and experiences.  Count your
blessings for today's technology as the newbies and oldies share in the
beekeeping venture. 8-) - Carl C.
>

Hi Jimmy,

Sounds wonderful! Got to love this weather. For as miserable as last year was,
it sounds like it's been a great winter for the bees.

Steve

--- In midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Morawiec" <jmora325@...> wrote:
>
> checked some hives today and found 4 to 5 frames of brood,thanks a good sign.
also found some drones. that was surprising.
>

nice checked mine and the look great some crone brood in one hive even the hive
that moved in the first week of oct and i only feed 2 quarts had more then 2
deep frames of honey

  Dwayne.S

Can the club please post a list and diagrams of wrapping a hive for
winterization,ty!

Can someone explain what I am going to have to do to swap out the top and bottom
boxes during my spring inspection. Do I put "all" of the brood in the bottom box
and leave the second box open for new brood and honey? Should I add the queen
excluder on until the center frames of the second box are full, and then remove?
Should I leave my "honey super off until they fill the second box?  My hives
have a top access hole so when the flow is on the workers can get in from the
top easily. Thanks
Also, Steve, thanks for the foundation demonstration last night.

Craig

Hello Craig,

Thanks, that was fun and as usual learned a few new things myself.

Our spring hive management tries to encourage rapid expansion of the brood by
providing an unobstructed laying space for the queen. Box reversal is one of the
many ways to achieve this goal.

>Do I put "all" of the brood in the bottom box and leave the second box open for
new brood and honey?

Yes, but if the brood is split between both boxes, you'll do more harm than good
by reversing.

>Should I add the queen excluder on until the center frames of the second box
are full, and then remove?

There are many opinions. G.M. Doolittle in his book "A Year's in an Out-Apiary",
talks about using a queen excluder between the boxes after removing the outside
frames of honey from the bottom box, replacing them with drawn comb frames, and
putting those honey frames in the upper box of drawn comb in positions 3 and 8.
As far as when and if to remove the excluder, some do, some don't, some don't
even use them.

>Should I leave my "honey super off until they fill the second box?

Again, talking about G. M. Doolittle, he makes sure each colony 3-4 frames of
honey in the spring. Any excess, you might want to set aside and keep to use for
your splits later on or to help feed a swarm.

Hope this helps and others will chime in on their experiences.

Steve

--- In midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com, "cfran7000" <cfran7000@...> wrote:
>
> Can someone explain what I am going to have to do to swap out the top and
bottom boxes during my spring inspection. Do I put "all" of the brood in the
bottom box and leave the second box open for new brood and honey? Should I add
the queen excluder on until the center frames of the second box are full, and
then remove? Should I leave my "honey super off until they fill the second box? 
My hives have a top access hole so when the flow is on the workers can get in
from the top easily. Thanks
> Also, Steve, thanks for the foundation demonstration last night.
>
> Craig
>

We're are working on posting both presentations. Having a little difficulty with
the Plant presentation and it's file size. I've got the computer gurus working
on a solution (obviously not me!)

Steve

--- In midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com, "wbm34" <wbm34@...> wrote:
>
> Can the club please post a list and diagrams of wrapping a hive for
winterization,ty!
>

Hello All,

Posted some pictures in the Photo section, compliments of Tammy Danielwicz, from
Joe's field demonstration of wrapping hive at the Morrisville Conference

Steve

does anyone in the club have some wax they're willing to sell?

i'd like to give my new plastic foundation a fresh coat.

thanks
-scott

maybe they need some pollen?

   Dwayne.S

You generally use 1-1/4" staples or nails for the frames and be sure to glue them.

Kimberly Carpenter

Hungry Bear Farms
(Inside The PC & Wireless Shop)
699 South Main Street
Canandaigua, NY 14424
www.hungrybearfarms.com

Ray, at least 1/2" for stapling the wedge bar. 3/8" and 5/16" are too short. As
John says, one in the middle and one at each end seems to hold that foundation
in tight until the bees draw it out.

Steve

--- In midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com, "John Hawthorne" <john_hawthorne@...>
wrote:
>
> I tried 3/8� staples and they did not hold well, went to �� and that
seems
> okay.  I think one staple in the center of the wedge and one on each end
> should be enough.
>
> From: midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Lowe
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2012 9:09 AM
> To: midyorkbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [midyorkbeekeepers] staples
>
>
> What size staples and how many (a standard T50 staple) to install
> foundation? Is 3/8 long enough?  I have a bunch of them on hand but headed
> to Lowes anyway so I can get longer ones if needed.
> Ray
>